Create a Great Paint Job From Spray Cans

Have you every tried to use spray cans to paint your model only to have dripping runs or that 'orange peel' look? We've pooled together our collective knowledge to share some of our favourite tips and ideas.

There are many modelers think spray cans are amateurish and not very precise, and that the only way to build a show quality model is to use an airbrush. That's so untrue! There are a lot of good reasons to use aerosol spray paint.

Currently, there are so many excellent aerosol paints available for model builders, they all have their great qualities. Testors is the front runner with an excellent selection of both stock and custom colors in enamels, and Tamiya's lacquers have fantastic pigments. Some others (not all available at your local hobby shop) add to the huge array of commercially available paints such as Krylon, Dupli-Color, Plasti-kote, and there are more. It may sound odd, but I rarely use an airbrush!

Each of these lines are available in gloss, semigloss, and flat varieties, and can be used to vary the surfaces of flat, semigloss, and metallic paints, adding even more variety to the mix. You can use these differences to your advantage to add more visual interest to your model. 

The first thing anyone is going to notice about your model is the paint job, so read on to learn how to paint, prepare and finish that model on your hobby table.

1. Select the colours for your model kit. Also, check out your local hobby shop or bookstore for awesome reference and idea books. (Remember that for military kits flat colour are best, but if you need to use semi-gloss or gloss for the colour you like to can use a flat finish at the end to make it all uniform flat)

2. On any kit your going to need to remove the molding seams and flashing left by the molding process. These can be hard to spot on some kits, a credit to the manufacturer's attention to detail. Be certain to look closely to find the seams. Sand the large body pieces a bit with 400-grit sandpaper and they'll be easier to spot. Make sure you remove all of the molding seams, or they'll show up through your carefully applied finish!

3. After sanding see if there are any spots that may need to be filled. There are many types of hobby putty to help you with this. 

4. Next priming - yes, this is a pain but is so worth it. This will show any imperfections you may have missed so you can sand them out. One coat is usually all you need. Make sure to hold the spray can approximately 4 to 6 inches away from your project (using light feathering motions) to get an even coat.

5. Painting Tip- you can spray  directly on the piece or create a parts holder. There are many modeling YouTube videos that can help you with this.  I usually wear a latex glove and hold the larger pieces from the inside. For small pieces I spray them directly on the sprue frames and then touch them up by hand after I cut them off. 

6.  Ready to paint? The first tip I learned as a kid and I still use today is warming up the paint so it will flow better. This is very important with thick enamel paints. Cold paint has a tendency to develop an "orange peel" texture. To warm up the paint, fill a bowl (or the bottom of a sink) with about three inches of hot water. Stand the spray can in the hot water for a few minutes before you start painting. (do not put it on a stove or in the microwave, this will explode the can; just use hot tap water)

7. After drying off the can, shake the can vigorously for a couple of minutes, apply the first mist coat of paint to the model (you'll know it's mixing as you hear the metal marble inside rattling around. If you don't hear this sound, test the paint to see if it sprays as it may be really thick or a dried out can). Do a light dusting of paint and it shouldn't cover the entire surface. Repeat this at lease 6 times. These mist coats may seem like a nuisance to apply, but they're laying the foundation for optimum coverage once the wet coats are applied. Wait approximately 20 minutes between mist coats to allow the paint to set. This gives a great look for flat finishes.

8. Only for Gloss Coats -  The next coats should be heavier, "wet" coats, in which the paint glosses up during application. The trick to applying a wet coat is simple: Apply just enough paint so that the coating is wet and glossy, but not so much that it runs or drips. Mastering the art of the wet coat takes practice, but eventually becomes very natural. Take your time with this and practice on the inside of your model kit box.

9. EXTRA TIP - If you are wanting a show quality paint job polishing may be for you. If your paint job seems a bit uneven you can polish the finish with a 3,200-grit pad (the workhorse of the bunch), it will level the surface of the paint. Please use the pad dry because it's easier to determine when the texture has been removed. Work slowly when using this coarse grit, as it can easily cut through the paint and into the primer. Note it will give the model a dull finish, a sign that all of the surface texture has been removed.  Then you can wet-sand with a 12,000-grit pad, creating a nice luster to the paint's surface. 

10. If you don't wish to go through all the sanding polish can be applied by dabbing a small amount on a piece of flannel cloth and rubbing it into the surface of the paint using circular strokes. Afterward, the excess polish should be buffed off with a clean portion of the flannel cloth. 

11. To finish, I like using a clear coat spray. The finish depends on your project and if you want a flat, semi-gloss, gloss or high gloss look.  If you choose to apply clear gloss over a  color finish, be careful when you apply it. You have two choices: you can add the clear coat immediately after applying the last wet color coat, or you can apply the clear coat after the color coat has cured for at least a week or two. Some brands of clear gloss paint cure at a different rates than the color paints in the line. If you wait even a day to apply the clear gloss, the different curing rates may cause the clear finish to crack. 

So there you have it.  What did you think?  Please leave a comment to let us know your tips and ideas so others can get inspired in this fantastic hobby!

Thanks for reading and Happy Hobbying!


Please remember these are our opinions on what has worked for us and we are not responsible for anyone's projects that have been damaged or unsuccessful using these ideas.

More Rocketry Tips for Beginners

If you're thinking about the Rocket hobby, just getting into it, or need a refresher these tips will be a great help. If you're in the Calgary area you can join the Calgary Rocket Association. Click Here for their website.

Please keep in mind:  
Model rockets are not toys - you can't simply plug them in and turn them on expecting them to work. They can be dangerous if not handled properly and taken seriously. They are miniature real rockets and a number of things need to work perfectly and come together at the right time to ensure a proper launch. 
Note unless otherwise stated references are to Quest or Estes model rockets (as opposed to Advanced, High Power or Amateur rockets and these tips are only our opinion through experience and research). 

Your Rocket

Don't use double sided tape or self-adhesive tape to attach shroud lines to the canopy or streamer. These can clog the body tube and will eventually lose their stickiness. Instead use paper reinforcing rings. Glue them on your recovery device, puncture though the centre hole, thread the shroud lines through the hole and tie onto the canopy with a double knot. Pull the lines firmly to make sure they won't come off when the recovery device deploys.

Using a permanent marker, write contact details on your rocket to increase your chances of getting the rocket back should you lose it. 

Make sure the launch lug is strictly parallel to the body tube and there are no stickers/decals or other things that can catch or jam; in front of or behind the lug. Note a poorly aligned body tube glued to the fin unit can also cause a jam on the launch rod).

If the launch lug is molded to the plastic fin canister, make sure any 'flashing' is removed from the inside of it.
The nose cone must be an easy but snug fit into the body tube, if it’s too loose the cone may release when the rocket slows down. Use masking tape around the nose cone if it’s too loose. Hold the cone tightly in one hand and pull on the shock with the other, to ensure your knot won't fail when the recovery device deploys.

Make sure when gluing the engine mount together that excess glue doesn’t end up inside the engine mount. This will block the fitting of the motor. Wipe away any excess glue immediately. And don't forget to glue the engine mount in - yes it does happen! 

You must use wadding and it must be flameproof. Toilet paper, paper towel and tin foil will not work and will cause your rocket to burn up, explode or melt.

The Engine

Make sure the engine is the recommended letter/number combo for your model –the letter is the engine strength, the first number is how many seconds of thrust and the last number is the seconds until the shoot deploys. Check your instructions to get the recommended engine per your kit's instructions. Using the wrong engine delay will cause you a lot of grief! The engine must be a slip fit and slide easily into the engine mount. Never force the engine into the mount. Get used to checking the engine nozzle (the hole where the igniter is inserted). It will either be clay (white) or ceramic (black) - a black ceramic type nozzle signifies a European manufactured engine and will warn you that the delay time (coasting time) may be significantly longer than expected - a 3 second delay can be more like 5 seconds, a 4 second delay can be more like 6 seconds, and a 5 second delay more like 7 seconds. Adjust the angle on your launch rod upright accordingly. Taking a long walk is better than a destroyed rocket!

The Igniter

There are two types of igniter - the copperhead and the nichrome igniter. The first looks like one piece of copper with a black tip (the squib), and the second has two silver or copper wires. The nichrome igniter has less resistance than the copperhead and requires less current to fire, however it is brittle and fragile and so it is best to use masking tape across the nozzle. The squib must be touching the propellant - (the black stuff you can see inside the nozzle). Using a plug can cause the wires to come together causing a short. And that's also why you don't remove the paper tape on the nichrome igniter which keeps those wires apart! While the copperhead igniter is 'bulletproof' it requires more current to fire, so your batteries must be new and of the right voltage. 

The Launch Controller

The battery (s) you use in your launch controller are often the sole factor of whether or not you have a successful launch. You must use the proper battery(s) and they must be new batteries. Lithium and alkaline batteries, which together have a voltage rating of at least 6v-9v, are the only batteries suitable for model rocket launch controllers. Lithium batteries are the best, rechargeable batteries can give you a lot of grief, so don't use them.

Insulating one jaw of each alligator clip (with masking tape) is recommended. 'Flip' each alligator clip when attaching to the igniter so that one uninsulated jaw is touching one side of the igniter and the other uninsulated jaw touches the other side. Lightly sand your safety key and always keep it clean.

The Launch Pad

Pin down your launch pad with tent pegs, especially on a windy day. Also, make sure the launch rod is a tight fit in its mounting hole where it fits into the base of the launcher. If using a two piece rod, the two pieces must be a tight fit into each other and have no kinks. You don't want your rocket taking the launch rod with it, when it lifts off! Sand the rod lightly before launch and coat it with a thin layer of petroleum jelly (Vaseline). Always use the 'stand off'' which ensures igniter clips do not touch the jet deflector plate and cause a 'short'. If you lose the 'stand off'' use a burnt out engine instead. Test fit your rocket on the rod to ensure it slides freely - very important Make sure the rod safety cap is replaced on the rod after each launch.

Upgrade Tip your two piece rod can be replaced by one piece rod, .9 m to 1 m long, 3 mm in diameter. Stainless steel rod is best, however piano wire from a hobby shop will do the job.

Ready to Launch

The launch circuitry can be tested by installing the igniter, battery, and safety key (not on all launch systems), and momentarily pressing the launch button. The igniter should glow red hot. Release the launch button immediately as the igniter begins to glow, otherwise it will soon melt and have to be discarded.
When the rocket is seated on the igniter make sure it’s fully inserted and centered in the nozzle of the rocket engine. Just remove the launch rod, seat the rocket correctly on the igniter and then carefully re-instal the launch rod. Note due to the differing weight and aerodynamic shape of each of the rocket, not all models will achieve the expected altitudes and some may surpass it. Rockets with AT, A and B letters in the engines are great for beginners and first  launches, larger engine sizes such a C and D should be only used by intermediate to expert and a license/permit is required for any engines larger than E.

Looking for more help and great tips? Check out our other Rocketry posts!

4 Tips to Flying Model Rockets- use/copy the engine chart 

Rocketry Tips- Recovery Wadding, Why Do I Need It? - 

Next week: Car model tips!

Chinook & Hobby West

"Where the Fun Begins!"

ph: 403-243-1997

email: hobbywest@shaw.ca

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ChinookAndHobbyWest

Twitter: @HobbyAndToy

Pinterest:https://www.pinterest.com/hobbymum

Welcome to Model Railroading - Part 1

Welcome to Model Railroading - 

Model railroading is a fascinating hobby and has been dubbed by many as the “World’s Greatest Hobby”.   It is very versatile and incorporates many learning opportunities and is so fun for all ages. It includes creativity with sculpturing, painting, airbrushing, decorating and landscaping, and encourages scientific exploration of electronics, physics, mechanics, engineering and architecture, all combined with humor, friendship, family activities, social interaction, and the great sense of accomplishment.

Things to consider before starting:

• Space – plan out how big your layout can be, within the room you have available. Keep in mind that you need to get to all points that has track. So you may want to consider a U shape or a hole in the middle that you can get to any track should you need to.
• Scale- this goes with the Space point. If you have outdoor space, you may want to model in G or O, in a small to large room HO, or for a really small space N. There are other scales too.
• Budget- plan to spend on the materials for the table, base, roadbed and track first. Then some model train pieces, buildings and landscaping. This will also prevent you from getting overwhelmed with too much to do.
• Tips- if you are interested in using long flat bed cars, passenger cars or other long cars you need to make allowance for large radius curves or they will derail. Come and visit us for great beginner guidebooks and guidance in planning.

Model trains come in various scales (gauges):

Ø  Z 1:220 (with all the letters identifying gauges Z became the smallest so they used the last letter in the alphabet)

Ø  N  (rails are Nine mm apart- hence the N) 1:160 **

Ø  HO  (Half O or ‘aitch oh’) 1:87  **

Ø  OO  - 1:76 runs on HO track and is the British version of HO

Ø  S   scale 1:64

Ø  O   (was referred as zero (or 0h) gauge) 1:48**

Ø  G (Garden) 1:20.3 to 1:32

Ø  There are many more gauges, although they are important to die-hard railroaders, we will not be listing them here.  You can ask Rob, or Robby about those.

Gauge refers to the width of the track, measured between the railheads.  Different from scale, which is proportion to life-size.

At present, Chinook & Hobby West carries three Scales of Model Trains for Sale:  

**O scale, HO Scale, and N scale.   Any other scales that come in collections, we put on our ebay site.  Our eBay handle is gossamer13


Next week: Learn about different track, buildings, painting and more!

Chinook & Hobby West
"Where the Fun Begins!"
ph: 403-243-1997
email: hobbywest@shaw.ca
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ChinookAndHobbyWest
Twitter: @HobbyAndToy
Pinterest:https://www.pinterest.com/hobbymum

An Interview with Model Train enthusiast: Robin Cain

An Interview with Model Train enthusiast: Robin Cain 

Robin: I saw your Facebook request for photos of hobbies people are working on.  I thought you would like to check these out.

 

Chinook: Fantastic! Did you customize/paint it yourself? Tell me about this piece and why it's so special. 

Robin: It's an SD45 I made about 3 years ago...yes I did everything to it.  Athearn BLUE box

Chinook:  Is there anything else you would like to share about this SD45? 

Robin:   (thumbs up) ATHEARN BLUE BOX DC POWERED pepped up a little bit... Jewel marker lights, air hoses, grab irons, fire cracker antenna, rotating yellow Beacon, installed handrails, roof hooks, extra decaling on steps & body, custom painted & numbered number boards, center air hoses, box behind cab near turbocharger cover, custom painted & decalled.... Here's more pictures

Got it at a YARD sale for a dollar, it was a SANTA FE originally. Started off as a dummy. Recently was upgraded to a powered unit.

Chinook:  Why did you choose this loco to customize or paint?

Robin:  I was a hobo in the late 70's and rode a lot of FRISCO trains. The FRISCO SD45's was one of the giant purring kittens I slept in sometimes at night in different yards...lots of engineer's & trainmen knew me...I had a blast...miss it

Chinook:  a hobo? Where you checking out North America or just the US or just Canada?

Robin:  USA, NORTH AMERICA

Chinook:   Was it undecorated when you started? or did you strip it and repaint it? or did you do weathering and adding some things to a pre-painted loco?

Robin:  .it was a freight paint job for SANTA FE, only washed it with warm water & blue dawn, I primed it grey, painted it white, taped over white areas & put the orange to it with a badger spray unit, I altered the orange & added red, gloss colors of course.

Chinook:  How many build hours did it take you to do the work you did on it?

Robin:          13 hours to do units spread out over a month...I paint a tremendous amount of trains

Chinook:    How long have you been a model railroader and how long have you been painting/customizing your own pieces?

Robin:   I am 57, I have been a model railroader for 53 years...I been painting my own pieces since I was 10. I model the SEABOARD COAST LINE RAILROAD between AUGUSTA, GEORGIA & GREENWOOD, SOUTH CAROLINA. Just finished these BRIDGES built out of yard sticks & paint sticks

Chinook:    Do you have a designated hobby area?

Robin:  Oh yes! My layout! And my creator’s table.

Chinook:   What is your next project?

Robin:  My next project is to paint 10 SD45's.  6 BLACK...SCL 3 ROCK ISLAND BLUE 1 ROCK ISLAND RED

Chinook:   What city and state/province do you live in? Are you married? Do you share your hobby with your kids/grandkids?

Robin:  ONEONTA, ALABAMA.  My kids thinks I'm crazy because I tell them stories about people I've met honking and who I've played drums for.  I have a kids ministry. I give train's away to kids year round.  I am a train vendor, non-profit status.

I'm a little different than most people...LOL...child of the 60's & 70"s

Chinook:  Thanks so much for taking some time out of your busy day and answering these questions.

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If you liked this blog post, please leave a comment below and subscribe to our blog, Chinook Hobby Talk. Let us know what you would like to see more of in the future: Interviews with hobbyists? Product testing reviews? Maintenance? Q & A’s?

Please let us know!

Thanks and Happy Hobbying!

Val, Chinook & Hobby West

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A Day At the Alberta Railway Museum - Part 1

July 1st, 2015 we had a chance to visit the Alberta Railway Museum. First we went through the open air museum, then we got a special behind the scenes tour.  So on behalf of Chinook & Hobby West, the Gale family and of course, the Alberta Railway Museum - enjoy!

What's greeting you at the beginning?

CP  GP30 - 1 of only 2 that CP owned this one is just a husk and very cool to see one live and not just in photos

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Once we got into the park No. 73 was waiting to greet us. It's a NAR 2-8-0 Consolidation: missing a drive gear, but impressive sitting at the front of a boom car and bay window caboose.

                                           --------------------------------------------

The next on our tour was the NAR (Northern Alberta Railway) 40' Flanger (Val's fav).  #16601 built in 1914 by National Steel Car Company in Hamilton, ON.

                                        ---------------------------------------------------

The NAR Cook Car #17062. Built in 1917 - this 40' wood sheathed cook car was originally built as a box car and was converted in 1944 to a kitchen car.

                                         ---------------------------------------------------

Then we were distracted by  CN #9000 - Canadian Nationals very first F-3 delivered in 1948. For Canada Day it sported Canadian flags. It was the first run of the season. Followed by coaches that were in service until  1975. They're light weight coaches used for daytime commuters, back East.

On this run the conductor was Hans Huzinga. It was fascinating listening to all the history of the park and the different trains that he was sharing with us all.

The engineer was Graham Wood. He worked for CN as an engineer before retiring and volunteering to help run the #9000 at the Alberta Railway Museum.

The tail end brakeman for the day was Joel Mullan. He was great with the kids, encouraging them to come and try the whistle that was at the back of the car.

The ride itself takes you back and forth along a shortline. Graham, the engineer, made sure we had a smooth ride with no jolts, hesitations or bumps. He said 'the Old Lady needs to be treated gently so everyone can have a fun ride'.

On our short trip we pass by an old set of trucks and some prime movers that were donated to the museum by Northern Alberta Railway and Western CNR.

Our conductor shared how this shortline connected to the main line that was once used for runs to Lac La Biche.

As Hans shares all his wealth of knowledge the whistle blows twice.  Then as the train comes to a stop and then smoothly shifts to traveling in reverse, the whistle then blows three times.  Hans lets us know that when the train travels forward on a main line it blasts its whistle twice.  If it travels in reverse, that's three blasts.

After the train ride ends, we pull into the St. Albert station that houses a fun gift shop and the telegraph office which leads into a mini museum of the history of the telegraph.  Both are a must see before you leave this great museum.

After a couple of hours taking our time through all the wonderful pieces - all with differing degrees of restoration; we were given a behind the scenes look in the car sheds and engine shops.

But that's for next week.........

Come back and check out our next post and feel free to comment on this one.  Share thoughts, memories or what you may want to see.


Val & Rob

Start Sets by Scalextric

There are a few Start Sets by Scalextric. The track is a little sturdier. Some of these sets:

What else makes them neat?

All you need to get started

This sets includes everything you need to get started, including skill level hand throttles – twist the dial on the side for the novice setting so that cars won't come off the track, or set it to advanced for more realistic skill-based racing. Also included are track, a lap counter, and two  racers.

Fun, flexible, and realistic

A lap counter is included in this set so that two drivers can set up to 50 laps of endurance racing. Each hand controller has a two-position selector switch which allows the driver to choose slow or fast speed settings to reflect the driver's experience.

The Scalextric Start track has a very easy push-together, pull-apart system which keeps assembly time down to a minimum. There are four alternative track shapes to make, and the vehicles are tough and robust. A sheet of decals is supplied with each car so that the car can be decorated with racing graphics.

Adjust the difficulty for different skill levels.

Why choose Scalextric Start?

The Scalextric Start range is designed to be the perfect introduction to Scalextric for children aged 5 years and up, featuring parts designed specifically for younger racers. The track pieces are especially easy to connect and disconnect, making for easier assembly and tidying away. Each set includes super tough cars built to take a tumble, and they need not whiz off the track at all thanks to the optional novice setting on the hand throttles. Scalextric Start is also compatible with standard Scalextric products.

Scalextric Start provides everything for the rookie racer in a ready-to-race package. Accelerate into the world of 1:32 scale slot racing; available in a selection of ready-to-race sets, Scalextric Start provides everything for the rookie racer!

With so many choices, you can really have an interesting layout and remember it can be expanded on with any number of accessories and of course, more track.

We hope you enjoyed this blog post.  Please comment and let us know what you think.  Feel free to share this article with a friend!

Thanks, from all the guys at Chinook & Hobby West

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