tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26444953804553762742024-02-07T02:44:19.631-07:00Chinook Hobby TalkHobby Tips, Techniques and NewsChinook Hobby Talkhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16503374280939165613noreply@blogger.comBlogger101125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2644495380455376274.post-32331827978295840322017-10-23T14:34:00.000-06:002017-10-23T14:34:54.681-06:00Create a Great Paint Job From Spray Cans<br />
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Have you every tried to use spray cans to paint your model only to have dripping runs or that 'orange peel' look? We've pooled together our collective knowledge to share some of our favourite tips and ideas.<br />
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<span style="color: #222222; font-size: 16px;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">There are many modelers think spray cans are amateurish and not very precise, and that the only way to build a show quality model is to use an airbrush. That's so untrue! There are a lot of good reasons to use aerosol spray paint.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="color: #222222;">Currently, there are so many excellent aerosol paints available for model builders, they all have their great qualities. Testors is the front runner with an excellent selection of both stock and custom colors in enamels, and Tamiya's lacquers have fantastic pigments. Some others (not all available at your local hobby shop) add to the huge array of commercially available paints such as Krylon, Dupli-Color, Plasti-kote, and there are more. It may sound odd, but I rarely use an airbrush!</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="color: #222222;">Each of these lines </span></span><span style="color: #222222; font-size: 16px;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">are available in gloss, semigloss, and flat varieties, and can be used to vary the surfaces of flat, semigloss, and metallic paints, adding even more variety to the mix. </span></span><span style="color: #222222; font-size: 16px;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">You can use these differences to your advantage to add more visual interest to your model.</span></span><span style="color: #222222; font-family: "roboto" , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"> </span><br />
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<span style="color: #222222; font-size: 16px;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">The first thing anyone is going to notice about your model is the paint job, so read on to learn how to paint, prepare and finish that model on your hobby table.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="color: #222222;">1. Select the colours for your model kit. Also, check out your local hobby shop or bookstore for awesome reference and idea books. (Remember that for military kits flat colour are best, but if you need to use semi-gloss or gloss for the colour you like to can use a flat finish at the end to make it all uniform flat)</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="color: #222222;">2. On any kit your going to need to</span></span><span style="color: #222222; font-family: "roboto" , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span style="color: #222222; font-size: 16px;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">remove the molding seams and flashing left by the molding process. These can be hard to spot on some kits, a credit to the manufacturer's attention to detail. Be certain to look closely to find the seams. Sand the large body pieces a bit with 400-grit sandpaper and they'll be easier to spot. Make sure you remove all of the molding seams, or they'll show up through your carefully applied finish!</span></span><br />
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<span style="color: #222222; font-size: 16px;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">3. After sanding see if there are any spots that may need to be filled. There are many types of hobby putty to help you with this. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="color: #222222;">4. Next priming - yes, this is a pain but is so worth it. This will show any imperfections you may have missed so you can sand them out. One coat is usually all you need. Make sure to hold the spray can approximately 4 to 6 inches away from your project (using light feathering motions) to get an even coat.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="color: #222222;">5. Painting Tip- you can spray directly on the piece or create a parts holder. There are many modeling YouTube videos that can help you with this. I usually wear a latex glove and hold the larger pieces from the inside. For small pieces I spray them directly on the sprue frames and then touch them up by hand after I cut them off. </span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTalGaWLRa0CFxzCHvAK-U6zZIyOTxrzc0fuI816-xmToBIxd0pfq8oE2JZBRZjg_adQPCcMCa_OTOHs8L4s5lO6LKLGEjofccRW1oKIL75_tr_yBdUo7kV24QR9lUTP4kzmSLrYOlru0/s1600/Model+Kit+Sprue+Chinook+Hobby+West.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1113" data-original-width="1080" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTalGaWLRa0CFxzCHvAK-U6zZIyOTxrzc0fuI816-xmToBIxd0pfq8oE2JZBRZjg_adQPCcMCa_OTOHs8L4s5lO6LKLGEjofccRW1oKIL75_tr_yBdUo7kV24QR9lUTP4kzmSLrYOlru0/s320/Model+Kit+Sprue+Chinook+Hobby+West.jpg" width="310" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="color: #222222;">6. Ready to paint? </span></span><span style="color: #222222; font-size: 16px;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">The first tip I learned as a kid and I still use today is warming up the paint so it will flow better. This is very important with thick enamel paints. Cold paint has a tendency to develop an "orange peel" texture. To warm up the paint, fill a bowl (or the bottom of a sink) with about three inches of hot water. Stand the spray can in the hot water for a few minutes before you start painting. (do not put it on a stove or in the microwave, this will explode the can; just use hot tap water)</span></span><br />
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<span style="color: #222222; font-size: 16px;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">7. </span></span><span style="color: #222222; font-size: 16px;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">After drying off the can, shake the can vigorously for a couple of minutes, apply the first mist coat of paint to the model (you'll know it's mixing as you hear the metal marble inside rattling around. If you don't hear this sound, test the paint to see if it sprays as it may be really thick or a dried out can). Do a light dusting of paint and it shouldn't cover the entire surface. Repeat this at lease 6 times. These mist coats may seem like a nuisance to apply, but they're laying the foundation for optimum coverage once the wet coats are applied. Wait approximately 20 minutes between mist coats to allow the paint to set. This gives a great look for flat finishes.</span></span><br />
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<span style="color: #222222; font-size: 16px;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">8. <i><u>Only for Gloss Coats</u></i> - </span></span><span style="color: #222222; font-size: 16px;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"> The next coats should be heavier, "wet" coats, in which the paint glosses up during application. The trick to applying a wet coat is simple: Apply just enough paint so that the coating is wet and glossy, but not so much that it runs or drips. Mastering the art of the wet coat takes practice, but eventually becomes very natural. Take your time with this and practice on the inside of your model kit box.</span></span><br />
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<span style="color: #222222; font-size: 16px;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">9. EXTRA TIP - If you are wanting a show quality paint job polishing may be for you. If your paint job seems a bit uneven </span></span><span style="color: #222222; font-size: 16px;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">you can polish the finish with a 3,200-grit pad (the workhorse of the bunch), it will level the surface of the paint. Please use the pad dry because it's easier to determine when the texture has been removed. Work slowly when using this coarse grit, as it can easily cut through the paint and into the primer. Note it will give the model a dull finish, a sign that all of the surface texture has been removed. Then you can </span></span><span style="color: #222222; font-size: 16px;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">wet-sand with a 12,000-grit pad, creating a nice luster to the paint's surface. </span></span><br />
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<span style="color: #222222; font-size: 16px;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">10. If you don't wish to go through all the sanding </span></span><span style="color: #222222; font-size: 16px;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">polish can be applied by dabbing a small amount on a piece of flannel cloth and rubbing it into the surface of the paint using circular strokes. Afterward, the excess polish should be buffed off with a clean portion of the flannel cloth. </span></span><br />
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<span style="color: #222222; font-size: 16px;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">11. To finish, I like using a clear coat spray. The finish depends on your project and if you want a flat, semi-gloss, gloss or high gloss look. </span></span><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="color: #222222; font-size: 16px;">If you choose to apply clear gloss over a color finish, be careful when you apply it. You have two choices: you can add the clear coat immediately after applying the last wet color coat, or you can apply the clear coat after the color coat has cured for at least a week or two. Some brands of clear gloss paint cure at a different rates than the color paints in the line. If you wait even a day to apply the clear gloss, the different curing rates may cause the clear finish to crack.</span><span style="color: #222222; font-size: 16px;"> </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="color: #222222; font-size: 16px;">So there you have it. What did you think? Please leave a comment to let us know your tips and ideas so others can get inspired in this fantastic hobby!</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="color: #222222; font-size: 16px;">Thanks for reading and Happy Hobbying!</span></span><br />
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<i><span style="color: #990000;">Please remember these are our opinions on what has worked for us and we are not responsible for anyone's projects that have been damaged or unsuccessful using these ideas.</span></i>Chinook Hobby Talkhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16503374280939165613noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2644495380455376274.post-17966587675201490932017-09-18T11:00:00.000-06:002017-09-18T11:00:13.021-06:00Maintaining Action Figures Clothing<h2 style="color: navy;">
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Most of these tips are for cloth figure clothing. These tips are by our opinion and we are not responsible for damages when trying these tips.</span></h2>
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Steaming</u></span></span></h3>
<span style="background-color: white;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=2644495380455376274" name="STEAM" style="color: navy;"></a><span style="color: navy;">Invest in a travel steamer or an iron with a steam function. Get the type that looks like an upright canister with a side handle and a venting attachment at the top. Using this little miracle tool you can make uniforms look really sharp. It also will steam clean surface dust and help to upgrade the look of a cloth uniform. Regular ironing will scorch the fabric and leave shiny marks. Work carefully and pull the cloth taut as you go. Hold the surface to be done between both hands and run it over the vents to "steam press" the garment. Holding it a little tightly helps. It takes a little practice and you'll probably get a couple of steamed fingers the first time out. Just work carefully and take your time.</span><a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=2644495380455376274" name="STARCH" style="color: navy;"></a></span><br />
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Starching</u></span></h3>
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<span style="background-color: white;">Capes, berets and some other looser clothing needs some help keeping its shape. Try spraying it with diluted (1:1) starch, carefully forming the beret while on the figures head and letting it air dry. The item isn't rock-hard or anything it just stays where you put it now.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;">A way to form cloth berets, without a great deal of effort, to look like the way most soldiers wear them today. You'll need a bottle of Paul Mitchell Fast Drying Sculpting Spray or something similar.</span></div>
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<li><span style="background-color: white;">Put the Beret on your figure and form it how you like.</span></li>
<li><span style="background-color: white;">Spray carefully and saturate the beret. Try to limit the spray just to the beret material.</span></li>
<li><span style="background-color: white;">Use a tooth pick or bamboo skewer to hold the beret in the shape you desire (you could stuff the item or make a form for it) to keep your fingers from sticking to the item as it dries.</span></li>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: navy;">Once dried, it's not sticky and not noticeable. </span><br />
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<u>Dyeing</u></h3>
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<span style="background-color: white;">The following alternatives work well on all cotton cloth:</span></div>
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<li><span style="background-color: white;">A good dye to use is a VAT dye which will turn the fabric black (or whatever color you want) & will <em>never</em> come out. This dye is a bit caustic to use but works quick and lasts forever.</span></li>
<li><span style="background-color: white;">For a dye that is less caustic,use a Procyonb dye (sometimes known as cold-dyes). These dyes require much more soaking but are still permanent.</span></li>
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<span style="background-color: white;">If you're going dye natural leather, use the Fiebing's Oil based dyes. The Tandy dyes are alcohol based and tend to leech the natural oils out of the leather causing it to crack on you after a short time. The Fiebing's, being oil based, doesn't do this, and is actually a little more resilient and produces a finish that's easier to apply evenly.</span><br />
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<u>Sewing</u></h3>
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<span style="background-color: white;">Many problems seen in action figure clothing is the fabric unravelling (usually behind a seam). To prevent this, you "overcast the seam" which means setting the sewing machine on zig zag and sewing the hidden edge of the fabric on the inside. </span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;">Use one little stitch to hold the collars down so they don't curl up.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;">You can use 1.2 mm brass nails for realistically sized buttons. Stick them through the material, cut of the excess (most of the nail) and add a drop or two of fabric tac. </span></div>
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<u>Gluing</u></h3>
<span style="background-color: white;">Having trouble glueing those little fabric insignia's to the fabric uniforms of your 12" figures? Aleene's Original Tacky Glue comes in a gold-colored squeeze bottle with a white top. It dries clear, and more significantly, flexible. So the insignia's won't peel off the figure when you move them around.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;">When glueing fabric to plastic, if you use modeling cement (either tube or liquid type), it <em>will</em> dissolve or soften the plastic you're working with. If you use this, make <em>sure</em> you apply it to the piece of plastic, and <em>not</em> the cloth! </span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;">Superglues (cyanoacrylates) are probably the best thing there is for attaching buckles or straps onto a model permanently. It will set <em>instantly</em> if applied to anything natural like cotton or skin. If you're attaching straps or buckles, be sure to <em>only</em> apply a tiny dot exactly where the cloth attaches or it wil make the entire strap stiff. </span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=2644495380455376274" name="GLUE"></a><a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=2644495380455376274" name="WASH"></a></span></div>
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<u>Washing</u></h3>
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<span style="background-color: white;">Here's how to get those garments white and bright again. You need to buy two things:</span></div>
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<li><span style="background-color: white;">Softscrub With Bleach (the lemon version won't work)</span></li>
<li><span style="background-color: white;">Efferdent denture cleaning tablets</span></li>
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<li style="color: navy;"><span style="background-color: white;">Use a tupperware container large enough to lay the uniform flat.</span></li>
<li style="color: navy;"><span style="background-color: white;">Wet the piece of clothing and put it in the container.</span></li>
<li style="color: navy;"><span style="background-color: white;">Shake the Softscrub then apply it all over the item using a soft paintbrush.</span></li>
<li style="color: navy;"><span style="background-color: white;">Wait about five minutes then add warm water to the container so that it covers the uniform by about and inch.</span></li>
<li style="color: navy;"><span style="background-color: white;">Squirt some more Softscrub down on it and let it soak about 20-30 minutes - no longer.</span></li>
<li style="color: navy;"><span style="background-color: white;">Now take out the garment and rinse well under warm water.</span></li>
<li style="color: navy;"><span style="background-color: white;">Rinse out your container WELL and put about an inch and 1/2 of warm (not hot) water in it.</span></li>
<li style="color: navy;"><span style="background-color: white;">Pop in two or three Efferdent tablets and place your garment flat in the container.</span></li>
<li style="color: navy;"><span style="background-color: white;">Leave it in there overnight - about eight hours.<br />Don't worry if the garment gets looking blue; it will go away in a couple of hours in the bath. It's removing any of the chlorine from the bleach and the baking soda and the Efferdent will really brighten the whites. You want all the chlorine gone because it would eventually yellow the garment. That's why using straight bleach isn't a good idea unless you Efferdent afterwards.</span></li>
<li style="color: navy;"><span style="background-color: white;">Take out and rinse. If it still isn't white or bright enough-try the Efferdent bath again.</span></li>
<li><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: navy;">Then rinse it well. You can use a "salad spinner" to spin all the excess water out.</span></span></li>
<li style="color: navy;"><span style="background-color: white;">Dry flat.</span></li>
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<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: navy;">To remove magic marker, try rubbing alcohol. Pour through the fabric from the back. This works well on some markers and pens.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><b><i><span style="color: blue; font-size: large;"><u>Next week:</u> Hmmm not sure. Check back next Monday.</span></i></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><b><i><span style="color: blue; font-size: large;">Chinook & Hobby West</span></i></b></span></div>
<div style="color: black;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><b><i><span style="color: blue; font-size: large;">"Where the Fun Begins!"</span></i></b></span></div>
<div style="color: black;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><b><i>ph: 403-243-1997</i></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><b><i>email: <a href="mailto:hobbywest@shaw.ca">hobbywest@shaw.ca</a></i></b></span></div>
<div style="color: black;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt;">Facebook: </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><a href="https://www.facebook.com/ChinookAndHobbyWest">https://www.facebook.com/ChinookAndHobbyWest</a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt;">Twitter: <a href="https://twitter.com/hobbyandtoy?lang=en" target="_blank">@HobbyAndToy</a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt;">Pinterest:</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><a href="https://www.pinterest.com/hobbymum">https://www.pinterest.com/hobbymum</a></span></div>
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Chinook Hobby Talkhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16503374280939165613noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2644495380455376274.post-47254292699260807312017-09-11T11:00:00.000-06:002017-09-11T11:00:05.684-06:00Top 10 Model Building Tips for BeginnersHere is our top 10 model tips for beginners. Feel free to add your tips to the comments below!<br />
Always read the instructions of your kit and follow the steps in order.<br />
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<b><u>10.</u></b> Use a hobby knife or sprue cutter to remove pieces from sprues. This give you a clean piece with no extra flashing, don't twist them off as you can ruin the pieces.<br />
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<b>9.</b> Using a fine detail brush try to paint as many pieces when they're still on the sprue frame. This gives you more control and you don't need to worry about how you'll hold the tiny pieces while painting them.</div>
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<b>8</b>. when using glue, less is usually more. Put a small dab on glue on a bottle cap and use a tooth pick to control where the glue goes. Always 'dry fit' the part first so you know how it will fit before gluing.</div>
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<b>7.</b> Applying water slide decals can be tricky. <span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Soak the decal for about 15 seconds it may curl, but wait and let it uncurl. To place the decal, hold it to where it goes and slide it off the paper and onto the model. If the decal needs repositioning, then wet your fingers with water and move the decal into position carefully. There may be some residue from the glue, use a wet q-tip to clean it off being careful not to wipe the decal away. Allow the decal to fully dry before handling.</span></span></div>
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<b>6.</b> Many sprues and model parts have the mould release agent still on them. Make sure to immerse them in a shallow pan of mild dish detergent and warm water to rinse the chemical off and then dry completely. Using extra fine grit sandpaper on the larger pieces works well too. Use a light touch so you don't sand off fine details.</div>
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<b>5.</b> Always have your hobby area set up with whatever you need for that kit. your model, glue, rag, thinner, sprue cutter, paint, brushes, dish of water, etc. If you don't have a designated spot and need to move your items around, use a cleaning caddy or toolbox to keep your supplies together and easy to transport.</div>
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<b>4.</b> Never mix acrylic paint and enamel paint. If you need to use both on your model kit paint one first and let it dry for a minimum of 6 hours, then paint with the other. If you don't let the different paint types dry you may get a blister look.</div>
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<b>3.</b> When spray painting always use light coats. If you spray on too thick it may run or create an orange peel look to your paint job.</div>
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<b>2</b>. Did you glue your fingers together? Never pull them apart! Roll them apart or use nail polish remover or debonder to break down the glue bond. If you got glue on any sensitive areas such as around your eyes or mouth, please go see a doctor and get them to assist you safely.</div>
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<b>1.</b> HAVE FUN! If you get frustrated put the lids on your paint, thinner and glue, wash your brushes and go do something else for a while. I've seen many model kits thrown at walls and out windows! </div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><b><i><span style="color: blue; font-size: large;">Next week: Maintaining Action Figures Clothing</span></i></b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><b><i><span style="color: blue; font-size: large;">Chinook & Hobby West</span></i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><b><i><span style="color: blue; font-size: large;">"Where the Fun Begins!"</span></i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><b><i>ph: 403-243-1997</i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><b><i>email: <a href="mailto:hobbywest@shaw.ca">hobbywest@shaw.ca</a></i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt;">Facebook: </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><a href="https://www.facebook.com/ChinookAndHobbyWest">https://www.facebook.com/ChinookAndHobbyWest</a></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt;">Twitter: <a href="https://twitter.com/hobbyandtoy?lang=en" target="_blank">@HobbyAndToy</a></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt;">Pinterest:</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><a href="https://www.pinterest.com/hobbymum">https://www.pinterest.com/hobbymum</a></span><br />
<br />Chinook Hobby Talkhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16503374280939165613noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2644495380455376274.post-49825409088494451132017-09-07T11:00:00.000-06:002017-09-07T11:00:02.248-06:00Welcome To Model Railroading - Part 2<div class="MsoNormal">
Welcome Back to Part two of our beginner series in Model Railroading. This post is all about the basics of building kits, the different track types, DCC, types of trains, what the numbers on a steam locomotive mean and painting terms.</div>
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<span style="color: blue;">If you have any questions or comments please <a href="mailto:valhobbywest@shaw.ca" target="_blank"><i>email us</i></a> or leave them below.</span></div>
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<b><u>Plastic Model Building Kits:</u></b> <o:p></o:p></div>
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Three Types:<o:p></o:p></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]-->1.<span style="font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span><!--[endif]-->Pre-Built
Plastics [model buildings].<o:p></o:p></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]-->2.<span style="font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span><!--[endif]-->Build
your self plastics<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .75in; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; tab-stops: list .75in; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><b>3.<span style="font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></b><!--[endif]-->Build
your self-Wood.<b><o:p></o:p></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><br /></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><u>Scenery Materials:</u> </b>Various: Main one is Woodland Scenics, Trost’s own, Bachmann, Heki. These are just a few of the brand names. Almost all scenery lines are geared to function with most or all scales.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><u>People, Vehicles,
Railroad parts</u> i.e. crossing signs, lights, etc.</b><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in;">
Woodland scenics, Model Power,
Miniatures By Eric, Excel, Hobits, Micro Engineering, Trost’s Own, Herpa,
Athearn, Wiking, McHenry, Kadee to name a few. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><u>Track:</u></b> <i>HO and
N scales</i>: Peco; Atlas; EZ Bachmann – <i>O scale</i>; Atlas O, RealTraxx<b><u><o:p></o:p></u></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
There is quite a lot for variety in most scales.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<b><u>Different Types of Model Railroad Track</u></b><o:p></o:p><br />
<div style="text-indent: .5in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-indent: .5in;">
A question that always comes up first is – What
type of model train track should I use? There are several different brands and
sizes available. Mostly what you use is personal preference. One thing to
remember is that the size of the rails is reported as the <i>code</i>. For
example code 83-model railroad track has larger rails than code 55 tracks. <strong><span style="font-weight: normal; mso-bidi-font-style: italic;"><o:p></o:p></span></strong></div>
<div style="text-indent: .5in;">
<strong><span style="font-weight: normal; mso-bidi-font-style: italic;">The difference between Atlas HO Code 83 and Code 100 track: </span></strong>Literally,
the code of a piece of track is the height of the rail in thousandths of an
inch (meaning code 83 rail is .083" high; code 100 rail is .100"
high). The significant difference lies in the physical appearance of the two
types of track. Atlas Code 83 track has fine, brown ties whereas Code 100 has
slightly thicker black ties. Because of its accuracy (and the color of the
ties), Code 83 is more prototypical, and therefore more realistic than Code
100. Code 83 is known as a finer-scale track, and is the choice of discerning
modelers. Atlas carries a full line of both Code 100 and Code 83 products.
(There are fewer problems with code 100 & its more economical for the new
Model Railroader)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
The smaller rails are often used
for branch lines and the larger codes are for mainlines. This is often the way
they appear in the prototype (real life), so you can simulate that on your
layout if you wish. A caveat to this is that you have to make sure that when
you make the transition between different codes on the same layout, you have to
line up the rails properly so there won’t be any derailments. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Model railroad track is sold as <b>sectional track</b>,
i.e., small sections of either straight track or curved track that come in 2-3
different standard radii, or as <b>flextrack</b>, a very flexible 3 ft piece of
track that can be curved to whatever radius you want. Sectional track, but not
flextrack, can also be purchased with or without roadbed attached.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4TDetVavgwTO82ShsYP8gXnXR9i1AhuXa2Ay9ZXMOBUs3DIPy32lEGkxKaTeHqj6D_Ln0pbx9IY2VMfHEOF0syx9NFZgCeTc7AhBCjQaOnp72-C7TkMWNHZwjYm_OcUblMdkk32m_SZ4/s1600/N%252C+HO%252C+O+track+Chinook+Hobby+West+2013-a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4TDetVavgwTO82ShsYP8gXnXR9i1AhuXa2Ay9ZXMOBUs3DIPy32lEGkxKaTeHqj6D_Ln0pbx9IY2VMfHEOF0syx9NFZgCeTc7AhBCjQaOnp72-C7TkMWNHZwjYm_OcUblMdkk32m_SZ4/s320/N%252C+HO%252C+O+track+Chinook+Hobby+West+2013-a.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><u>Digital command
control</u></b><i> (DCC)</i> is a newer form
of model railroad wiring and train control in which each locomotive can be
separately controlled from one power unit or from one walk around throttle. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Each locomotive has to be fitted with a special decoder
device <i>programmed</i> to accept signals from the power (or control) unit
when that particular decoder is “dialed in” from the control unit. For more info on this, come in and see us.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><u>Accessories</u></b><i> </i><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The lighting for structures, signals, street lamps, etc. is
usually accomplished with AC current which may or may not require a separate
transformer from the one you use to control trains, depending on your specific
power unit. Most transformers have an AC and DC portal (screws) on the back or side. There are too many brands to name although a few are Woodland Scenics, Minitronics, Techtronics, Rail King, etc.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><u>Types of model
trains</u></b><b><o:p></o:p></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Steam:</b><span style="font-size: 10pt;"> </span><span lang="EN">A <i>steam locomotive</i> is a locomotive
powered by a steam system of tubes. The term usually refers to its use on railways, but
can also refer to a "road locomotive" such as a traction engine or
steamroller. Model steam engines are all electric although any scales HO and larger have the option of adding smoke fluid or pellet for the real effect.</span></div>
<b>Diesel:</b><span style="font-size: 10pt;"> A </span><span lang="EN"><i>Diesel train</i></span><span lang="EN"> is a type of railroad locomotive, which is
powered by a Diesel engine. Several types have been developed, the distinction being how the Diesel mechanical power is conveyed
to the driving wheels (drivers).<b><o:p></o:p></b></span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span lang="EN">Electric:</span></b><span lang="EN"> An <i>electric locomotive</i> is a locomotive
powered by electricity from an external source. Sources include overhead lines
or third rail.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><u>Categories of
model trains by service </u> </b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><i><br /></i></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><i>Passenger:</i></b><i><span style="font-size: 10pt;">
A<b> </b></span></i><span lang="EN"><i>passenger train</i> is one, which includes
passenger-carrying vehicles. It may be a self-powered multiple unit or several
rail cars together, or else a combination of one or more locomotives and one or
more unpowered trailers known as coaches, cars or carriages. Passenger trains
travel between stations or depots, at which passengers may board and disembark.
In most cases, passenger trains operate on a fixed schedule and have superior
track occupancy rights over freight trains.<b><i><o:p></o:p></i></b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><i><span lang="EN">Streamliner:</span></i></b><span lang="EN"> A <i>streamliner</i> is any vehicle that
incorporates streamlining to produce a more stylish shape that provides less
resistance to air. The term is most often applied to certain high-speed railway
trains of the 1930s to 1950s, and to their successor "bullet
trains" </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN">
<b><i><o:p></o:p></i></b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><i><span lang="EN">Freight:</span></i></b><span lang="EN"> A <i>freight train</i> is a group of
freight cars hauled by one or more locomotives on a railway, ultimately
transporting cargo between two points as part of the logistics chain. Trains
may haul bulk material, inter-modal containers, general freight or specialized
freight in purpose-designed cars.</span><b><u><o:p></o:p></u></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><u>Types of model railroad cars</u></b><span style="color: blue;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Hoppers, Covered
Hoppers; Gondolas; Tank cars; Refrigerator cars; Boxcars; Automobile
transporters; Inter-modal transporters; Flatcars; Livestock cars & Cabooses<span style="font-size: 10pt;">.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><u>What do the numbers mean?</u></b><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
These numbers are used for the classification of steam
locomotives. For example- 0-4-0, 4-4-0, 2-8-2, 4-6-6-4, etc.<span lang="EN"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span lang="EN">-</span>The 1st number is the
number of leading wheels. These wheels support the front of the boiler and
guide the locomotive along the track.<o:p></o:p><br />
-The 2nd (or middle) number is the number of drivers. These wheels are connected
together and to the cylinders with rods to transfer the power from the steam to
the rails. They also support the bulk of the locomotive.<o:p></o:p><br />
-The last number is the number of axles in the trailing truck. These wheels
support the cab and firebox, where the fuel is burned.<o:p></o:p><br />
-On Diesel locomotives 4 wheel (2 axle) are called B trucks, 6 wheel (3
axle) are C trucks.<o:p></o:p><br />
<h1 style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: 0in;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><u>About Paints & Terms</u></span><o:p></o:p></h1>
<div class="MsoNormal">
In store we carry two types of paints, Acrylics and Enamels.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><o:p></o:p></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Acrylics:</b> <span lang="EN">Acrylic paint</span><span lang="EN"> is fast-drying paint containing pigment
suspended in an acrylic polymer emulsion. Acrylic paints can be diluted with
water, but become water-resistant when dry. Acrylic artist paints may be
thinned with water and used as washes<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span lang="EN">Enamels: </span></b><span lang="EN">Enamel paints are oil based paints. These paints
require a longer drying time and they are water and soap resistant<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span lang="EN">Wash</span></b><span lang="EN">: A wash is a painting
technique in which a paint brush that is very wet with solvent and holds a
small paint load is applied to a wet or dry support<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span lang="EN">Drybrush</span></b><span lang="EN">: Drybrush is a painting
technique in which a paint brush that is relatively dry, but still holds paint,
is used. The resulting brush strokes have a characteristic scratchy look that
lacks the smooth appearance that washes or blended paint commonly has.</span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Tools:</b> These are very important, as with any tools,
its best to have the correct one for the job you need to accomplish. Your most
important tools will be: Track cutters, wire cutter/strippers, hobby knife and
replacement blades, light gear oil, needle nosed pliers, track cleaning eraser,
extra wire in at least three different colours, hot glue gun, stiff bristle
paint brush, set of jewelers screwdrivers, fine to extra fine sandpaper,
patience and a sense of humor.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>Chinook & Hobby West would love to help you make the
most of your Model Railroading experience.
Come and visit us at 5011 MacLeod Tr. SW. Calgary, AB. </i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>Email </i><a href="mailto:hobbywest@shaw.ca"><i>hobbywest@shaw.ca</i></a><i>. We are open
10-6 pm weekdays, 10-6 Saturdays, closed Sundays and Holidays. </i><o:p></o:p></div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt;">Chinook & Hobby West carries N, HO and O scale trains in store. Any other scales that come in collections, we put on our <a href="http://www.ebay.com/usr/gossamer13" target="_blank">ebay site</a>. Our eBay handle is <b>gossamer13</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><b><i><span style="color: blue; font-size: large;"><u>Next week:</u> Throttle up Thursday begins! Once a month we'll be featuring a model train enthusiast. </span></i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><b><i><span style="color: blue; font-size: large;"><br /></span></i></b></span>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSt8klvR2VQB8hrYWgQ3Ay-XSg1-EMNptRT5uvtdCoG6wNsUnSEhXgfvaNOW2iH5G-aB3qxFR0uBwHb3UaL0ieyzUYfTZikphzwagIUR5OKIBx8IZ4qrxLC4GRB_arN3sa6p0k188Z9qA/s1600/Chinook+Hobby+West+Logo+-+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="172" data-original-width="154" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSt8klvR2VQB8hrYWgQ3Ay-XSg1-EMNptRT5uvtdCoG6wNsUnSEhXgfvaNOW2iH5G-aB3qxFR0uBwHb3UaL0ieyzUYfTZikphzwagIUR5OKIBx8IZ4qrxLC4GRB_arN3sa6p0k188Z9qA/s1600/Chinook+Hobby+West+Logo+-+small.jpg" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><b><i><span style="color: blue; font-size: large;">Chinook & Hobby West</span></i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><b><i><span style="color: blue; font-size: large;">"Where the Fun Begins!"</span></i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><b><i>ph: 403-243-1997</i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><b><i>email: <a href="mailto:hobbywest@shaw.ca">hobbywest@shaw.ca</a></i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt;">Facebook: </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><a href="https://www.facebook.com/ChinookAndHobbyWest">https://www.facebook.com/ChinookAndHobbyWest</a></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt;">Twitter: <a href="https://twitter.com/hobbyandtoy?lang=en" target="_blank">@HobbyAndToy</a></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt;">Pinterest:</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><a href="https://www.pinterest.com/hobbymum">https://www.pinterest.com/hobbymum</a></span>Chinook Hobby Talkhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16503374280939165613noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2644495380455376274.post-23328634638520060552017-09-04T11:00:00.000-06:002017-09-04T11:00:00.942-06:00More Rocketry Tips for BeginnersIf you're thinking about the Rocket hobby, just getting into it, or need a refresher these tips will be a great help. If you're in the Calgary area you can join the <b>Calgary Rocket Association</b>. <a href="http://www.calgaryrocketry.org/" target="_blank">Click Here</a> for their website.<br />
<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;"><b><u>Please keep in mind:</u></b> </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;">Model rockets </span><u>are not</u><span style="background-color: white;"> toys - you can't simply plug them in and turn them on expecting them to work. They can be dangerous if not handled properly and taken seriously. They are miniature real rockets and a number of things need to work perfectly and come together at the right time to ensure a proper launch. </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><b><span style="color: blue;">Note</span></b> unless otherwise stated references are to Quest or Estes model rockets (as opposed to Advanced, High Power or Amateur rockets and these tips are only our opinion through experience and research). </span><br />
<div>
<span style="background-color: white;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="background-color: white;"><div class="MsoNormal">
<b><u>Your Rocket</u></b><u><o:p></o:p></u></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Don't use double sided tape or self-adhesive tape to attach
shroud lines to the canopy or streamer. These can clog the body tube and will
eventually lose their stickiness. Instead use paper reinforcing rings. Glue
them on your recovery device, puncture though the centre hole, thread the
shroud lines through the hole and tie onto the canopy with a double knot. Pull
the lines firmly to make sure they won't come off when the recovery device
deploys. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Using a permanent marker, write contact details on your rocket
to increase your chances of getting the rocket back should you lose it. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
Make sure the<b> launch lug </b>is strictly parallel to the body tube
and there are no stickers/decals or other things that can catch or jam; in
front of or behind the lug. <b><span style="color: #0070c0;">Note</span></b> a poorly aligned body tube glued to the
fin unit can also cause a jam on the launch rod). <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
If the launch lug is molded to the plastic fin canister,
make sure any 'flashing' is removed from the inside of it.<br />
The <b>nose cone</b> must be an easy but snug fit into the body tube,
if it’s too loose the cone may release when the rocket slows down. Use masking
tape around the nose cone if it’s too loose. Hold the cone tightly in one hand
and pull on the shock with the other, to ensure your knot won't fail when the
recovery device deploys. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Make sure when gluing the engine mount together that excess
glue doesn’t end up inside the
engine mount. This will block the fitting of the motor. Wipe away any excess
glue immediately. And don't forget to glue the engine mount in - yes it does
happen! <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
You must use <b>wadding</b> and it <i>must be flameproof</i>. Toilet
paper, paper towel and tin foil will not work and will cause your rocket to
burn up, explode or melt.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><u>The Engine</u></b><u><o:p></o:p></u></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Make sure the engine is the recommended letter/number combo
for your model –the letter is the engine strength, the first number is how many
seconds of thrust and the last number is the seconds until the shoot deploys. Check
your instructions to get the recommended engine per your kit's instructions.
Using the wrong engine delay will cause you a lot of grief! The engine must be
a slip fit and slide easily into the engine mount. Never force the engine into
the mount. Get used to checking the engine nozzle (the hole where the igniter
is inserted). It will either be clay (white) or ceramic (black) - a black
ceramic type nozzle signifies a European manufactured engine and will warn you
that the delay time (coasting time) may be significantly longer than expected -
a 3 second delay can be more like 5 seconds, a 4 second delay can be more like
6 seconds, and a 5 second delay more like 7 seconds. Adjust the angle on your
launch rod upright accordingly. Taking a long walk is better than a destroyed
rocket!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/null" name="T4"></a><b><u>The Igniter</u></b><u><o:p></o:p></u></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
There are two types of igniter - the copperhead and the
nichrome igniter. The first looks like one piece of copper with a black tip
(the squib), and the second has two silver or copper wires. The nichrome
igniter has less resistance than the copperhead and requires less current to
fire, however it is brittle and fragile and so it is best to use masking tape
across the nozzle. The squib must be touching the propellant - (the black stuff
you can see inside the nozzle). Using a plug can cause the wires to come
together causing a short. And that's also why you don't remove the paper tape
on the nichrome igniter which keeps those wires apart! While the copperhead
igniter is 'bulletproof' it requires more current to fire, so your batteries
must be new and of the right voltage. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/null" name="T5"></a><b><u>The Launch Controller</u></b><u><o:p></o:p></u></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The battery (s) you use in your launch controller are often
the sole factor of whether or not you have a successful launch. You must use
the proper battery(s) and they must be new batteries. Lithium and alkaline
batteries, which together have a voltage rating of at least 6v-9v, are the only
batteries suitable for model rocket launch controllers. Lithium batteries are
the best, rechargeable batteries can give you a lot of grief, so don't use
them. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Insulating one jaw of each alligator clip (with masking tape)
is recommended. 'Flip' each alligator clip when attaching to the igniter so
that one <b>uninsulated</b> jaw is touching one side of the igniter
and the other uninsulated jaw touches the other side. Lightly sand
your safety key and always keep it clean. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/null" name="T6"></a><b><u>The Launch Pad</u></b><u><o:p></o:p></u></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Pin down your launch pad with tent pegs, especially on a
windy day. Also, make sure the launch rod is a tight fit in its mounting hole
where it fits into the base of the launcher. If using a two piece rod, the two
pieces must be a tight fit into each other and have no kinks. You don't want
your rocket taking the launch rod with it, when it lifts off! Sand the rod
lightly before launch and coat it with a <b>thin </b>layer of
petroleum jelly (Vaseline). Always use the 'stand off'' which ensures igniter
clips do not touch the jet deflector plate and cause a 'short'. If you lose the
'stand off'' use a burnt out engine instead. Test fit your rocket on the rod to
ensure it slides freely - <b>very important</b> Make sure the rod
safety cap is replaced on the rod after each launch.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Upgrade Tip</b> your
two piece rod can be replaced by one piece rod, .9 m to 1 m long, 3 mm in
diameter. Stainless steel rod is best, however piano wire from a hobby shop
will do the job.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><u>Ready to Launch<o:p></o:p></u></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The launch circuitry can be tested by installing the
igniter, battery, and safety key (not on all launch systems), and momentarily
pressing the launch button. The igniter should glow red hot. Release the launch
button immediately as the igniter begins to glow, otherwise it will soon melt
and have to be discarded.<br />
When the rocket is seated on the igniter make sure it’s fully inserted and centered
in the nozzle of the rocket engine. Just remove the launch rod, seat the rocket
correctly on the igniter and then carefully re-instal the launch rod. <b><u><span style="color: #0070c0;">Note</span></u></b>
due to the differing weight and aerodynamic shape of each of the rocket, not
all models will achieve the expected altitudes and some may surpass it. Rockets
with AT, A and B letters in the engines are great for beginners and first launches, larger engine sizes such a C and D
should be only used by intermediate to expert and a license/permit is required
for any engines larger than E.<o:p></o:p></div>
</span></div>
<div>
<span style="background-color: white;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="background-color: white;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="background-color: white;">Looking for more help and great tips? Check out our other Rocketry posts!</span></div>
<div>
<span style="background-color: white;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 20px; text-align: center;"><u style="font-weight: bold;"><a href="https://chinookhobbytalk.blogspot.ca/2016/06/4-simple-tips-to-flying-model-rockets.html" target="_blank">4 Tips to Flying Model Rockets</a>-</u> use/copy the engine chart </span></span></div>
<div>
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 20px; text-align: center;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div>
<span style="background-color: white; font-size: large;"><h4 style="font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-stretch: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; position: relative;">
<a href="https://chinookhobbytalk.blogspot.ca/2015/06/rocketry-tips-recovery-wadding-why-do-i.html" style="color: blue;">Rocketry Tips- Recovery Wadding, Why Do I Need It?</a><span style="color: blue;"> </span>- </h4>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<div style="font-size: medium;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><b><i><span style="color: blue; font-size: large;"><u><br /></u></span></i></b></span></div>
<div style="font-size: medium;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><b><i><span style="color: blue; font-size: large;"><u>Next week:</u> Car model tips!</span></i></b></span></div>
<div style="font-size: medium;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><b><i><span style="color: blue; font-size: large;"><br /></span></i></b></span></div>
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<div style="font-size: medium;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><b><i><span style="color: blue; font-size: large;">Chinook & Hobby West</span></i></b></span></div>
<div style="font-size: medium;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><b><i><span style="color: blue; font-size: large;">"Where the Fun Begins!"</span></i></b></span></div>
<div style="font-size: medium;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><b><i>ph: 403-243-1997</i></b></span></div>
<div style="font-size: medium;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><b><i>email: <a href="mailto:hobbywest@shaw.ca">hobbywest@shaw.ca</a></i></b></span></div>
<div style="font-size: medium;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt;">Facebook: </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><a href="https://www.facebook.com/ChinookAndHobbyWest">https://www.facebook.com/ChinookAndHobbyWest</a></span></div>
<div style="font-size: medium;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt;">Twitter: <a href="https://twitter.com/hobbyandtoy?lang=en" target="_blank">@HobbyAndToy</a></span></div>
<div style="font-size: medium;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt;">Pinterest:</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><a href="https://www.pinterest.com/hobbymum">https://www.pinterest.com/hobbymum</a></span></div>
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Chinook Hobby Talkhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16503374280939165613noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2644495380455376274.post-68784551275616923592017-08-31T11:31:00.000-06:002017-08-31T11:31:01.918-06:00Welcome to Model Railroading - Part 1<div class="Heading">
Welcome to Model Railroading - <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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Model railroading is a fascinating hobby and has been dubbed by many
as the “World’s Greatest Hobby”. It is very versatile and
incorporates many learning opportunities and is so fun for all ages. It
includes<b> creativity</b> with sculpturing, painting, airbrushing, decorating
and landscaping, and encourages <b>scientific exploration</b> of electronics,
physics, mechanics, engineering and architecture, all combined with humor,
friendship, family activities, social interaction, and the great sense of
accomplishment.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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<b><u>Things to consider before starting:<o:p></o:p></u></b></div>
<ul style="margin-top: 0in;" type="disc">
<li class="MsoNormal"><b><u>Space</u></b>
– plan out how big your layout can be, within the room you have available.
Keep in mind that you need to get to all points that has track. So you may
want to consider a U shape or a hole in the middle that you can get to any track should you need to.<b><u><o:p></o:p></u></b></li>
<li class="MsoNormal"><b><u>Scale</u></b>-
this goes with the Space point. If you have outdoor space, you may want to
model in G or O, in a small to large room HO, or for a really small space N. There are other scales too.<b><u><o:p></o:p></u></b></li>
<li class="MsoNormal"><b><u>Budget</u></b>-
plan to spend on the materials for the table, base, roadbed and track
first. Then some model train pieces, buildings and landscaping. This will
also prevent you from getting overwhelmed with too much to do.<b><u><o:p></o:p></u></b></li>
<li class="MsoNormal"><b><u>Tips</u></b>-
if you are interested in using long flat bed cars, passenger cars or other
long cars you need to make allowance for large radius curves or they will
derail. Come and visit us for great beginner guidebooks and guidance in
planning.<o:p></o:p></li>
</ul>
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<br /></div>
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<b><u>Model trains come in various scales (gauges):</u></b><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;">Ø<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><!--[endif]-->Z
1:220 (with all the letters identifying gauges Z became the smallest so they
used the last letter in the alphabet)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;">Ø<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><!--[endif]-->N (rails are Nine mm apart- hence the N) 1:160 <b>**</b><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;">Ø<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><!--[endif]-->HO (Half O or ‘aitch oh’) 1:87 **<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;">Ø<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><!--[endif]-->OO - 1:76 runs on HO track and is the British
version of HO<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;">Ø<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><!--[endif]-->S scale 1:64<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;">Ø<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><!--[endif]-->O (was referred as zero (or 0h) gauge) 1:48**<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;">Ø<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><!--[endif]-->G
(Garden) 1:20.3 to 1:32<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;">Ø<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><!--[endif]-->There
are many more gauges, although they are important to die-hard railroaders, we
will not be listing them here. You can
ask Rob, or Robby about those.<i><o:p></o:p></i></div>
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<i><br /></i></div>
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<i>Gauge refers to the width of the track, measured between the
railheads. Different from scale, which
is proportion to life-size.</i><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
At present, Chinook & Hobby West carries three Scales of
Model Trains for Sale: <o:p></o:p></div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">**O scale, HO Scale, and N scale. Any other scales that come in collections, we put on our <a href="http://www.ebay.com/usr/gossamer13" target="_blank">ebay site</a>. Our eBay handle is <b>gossamer13</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><b><i><span style="color: blue; font-size: large;">Next week: Learn about different track, buildings, painting and more!</span></i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><b><i><span style="color: blue; font-size: large;"><br /></span></i></b></span>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><b><i><span style="color: blue; font-size: large;">Chinook & Hobby West</span></i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><b><i><span style="color: blue; font-size: large;">"Where the Fun Begins!"</span></i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><b><i>ph: 403-243-1997</i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><b><i>email: <a href="mailto:hobbywest@shaw.ca">hobbywest@shaw.ca</a></i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Facebook: </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><a href="https://www.facebook.com/ChinookAndHobbyWest">https://www.facebook.com/ChinookAndHobbyWest</a></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Twitter: <a href="https://twitter.com/hobbyandtoy?lang=en" target="_blank">@HobbyAndToy</a></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Pinterest:</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><a href="https://www.pinterest.com/hobbymum">https://www.pinterest.com/hobbymum</a></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span>Chinook Hobby Talkhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16503374280939165613noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2644495380455376274.post-79103199058824579822016-07-29T20:47:00.000-06:002016-07-29T20:47:59.262-06:00I've Laid The Benchwork For My Train...... Now What???Believe it or not many people get stuck on what to do after they've made the benchwork for their train layout. Some want to just start putting their track right on the wood..... STOP! DON'T DO IT!<br />
<br />
First plan out if you have any hard to reach places on your layout. Unless you have a long arms reach, you may want to plan to put mountains, or a town, or something that doesn't require your constant attention. Ask yourself, if I have to clean the track in that area or get my derailed train, how easy will it be?<br />
<br />
Next cover all the top surface with a layer of styrofoam. It can be the regular white sheets, but the blue or pink used for insulation is the best and doesn't leave little round bits when you cut it.<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijY2IFssHLLqdi-pyIZxAp3cZ5-TUInUVK9mirysTfM2PBL3chicI7Udy-5m8DNVzT3MCH1pN_UKZHwSGIjJyNfrlbIL4Cuz_EELC3gGz7MmcXpmbvxpqmWZaJwURZuI5GDSy83mBNZLM/s1600/pink+styro.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijY2IFssHLLqdi-pyIZxAp3cZ5-TUInUVK9mirysTfM2PBL3chicI7Udy-5m8DNVzT3MCH1pN_UKZHwSGIjJyNfrlbIL4Cuz_EELC3gGz7MmcXpmbvxpqmWZaJwURZuI5GDSy83mBNZLM/s200/pink+styro.jpg" width="191" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjovXlQznjWpkTMN7PVDbA-5JHwUqgWUGrV9XqqvXGXZYSLN4Dcjyxc6vING6bWAR5z-YlW1sogdTxcChcNNBvx_JjL7OsqseT2LGkdUaU38v0bjC-2SVkUgo8cE0bR9Nl9LkMWFildv-M/s1600/styro-sheets.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjovXlQznjWpkTMN7PVDbA-5JHwUqgWUGrV9XqqvXGXZYSLN4Dcjyxc6vING6bWAR5z-YlW1sogdTxcChcNNBvx_JjL7OsqseT2LGkdUaU38v0bjC-2SVkUgo8cE0bR9Nl9LkMWFildv-M/s200/styro-sheets.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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<br />
You can use the foam to carve rivers and gullies, build up pieces for easy mountains, and as for trees? Just stick them right in the foam! By using the foam you're going to have an easier time with many aspects of the layout. <br />
<br />
Now, this is when you plan your track out, don't glue anything down yet though as you need to plan out buildings and scenery too.<br />
<br />
For this stage in planning, paper is your best friend! Cut squares out for approximate building base sizes, circles where you may want a forest, strips for roads and rivers, etc. Yes, this seems like work, just keep in mind that this will help you have a successful and running layout that you will enjoy. How crappy would it be if you were just laying things down and your track dead ended at a building or you have no place for that really neat roundhouse? Make sure to design your track plan too.<br />
<br />
One of our guys, Tyler has a fantastic layout and he did three posts for you to check out and get guidance and ideas from. Check them out:<br />
<h3 class="post-title entry-title" itemprop="name" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-weight: normal; margin: 0px; position: relative;">
<br /></h3>
<h3 class="post-title entry-title" itemprop="name" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-weight: normal; margin: 0px; position: relative;">
<ol>
<li><a href="http://chinookhobbytalk.blogspot.ca/2012/12/an-ho-layout-in-progress.html" target="_blank">An HO Layout In Progress</a></li>
<li><a href="http://chinookhobbytalk.blogspot.ca/2012/12/thompson-river-canyon-blog-edition-2.html" target="_blank">Thompson River Canyon Blog Edition 2</a></li>
<li><a href="http://chinookhobbytalk.blogspot.ca/2013/01/thompson-river-canyon-blog-edition-3.html" target="_blank">Thompson River Canyon Blog Edition 3</a></li>
<li><a href="http://chinookhobbytalk.blogspot.ca/2013/06/thompson-river-route-blog-5.html" target="_blank">Thompson River Route Blog 4</a> (this is labeled as 5, but is part 4)</li>
</ol>
</h3>
<br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><b><i>Now it's your turn! What questions can we help answer? Do you have photos to share with us? We love to see/share layout photos. Let us know how we can help you get further in your hobby.</i></b></span><br />
<br />
<a href="mailto:valhobbywest@shaw.ca" target="_blank">Email us</a><br />
<br />
Thank for reading our blog and Happy Hobbying!<br />
<br />
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<br />Chinook Hobby Talkhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16503374280939165613noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2644495380455376274.post-36646267599958739232016-07-21T21:50:00.001-06:002016-07-21T21:50:36.527-06:006 Tips and Ideas to Customize Your Model KitSo you've built a few model kits and you're ready to up your game and do something unique and different to your piece?<br />
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First, go check out your local hobby shop and get some ideas on what you may want to do to upgrade your model. Do you want to custom design and make your own decals? Change the interior? Add something completely different?<br />
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Ask yourself if this is for you or to enter in a show and what level you are building at. Be realistic with your skill level and remember with each kit you do, you're going to get better!<br />
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<b><i><u>Painting</u></i></b> is the most common way to make your model stand out. If you're brush painting, make sure to keep your brush strokes going in one direction for a better look.<br />
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When customizing your colours be sure to write down how much of each colour you're mixing so you can get an exact match each time. Who knows, someone may want that colour combo and ask you for the mix ratio. Use eyedroppers or pipettes to help with this.<br />
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<b><i><u>Weathering</u></i></b> can really add that "something special" to your custom build. It can make your piece look beat up and rusted or look as if it's just been though the mud. It can be used to create blaster marks on a Sci-fi kit, engine exhaust stains or peeling paint on a car.<br />
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It's all in how you use your paint and brush. For example for blaster marks use paint and brush to 'dry brush' the look you want. For a dusty look you can use chalks. Just make sure that after you create the weathered look you desire, seal it with a clear coat of Matte, Semi-Gloss or Gloss. You don't want to ruin that hard work.<br />
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<b><i><u>Decals</u></i></b> are a fun way to customize for beginner to intermediate builders. The majority of kits already have a sheet of decals ideal to your model choice, with sometimes two or three variant choices; But what if you want something unique to your imagination? Decal sets and paper are just what you're looking for.<br />
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Basically decals are layers of paint built up on plastic film with a paper backing. The glue is usually activated by water. Your printer may be up to the task of creating your decals.<br />
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When using decals make sure to cut as close to the pattern as possible (nail or craft scissors work best for this). Dip your decal in water for the instructions set amount of time and add it to your model. You can use Microset to help the decal settle onto the model more snugly. There are many articles and YouTube videos on how to use and apply decals. Practice makes perfect in this case. Even the most expert model builders can have trouble with decals. Just take your time with it.<br />
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Finally, consider adding your model onto a Diorama to add dimension and truly get the feeling across to those looking at your creation. They can be as simple or complex as you want them to be. Ask your experienced local hobby shop for tips and ideas.<br />
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With the help of your local hobby shop's knowledgeable staff, checking out a few YouTube videos, researching articles like this one and your own imagination, you can create a potential masterpiece from a humble box of plastic and photo-etched parts.<br />
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Make sure to read these great blog articles too and share them with a friend:<br />
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<li><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 18px;"><a href="http://chinookhobbytalk.blogspot.ca/2014/07/10-tips-for-buying-model-kit.html" target="_blank">10 Tips For Buying A Model Kit</a></span></li>
<li><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 18px;"><a href="http://chinookhobbytalk.blogspot.ca/2012/02/basic-tips-for-model-building.html" target="_blank">Basic Tips For Model Building</a></span></li>
</ul>
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<li><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 18px;"><a href="http://chinookhobbytalk.blogspot.ca/2014/01/model-tips-for-beginners-part-2.html" target="_blank">Model Tips for Beginners - Part 2</a></span></li>
<li><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 18px;"><a href="http://chinookhobbytalk.blogspot.ca/2015/07/model-kit-building-and-painting-tips.html" target="_blank">Model Kit Building And Painting Tips And Tricks</a></span></li>
</ul>
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Please make sure to comment below if you have a tip to share! Like our blog to get updates on the newest additions. We post every Thursday, alternating Trains and Model/Toys.</div>
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<i style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px; line-height: 20.79px;">Also, make sure to check out our <b><u><a href="http://www.chinookandhobbywest.com/" style="color: #6699cc; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">Website</a></u></b>, <b><u><a href="https://www.facebook.com/Chinook.Hobby.West" style="color: #6699cc; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">Facebook</a></u></b> and <a href="https://www.youtube.com/user/ChinookAndHobbyWest" style="color: #6699cc; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank"><b>YouTube Channel</b> </a>for inspiration, learning and fun!</i></div>
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Thanks for reading</div>
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Happy Hobbying</div>
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Chinook Hobby Talkhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16503374280939165613noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2644495380455376274.post-7271255706227807442016-07-14T17:00:00.000-06:002016-07-14T17:00:12.661-06:005 Tips for Beginner Locomotive Maintenance<div class="MsoNormal">
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<span style="color: blue; font-size: x-large;"><i><b><u>5 Tips for Basic Locomotive Maintenance</u></b></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>First</b> things first:
Make sure to have a suitable hobby area to work at. If you're working on small scales such as N or HO scale
you’ll need about 24 in by 24 in space. If
it’s a larger scale such as O or G you’ll need much more space. Oh, and ask
permission before using the dining room table…… interrupting mealtime or
getting hobby grease on the heirloom table may not go over so well with other
members of the household.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><b><i>(This is Robby's hobby desk space - good light, hard work surface, simple table)</i></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>Second:</b> Now that you
have a work-space, make sure you have the proper tools. Also check to see if the
manufacturer included any information on proper care and maintenance of your
piece. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">(Suggested LIST OF TOOLS)-Light oil, paper towel or small weave rag or cotton buds, wheel/track
cleaner or wheel cleaning kit.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>Third:</b> now you’re
ready to start! Remember that routine maintenance
will help your model train to run its best and hopefully prevent any major
repairs down the road. On the majority of Locomotives <span class="apple-converted-space"><span lang="EN-US" style="background: white;"> </span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="background: white;">light
oil on the motor & wheel bearings, and a light grease in/on the gears may
be needed- make sure that it is plastic compatible</span> (Labelle &
Woodland Scenics both have great light oil). Make sure to look at your manufactures instructions / specifications as they may have different requirements and may need something specific.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Take your time with
this as <span lang="EN-US" style="background: white;">a little goes a long way - 1 drop of oil per
bearing or crankpin is usually enough (sometimes more than enough...), and a
very little bit of grease on the gears. Don't glob everything on there -
you'll just have to clean it off later anyway (or it'll leak onto the track work
and make a mess)</span>. Have some paper
towel or fine weave rag to help clean up excess and/or spills.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>Forth:</b> pay attention to
your wheels! <span lang="EN-US" style="background: white; color: #333333;">Dirt
build up on wheels spreads back to the rails and can cause electrical pick-up
problems. Excessive dirt on the wheels themselves can even cause a derailment.</span> <span lang="EN-US" style="background: white;">There are some great cleaners and ‘helping hands’ when it comes to
cleaning the wheels of your model train. We’ve done two previous articles on
this and they’ll be listed below for you to check out too. <o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="background: white;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">If you run your finger along the wheel (where it meets the track) and your finger gets dirty, it’s time to clean the wheels. Take a cotton bud and dip it in your track cleaner. Run it around the wheel until the bud comes clean. Make sure to remove any cotton left behind so it doesn’t get into your gears later. You can do this with a fine weave cloth too.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0ssj255DTo0EOzn3qfPbdANh39urCRNnnku4IMgwFMHEPNYV4ZMtwg0HDB9wuF7dUotkvlvoANqhHEYXx93U8yUoQlV8zBGDg6QRZCWHCYxQOfxhIseDgw103ybj8Xe1T-cUW9gy3NYE/s1600/Roto+Wheel+Cleaner+Woodland+Scenics+TT4561_Chinook+Hobby+West.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="189" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0ssj255DTo0EOzn3qfPbdANh39urCRNnnku4IMgwFMHEPNYV4ZMtwg0HDB9wuF7dUotkvlvoANqhHEYXx93U8yUoQlV8zBGDg6QRZCWHCYxQOfxhIseDgw103ybj8Xe1T-cUW9gy3NYE/s320/Roto+Wheel+Cleaner+Woodland+Scenics+TT4561_Chinook+Hobby+West.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="background: white; color: blue; font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b><i>Watch the Video for the Roto Wheel Cleaner</i> <a href="http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/video/RotoWheelCleaner" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">CLICK HERE</a></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Some locomotives have
Traction Tires, it’s like a tiny elastic band of rubber on the wheels; make
sure it’s not stretched, worn or broken. If it is then the tire can’t grip the
wheel of the train so it will hesitate or not move. These can be bought/ordered
from your local hobby shop. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i><br /></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>DON’T FORCE A
LOCOMOTIVES WHEELS TO TURN!</i> You can wreck the trucks, gears or worse! Be
patient and if you’re uncertain, bring it to a hobby shop that has trained
repair people!<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>Fifth:</b> make sure your
track has been cleaned too. Some people forget that cleaning the track, at least
monthly, is important for a smooth running model train!<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 115%;">If you have done all the above and your train is
still having issues, it could be the motor. </span><span style="background-color: white;">Most common motor failures:</span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> a) no lubrication to motor bearings/bushings- motor either does not run or </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">squeaks loudly.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> b) over lubrication - oil/grease is everywhere causing debris to <span id="goog_529570388"></span><span id="goog_529570389"></span><a href="https://www.blogger.com/"></a>collect on the </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">motor, retaining motor heat and fowling armature-brush contact.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> c) when motor brushes are replaced on the motor make sure it is cleaned & lubed, carbon </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">dust from the old brush set is not cleaned from armature and motor </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">housing.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> d) dirty or pitted motor armature</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> e) worn brushes</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> f) rust caused by moisture, which deposit on motor armature, armature</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white;"> shaft, motor bearings and brush holder</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 16.8667px;"><br /></span></span></span><br />
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">There are many books and articles available with so much information. Take your time when cleaning your locomotive and if you're in doubt, take it to a hobby shop that specializes in train repairs. Most of the time, they will be glad to show you some tips!
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;"><i>If you enjoyed this article and/or if you have a comment or something to share, please leave it below. Also, make sure to check out our <b><u><a href="http://www.chinookandhobbywest.com/" target="_blank">Website</a></u></b>, <b><u><a href="https://www.facebook.com/Chinook.Hobby.West" target="_blank">Facebook</a></u></b> and <a href="https://www.youtube.com/user/ChinookAndHobbyWest" target="_blank"><b>YouTube Channel</b> </a>for inspiration, learning and fun!</i></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;"><br /></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;"><b>BONUS:</b> For more info about wheels and wheel cleaning </span>check out these great posts to learn
more “<a href="http://chinookhobbytalk.blogspot.ca/2013/08/replacing-model-train-wheels.html" target="_blank">Replacing Model Train Wheels</a>” and “<a href="http://chinookhobbytalk.blogspot.ca/2013/08/simple-wheel-cleaners-for-model-trains.html" target="_blank">Simple Wheel Cleaners For Model Trains</a>”.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Thanks for reading this blog post. Please subscribe so you don't miss a posting. Train posts are every other week and alternate with our model and toy posts.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Happy Hobbying!</span><br />
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Chinook Hobby Talkhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16503374280939165613noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2644495380455376274.post-9285440881195381552016-07-07T17:00:00.000-06:002016-07-07T17:00:33.226-06:00Creating Display Dioramas & Accessories For Your Action Figures <h3 style="text-align: left;">
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: navy;">We regularly ask for tips, article ideas and general info from guys and gals just like you! Recently, we were send this article. For the full article scroll to the bottom and hit the link.</span></span></h3>
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<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: navy;">This is just an opinion post about what you may try to do yourself. We are not responsible for any loss, injury, theft, etc. regarding any of the tips in this post.</span></span></div>
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Making an Oil Drum</h3>
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<li><span style="background-color: #f0f0f0; color: navy;">Take a 14 ounce can and remove the top and label. </span></li>
<li><span style="background-color: #f0f0f0; color: navy;">Use one of the new Euro-Openers that cut from the side for best results. Eat contents and clean can. Dry well. Using a hot glue gun, glue the top back on. </span></li>
<li><span style="background-color: #f0f0f0; color: navy;">Hot glue a 1/4" hex nut to the top near the edge and fill in the hole with glue. </span></li>
<li><span style="background-color: #f0f0f0; color: navy;">Spray the can one of 3 colors: sage green, battleship gray or mint green. </span></li>
<li><span style="background-color: #f0f0f0; color: navy;"> Label drums with rub on letters purchased from your local hobby shop. </span></li>
<li><span style="background-color: #f0f0f0; color: navy;">Display!</span></li>
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<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=2644495380455376274" name="WALLS" style="background-color: #f0f0f0; color: navy;"></a><br />
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<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=2644495380455376274" name="WALLS"></a></div>
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Making Walls</h3>
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Here's on way on how to make a stone wall:</div>
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<li>Items required: gravel, silicone RTV sealer (or caulking, or something similar), piece of wood as long as, and slightly wider than the section of wall you wish to build.</li>
<li>Glue the pieces of gravel to the wood using the silicone. Mix and match (like a puzzle) the gravel to give straight lines on the sides and eventually the top. The wall will get heavy enough to cause distortions if you try to do it all at once. Do about an inch or two high along the entire length of the wall and then let the silicone cure. Continue to add an inch or two in height every day until the wall is high enough. </li>
<li>If you need a really thick stone wall, use a piece of Styrofoam and glue the gravel to the sides and top of the Styrofoam. The wall will still get heavy but the Styrofoam will help a bit!</li>
<li>If you fit the gravel together tightly, you can make a replica of a mortar-less stone wall. If you prefer to make a replica of a wall with mortar between the rocks, make the wall as noted above and let the silicone cure. After the silicone cures, run a bead of Elmer's or another hobby glue along the joints between the gravel and then sprinkle fine sand over the glue. After that dries brush off the excess sand. You can get fine sand in different colors from a hobby store that carries supplies for sand art.</li>
<li>Build the wall up to the end edges of the wood. This will allow you to make several sections of wall that will be smaller, easily stored and allow configuration changes for dioramas, etc. If you need to make a 90 degree corner, you can either make the corner as part of one section of wall, or make the wood ends as wide as the wall instead of a bit wider.</li>
<li>To finish off the sections of wall, glue dirt, model railroad ground cover, etc to the wood at the base of the wall. Also glue in a few bits of straw to simulate taller growing grasses, etc. -- Rob S.</li>
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<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=2644495380455376274" name="BARBWIRE"></a></div>
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Making Barbed Wire</h3>
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=2644495380455376274" name="BARBWIRE" style="background-color: #f0f0f0; color: navy;"></a><span style="background-color: #f0f0f0; color: navy;">How to Make Barbed Wire: Items needed: 30 gauge wire (found in hobby stores, Wal-Mart, etc - used for flowers & stuff), twigs (about 1/2 inch diameter), piece of wood (about 1/2 inch thick, plywood OK), glue, locking pliers or forceps, wire cutters, drill & bits, saw, rag.</span><br />
<ol style="background-color: #f0f0f0; color: navy;"><br />
<li>Determine how much distance you want between fence posts. Also determine how high you want the fence to be (about 6 inches for a regular fence, about 16 inches or higher if you want to build a POW stockade).</li>
<li>Cut your wood about 2" - 3" wide and 2" - 3" longer than you want the fence section to be.</li>
<li>Cut the twigs to length, adding about 1/2 inch (or the thickness of your wood).</li>
<li>Drill 1/2 inch holes in the wood where you want the fence posts to be.</li>
<li>Glue fence posts into holes in wood. Set aside to dry thoroughly.</li>
<li>Cut a piece of the wire two times the distance between the fence posts, plus an extra 12 inches. For a 12 inch length of fence the length will be 36 inches (12 inches times two plus 12 more inches). The extra 12 inches of wire will be used to wrap around the fence post and secure the wire to the post.</li>
<li>Place the two ends of the wire together and pull the wire tight to form a doubled piece of wire.</li>
<li>Using the vice grip pliers or forceps, grab each end of the doubled wire and twist the wire. Keep twisting the wire until it has about 1/8 inch or less between the places where the wire crosses over itself.</li>
<li>Place the rag over the doubled & twisted wire and firmly pinch the wire (I fold the rag several times to give me a thicker pad of protection). Starting at one end of the twisted wire, squeeze and pull the rag along the length of the twisted wire (similar to closing a "zip-lock" bag). Do this a couple of times. What we are doing is setting the twist into the wire so when we remove the pliers/forceps the wire won't untwist by itself. You MUST use a rag or something similar because the wire will cut through skin if you try this with unprotected fingers!!! Set the wire aside.</li>
<li>Repeat steps 6 through 9 until you have one strand of wire for every inch to inch-and-a-half of post height.</li>
<li>Cut a bunch of 2" lengths of wire. Keep cutting, you'll need a BUNCH of these!</li>
<li>Take the 2" pieces of wire and wrap them around the twisted wire sections. Start about 3 inches from one end and wrap them every inch. Make sure you wrap them tightly against the twisted wire, and wrap each one about 4 times around the twisted wire. These will be the "barb" part of your barbed wire fence. Don't worry about how long the ends are, just wrap the entire length of twisted wire. Do this for all pieces of twisted wire you made in steps 6 - 9.</li>
<li>Take your wire cutters and snip off the extra length on each end of the barbs. Real barbs are about 1/2 inch long. I make the barbs a bit longer than normal (scale-wise) because they look better (i.e. you can see them!). Play around with the final length of your barbs and make them as long as you think looks good.</li>
<li>Wrap the ends of each section of barbed wire around the fence posts and twist the wire back on itself to hold the wire onto the post. BE CAREFUL - the barbs are REAL! ;-) Snip off the extra wire. Do this on both sides of the fence section, starting about 1 inch from the wood and working up about an inch for every piece of wire.</li>
<li>The fence section is finished. I make mine about 12 inches long so I can move them around easily. You can make them any length and any height. A good way to finish off the wooden bottom is to glue dirt, flocking, etc to the wood to simulate dirt, grass, etc. Need something besides fences? Make the sections of barbed wire and then coil them up to simulate coiled barbed wire. Use small (about 1 inch tall) pieces of smaller twigs glued into a wider section of wood, string the barbed wire between them and create "tanglefoot." Let your imagination roam wild! Good luck & have fun! -- Rob S</li>
</ol>
<span style="background-color: #f0f0f0; color: navy;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: #f0f0f0; color: navy;">To see the complete article <a href="http://www.oocities.org/pentagon/6985/joetips.htm#1" target="_blank">CLICK HERE</a></span><br />
<span style="background-color: #f0f0f0; color: navy; font-size: x-small; text-align: -webkit-center;">GI Joe® is a trademark of Hasbro, Inc.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #990000; font-size: large; text-align: -webkit-center;">We hope you enjoyed this post! Let us know what you think or share any tips or ideas in the comments below.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #990000; font-size: large; text-align: -webkit-center;">Check out our Website: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/ChinookAndHobbyWest/?pnref=lhc" target="_blank">CLICK HERE</a></span><br />
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thanks for reading this blog post and we look forward to your sharing with us.</div>
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Happy Hobbying!!</div>
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Valerie</div>
<span style="background-color: white; color: navy; font-size: x-small; text-align: -webkit-center;"><br /></span>Chinook Hobby Talkhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16503374280939165613noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2644495380455376274.post-58472468631532095122016-06-30T17:08:00.000-06:002016-06-30T17:08:01.352-06:00Alberta Railway Museum Part 2<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #990000; font-size: large;"><u><b><i>Alberta Railway Museum in Edmonton, AB</i></b></u></span></div>
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Last July my family and I checked out The Alberta Railway Museum in Edmonton, AB. (<a href="http://chinookhobbytalk.blogspot.ca/2015/07/a-day-at-alberta-railway-museum-part-1.html" target="_blank">Click here for that article</a>.) Due to a computer glitch we couldn't finish the second installment that was originally planned.<br />
So, here's some info on the museum and we hope to do many more as my family and I travel to, learn about and hear from other museums.<br />
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The Alberta Railway Museum is referred to as an open air museum as most of the exhibits and fun are outside and not in buildings. Although there are some buildings on site and a great gift shop, most of the fun is when you walk from and into exhibit to exhibit!<br />
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<b><span style="color: #990000;">When does it open in 2016?</span></b> the park opened May long weekend and is open summer weekends only. Hours are from 10 am to 5 pm. <a href="http://www.albertarailwaymuseum.com/hours--admission-prices.html" target="_blank">CLICK HERE</a> for more info.<br />
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<b><span style="color: #990000;">What can you see? </span></b> Restored, Refurbished and in progress real train cars, locomotives, buildings and equipment. You can even buy tickets for a ride around the park with a knowledgeable conductor to answer questions, give tidbits of history and recreate a piece of history.<br />
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<span style="color: #990000;"><b>Where is this fantastic museum located?</b></span> <span style="background-color: white; font-family: Roboto, Arial;">24215 34 St, Edmonton, AB T5Y 6B4, Canada</span><br />
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<b><span style="color: #990000;">What is their website address?</span></b> <a href="http://www.albertarailwaymuseum.com/" target="_blank">CLICK HERE</a><br />
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<b><span style="color: #990000;">Why go?</span></b> Great outdoor museum for those interested in history, trains and some fun exercise. It's great for the whole family!<br />
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<b><span style="color: red; font-size: large;"><i>What museum would you like to see featured from Alberta or British Columbia in Canada? We want to hear from you, so don't forget to <u>leave a comment</u> and <u>share this</u> with a friend!</i></span></b><br />
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<span style="color: blue; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Make sure to Like us on Facebook: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/ChinookAndHobbyWest/?pnref=lhc" target="_blank">CLICK HERE</a></span><br />
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<b>THANKS FOR READING THIS AND HAPPY HOBBYING!!</b></div>
ValerieChinook Hobby Talkhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16503374280939165613noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2644495380455376274.post-28876354568253790312016-06-23T17:00:00.000-06:002016-06-23T17:00:26.884-06:004 Simple Tips to Flying Model Rockets<br />
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 20px;"><b><u>4 Tips to Flying Model Rockets</u></b></span></div>
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<span style="color: #6a6a6a;">Building, designing and launching</span><span style="color: #6a6a6a;"> </span><span style="color: black;">model rockets</span><span style="color: #6a6a6a;"> is a great hobby that the whole family can enjoy doing; there is rocket fun for every skill level. There are a few things to consider when you begin your journey into model rocketry. Take this information into mind when purchasing your rocket and rocket accessories.</span></div>
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<u>1) Open Area</u> - It is very important you launch your model rockets in open areas, away from homes, businesses and NOT around airports. It is recommended to use an open field, like a farm or soccer field. Make sure to ask for permission first.<br />
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<u>2) Even Ground</u> - Launch your rockets from a level platform and always straight up. If the launch pad is tilted just a few degrees your rocket could end up several hundred feet away. Flying your rocket at a 90 degree, perpendicular angle will offer the maximum height out of your rocket engines.<br />
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<u>3) Skill Level</u> - It is always a great idea to start small when you begin a new hobby. Try not to jump into a project that maybe to overwhelming at first. Pick from a ready to Fly, Easy to Assemble or a Skill Level 1 model rocket for your first build. This will teach you how the rocket works and how much time is required to build a rocket. Over time you can move your way up to higher skill levels as your knowledge grows.<br />
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<u>4) Rocket Engine Size</u> - Much like the skill level of a model rocket, it is a good idea to begin with smaller engines.Rocket engines come in a few different sizes, and most beginner rockets launch a smaller size. Once you have a few launches under your belt, then you can begin launching larger rockets, with larger rocket motors.</div>
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<span style="color: #741b47;"><b>If you're in the Calgary area, check out the link below for more info and visit the calendar page for launches.</b></span></div>
<a href="http://www.calgaryrocketry.org/"><span style="color: #741b47;"><b>http://www.calgaryrocketry.org/</b></span></a><br />
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Thank you to <a href="http://www.estesrockets.com/customer-service/faq/" target="_blank">Estes</a> for this valuable information!<br />
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<br />Chinook Hobby Talkhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16503374280939165613noreply@blogger.com05011 Macleod Trail SW, Calgary, AB T2G 0A9, Canada51.0094047 -114.0678020000000330.262559699999997 -155.55217700000003 71.7562497 -72.583427000000029tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2644495380455376274.post-86187830579021172782016-06-16T12:33:00.001-06:002016-06-16T16:27:32.450-06:00An Interview with Model Train enthusiast: Robin Cain<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><i><u>An Interview with Model Train enthusiast: Robin Cain </u></i></span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<b><i><u><span style="color: #990000;">Robin:</span></u></i></b> I saw your Facebook request for photos of hobbies people are working on. I thought you would like to check these out.</div>
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<b><u><span style="color: blue;">Chinook:</span></u></b> <span style="background: rgb(224 , 237 , 255); color: #4b4f56; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif; line-height: 107%;">Fantastic!
Did you customize/paint it yourself? Tell me about this piece and why it's so
special. </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<b style="background-color: transparent;"><i><u><span style="color: #990000;">Robin: </span></u></i></b><span style="color: #4b4f56; font-family: inherit , serif; line-height: 107%;">It's an SD45 I made about 3 years ago...yes I did everything to it. Athearn BLUE box<span style="font-size: 9pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<b><u><span style="color: blue;">Chinook:</span></u></b> <span style="background: rgb(224 , 237 , 255); color: #4b4f56; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif; line-height: 107%;">Is there
anything else you would like to share about this SD45? </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<b><i><u><span style="color: #990000;">Robin:</span></u></i></b> (thumbs up) <span style="background: rgb(254 , 254 , 254); color: #4b4f56; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif; line-height: 107%;">ATHEARN
BLUE BOX DC POWERED pepped up a little bit... Jewel marker lights, air hoses,
grab irons, fire cracker antenna, rotating yellow Beacon, installed handrails,
roof hooks, extra decaling on steps & body, custom painted & numbered
number boards, center air hoses, box behind cab near turbocharger cover, custom
painted & decalled.... Here's more pictures</span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="color: #4b4f56; font-family: inherit , serif;">Got it at a YARD sale for a dollar,
it was a SANTA FE originally. Started off as a dummy. Recently was upgraded to a
powered unit.<span style="font-size: 9pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<b><u><span style="color: blue;">Chinook:</span></u></b> <span style="background: rgb(224 , 237 , 255); color: #4b4f56; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif; line-height: 107%;">Why did
you choose this loco to customize or paint?</span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<b><i><u><span style="color: #990000;">Robin:</span></u></i></b> <span style="background: rgb(254 , 254 , 254); color: #4b4f56; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif; line-height: 107%;">I was a
hobo in the late 70's and rode a lot of FRISCO trains. The FRISCO SD45's was one of the giant purring kittens I slept in sometimes at night in different yards...lots
of engineer's & trainmen knew me...I had a blast...miss it</span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<b><u><span style="color: blue;">Chinook:</span></u></b> <span style="background: rgb(224 , 237 , 255); color: #4b4f56; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif; line-height: 107%;">a hobo?
Where you checking out North America or just the US or just Canada?</span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<b><i><u><span style="color: #990000;">Robin:</span></u></i></b> <span style="background: #fefefe; color: #4b4f56; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt; line-height: 107%;">USA, NORTH
AMERICA</span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<b><u><span style="color: blue;">Chinook:</span></u></b> <span style="background: rgb(224 , 237 , 255); color: #4b4f56; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif; line-height: 107%;">Was it
undecorated when you started? or did you strip it and repaint it? or did you do
weathering and adding some things to a pre-painted loco?</span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<b><i><u><span style="color: #990000;">Robin:</span></u></i></b> <span style="background: #fefefe; color: #4b4f56; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt; line-height: 107%;">.</span><span style="background: rgb(254 , 254 , 254); color: #4b4f56; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif; line-height: 107%;">it was a
freight paint job for SANTA FE, only washed it with warm water & blue dawn,
I primed it grey, painted it white, taped over white areas & put the orange
to it with a badger spray unit, I altered the orange & added red, gloss
colors of course.</span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<b><u><span style="color: blue;">Chinook:</span></u></b> <span style="background: rgb(224 , 237 , 255); color: #4b4f56; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif; line-height: 107%;">How many
build hours did it take you to do the work you did on it?</span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="background: rgb(254, 254, 254); line-height: 107%;"><span style="background-color: transparent;"><i><u><span style="color: #990000; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><b>Robin:</b></span></u></i></span><span style="color: #990000;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 12px;"> </span></span></span><span style="background: rgb(254 , 254 , 254); color: #4b4f56; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif; line-height: 107%;">13 hours
to do units spread out over a month...I paint a tremendous amount of trains</span></div>
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<b><u><span style="color: blue;">Chinook:</span></u></b> <span style="background: rgb(224 , 237 , 255); color: #4b4f56; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif; line-height: 107%;"> How
long have you been a model railroader and how long have you been
painting/customizing your own pieces?</span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<b style="background-color: transparent;"><i><u><span style="color: #990000;">Robin:</span></u></i></b> <span style="color: #4b4f56; font-family: inherit , serif; line-height: 107%;">I am 57, I have been a model railroader for 53 years...I been painting
my own pieces since I was 10. </span><span style="color: #4b4f56;">I model the SEABOARD COAST LINE RAILROAD
between AUGUSTA, GEORGIA & GREENWOOD, SOUTH CAROLINA. </span><span style="color: #4b4f56;">Just finished these BRIDGES built out
of yard sticks & paint sticks</span></div>
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<b><u><span style="color: blue;">Chinook:</span></u></b> <span style="background: #e0edff; color: #4b4f56; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt; line-height: 107%;"> </span><span style="background: rgb(224 , 237 , 255); color: #4b4f56; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif; line-height: 107%;">Do you
have a designated hobby area?</span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<b><i><u><span style="color: #990000;">Robin:</span></u></i></b> Oh yes! My layout! And my creator’s table.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMI4hcuDIwm_JtkLvyM9WhtpT8Gvit9rLwAn5oXdozQ9PGstad7cEnmwdawGTc_FZe5qQa39mD2JGd9VQRN6i4W-OUvo5_SC4fr1RTP0EB56NRga8otWWnflmvX9yT9qpqAG2gQD9DrIA/s1600/Robin+Cain+Railroad+Blog+Photos+Hobby+Area+3+June+2016+Chinook+Hobby+West.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMI4hcuDIwm_JtkLvyM9WhtpT8Gvit9rLwAn5oXdozQ9PGstad7cEnmwdawGTc_FZe5qQa39mD2JGd9VQRN6i4W-OUvo5_SC4fr1RTP0EB56NRga8otWWnflmvX9yT9qpqAG2gQD9DrIA/s320/Robin+Cain+Railroad+Blog+Photos+Hobby+Area+3+June+2016+Chinook+Hobby+West.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<b><u><span style="color: blue;">Chinook:</span></u></b> <span style="background: rgb(224 , 237 , 255); color: #4b4f56; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif; line-height: 107%;">What is
your next project?</span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<b><i><u><span style="color: #990000;">Robin:</span></u></i></b> <span style="background: rgb(254 , 254 , 254); color: #4b4f56; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif; line-height: 107%;">My next
project is to paint 10 SD45's</span>. 6
BLACK...SCL 3 ROCK ISLAND BLUE 1 ROCK ISLAND RED<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b><u><span style="color: blue;">Chinook:</span></u></b> <span style="background: rgb(224 , 237 , 255); color: #4b4f56; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif; line-height: 107%;">What city
and state/province do you live in? Are you married? Do you share your hobby
with your kids/grandkids?</span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<b style="background-color: transparent;"><i><u><span style="color: #990000;">Robin:</span></u></i></b> <span style="color: #4b4f56; font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif; line-height: 107%;">ONEONTA, ALABAMA</span>.
<span style="color: #666666;">My kids thinks I'm crazy because I tell them stories about people I've
met honking and who I've played drums for. <span style="font-family: inherit , serif; line-height: 107%;">I have
a kids ministry. I give train's away to kids year round. </span><span style="font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif; line-height: 107%;">I am a train vendor, non-profit status</span>. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif; line-height: 107%;"><span style="color: #666666;">I'm a little different than most people...LOL...child of the 60's
& 70"s</span></span><span style="color: #4b4f56; font-family: "inherit" , serif; font-size: 9.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><u><span style="color: blue;">Chinook:</span></u></b> <span style="background-color: #cfe2f3;">Thanks so much for taking some time out of your
busy day and answering these questions.</span><span style="background-color: cyan;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="color: #073763; font-size: large;"><i>If you liked this blog post, please leave a comment below
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Thanks and Happy Hobbying!<o:p></o:p></div>
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Val, Chinook & Hobby West<o:p></o:p><br />
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Chinook Hobby Talkhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16503374280939165613noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2644495380455376274.post-91152879544574994472016-02-25T07:00:00.000-07:002016-02-25T07:00:12.988-07:00Model Railroading Scales - What Do the Letters Mean?<div class="MsoNormal">
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Model railroading is fascinating and has been dubbed by many
as the “World’s Greatest Hobby”. It is very versatile and
incorporates many learning opportunities and is so much fun for all ages. It
includes<b> creativity</b> with sculpturing, painting, airbrushing, decorating
and landscaping, and encourages <b>scientific exploration</b> of electronics,
physics, mechanics, engineering and architecture, all combined with humour,
friendship, family activities, social interaction, and the great sense of
accomplishment.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Many people who visit us ask if there is significance to the letter referral to different size trains; N, HO, O, G, etc. The answer is YES!! We've compiled a list of all the scales and why they were named with that letter designation.<br />
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<b><i>Please leave a comment after you've read this post and let us know what your thoughts on gauge and scale are and if this was helpful to you or not.</i></b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBFpNUZGj41QEDb79MjGl2f3SSr9RabgjXLXQ4myNUfXLHYk7p57ZgpfCVx8Bk7xRc96cOhy-stKzMTqhJsjEge-LMrAyuYfuTHQEQhQnrHqgepclm8hhMF0EtjuPSSgN5za4GxSQVtMs/s1600/Sheldon+Trains+Chinook+Hobby+West+Blog.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="166" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBFpNUZGj41QEDb79MjGl2f3SSr9RabgjXLXQ4myNUfXLHYk7p57ZgpfCVx8Bk7xRc96cOhy-stKzMTqhJsjEge-LMrAyuYfuTHQEQhQnrHqgepclm8hhMF0EtjuPSSgN5za4GxSQVtMs/s320/Sheldon+Trains+Chinook+Hobby+West+Blog.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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T - <span style="font-family: "wingdings"; text-indent: -0.25in;">Ø<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal;"> </span></span><span style="text-indent: -24px;">1:450 (referred to as 'Tiny' or 'Tokyo' as it <span style="font-family: inherit;">was </span></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; line-height: 22.4px;">introduced at the </span><a class="new" href="https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Tokyo_Toy_Show&action=edit&redlink=1" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: none; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; color: #a55858; line-height: 22.4px; text-decoration: none;" title="Tokyo Toy Show (page does not exist)">Tokyo Toy Show</a><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; line-height: 22.4px;"> in 2006)</span></span><br />
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ZZ - <span style="font-family: "wingdings"; text-indent: -0.25in;">Ø<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal;"> </span></span><span style="text-indent: -24px;">1:300 (</span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; line-height: 22.4px;">Until the 2006 announcement of </span><a class="mw-redirect" href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/T_scale" style="background: none rgb(255, 255, 255); color: #0b0080; line-height: 22.4px; text-decoration: none;" title="T scale">T scale</a><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; line-height: 22.4px;">, ZZ scale was the smallest commercially available scale for model railroads)</span></span><br />
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Z - <span style="font-family: "wingdings"; text-indent: -0.25in;">Ø<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal;"> </span></span><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">1:220
(with all the letters identifying gauges Z became the smallest so they used the
last letter in the alphabet)</span><br />
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N - <span style="font-family: "wingdings"; text-indent: -0.25in;">Ø<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal;"> </span></span><span style="text-indent: -24px;">1:160 (</span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica";">track gauge is 9mm, the N stands for Nine mm)</span><br />
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<span style="text-indent: -24px;">2mm</span> - <span style="font-family: "wingdings"; text-indent: -0.25in;">Ø<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal;"> </span></span><span style="text-indent: -24px;">1:152 <span style="font-family: inherit;">(</span></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; line-height: 22.4px;">similar in size to the slightly larger British </span><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/N_scale" style="background: none rgb(255, 255, 255); color: #0b0080; line-height: 22.4px; text-decoration: none;" title="N scale">N scale</a><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; line-height: 22.4px;"> at 1:148 and the slightly smaller European/American N scale at 1:160; it predates both versions of N scale)</span></span><br />
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TT - <span style="font-family: "wingdings"; text-indent: -0.25in;">Ø<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal;"> </span></span><span style="text-indent: -24px;">1:120 (referred to as Table Top as it fit so easily on coffee tables)</span><br />
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3mm - <span style="font-family: "wingdings"; text-indent: -0.25in;">Ø<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal;"> </span></span><span style="text-indent: -24px;">1:101 (</span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; line-height: 22.4px;">also known as </span><b style="background-color: white; color: #252525; line-height: 22.4px;">3 mm finescale</b><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; line-height: 22.4px;">, is a model railway scale of 3 mm: 1ft used for British prototypes. Introduced as British </span><a class="mw-redirect" href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TT_gauge" style="background: none rgb(255, 255, 255); color: #0b0080; line-height: 22.4px; text-decoration: none;" title="TT gauge">TT gauge</a><span style="color: #252525;"><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 22.4px;">)</span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt;">OO</span>- <span style="font-family: "wingdings"; text-indent: -0.25in;">Ø<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal;"> </span></span><span style="text-indent: -24px;">1:76 (Runs on HO track and is the British counterpart)</span><br />
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HOn3 - <span style="font-family: "wingdings"; text-indent: -0.25in;">Ø<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal;"> </span></span><span style="text-indent: -24px;">1:87 <span style="font-family: inherit;">(</span></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 18px;">The "n" in HOn3 stands for 'narrow gauge', </span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 18px;">HOn3 is still HO scale)</span></span><br />
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HO - <span style="font-family: "wingdings"; text-indent: -0.25in;">Ø<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal;"> </span></span><span style="text-indent: -24px;">1:87 (</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt;">Half O or ‘aitch oh’)</span><br />
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S - <span style="font-family: "wingdings"; text-indent: -0.25in;">Ø<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal;"> </span></span><span style="text-indent: -24px;">1:64 (First named Standard Gauge then to</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 22.4px;"> </span><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-size: 14px; line-height: 22.4px;">represent that Scale that was half of </span><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1_gauge" style="background: none rgb(255, 255, 255); color: #0b0080; font-size: 14px; line-height: 22.4px; text-decoration: none;" title="1 gauge">1 gauge</a><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-size: 14px; line-height: 22.4px;"> which was built to 1:32 scale)</span></span><br />
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On3 - <span style="font-family: "wingdings"; text-indent: -0.25in;">Ø<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal;"> </span></span><span style="text-indent: -24px;">1:48 (is narrow gauge O scale)</span><br />
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O - <span style="font-family: "wingdings"; text-indent: -0.25in;">Ø<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal;"> </span></span><span style="text-indent: -24px;">1:48 </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt;">(was referred as zero (or 0h) gauge)</span><br />
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G - <span style="font-family: "wingdings"; text-indent: -0.25in;">Ø<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal;"> </span></span><span style="text-indent: -24px;">1:22.5 ( G stands for Garden)</span><br />
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Live Steam - <span style="text-indent: -0.25in;"><span style="font-family: "wingdings";">Ø</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal;"> </span><span style="font-stretch: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> 1:2, </span></span></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; line-height: 22.4px;">1:4 or 1:3 scale</span><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;"><span style="font-stretch: normal;"> (</span></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; line-height: 22.4px;">Ridable, large-scale, powered by steam)</span></span><br />
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<i><b><span style="color: blue;">Gauge refers to the width of the track, measured between the
railheads. Different from scale, which
is proportion to life-size.</span></b></i><span style="color: #333333; font-size: 12px;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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At present, Chinook & Hobby West carries three Scales of
Model Trains for Sale: <span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt; text-decoration: inherit;">O scale, HO Scale, and N scale. This article was researched through Atlas, Kato, <a href="http://www.nmra.org/" target="_blank">NMRA</a> and Bachmann.</span></div>
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Chinook Hobby Talkhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16503374280939165613noreply@blogger.com1Calgary, AB, Canada51.0486151 -114.070845951.0486151 -114.0708459 51.0486151 -114.0708459tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2644495380455376274.post-46751858780801035782016-02-11T07:00:00.000-07:002016-02-11T07:00:19.131-07:00Tips for Restringing or Retightening Action Figures<br />
Over the years, we have purchased many collections with action figures in pieces because the elastics broke. We have also had parents come in asking if we repair action figures or if we can show/tell someone how to fix one.<br />
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Rob can show you. It is fairly easy if you are patient and have a steady hand. But because Rob is pretty busy and hard to nail down, he found an article that should help you out with some great tips, references and steps.<br />
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The following is taken from that article and there is a link at the bottom of this post so you can go see what else you can do to fix up those figures.<br />
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Before you read the article, here's a few things you may want to have on hand for when you're ready to fix your action figures.<br />
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<ol>
<li>a various selection of small 'O' rings or elastics</li>
<li>a sectioned container to sort the 'O' rings</li>
<li>a couple sizes of crotchet hooks (they come in metal, plastic & wood and can be found at craft stores)</li>
<li>fine tip craft scissors or sprue cutters</li>
<li>set of hobby screwdrivers</li>
</ol>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKqs5UaHV7YMvHxFB3iUp2vEVVhgsZXDAoVSKOBQmRrQC-iSuX2MlsXVYT-dM8Ah8nQY-j3MvNySfyqTbpTnxrtacbinokww2irsc7WHSXEwGlyCwOdDdI_fRXb0_NetwHAOt6_-e5XbA/s1600/O+rings+for+action+figures+Chinook+Hobby+West.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKqs5UaHV7YMvHxFB3iUp2vEVVhgsZXDAoVSKOBQmRrQC-iSuX2MlsXVYT-dM8Ah8nQY-j3MvNySfyqTbpTnxrtacbinokww2irsc7WHSXEwGlyCwOdDdI_fRXb0_NetwHAOt6_-e5XbA/s1600/O+rings+for+action+figures+Chinook+Hobby+West.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfSfHiWAcA8bm9yaohehOqkoCNqV99gRJz23eccd9VyPt3oMV8UfKcPd7v6ih33V8tH-uGNozp6QzKsg-XJibDm7md3ILqSctzSR2aLPCLpTu_MPDFA_sOKpcjH9bP-j-K0Q7zX2k-yd8/s1600/sideview+crotchet+hooks.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="197" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfSfHiWAcA8bm9yaohehOqkoCNqV99gRJz23eccd9VyPt3oMV8UfKcPd7v6ih33V8tH-uGNozp6QzKsg-XJibDm7md3ILqSctzSR2aLPCLpTu_MPDFA_sOKpcjH9bP-j-K0Q7zX2k-yd8/s200/sideview+crotchet+hooks.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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<b>Are you sitting comfortably? Then let's learn something neat!</b></div>
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<span style="color: blue;"><b><u>Idea 1</u></b></span><br />
The best way to tighten your Action Figure involves a partial re-string. You need to shorten the single elastic (or you can use a new 'O' ring to reconnect the pieces) that connects the two legs and the neck. You need a long tool with a little hook on it like a crochet needle and a thin phillips screwdriver.<br />
<ol>
<li>Holding Joe securely, pull his head away from the neck hole until you see the elastic that loops around the neck hook.</li>
<li>Push the screwdriver or crotchet hook through the loop to hold it securely above the neck hole.</li>
<li>This will allow you to easily unhook the neck from the elastic.</li>
<li>Set the head/neck aside.</li>
<li>Pull and separate the lower section away from the upper.<br /><em>Now you will have Joes two legs and abdomen section free to work on. </em></li>
<li>You can shorten (tighten) the elastic by folding it an inch or so and then stitching it at that fold point. Make sure you stitch it securely.<br /><em>Now you can "re-string" Joe by putting the hook down through the neck hole past the arm elastics and out through the bottom of the chest hole. </em></li>
<li>Hook your tool onto your tightened elastic and pull it up through the neck hole again. This will take alot of elbow grease. It will be very tight now..</li>
<li>Once you get it pulled just past the neck hole, stick in your screwdriver again to hold it above the neck hole.</li>
<li>Now, you can easily rehook the neck hook to the elastic.</li>
<li>Pull out the screwdriver, and you're done.</li>
</ol>
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=2644495380455376274" name="RESTRING" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: #f0f0f0; color: navy; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: medium; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; orphans: auto; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: auto; word-spacing: 0px;">Joe is back to tight fighting shape! This process will also work for restringing or tightening the arm elastic as well. It sounds a little tough, but once you do it, it becomes really easy. -- John Medeiros</a><br />
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As for the floppy joints, I suggest the following (but only if you are brave): Grab some slide lock pliers, (you know, the <em>big</em> ones you use on the sink) and squeeze each pin and rivet <em>gently</em> until it begins to compress. Use the very edge of the plier face, and avoid contact with the plastic. I found this works better that tapping the joint with the hammer because you can watch the joint for stress cracks and stop at any time. You may experience a little paint flaking, but that is easily repainted. You also may want to wrap the pliers in a thin cloth. -- John<br />
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<b><span style="color: blue;"><u>Idea 2:</u></span></b><br />
I repaired a Cotswold Elite figure that had its arms come off. Anybody that has seen the cord inside these things should understand why. Here is how I fixed him:<br />
<ol>
<li>Get a rubber band, the size that is used on newspapers and triple it up.</li>
<li>Take two bread twists and twist them together to form a piece about 4 or 5 inches long.</li>
<li>Tie one end of the bread tie to the rubber band, after attaching the rubber band to one of of the arms, and thread the bread ties along with the other end of the rubber band through the body.</li>
<li>Hook the other end of the rubber band on the other arm hook and then untie the bread ties. Your arms should snap right into place.</li>
</ol>
I don't know how long the rubber band will hold before it becomes brittle. It can't be any worse than that stupid cord that is in the figure though. This actually is a pretty easy fix as far as the arms are concerned. Give it a try if you ever have a figure do this to you. -- Jem<br />
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<b><u><span style="color: blue;">Other Ideas</span></u></b><br />
Restringing arms and legs is easy except for the hip pins. They can be tricky to remove with out breaking them. Try a small awl or leather needle to pop them out. Then use some rubber cement to put them back in. To pull the rubber strings I use a coat hanger. The end makes a good hook and it is easy to pull the leg string out of the neck hole to attach the head. Do the same with the arm string . Hook one shoulder then pull the string through with the hanger and connect the other side. -- LordVader<br />
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When restringing arms and legs, I don't bother with the thigh pins myself. I leave them in if still serviceable. I bought a little bag of teeny tie wraps (the zip strip type) and just tie wrap the elastic loop to the still in there thigh pin. It works great with no noticable looseness for the extra .05 extra distance. -- Aaron<br />
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To read more of this article <a href="http://www.oocities.org/pentagon/6985/joetips.htm#1" target="_blank">CLICK HERE</a><br />
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<span style="color: red;">This blog post is opinion only and any damage/injury or loss to product or person is the responsibility of that person and Chinook & Hobby West and it's employees are not responsible.</span>Chinook Hobby Talkhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16503374280939165613noreply@blogger.com0Calgary, AB, Canada51.0486151 -114.070845950.7289356 -114.7162929 51.3682946 -113.42539889999999tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2644495380455376274.post-80921884091461551342015-11-28T15:23:00.001-07:002015-11-28T15:23:46.005-07:00Gift Series Diamond Blocks Minion - Product ReviewChinook & Hobby West just got in some really neat Lego style sets from LOZ. Called Diamond Blocks. <br />
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I have to admit that one of the best perks of working at a hobby store is that you get to 'product test' the new product!<br />
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This time it's Robby's turn.<br />
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Out of the four designs that we are experimenting with, Robby decided to put together Minion #9161.<br />
It has 260 pieces, and the box suggests 14+. Robby is 13 and had almost no trouble putting it together. Although it did take some time as the pieces are small.<br />
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<b>The rest is from Robby's point of view:</b><br />
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First read the instructions and make sure all your pieces are included. There's 260 so check carefully! (however, there are one extra of every piece so if you loose one there's an extra.)<br />
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As you construct this piece, you do it in layers starting at the base and it's hollow inside. I'm going to build it as a display so I'll probably glue it together. You can to, if you're never going to dissemble it.<br />
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Now by this stage I was two and a half hours in to building it. Although you do have to look at the instructions very closely because they're not as clear as Lego's are.</div>
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The mouth took me about two try's (depending on your skill with Lego building you may do better - lol) as it is a very weird shape.</div>
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You can place the pupils anywhere in the eye's but I chose to make him look straight. </div>
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The goggles are fun because they make him look more like a minion.<br />
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I put the finished piece in a custom made display case just for fun, and enhance the look.<br />
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You can buy these neat sets (and the proper display case) at our <b><a href="http://www.chinookandhobbywest.com/store/c1/Featured_Products.html" target="_blank">online store,</a></b> or come down to our store location in Calgary.<br />
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The others we currently have at Chinook & Hobby West are:<br />
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We have over 33 different designs!</div>
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Each piece is between 100 and 300 pieces and stand about 3 inches tall when completed.</div>
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Thanks for reading our blog and please leave a comment about what you thought about this entry or if you have any ideas for future posts.</div>
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~Robby</div>
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& Val</div>
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<br />Chinook Hobby Talkhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16503374280939165613noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2644495380455376274.post-75424153503477716432015-07-20T22:19:00.001-06:002015-07-21T11:04:49.147-06:00A Day At the Alberta Railway Museum - Part 1July 1st, 2015 we had a chance to visit the <a href="http://www.albertarailwaymuseum.com/" target="_blank">Alberta Railway Museum</a>. First we went through the open air museum, then we got a special behind the scenes tour. So on behalf of Chinook & Hobby West, the Gale family and of course, the Alberta Railway Museum - enjoy!<br />
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What's greeting you at the beginning?<br />
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CP GP30 - 1 of only 2 that CP owned this one is just a husk and very cool to see one live and not just in photos</div>
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Once we got into the park No. 73 was waiting to greet us. It's a NAR 2-8-0 Consolidation: missing a drive gear, but impressive sitting at the front of a boom car and bay window caboose.<br />
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The next on our tour was the NAR (Northern Alberta Railway) 40' Flanger (Val's fav). #16601 built in 1914 by National Steel Car Company in Hamilton, ON. <br />
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The NAR Cook Car #17062. Built in 1917 - this 40' wood sheathed cook car was originally built as a box car and was converted in 1944 to a kitchen car.<br />
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Then we were distracted by CN #9000 - Canadian Nationals very first F-3 delivered in 1948. For Canada Day it sported Canadian flags. It was the first run of the season. Followed by coaches that were in service until 1975. They're light weight coaches used for daytime commuters, back East.<br />
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On this run the conductor was Hans Huzinga. It was fascinating listening to all the history of the park and the different trains that he was sharing with us all.<br />
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The engineer was Graham Wood. He worked for CN as an engineer before retiring and volunteering to help run the #9000 at the Alberta Railway Museum.<br />
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The tail end brakeman for the day was Joel Mullan. He was great with the kids, encouraging them to come and try the whistle that was at the back of the car.<br />
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The ride itself takes you back and forth along a shortline. Graham, the engineer, made sure we had a smooth ride with no jolts, hesitations or bumps. He said 'the Old Lady needs to be treated gently so everyone can have a fun ride'.<br />
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On our short trip we pass by an old set of trucks and some prime movers that were donated to the museum by Northern Alberta Railway and Western CNR.<br />
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Our conductor shared how this shortline connected to the main line that was once used for runs to Lac La Biche.<br />
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As Hans shares all his wealth of knowledge the whistle blows twice. Then as the train comes to a stop and then smoothly shifts to traveling in reverse, the whistle then blows three times. Hans lets us know that when the train travels forward on a main line it blasts its whistle twice. If it travels in reverse, that's three blasts.<br />
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After the train ride ends, we pull into the St. Albert station that houses a fun gift shop and the telegraph office which leads into a mini museum of the history of the telegraph. Both are a must see before you leave this great museum.<br />
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After a couple of hours taking our time through all the wonderful pieces - all with differing degrees of restoration; we were given a behind the scenes look in the car sheds and engine shops.<br />
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But that's for next week.........<br />
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Come back and check out our next post and feel free to comment on this one. Share thoughts, memories or what you may want to see.<br />
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Val & Rob<br />
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<br />Chinook Hobby Talkhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16503374280939165613noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2644495380455376274.post-46674411511219566212015-07-14T23:03:00.002-06:002015-07-14T23:03:54.191-06:00Model Kit Building And Painting Tips And Tricks<b>Our staff here at Chinook & Hobby West have noticed many of the same questions from our beginner level model builders. We have done some research and pooled our own knowledge to share some tips and tricks to help you along your hobby adventure.</b><br />
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<b>Please leave a comment below and let us know your tips, ideas or if this article helped you.</b><br />
<b>Enjoy and Happy Hobbying!</b><br />
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<div style="background-color: white; border: 0px; font-size: 20px; letter-spacing: 0.01em !important; line-height: 32px; margin-bottom: 10px; padding: 0px;">
<strong style="border-image-outset: initial; border-image-repeat: initial; border-image-slice: initial; border-image-source: initial; border-image-width: initial; border: 0px; letter-spacing: 0.01em !important; margin: 0px 0px 10px; padding: 0px; word-break: break-word;"><span style="color: #20124d; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><u>Building a Model</u></span></strong></div>
<ol style="background-color: white; border: 0px; font-size: 20px; letter-spacing: 0.01em !important; line-height: 32px; margin: 0.5em 0px; padding: 0px 0px 0px 30px;">
<li style="border: 0px; letter-spacing: 0.01em !important; margin: 0px 0px 10px; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">You need a designated space such as a large table with good lighting.</span></li>
<li style="border: 0px; letter-spacing: 0.01em !important; margin: 0px 0px 10px; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Read through the instructions a couple of times before you start.</span></li>
<li style="border: 0px; letter-spacing: 0.01em !important; margin: 0px 0px 10px; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Cut, don't snap off, individual parts from the plastic sprues.</span></li>
<li style="border: 0px; letter-spacing: 0.01em !important; margin: 0px 0px 10px; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Compare the parts included, to the list of parts in the instructions.</span></li>
<li style="border: 0px; letter-spacing: 0.01em !important; margin: 0px 0px 10px; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Smooth the edges of parts using a sanding stick or file to remove nubs and excess plastic resulting from manufacturing, then wash them in a mild detergent and allow to dry. Make sure to use gentle pressure when sanding so you don't take too much off.</span></li>
<li style="border: 0px; letter-spacing: 0.01em !important; margin: 0px 0px 10px; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Collect your tools.</span></li>
<li style="border: 0px; letter-spacing: 0.01em !important; margin: 0px 0px 10px; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Follow the parts assembly sequence exactly. Be patient and don't jump ahead.</span></li>
</ol>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><strong style="border: 0px; letter-spacing: 0.01em !important; margin: 0px 0px 10px; padding: 0px; word-break: break-word;"><i><span style="color: #20124d;">Extra Tips</span></i></strong><br style="letter-spacing: 0.01em !important; margin-bottom: 10px;" />-Use the minimum amount of glue necessary to make a solid bond. <br style="letter-spacing: 0.01em !important; margin-bottom: 10px;" />-Enhance your assembled model by filling in gaps with putty and carefully sanding the filled surface.</span></div>
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<span style="color: blue; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><b><i>Come down and see us at Chinook & Hobby West or email us if you have any questions.</i></b></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; border: 0px; font-size: 20px; letter-spacing: 0.01em !important; line-height: 32px; margin-bottom: 10px; padding: 0px;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><b><i><br /></i></b></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; border: 0px; font-size: 20px; letter-spacing: 0.01em !important; line-height: 32px; margin-bottom: 10px; padding: 0px;">
<strong style="border: 0px; letter-spacing: 0.01em !important; margin: 0px 0px 10px; padding: 0px; word-break: break-word;"><span style="color: #351c75; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><u>Painting Your Model</u></span></strong></div>
<ol style="background-color: white; border: 0px; font-size: 20px; letter-spacing: 0.01em !important; line-height: 32px; margin: 0.5em 0px; padding: 0px 0px 0px 30px;">
<li style="border: 0px; letter-spacing: 0.01em !important; margin: 0px 0px 10px; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Do some research if you're building a replica. Every era has incorporated its own style. A replica of a Cadillac painted pink would not be an accurate model of the original car but may be your vision of your dream car.</span></li>
<li style="border: 0px; letter-spacing: 0.01em !important; margin: 0px 0px 10px; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">If you can, find a modeler's club and learn hands-on tips from more experienced modelers. There are some great online forums on the internet.</span></li>
<li style="border: 0px; letter-spacing: 0.01em !important; margin: 0px 0px 10px; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Plan your paint scheme if you're doing your own design. Write down the colours you're thinking about so you don't forget that vision.</span></li>
<li style="border: 0px; letter-spacing: 0.01em !important; margin: 0px 0px 10px; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Work on a clean surface.</span></li>
<li style="border: 0px; letter-spacing: 0.01em !important; margin: 0px 0px 10px; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Clean your model. Use rubbing alcohol or plastic prep and let the model dry thoroughly. This helps to remove all oil and any other contamination, including excess glue.</span></li>
<li style="border: 0px; letter-spacing: 0.01em !important; margin: 0px 0px 10px; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Put the model or model part on a paint stand or on a drop cloth.</span></li>
<li style="border: 0px; letter-spacing: 0.01em !important; margin: 0px 0px 10px; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Shake the spray can thoroughly to mix paint properly.</span></li>
<li style="border: 0px; letter-spacing: 0.01em !important; margin: 0px 0px 10px; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Test the nozzle by spraying a piece of cardboard, such as the inside lid of your model box.</span></li>
<li style="border: 0px; letter-spacing: 0.01em !important; margin: 0px 0px 10px; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Plan on multiple thin coats rather than one thick coat.</span></li>
<li style="border: 0px; letter-spacing: 0.01em !important; margin: 0px 0px 10px; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Start spraying to one side of the model, stroke over the model, and spray past the model before you stop. Keeping the spray about 6 to 8 inches away from the project.</span></li>
</ol>
<div style="background-color: white; border: 0px; font-size: 20px; letter-spacing: 0.01em !important; line-height: 32px; margin-bottom: 10px; padding: 0px;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="color: #351c75;"><strong style="border: 0px; letter-spacing: 0.01em !important; margin: 0px 0px 10px; padding: 0px; word-break: break-word;">Extra Tips</strong> </span><br style="letter-spacing: 0.01em !important; margin-bottom: 10px;" />-Aerosol spray paints are good, but you may want to invest in an airbrush as you grow in the hobby. <br style="letter-spacing: 0.01em !important; margin-bottom: 10px;" />-Bright, shiny finishes can be achieved by painting the desired color, letting the model dry, spraying with a clear coat, and then finishing with a buffing compound. <br style="letter-spacing: 0.01em !important; margin-bottom: 10px;" />-Complete the detail work as necessary with fine-tipped artist brushes.<br style="letter-spacing: 0.01em !important; margin-bottom: 10px;" />-Use thinners for your type of paint (acrylic thinner for acrylic paint) when brush painting.<br style="letter-spacing: 0.01em !important; margin-bottom: 10px;" />-Paint in a ventilated area. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">-Wear a painter's mask if you are sensitive to smells. <br style="letter-spacing: 0.01em !important; margin-bottom: 10px;" />-Many experienced modelers suggest using primers when painting.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">We hope that these tips and tricks help you create a piece you can be proud of. Remember to have patience, take your time and if you get frustrated, walk away (after you clean up). You can always go back to it later!</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal;"><span style="color: blue; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Please leave a comment and remember, these ideas are not finite; there are so many things to try and experiment with. Have FUN!</span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">These tips are <a href="http://www.ebay.com/gds/Model-Kit-Building-And-Painting-Tips-And-Tricks-/10000000004018417/g.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">suggestions</a> and we are not responsible for damage or accidents that occur to your project.</span></span></div>
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Chinook Hobby Talkhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16503374280939165613noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2644495380455376274.post-52666301774239706192015-06-29T12:08:00.001-06:002015-06-29T12:08:44.667-06:00Rocketry Tips- Recovery Wadding, Why Do I Need It?<span style="font-size: large;"><b><i><span style="color: blue;">Summer is a great time to take up Model Rocketry. Who wouldn't want to see something get 'blown-up'.</span>*</i></b></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: Tahoma, Arial, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 16.2000007629395px;">Flame resistant recovery wadding protects the recovery system and is necessary to launch model rockets. Although it looks like toilet paper or thin paper towel, it is NOT the same! Wadding is specially treated to protect your parachute and rocket from melting or exploding so you get the maximum enjoyment out of your model rocket.</span></span></span><br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">#<span style="background-color: white; font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; line-height: 11px;">3556 - Pro Series II™ Recovery Wadding</span></span></b><br />
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Flame resistant recovery wadding is necessary for launching model rockets. It prevents melting and destruction of your rocket and parachute.<br />
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Enough wadding for 10-12 Pro Series II launches.</div>
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Can also be used with any Estes rockets!</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>#2274 - Recovery Wadding</b></span><br />
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The flame resistant wadding is required in most Estes rockets unless they are tumble recovery.</div>
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Contains 75 sheets, enough for about 18-25 flights and is absolutely necessary to launch model rockets.</div>
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Come on down to Chinook & Hobby West - It's Where The Fun Begins!<br />
<a href="http://www.chinookandhobbywest.com/">http://www.chinookandhobbywest.com/</a><br />
<br />
<a href="mailto:hobbywest@shaw.ca">hobbywest@shaw.ca</a><br />
<br />
1-403-243-1997<br />
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<br />
If you're in Calgary, AB or area here is a great site with a calendar so you can see rockets of all sizes being launched. They also have the info on the by-laws you need to stick with so you don't get a ticket launching those rockets <a href="http://www.calgaryrocketry.org/" target="_blank">Calgary Rocketry Association</a><br />
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* please be careful when using any rocketry supplies or engines. You can get seriously injured if you do not follow the instructions. Chinook & Hobby West is not responsible for loss, injury or death that may be caused by using any products we may or may not feature.Chinook Hobby Talkhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16503374280939165613noreply@blogger.com45011 Macleod Trail Southwest, Calgary, AB T2G 0A9, Canada51.0092067 -114.0677271999999825.4871722 -155.37632119999998 76.5312412 -72.75913319999998tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2644495380455376274.post-18031965659457192162015-04-10T09:00:00.000-06:002015-04-10T09:00:37.095-06:00Tips for Painting and intalling a canopy on your model aircraft<br />
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Have you ever felt frustrated trying to put a conopy on your aircraft? Did it cloud up or the paint wasn't looking great on the canopy accent?<br />
I know how you feel! When little mistakes happen it tends to kill any creative inkling you may have felt.<br />
It's daunting enough creating your favourite aircraft – never mind putting together a piece you can be proud to show off.<br />
Here's some helpful tips to help create a model to be proud of; without fancy terms, and keeping it simple.<br />
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When you've finished this post, you'll know exactly how to create a great canopy for your next model plane.<br />
<i>Please make sure to comment on this blog post with your thoughts and don't forget to sign up to our Newsletter to keep up on new product, contests, sales and more!</i><br />
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Let's have some fun!<br />
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-Two kinds of successful mask. Liquid and tape<br />
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Before starting, make sure you have all your supplies together. Your mask tape, hobby knife with a sharp blade (#11 works best), proper cutting surface, good lighting, hobby paint for your project and Clear parts glue<br />
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<b><span style="color: #38761d;"><u>MASKING THE CANOPY FOR PAINTING</u></span></b><br />
1) make sure that all the clear airplane model parts are clean, dry and free of any fingerprints or dust. And your hands are clean and dry.<br />
2) Start with the 6mm Tamiya masking tape. Tear off a 4' piece and starting at the rear flat edge, carefully run the tape along the bottom outline of the<br />
<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>canopy. Gently press into place.<br />
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<a href="https://youtu.be/wVYRZhRoF_o" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"><img alt=" a short video with more tips for Masking Your Canopy" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTO9htLhOSwqhFcxTifAuAY5a7UqMIVOp5K-SxIxeiSbQJbCBQ_0tQS3P0TF3ji6crJy3ch4qZQ8uPc_5wb0WOh-BXG7nRm_SMuMz6c0WKqTXom_3xmfUdh2TaQUzIX4pShAV07Uh5S6c/s1600/masking+a+canopy+Chinook+Hobby+West.jpg" height="180" width="320" /></a></div>
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3) Using the 6mm tape, mask alongside any raised parts (so you don't cover the part you want to paint)<br />
4) Bring the tape smoothly to the end of the edge and cut off excess.<br />
<i><b>Tip:</b> Make sure to cut past the end of your piece of canopy or you may cut into or scratch, your conaopy</i><br />
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5) Either continue to mask areas you don't wish to paint with the 6mm or fill in with the wider tape such as the 18mm.<br />
6) Take your time when masking - it's a learning process.<br />
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<i><b>Tip:</b> If you choose to use liquid mask, just use a fine brush to paint on the liquid mask and let it set before you paint your model (follow the directions on the</i><br />
<i>bottle). Peel off mask after you've let the paint dry, scoring the mask along the paint line for clean edges.</i><br />
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<i><b>TIP:</b> It's really important to take your time, use a very sharp hobby knife and cut a clean, precise section, free of tearing. Any raised details you intend to paint,</i><br />
<i>should be the only areas visible through the mask.</i><br />
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<b><span style="color: #38761d;"><u>PAINTING YOUR CANOPY:</u></span></b><br />
Now it's time to paint the canopy of your model aircraft.<br />
1) Airbrush or handpaint your first coat using the interior cockpit colour and allow some time for it to dry.<br />
2) paint the fuselage colour over it and allow it to dry. Or finish the canopy of the aircraft by applying your preferred paint colours<br />
3) finish with a final coat to seal the paint (dull, gloss, etc.) over the canopy <u>before</u> you remove the mask.<br />
4) After all paint has dried, use your hobby knife and carefully run it along the edge of your mask and gently lift off the mask with the tip of the blade and slowly peel off the mask.<br />
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<b><i>Enjoy your work!</i></b><br />
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<i><b>Tip:</b> don't use dullcote or gloss cote directly on clear areas, if you wish that part to move on your model. Spray the model and clear part separately, then attach the clear part. Don't spray any unmasked clear parts as dullcote can cause the part to fog, so keep the mask on and spray the painted areas.</i><br />
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Now you're ready to glue on your canopy<br />
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<b><u><span style="color: #38761d;">USING CANOPY GLUE</span></u></b> (clear parts glue)<br />
- This is a glue that dries clear and doesn't cloud your clear parts<br />
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Now your canopy is ready to install. I like to use Testors Clear Parts Glue to glue it in place. This glue goes on white but then dries clear. It's best to put a small puddle on a scrap piece of cardboard and use a tooth pick to draw a fine line of glue around the perimeter of the Canopy.<br />
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Now place it in position and use folded piece of Kleenex or paper towel to hold it in place and avoid fingerprints. Once the glue has dried, apply the rest of the glue and guide it into position if needed.<br />
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<i> <b>Tip:</b> The Testors Clear Parts glue cleans up with water before it dries so you can wipe small smudges off with a damp cloth.</i><br />
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<i><b>```Extra Tip:</b> using Future floor finish. This technique will make the clear plastic appear thinner and clearer. Surprisingly, it can also hide minor scratches and blemishes that are often unavoidable when working with clear model kit parts.</i><br />
<a href="http://www.modelaces.com/_scale_model_tutorials/painting_techniques_canopy.php" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Check out how:</a><br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Now it's your turn! Please leave a comment on what you thought of this blog post. We would also love to see your work or works in progress!</span></b> <a href="http://www.chinookandhobbywest.com/" target="_blank">Please email us with your photos Today!</a>Chinook Hobby Talkhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16503374280939165613noreply@blogger.com1Windsor Park, Calgary, AB, Canada51.009249214290016 -114.0682435417724651.004226714290013 -114.07837154177246 51.014271714290018 -114.05811554177247tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2644495380455376274.post-58298610708177870122014-07-07T09:00:00.000-06:002014-07-07T09:00:04.331-06:0010 Tips For Buying A Model Kit<br />
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Generally a model kit contains a scale model of an object or vehicle - automobile, aircraft, military vehicle, motor, building, replica figure, etc. (there are many to look at and choose from). Such kits include all the necessary pieces of the idea photo on the box (make sure to ask if you are unsure as some buildings show fences and trees, but these are sold separately or just a special part(s) of a larger model), which the hobbyist assembles and then personalizes with paints and decals (usually sold separately).<br />
With model kits, there are two primary types of hobbyists: the builder and the collector. The builder fancies the challenge and the hands-on aspect. The collector, on the other hand, focuses on the possessing, and many collectors opt to display the kits untouched, in their original packaging.</div>
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Buying a Model Kit</h2>
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For the new hobbyist, buying a model kit can be a daunting task simply due to the sheer amount of choice that’s available. Collectors have to choose a vehicle and the scale at which they want to work. Then, they have to factor in price, complexity, customization, tools and supplies, and so forth. If the desired model is no longer manufactured, then the hobbyist has to deal with a series of additional concerns, including appreciation. Choosing a kit is not simple, but even the new hobbyist can avoid the most common pitfalls by following these 10 tips:<br />
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1. Research Model Kit Types</h3>
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The first step is awareness of the various types of kits that are available. The traditional model kit, often called Snap-Tite or Skill Level 1, is made of plastic and simply snaps together. Snap-Tite kits are very newbie-friendly and usually only require mild filing and light gluing to complete. Experienced hobbyists will eventually graduate to Skill 2 requiring glue and paint and to any of the more advanced Skill 3-5 kits as well as die cast models and radio-controlled vehicles.</div>
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2. Choose a Vehicle Type</h3>
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The next step is to choose the type or class of vehicle. The most popular model kit classes are classic, sports car, NASCAR, hot rod, truck, and service vehicles. Classic car models tend to focus on American muscle, but there are models available for the classics from all over the world. Skill 1 classics tend to be the most accessible kind of kits for the beginner. Hot rods are roadsters, typically open wheel, that have very distinctive aesthetics and engine mount configurations. Hot rods make great looking models, but they can be quite challenging in the building and customization stages. The most popular type of automotive model kit is the sports car model (Corvette, Austin Martin, Ferrari, etc), a class that focuses on street legal sports cars from all years and from all around the world. In the U.S., NASCAR models rival the sports car and classic car classes in overall popularity. The service vehicle class, which are intricate and challenging, includes vehicles like fire trucks, ambulances, snowplows, and so forth.<br />
And just to add to the pile, don't forget Military vehicles, aircraft and ships.<br />
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3. Select an Interesting Subject</h3>
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When choosing a particular model, collectors should opt for a subject that engages them. A Porsche 911 is very popular and a staple in most automotive model collections, but it can also be very boring due to that commonness. Rather than choosing a model based on what is already known, the collector should shop around until a model chooses them. Finding a model car that is aesthetically interesting, challenging to build but still suitable to the beginner, can be difficult, but such models are available.<br />
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4. Decide on Scale</h3>
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The next step is to choose the scale of the model. The most common model size for a car is 1:25 (and manufacturers often use 1:24 rather than 1:25), which is approximately 6 to 7 inches long. In Europe, 1:18 is also very popular. The 1:18 kits are approximately 9 inches long. There are also 1:60 scale kits, which are approximately 3 inches long and are particularly well suited to the small hands of a young child. Small kits are also popular among collectors and builders who enjoy the miniaturization aspect, but tiny kits can require a great deal of patience and fine hand control.<br />
We will discuss in a future blog about the different scales in military, ships and aircraft.<br />
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5. Evaluate the Complexity</h3>
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After choosing the model and scale, consider the complexity of the kit. The first gauge of complexity is the number of pieces in the kit. A Skill 1 kit usually has less than 50 pieces. A Skill 2 kit can have up to 200 pieces. A Skill 3-5 kit can have 200-1500 or more pieces and include many fine parts.<br />
Skill 1 kits are preferable for beginners, children, and adult builders who just want a relaxed experience. Most children can complete a Skill 1 kit with little supervision and only occasional help. Skill 2 or higher kits require additional skills, tools, and supplies. Be aware that choosing a complex model that the builder isn’t ready for can intimidate and overwhelm the builder and therefore loose interest in a very enjoyable hobby.<br />
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6. Consider Customization Options and Necessities</h3>
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An often hidden aspect of model building is the optional, and sometimes necessary, customization and personalization of the model. Automotive model kits are often labeled 2-in-1, 3-in-1, and so on; what that means is that the build process has a branch that allows for multiple finishes. For instance, many classic car kits come in a 3-in-1 configuration, which means that the collector can build it as a stock car, custom car, or race car. Many hobbyists opt to build these kits in all variants and display them alongside each other. First-time builders, however, should consider a basic kit that has no variants for simplicity.<br />
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7. Consider the Needed Tools and Supplies</h3>
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Another important consideration is tools and supplies. The beginner will require basic hobby tools, such as a hobby knife, tweezers, paint, a fine file, and modeling glue/cement. Skill 2 and higher kits, however, will require a range of hobby knives and files as well as putty, sanding paper, spur cutters and perhaps a rotary tool or other power tools. Diecast models require metalworking tools, and radio-controlled models require batteries, an electronic motor, controller, and so forth.<br />
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8. Opt for a New Automotive Model Kit</h3>
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Manufacturers produce kits in runs, which are typically time-limited. Once a run ends, the kit then becomes vintage and begins to appreciate in value. Vintage model cars sell at many times their original sticker price. For the builder, the most common reason to buy vintage is to get a particular classic car, which tend to go in and out of production. Although this will limit the hobbyist’s options, the beginner should focus on new kits in order to work with modern materials and avoid the vintage premium. (many kits are done in a re-release at milestone marks such as the 10th, 25th or 50th year anniversary of that kit or the car/piece)<br />
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9. When Buying Vintage, Price It and Haggle for It</h3>
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If the collector opts to purchase a vintage model, then they should price it first. Price guides will provide a general appraisal, and the Internet is a powerful resource to determine the actual going rate. When buying a vintage model, shop around; check online, local shops, garage sales and shows/conventions. Once found, don’t settle for the listed price, which is generally a best-case scenario for the vendor.<br />
(Be realistic in your negotiations you don't want to insult the one selling the kit in case you want to buy from them again)</div>
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10. New Builders Should Have a Contingency Plan</h3>
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New builders should have a contingency plan because first builds usually do not go according to plan. A benefit of buying a current kit is that the collector can easily purchase an additional kit from the store or replacement parts directly from the manufacturer. Some vendors sell open box kits, which may be missing parts but are a cost-effective way to have spare parts on hand.</div>
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Conclusion</h2>
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Buying a model kit for the first time can be difficult due to the sheer amount of choice available. A hobbyist’s first step should be to educate himself or herself on the various options that are available: classes, models, scales, books and other sources. Next, the beginner should choose a subject that interests them, but also one that isn’t so complex that makes it difficult to learn. With the first build under one's belt, the builder will be able to graduate to one of the more intricate kits the next time, and go into dioramas - but that's another blog......</div>
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<i><span style="color: purple; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">What did you think of this article? Please email us or comment on this post and let us know your thoughts and questions.</span></i></h2>
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<span style="font-size: xx-small;">partial <a href="http://www.ebay.com/gds/12-Tips-for-Buying-an-Automotive-Model-Kit-/10000000177633886/g.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">source </a></span></div>
Chinook Hobby Talkhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16503374280939165613noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2644495380455376274.post-71254773738129616552014-06-30T12:07:00.000-06:002014-06-30T12:07:00.462-06:00Start Sets by ScalextricThere are a few Start Sets by Scalextric. The track is a little sturdier. Some of these sets:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8dNdo1ZHIlhgIuLXDbWIoXogq0rRyJm41L1jmTQtKwnM_iN7sNcUY6aSZBaV_RoXcD3nC_zwlOhaQD7_bMWOgayDKn2jx-h1ra2lF9K_OFgUJLK1AuKWnLBZ5-rigjVm03li9nr5PVEA/s1600/802-1287+START+RALLY+CHAMPIONS+Chinook+Hobby+West.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8dNdo1ZHIlhgIuLXDbWIoXogq0rRyJm41L1jmTQtKwnM_iN7sNcUY6aSZBaV_RoXcD3nC_zwlOhaQD7_bMWOgayDKn2jx-h1ra2lF9K_OFgUJLK1AuKWnLBZ5-rigjVm03li9nr5PVEA/s1600/802-1287+START+RALLY+CHAMPIONS+Chinook+Hobby+West.jpg" height="221" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3ci0NvgmcX1GGJSqSgkiysSVrgGHphW0ndU-YR3x-OM7I_CUoC99JcVCweLjDiMzxxtlUKhGkXCW3AInx6jGcmyDuktveA_NLfwo04i9iy9naCk_XELyyNoaip_6IlY6AShfaFI1gpB4/s1600/802-1303+START+GT+POWER+Chinook+Hobby+West.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3ci0NvgmcX1GGJSqSgkiysSVrgGHphW0ndU-YR3x-OM7I_CUoC99JcVCweLjDiMzxxtlUKhGkXCW3AInx6jGcmyDuktveA_NLfwo04i9iy9naCk_XELyyNoaip_6IlY6AShfaFI1gpB4/s1600/802-1303+START+GT+POWER+Chinook+Hobby+West.jpg" height="245" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3b6T07JCGw4-4kL1PlZ0ix7MmEjvNNpvG8AaNz81nFNWtJO7OYpeId-yuLZswULuz0OAgZjoXAS8RoMHkOITG8tV1ri00yQ6dGm6zXIAl8Kh32y2R69VVZpQjDspzxyKmMuZU8zacAEk/s1600/802-1286++START+GRID+24+Chinook+Hobby+West.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3b6T07JCGw4-4kL1PlZ0ix7MmEjvNNpvG8AaNz81nFNWtJO7OYpeId-yuLZswULuz0OAgZjoXAS8RoMHkOITG8tV1ri00yQ6dGm6zXIAl8Kh32y2R69VVZpQjDspzxyKmMuZU8zacAEk/s1600/802-1286++START+GRID+24+Chinook+Hobby+West.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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What else makes them neat?<br />
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All you need to get started</h5>
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This sets includes everything you need to get started, including skill level hand throttles – twist the dial on the side for the novice setting so that cars won't come off the track, or set it to advanced for more realistic skill-based racing. Also included are track, a lap counter, and two racers.</div>
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Fun, flexible, and realistic</h5>
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A lap counter is included in this set so that two drivers can set up to 50 laps of endurance racing. Each hand controller has a two-position selector switch which allows the driver to choose slow or fast speed settings to reflect the driver's experience.</div>
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The Scalextric Start track has a very easy push-together, pull-apart system which keeps assembly time down to a minimum. There are four alternative track shapes to make, and the vehicles are tough and robust. A sheet of decals is supplied with each car so that the car can be decorated with racing graphics.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 11px;">Adjust the difficulty for different skill levels.</span></td></tr>
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Why choose Scalextric Start?</h5>
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The Scalextric Start range is designed to be the perfect introduction to Scalextric for children aged 5 years and up, featuring parts designed specifically for younger racers. The track pieces are especially easy to connect and disconnect, making for easier assembly and tidying away. Each set includes super tough cars built to take a tumble, and they need not whiz off the track at all thanks to the optional novice setting on the hand throttles. Scalextric Start is also compatible with standard Scalextric products.</div>
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Scalextric Start provides everything for the rookie racer in a ready-to-race package. Accelerate into the world of 1:32 scale slot racing; available in a selection of ready-to-race sets, Scalextric Start provides everything for the rookie racer!</div>
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With so many choices, you can really have an interesting layout and remember it can be expanded on with any number of accessories and of course, more track.</div>
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We hope you enjoyed this blog post. Please comment and let us know what you think. Feel free to share this article with a friend!</div>
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<b><i><span style="color: blue;">Thanks, from all the guys at Chinook & Hobby West</span></i></b></div>
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<a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/Scalextric-Start-C1286-Grid-24/dp/B006ZVJF3G#productDetails" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><i>partial source</i></span></a></div>
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<br />Chinook Hobby Talkhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16503374280939165613noreply@blogger.com05011 Macleod Trail Southwest, Calgary, AB T2H, Canada51.0092067 -114.0677271999999825.4871722 -155.37632119999998 76.5312412 -72.75913319999998tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2644495380455376274.post-27460218256672071552014-06-23T10:27:00.001-06:002014-06-23T10:27:31.861-06:00Building A Road<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Liberation Sans, FreeSans, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-size: 14px; line-height: 21px;"><b>Would you like to include a road or sidewalk on your layout or diorama? We have great kits for beginners to experts that give great finished looks.</b></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="color: #545454; font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Liberation Sans, FreeSans, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-size: 14px; line-height: 21px;">We know we have a kit that's ideal for you! Make sure to come down and see us for more info and techniques.</span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Liberation Sans, FreeSans, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 14px; line-height: 21px;">Our first kit is for Beginners or great for school projects:</span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, 'Liberation Sans', FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 21px;"> the Woodland Scenics Road Kit for building roads and sidewalks on our layouts and dioramas. Its easy, fast, a good price and looks great when finished!</span><br />
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Woodland Scenics has also released a great video to demonstrate just how easy this kit is to use:<br />
<a href="http://youtu.be/96pMjJc6mMk" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Click Here to view</a><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, 'Liberation Sans', FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 21px;">Our other kit is for Intermediate to expert:</span><br />
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Road System Learning Kit</h1>
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LK952</h4>
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Modelers learn to easily add roads and other paved areas to any layout. The kit contains illustrated instructions and enough of the following products to build a roadway approximately 3" x 4' (7.62 cm x 121 cm): Smooth-It™, Paving Tape™ and Spreader, Asphalt Top Coat™ and the Top Coat applicator.</div>
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Here is another great video to help you bring this Road System kit to life for you:<br />
<a href="http://youtu.be/MryNS6Jgsv8" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Click Here to view</a><br />
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Are you looking to add more realism to your road? Check these out!<br />
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Paving Tape™</h1>
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ST1455</h4>
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Use this adhesive-backed foam tape to create straight-edged forms for paving, even on curves. Use to model streets, roads, sidewalks and parking lots. Easy to apply and remove. Includes Spreader. Roll 1/4" w x 1/16" h x 30' l (6 mm x 1.5 mm x 9.14 m) makes a road approximately 15 feet long (4.57 m).</div>
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Top Coat™ Concrete</h1>
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ST1454</h4>
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Top Coat Concrete is a non-toxic, water-soluble compound used to simulate the color of concrete road surfaces. Brush-on application. 4 fl oz (118 mL)<br />One bottle will cover approximately 9 to 12 square feet.</div>
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Top Coat™ Asphalt</h1>
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ST1453</h4>
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Top Coat Asphalt is a non-toxic, water-soluble compound used to simulate the color of blacktop road surfaces. Brush-on application. 4 fl oz (118 mL)<br />One bottle will cover approximately 9 to 12 square feet.</div>
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Smooth-It™ (1 qt.)</h1>
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ST1452</h4>
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Smooth-It is a plaster material that is used to smooth rough spots, create streets, roads and parking lots. Mix with water and apply directly to any clean hard surface. Covers 26' by 3" by 1/4" (HO Scale - two-lane highway).</div>
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Road Striping Pen - Yellow</h1>
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C1292</h4>
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Easily stripe roads, parking lots, crosswalks and other paved areas. Road Striping Pens make precise and opaque, realistic markings and dries quickly. Works for scales N through O. Use with Flexi Edge™ to create accurately scaled stripes and lines. 1/pkg and includes extra tip.</div>
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<a href="http://youtu.be/W3XlJWzvSVM" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Click Here for Video</a></div>
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Road Stripe Remover</h1>
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C1293</h4>
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Use with Road Striping Pen - White and Road Striping Pen - Yellow to correct striping errors easily. Removes paint from Top Coat™ painted surfaces, leaving no residue. 1/pkg</div>
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The Scenery Manual</h1>
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C1207</h4>
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The most popular and comprehensive scenery manual available. Anyone can make beautiful, realistic scenery, and this manual will show you how. The spiral-bound Scenery Manual is loaded with various tips, techniques, ideas and instructions for using more than Woodland Scenics products to model realistic scenery. 170 pages contains hundreds of full-color photos and illustrations. Includes a 22 page addendum featuring the new terrain products.</div>
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Thanks for checking out our blog, we hope you enjoyed this article. Please leave a comment and let us know if this article was helpful.<br />
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Happy Hobbying!<br />
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From the gang at Chinook & Hobby West<br />
403-243-1997Chinook Hobby Talkhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16503374280939165613noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2644495380455376274.post-82198445086323906512014-05-21T13:46:00.000-06:002014-05-21T13:46:58.169-06:00Frequently asked questions about Model BuildingWelcome to Chinook Hobby Talk Blog! Ready to learn something?<br />
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There are so many great books to get started into a hobby or to hone your techniques.<br />
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One of our fav's for Car and Truck plastic model building is:<br />
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Here are some beginner questions we get asked:<br />
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<b style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">What is a scale model?</b><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"> </span><br style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">A scale model is a miniature representation of either the real thing or a vehicle from the builder's imagination. Most scale models are made from kits, but some are made from scratch. Modelers strive to build with care so the result looks like the real thing. Careful research from books, photos, and observing the full-size subjects comes into play. Builders try to eliminate seams and create realistic paint jobs, along with adding extra details. </span><br style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><br style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><b style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">What is meant by scale?</b><br style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">The scale of a model determines its size in relation to the real thing. A model in 1/25 scale is one twenty-fifth the size of the original. In other words, it would take 25 models end-to-end to span the measurement of the actual subject. </span><br />
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<b style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">What is a vacuum-formed kit?</b><br style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Like an injection-molded kit, these are made from plastic. But vacuum-formed kit parts are heat-pressed into sheets of styrene plastic. Each part must be cut from the sheet, the edges of the parts must be sanded, and a few other special steps must be introduced to the building process to get these kits together. A vacuum-formed kit can be assembled with plastic cements, superglues, or epoxies. They usually are not for beginners, but often may be the only kits available of certain subjects. You should have a couple of years of experience with injection-molded kits before trying one of these. Vacuum-formed kits are generally manufactured and sold by small aftermarket companies. </span><br style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><br style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><b style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">What is a resin kit?</b><br style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Instead of being molded with hot plastic as injection-molded and vacuum-formed kits are, resin kits are made from liquid resins poured into silicone rubber molds. The liquid resin sets after a few minutes, and the molds are separated to release the parts. Resin kits usually are of subjects that are not available in injection-molded kits, and they can be expensive. You must use super glue or epoxy to build resin kits. Like vacuum-formed kits, resin kits are made and sold by aftermarket companies. </span><br />
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<b style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">What are photo-etched parts?</b><br style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">These are fine detail parts that usually are obtained as aftermarket items. Parts such as instrument panels, seat buckles, louvers, and grilles, are photographically transferred onto thin sheet metal. Areas outside the images of the parts are etched away in a chemical bath. These add-on parts take some experience to handle and install, but they can improve the look and detail level of a model. </span><br />
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<b style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">What kind of cement should I use?</b><br style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Most plastic kits can be built with tube or liquid-type plastic cements. Superglues (also known as CA for cyanoacrylate) and epoxies also can be used on plastic kits, and will work with other materials such as resin, metal, and wood. </span><br style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><br style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><b style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">How can I use superglue on my models?</b><br style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Superglue can be used to put kits together, and gap-filling superglues (thick formulas) can be used to fill seams and depressions. Cured superglue can be sanded and polished just like plastic. </span><br style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><br style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><b style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Are there kits for people just starting out in modeling?</b><br style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Yes. Dozens of simple kits have parts that snap together. You won't need glue to assemble them, and you may not need to paint them, either. You can move on to more complex kits after you get your feet wet. </span><br style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><br style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><b style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">What kind of paints should I use on a scale model?</b><br style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Several brands are available, usually in hobby shops. Enamels are oil-based paints and they require paint thinner to thin and clean up. Enamels are easy to apply and come in a wide assortment of colors. Enamels also are available in spray cans, many matching bottled paints in the same line. Water-based acrylic hobby paints are becoming more popular. They are more difficult to airbrush, but they are less toxic than enamels. Most acrylics are thinned and clean up with water. Automotive lacquers, such as touch-up paints, are also used by many builders. Their advantage is they go on thin. These paints require the use of primer, and are very toxic, so a two-stage respirator and sufficient ventilation should be used when spraying them. </span><br style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><br style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><b style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">How does a modeler decide which scale to build?</b><br style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Some modelers prefer to work in one scale only so they can see the size relationship of their subjects. But others may not be concerned with constant scale. If there is only one kit of the subject they are looking for, then that is the model they will build. Usually, large scale models have the best detail, but the variety of subjects is limited. Automobiles usually are found in 1/24 or 1/25 scales. There are some kits in 1/12, 1/16, and 1/20, and 1/43 offers a wide variety of kits and finished models. </span><br />
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<b style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">What is stretched sprue?</b><br style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">The material that the parts of a plastic kit are attached to is called sprue. Modelers occasionally use this raw material to produce new parts for their models. For example, by heating the sprue over a candle flame, it can be stretched as thin as hair or bent to produce other shapes. Stretched sprue often is used to represent antennas. </span><br style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><br style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><b style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">What are pin marks and mold seams?</b><br style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">During the injection-molding process, certain blemishes appear on the parts. Ejector pins that push the parts from the mold often leave small circular marks on the part. Mold seams sometimes are visible too. They appear as small raised lines along the line where the halves of the mold separate. Modelers try to eliminate these blemishes on their models with filler and sandpaper. </span><br style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><br style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><b style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">What is detailing?</b><br style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Modelers often add details to their models that are not provided in the kits. Some details, such as improved instruments, seats, seat belts, antennas, engine accessories, and decals, are available as aftermarket items, but some modelers make their own improvements. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><b><span style="color: #990000;">Of course there have been many more questions and we are open to answering yours too! Drop us an email with your questions to <a href="mailto:hobbywest@shaw.ca">hobbywest@shaw.ca</a> and we can help you.</span></b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><b><span style="color: #660000; font-size: large;">Please feel free to leave comments below!</span></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><a href="http://www.scaleautomag.com/en/How%20to%20and%20Models/Hobby%20FAQ/2008/05/Scale%20Auto%20FAQ.aspx" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">source 1</a></span>Chinook Hobby Talkhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16503374280939165613noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2644495380455376274.post-11943561910757309822014-01-27T15:00:00.000-07:002014-01-27T15:00:01.749-07:00Model Tips for Beginners - Part 2Previously we did a Blog on <span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif;"><a href="http://chinookhobbytalk.blogspot.ca/2012/02/basic-tips-for-model-building.html" target="_blank">Basic Tips For Model Building</a> </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">for beginners that takes you step by step through some basic steps on building a model kit. </span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">The following are some questions that some of you, our customers, have asked either through email, social media or here at our store. If we haven't answered your question, please send us an <a href="mailto:hobbywest@shaw.ca" target="_blank">email</a> or come down and see us here at Chinook & Hobby West!</span></span><br />
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Make sure to check out Part 1 from last week:<br />
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<li><a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=2644495380455376274" name="paint" style="font-family: arial, helvetica, verdana, sans-serif; margin: 0px;"><span style="color: red; font-size: x-small; margin: 0px;">Removing parts from frames (also known as runners or sprues)</span></a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=2644495380455376274" name="decals" style="font-family: arial, helvetica, verdana, sans-serif; margin: 0px;"><span style="color: red; font-size: x-small; margin: 0px;">Removing Decals for beginners</span></a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=2644495380455376274" name="cs" style="color: #1166aa; font-family: arial, helvetica, verdana, sans-serif; margin: 0px;"><span style="color: red; font-size: x-small; margin: 0px;">What type of glue or cement should I use?</span></a></li>
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<b style="margin: 0px;">What type of paint is best to use?</b><br style="margin: 0px;" />There are dozens of different paints sold in hobby and craft stores, hardware stores, and chain stores. We generally suggest that you try to stay with paint made specifically for plastic models. Most hobby paints will be either:</div>
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<li style="margin: 0px;">Enamel, which you will need to use paint thinner or turpentine to clean your brushes and equipment, or</li>
<li style="margin: 0px;">Acrylic, which is water based so water will clean brushes and equipment.</li>
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You must clean the unpainted plastic parts prior to painting because paint may not adhere to the parts otherwise. This will remove the oily mold release spray that is added during manufacturing. To clean, put a few drops of a liquid dish or hand soap on an old toothbrush and give the parts a quick scrubbing. Let the parts air dry.</div>
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Many modelers like to use spray paints for the largest parts of their model, such as car bodies or aircraft fuselages because sprays will provide a better finish. Usually smaller detail parts are painted with a brush using bottled paints.</div>
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Some general guidelines when using sprays are:</div>
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<li style="margin: 0px;">Use a coat of primer before spraying on your paint. Some paints may "craze" or attack the plastic surface depending on the paint's ingredients.</li>
<li style="margin: 0px;">Don't attempt to cover the part with one coat of paint. You want to spray several very light coats to build up the coverage. Paint coats that are too heavy cause runs and loss of engraved detail. Follow the directions on the can, but generally you'll want to wait 15-20 minutes between paint coats.</li>
<li style="margin: 0px;">It's best to stick with the same manufacturer for the different types of paints you use on the same model (primer, color and clear, if you use a clear coat). Putting one manufacturer's paints over another may cause them to react with each other.</li>
<li style="margin: 0px;">Let the paint dry completely before handling or trying to polish out the paint. Although it may seem dry on the surface, a good way to tell if the paint is fully cured is to hold the model up to your nose, if you can still smell the paint, it's probably not dry yet.</li>
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<b style="margin: 0px;">Why can't I find colors like fiery yellows and leafy greens in paints?</b><br style="margin: 0px;" />There are a variety of manufacturers that make an almost universal variety of paint colors that are compatible with plastic models. Testors, Tamiya, Humbrol, Floquil and Badger are just some of the companies you may want to check out. Rust-O-Leum is also safe because it is fish oil based, but always test first to be sure.</div>
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Don't be afraid to look in military, automotive, marine or any other category for paint. It's the color that counts, not the name on the bottle.</div>
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<b style="margin: 0px;">How can I fix a mistake in my paint job?</b><br style="margin: 0px;" />Your model should be quite salvageable. First thing, do NOT use sandpaper. There are a number of products that will remove most paints from styrene plastic safely. We recommend using products made specifically for this purpose, such as Scale Coat or Easy Lift Off by Floquil. Once you have stripped the paint from your model, wash and dry it thoroughly and re-prime. You should be good to go!</div>
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<b style="margin: 0px;">Why do I sometimes get bubbles in my paint?</b><br style="margin: 0px;" />There are a number of possibilities that could cause bubbles in your paint, but one of the most common is residual mold release left from the manufacturing process. Before painting any model, wash it with dish soap and dry thoroughly. Be sure to prime your model before painting so any imperfections may be resolved before applying your finish coat.</div>
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<b style="margin: 0px;">Is it better to paint the model before or after it's built?</b><br style="margin: 0px;" />Generally, you will have better results by painting your model before assembling it. An exception is to first glue together small parts of an assembly if they will all be the same color and painting it as a unit.</div>
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<a href="" name="decals" style="color: #1166aa; margin: 0px;"><span style="color: red; margin: 0px;">Decals: Types & Application</span></a></h3>
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<b style="margin: 0px;">How do I apply decals?</b><br style="margin: 0px;" />Revell SnapTite® (Skill Level 1) kits contain "Peel 'n Stick" self-adhesive decals that are applied by simply peeling the image from the paper backing and applying to the model. Kits that require glue (Skill Levels 2 & 3) have traditional waterslide decals.</div>
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To apply a waterslide decal:</div>
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<li style="margin: 0px;">Cut apart the individual images from the sheet.</li>
<li style="margin: 0px;">Dip the decal into lukewarm water for 1 or 2 minutes. Take the decal from the water and see if the image will move or slide on the paper backing. If not, return to the water for a few more seconds.</li>
<li style="margin: 0px;">Once the decal will slide on the backing, put the decal and backing on a paper towel for a few seconds to remove the excess water.</li>
<li style="margin: 0px;">Then bring the decal up to where on the model you want to apply it and slide the image from the paper backing onto the model. While wet, you can still move the image on the model a bit to position it just where you want it. If there are any air bubbles under the decal, gently push the bubble toward one of the edges of the decal with a wet Q-tip or edge of a paper towel to remove it.</li>
<li style="margin: 0px;">When the decal is in position, simply leave it air dry and it will stay in place.</li>
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Many hobby shops will sell various decal setting solutions that will help the decal conform to sharply curved surfaces. We suggest trying out the specific solution you wish to use on an unused decal from the same sheet applied to a piece of scrap plastic to make sure the solution will not react with the decal. If you wish to spray a clear coat over your decals, the clear paint you intend on using should be tested first using the same method.</div>
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<b style="margin: 0px;">I am a first-time model maker and am having difficulty removing the decals from the page to apply to model. Do you have any suggestions for application?</b><br style="margin: 0px;" />Decals should be dipped in lukewarm water for only a moment and then set on a paper towel to let the water soak in and dissolve the adhesive that holds the decal on the paper. The decal will curl up, and then unroll after a short time. At this point the decals should be able to be moved around on the backing paper and slid into location on the model. Once in place they can be dabbed with the tip of a paper towel or tissue to soak up excessive water.</div>
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<b style="margin: 0px;">My model requires that I put the gas cap on before the decals. How are you supposed to fit the decals over the gas cap?</b><br style="margin: 0px;" />The best way to do it would be to apply the decals first, and then with a sharp hobby knife make an "X" pattern hole in the decal and then install the gas cap.</div>
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<b>For a tutorial on putting on very small decals <a href="http://www.gundammodelkits.com/gundam-modeling-tutorial-how-to-use-gundam-water-decals-2.html" target="_blank">Click Here</a></b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7jusTNplrlSzCvQEoaOZmJ4ikCvLreSUN9eaOUh1U_WZNqBoK_UroOMa3-YjkMd4jo18QWklNAbPCOQs8X9YDs9WWNV-Dlv89jREFmr4tttBx3ASM16dDXu904QRpwchDNIWTEIJ6Xjs/s1600/Micro+Set+-+Micro+Sol+Decal+look+Chinook+Hobby+West.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7jusTNplrlSzCvQEoaOZmJ4ikCvLreSUN9eaOUh1U_WZNqBoK_UroOMa3-YjkMd4jo18QWklNAbPCOQs8X9YDs9WWNV-Dlv89jREFmr4tttBx3ASM16dDXu904QRpwchDNIWTEIJ6Xjs/s1600/Micro+Set+-+Micro+Sol+Decal+look+Chinook+Hobby+West.jpg" /></a></div>
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<a href="" name="cs" style="margin: 0px;"><span style="color: red; margin: 0px;">Replacement Parts</span></a></h3>
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<b style="margin: 0px;">I bought a very old kit from a garage sale, at a swap meet, or on Ebay. Do you still have parts and decals for it?</b><br style="margin: 0px;" />Although we do our best to fulfill requests for missing parts, many of the kits available through collectors or other independent sources were released many decades ago. These kits can make wonderful collector's items, but it is unlikely that we will still have parts for them.</div>
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If this is the case, you might want to contact another collector through an online forum. Collectors will sometimes seek out multiple copies of the same kit so they can combine them and have one complete kit with some extra parts. You may be able to arrange a swap or purchase that way.</div>
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<b>We usually suggest that you try going directly to the manufacturer of the model kit.</b></div>
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<b style="background-color: white; font-family: arial, helvetica, verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; margin: 0px;">Why do models sometimes look different on the box than what's in the kit?</b><br style="background-color: white; font-family: arial, helvetica, verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; margin: 0px;" /><span style="background-color: white; font-family: arial, helvetica, verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 12px;">Although manufacturers try to make sure that the box art represents the actual model kit, in some instances there may be small variations in what is shown. Sometimes, the hand-made master model is used for the box art photo because the actual kit production hasn't been completed. Or, the producer of the actual prototype may make changes after the model tooling is committed for production. In either case, the differences will be subtle and will not affect the overall model kit subject.</span><br />
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<a href="http://www.revell.com/support/faq.html" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Source</span></a>Chinook Hobby Talkhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16503374280939165613noreply@blogger.com0