Create a Great Paint Job From Spray Cans

Have you every tried to use spray cans to paint your model only to have dripping runs or that 'orange peel' look? We've pooled together our collective knowledge to share some of our favourite tips and ideas.

There are many modelers think spray cans are amateurish and not very precise, and that the only way to build a show quality model is to use an airbrush. That's so untrue! There are a lot of good reasons to use aerosol spray paint.

Currently, there are so many excellent aerosol paints available for model builders, they all have their great qualities. Testors is the front runner with an excellent selection of both stock and custom colors in enamels, and Tamiya's lacquers have fantastic pigments. Some others (not all available at your local hobby shop) add to the huge array of commercially available paints such as Krylon, Dupli-Color, Plasti-kote, and there are more. It may sound odd, but I rarely use an airbrush!

Each of these lines are available in gloss, semigloss, and flat varieties, and can be used to vary the surfaces of flat, semigloss, and metallic paints, adding even more variety to the mix. You can use these differences to your advantage to add more visual interest to your model. 

The first thing anyone is going to notice about your model is the paint job, so read on to learn how to paint, prepare and finish that model on your hobby table.

1. Select the colours for your model kit. Also, check out your local hobby shop or bookstore for awesome reference and idea books. (Remember that for military kits flat colour are best, but if you need to use semi-gloss or gloss for the colour you like to can use a flat finish at the end to make it all uniform flat)

2. On any kit your going to need to remove the molding seams and flashing left by the molding process. These can be hard to spot on some kits, a credit to the manufacturer's attention to detail. Be certain to look closely to find the seams. Sand the large body pieces a bit with 400-grit sandpaper and they'll be easier to spot. Make sure you remove all of the molding seams, or they'll show up through your carefully applied finish!

3. After sanding see if there are any spots that may need to be filled. There are many types of hobby putty to help you with this. 

4. Next priming - yes, this is a pain but is so worth it. This will show any imperfections you may have missed so you can sand them out. One coat is usually all you need. Make sure to hold the spray can approximately 4 to 6 inches away from your project (using light feathering motions) to get an even coat.

5. Painting Tip- you can spray  directly on the piece or create a parts holder. There are many modeling YouTube videos that can help you with this.  I usually wear a latex glove and hold the larger pieces from the inside. For small pieces I spray them directly on the sprue frames and then touch them up by hand after I cut them off. 

6.  Ready to paint? The first tip I learned as a kid and I still use today is warming up the paint so it will flow better. This is very important with thick enamel paints. Cold paint has a tendency to develop an "orange peel" texture. To warm up the paint, fill a bowl (or the bottom of a sink) with about three inches of hot water. Stand the spray can in the hot water for a few minutes before you start painting. (do not put it on a stove or in the microwave, this will explode the can; just use hot tap water)

7. After drying off the can, shake the can vigorously for a couple of minutes, apply the first mist coat of paint to the model (you'll know it's mixing as you hear the metal marble inside rattling around. If you don't hear this sound, test the paint to see if it sprays as it may be really thick or a dried out can). Do a light dusting of paint and it shouldn't cover the entire surface. Repeat this at lease 6 times. These mist coats may seem like a nuisance to apply, but they're laying the foundation for optimum coverage once the wet coats are applied. Wait approximately 20 minutes between mist coats to allow the paint to set. This gives a great look for flat finishes.

8. Only for Gloss Coats -  The next coats should be heavier, "wet" coats, in which the paint glosses up during application. The trick to applying a wet coat is simple: Apply just enough paint so that the coating is wet and glossy, but not so much that it runs or drips. Mastering the art of the wet coat takes practice, but eventually becomes very natural. Take your time with this and practice on the inside of your model kit box.

9. EXTRA TIP - If you are wanting a show quality paint job polishing may be for you. If your paint job seems a bit uneven you can polish the finish with a 3,200-grit pad (the workhorse of the bunch), it will level the surface of the paint. Please use the pad dry because it's easier to determine when the texture has been removed. Work slowly when using this coarse grit, as it can easily cut through the paint and into the primer. Note it will give the model a dull finish, a sign that all of the surface texture has been removed.  Then you can wet-sand with a 12,000-grit pad, creating a nice luster to the paint's surface. 

10. If you don't wish to go through all the sanding polish can be applied by dabbing a small amount on a piece of flannel cloth and rubbing it into the surface of the paint using circular strokes. Afterward, the excess polish should be buffed off with a clean portion of the flannel cloth. 

11. To finish, I like using a clear coat spray. The finish depends on your project and if you want a flat, semi-gloss, gloss or high gloss look.  If you choose to apply clear gloss over a  color finish, be careful when you apply it. You have two choices: you can add the clear coat immediately after applying the last wet color coat, or you can apply the clear coat after the color coat has cured for at least a week or two. Some brands of clear gloss paint cure at a different rates than the color paints in the line. If you wait even a day to apply the clear gloss, the different curing rates may cause the clear finish to crack. 

So there you have it.  What did you think?  Please leave a comment to let us know your tips and ideas so others can get inspired in this fantastic hobby!

Thanks for reading and Happy Hobbying!


Please remember these are our opinions on what has worked for us and we are not responsible for anyone's projects that have been damaged or unsuccessful using these ideas.

Basic Airbrush Maintenance and Cleaning- Q & A

Many different experience levels come and visit us here at Chinook & Hobby West to talk about Airbrushing. We also get many questions regarding Airbrushes through our social medias and by email.

We carry Paasche, Iwata and Badger currently and yes, we do promote these items. We also have general information to help all Airbrush users.

The following are some of your questions and answers we have researched for you.  If you still have questions, please email us at hobbywest@shaw.ca.



Q: Why should I use SuperLube?
A: When you’re using a substance to lubricate your airbrush needle (or trigger) you run the danger of some of that substance getting into the spray and onto your project (that’s why you only need a little bit). The question is what will happen when that greasy substance reacts with your paint. SuperLube doesn’t like to react with oil-based or water-based paints – that’s why we recommend it – we know what it will do. If you use an oil-based lube it might react with your acrylic paints (it’ll mix like oil and water).
Another suggestion is Woodland Scenic Light Gear Oil.  As with any Oil, please test your airbrush on a scrap paper or project just to ensure your oil doesn't interfere with your paint work.

Q: Why do I need to lubricate the needle?
A: The needle doesn’t really need the lube rather the needle in turn lubricates a little o-ring deep in the body of the brush that prevents blowback. It’s really rather small so it doesn’t need much lube and it only needs to be lubed every now and then.

Q: Are airbrushes hard to keep clean?
A: No, it’s quite a simple task, though it might be difficult at first. Develop a regular maintenance habit of rinsing the airbrush with the appropriate cleaning agent for the material being sprayed between color changes. Thoroughly clean your airbrush at the end of the workday. Check out the appropriate cleaning guide for your brush online or come down and see us to help you find a copy.

Q: How often should I thoroughly clean my airbrush?
A: It’s easy to say that you should clean your airbrush at the end of each workday; however, you should thoroughly clean the airbrush when the inevitable buildup of dried paint begins to interfere with normal operation. For some people this is once a week, for others, it’s once a day. It should be noted that regular and timely rinsing of wet paint with the appropriate cleaner will lengthen the amount of time between thorough cleanings. In short, rinsing more means cleaning less.

Q: How do I rinse my airbrush?
A: To rinse out the airbrush, simply flush it with the appropriate paint cleaning agent – Medea Airbrush Cleaner for water-based paints and paint thinner for oil-based paints. Never immerse or soak an entire airbrush. When using flammable cleaners never flush the airbrush near an open flame or lose electrical wiring and always flush the cleaner into an appropriate container to deal with these materials.

Q: How often should I rinse my airbrush?
A: You should rinse out the airbrush generally in-between color changes, before taking a break, and at the end of the day. Here’s why – wet materials clean up easier than dry materials. Rinse it while it’s wet and you won’t have to do a thorough cleaning as often when it’s dry. Rinsing between color changes is a maybe. If you’re blending colors and working from light to dark then chances are good that you won’t have to rinse. If you need a pure color then you will have to rinse out your airbrush.

Q: When I’m thoroughly cleaning out my airbrush why should I use a solvent?
A: Solvents quickly break up the molecular bonds paint forms when it dries. We recommend acetone or lacquer thinner as solvents, but stay away from paint thinner – paint thinner, in our experience, doesn’t seem to work well cleaning airbrushes. Do not soak your airbrush in a solvent. There are parts and greases in other areas of the airbrush that don’t take kindly to it. With that said, you should generally use only as much solvent as can be held in a cotton swab or in a pipe-cleaner. WARNING: DO NOT SPRAY SOLVENTS THROUGH THE AIRBRUSH. Bad idea, here’s why.

Q: What about Medea Airbrush Cleaner? Can I use it to clean out my airbrush instead of solvent?
A: There’s a saying-”the right tool for the right job”. Medea Airbrush Cleaner is great stuff and it works really well on wet paints and materials. Paint is a suspension of pigment in an adhesive substance. When the adhesive is wet you can wash it off with soapy water-when it is dry, you need something to dissolve the molecular bonds the adhesive creates. This is where solvents such as acetone or lacquer thinner come into play.

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Don't Get Stuck - picking out adhesives and glue. Part 3

Types of Glue

The main types of glue that a modeler will need in their armoury are;

• Polystyrene cement (reviewed July 29/13)
• Cyano acetate (‘super glue’) also known as cyanoacrylate (CA glue) (reviewed July 29/13)
• Epoxy Resin (reviewed Aug 5/13)
• Clear ‘canopy’ glue (reviewed Aug 5/13)
• Gloss varnish (reviewed Aug 5/13)
• Clear rubber/silicone cement (today's item)
• PVA adhesive (today's item)
• White glue/woodworkers glue (today's item)
• and there is always a new one coming to the market

Clear Rubber And Silicone Cements

There is a wide range of tube glues mainly intended for domestic use that are often branded as ‘All Purpose’ or ‘Universal’ glues.  They generally dry clear and remain rubbery.  The majority are solvent based, but there are varieties advertised as “safe for children” that do not contain any solvents.

PVA Glue

This is a thin water based white glue that dries rubbery.  It has wide range of commercial and domestic uses.  For example, in the construction trade it is often watered down and used to prime walls prior to painting.  It is very popular in kindergartens and schools because it is ideal for sticking paper and card and safe for children to use.  

We do not carry this at this time

White Glue / Woodworkers glue

This looks very much like PVA glue, being white and water-based but it is more viscous.  It has limited use for most modelling applications, but is very good at bonding wood, so may be useful when making dioramas or bases.  Some modellers use it to bond clear parts such as cockpit canopies.  It may dry clear or white depending on the manufacturer.

partial Source of article

The items pictured in this blog can be found at Chinook & Hobby West!

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Don't Get Stuck - picking out adhesives and glue. Part 2

Types of Glue

The main types of glue that a modeler will need in their armoury are;

• Polystyrene cement (reviewed July 29/13)
• Cyano acetate (‘super glue’) also known as cyanoacrylate (CA glue) (reviewed July 29/13)
• Epoxy Resin (today's item)
• Clear ‘canopy’ glue (today's item)
• Gloss varnish (today's item)
• Clear rubber/silicone cement (next week)
• PVA adhesive (next week)
• White glue/woodworkers glue (next week)
• and there is always a new one coming to the market

Epoxy Resins

These adhesives consist of two parts – the hardener and adhesive – which need to be thoroughly mixed before application.  Sometimes they come in separate tubes and sometimes they come in a double syringe.  
Like superglue, the epoxy resins glue almost anything to anything, but they also need a good clean grease free and preferably roughened surface to get the best bond.

Clear ‘Canopy’ Glues

Sticking clear plastic parts presents problems.  The fumes given off by polystyrene cements and even cyano glues can make the clear parts become foggy.  It is very difficult to use epoxy resin glues on clear parts without smearing the glue on the parts.
For this reason, a few modelling suppliers have produced their own glues specifically designed for clear plastic parts and these are sometimes called ‘canopy’ glues.

Gloss Varnish

It may be surprising to find gloss varnish in a list of adhesives because clearly it is not intended to be used as a glue at all.  However, gloss varnish is surprisingly useful for holding very small parts, such a photo etch buckles in place.

Continued Next Week!

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Don't Get Stuck - picking out adhesives and glue. Part 1

**Getting the right glue for the right job is very important, so modelers need to know what is available.  Although this article will cover the main types of glue, the huge variety of glues from so many manufacturers means that you should always pay attention to the instructions on the particular product you are using.**

Types of Glue

The main types of glue that a modeler will need in their armoury are;

• Polystyrene cement
• Cyano acetate (‘super glue’) also known as cyanoacrylate (CA glue) 
• Epoxy Resin
• Clear ‘canopy’ glue
• Gloss varnish
• Clear rubber/silicone cement
• PVA adhesive
• White glue/woodworkers glue
• and there is always a new one coming to the market

Polystyrene Cement

Polystyrene (poly) cement is only suitable for rigid polystyrene plastic.  It works by dissolving the surface of the plastic which then re-hardens.  If a bead of poly cement is put between two pieces of plastic, then both faces of the plastic dissolve and meld together so that when they harden they have formed a solid joint.  In effect, the two pieces have been welded together, so a very good bond is formed that is as strong as the plastic.

Cyanoacrylate Adhesive (‘Superglue’)

When this glue was introduced, it was advertised as instantly bonding almost anything to anything else and indeed it is very versatile.  The only substances that resist it seem to be certain soft plastics.  As such, it is very good for bonding hard plastics, resin and metals to each other, which makes it very useful on multi-media kits.  However, it not easy to use and should perhaps be avoided by novices and children.  It can be unforgiving, with the thin formulas curing in one or two seconds and often seeming to stick fingers to the kit much better than it sticks kit parts together. 
Click here for tips on storing Superglue

Watch for Part 2 Next week!

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Tips On Gluing Clear Parts

Many of us have done a model where we are following the instructions- only to find out the glue we used to put our masterpiece model together has clouded up our canopy, windows or other clear parts. After you stop cursing and yelling and pick up your model and its bits off the floor, you wonder what happened and can I fix it?

Ah, well - the what happened is easy. The fumes from the glue have reacted to the plastic and you can't fix it. You could alter the clouded plastic part and make it look like the window smashed, or  if its a car you could do a diorama with teens making out in the car (steamed windows - good imagination helps).

To prevent this in the future? You need to use a clear parts glue. At Chinook & Hobby West we have two different kinds: Testors Clear Parts Cement and Cheap Stick Hobby Glue.

                        

Use fine beads of clear parts glue to secure the piece in place. Hold it in place for about 1 minute to set enough to let go of it. Then leave it overnight to cure. It dries clear. If you need to remove excess glue use a fine file so you don't mare your clear part and can control where you are filing.

Come down to our stores, call us or email us if you have any other questions.

Ph North - 403-984-3438                     Ph South - 403-243-1997
email    hobbywest@gmail.com                email    hobbywest@shaw.ca

Check out our website Ezine page for more tips, info and ideas!
http://www.chinookandhobbywest.com/chinook-breeze-ezine.html

Getting Started With Milliput

Getting Started With Milliput

Milliput is a trade name for epoxy putty. There are five grades: Standard Yellow/Grey, Silver Grey, Superfine White, Terracotta, and the latest addition - Milliput Black. Each grade is presented in similar packs containing 2 x 56·7gm. sticks and the general instructions for preparation and usage are the same.
The two sticks have a long shelf life but once mixed the resultant putty is at first soft and highly adhesive and then gradually hardens. Speed of hardening is dependant on temperature and at normal temperatures (20-25ºC) Milliput becomes rock hard in three to four hours. By the application of heat the setting time can be reduced to a few minutes.

After setting hard Milliput continues to cure and is fully cured after an elapse of time equal to the setting time at the same temperature. Once fully cured Milliput can be machined, drilled, tapped, turned, filed, sawn, sandpapered and painted. Milliput can be sandpapered and painted immediately it has set. (it is advisable to wear eye protection during this process).
Milliput is an excellent adhesive and will bond any of the following to itself or to any of the others - wood, brick, cement, metals, concrete, plastics, glass etc, but note that Milliput is not intended as a thin layer adhesive and should not be used where a paste, mucilage or thin glue is indicated. Milliput will set under water and is heat resistant up to 130°C.

Shelf Life:
We recommend Milliput is stored in cool, dry conditions. Please reseal bags after use. Stored correctly this product should remain workable for about 2 years.

Black Milliput was introduced in response to user demand and can be used for Repairs to antique clocks, Guttering, Ebonised wood, Marble, Slate, Cast iron, Basalt ceramics and black plastic parts in cars (such as bumpers, small handles, buttons and knobs).

Yellow-Gray Milliput The epoxy putty with a thousand uses in modeling D.I.Y and industry. (Car repairs, military models, Marine craft repairs, household repairs like gutters)

Silver Grey Milliput was introduced as slightly  finer filler and is widely used for modelmaking, sculpting, taxidermy and for the repair of garden ornaments. (porcelin restoration- dolls & plates, Military Modeling, Domestic Repairs, ).

Superfine White Milliput For the restoration of porcelain and other ceramics for the repair of antiques, objects d'art, Victorian dolls, picture mouldings, etc. For sculpting and modeling. For the repair of white domestic chinaware and for filling scores and dents in white domestic equipment e.g. washing machines, refrigerators, etc. (porcelain restoration- dolls & plates, Military Modeling, Domestic Repairs, ).
**It is very important when using this grade of Milliput, because the sticks are virtually the same colour, that you mix the two parts for at least five minutes.**

Terracotta Milliput used for the restoration of terracotta and other ceramics. Also for the repair of garden urns, pots, Statuettes and damaged brickwork, etc. Also for sculpting and modeling. (Earthen wear pots, Quarry Tiles, Statuettes, damaged brickwork)

Use Milliput to add features for realism to models and figures or to customize.

A "Cool" Tip!

If you are interrupted while you are mixing Milliput, you can put the Milliput into a deep freezer until you can get back to work. This will keep the product at approximately the same state of setting at which it was frozen for up to 36 hours. Simply remove the now frozen product from the freezer and warm in the hand and it is ready to use. If stored immediately on mixing it retains its sticky nature.

Milliput crusting cure
Tom Sime - Epoxy 101
 
There are differences between brands of epoxy putties but they all have very similar properties.

I have used Milliput, AB as well as Magic Sculpt and if Milliput is used, as a “base line” AB is a little firmer in texture and Magic Sculpt is a little softer as well as having a surface “sheen” that (I find) makes judging depth a little more difficult than with Milliput.

One of the big problems when you purchase Milliput is that you don’t know how old it is. The darker stick has a tendency to “crusting” on its outside surface if its kept in storage for to long. If this is not dealt with then when you mix the two components you will have small pieces of the crust in the mix that will not cure properly as the Milliput hardens.

The cure for crusting is as follows-
1) Warm an oven to 200 Centigrade/Celsius.
2) Place the encrusted stick on a piece of foil and put into warm oven.
3) Make a cup of coffee/tea and drink it. This should take you 20 minutes.
4) After 20 Minutes carefully remove HOT Milliput from oven remembering that its HOT and STICKIE and if you touch it will STICK to YOU and BURN.
5) Allow the Milliput to cool till it is warm to the touch (don’t let it go cold) and you can handle it without burning yourself.
6) Now simply mix it well with itself thoroughly, this will take at least 3-5 minutes.
When the mix cools completely you will find that the lumps have been reconstituted and are no longer a problem.

All epoxy putties change in consistency between mixing and curing. At the time of mixing epoxies are soft and pliable, as time passes they tend to firm up and are less easy to work with sculpting tools. This knowledge can be used to your advantage.

Putty that is freshly mixed is soft and therefore ideal for sculpting and shaping with dental tools, toothpicks and homemade tools designed to meet your personal needs. I use Milliput for figure sculpting and use a selection of various sized needles that have been epoxy glued into the handles of old paintbrushes. A paintbrush moistened with a little water can be used as an aid to sculpting, blending and smoothing out the surface of whatever you creating.  

Putty that is no longer soft and malleable need not be discarded. If it has started to firm up it is perfect for rolling out and being cut and shaped for clothing, tarps, blankets, bedrolls etc. To roll out the putty simply dust it with a little talc place it on a flat surface and use piece of dowel/plastic rod to roll it out. Use a moist paintbrush to remove the talc before “fastening” into its final place.

There are few things more satisfying than creating your own sculpture/conversion. I hope the forgone helps you to do just this.

Another customer adds - A quicker method that I use is to place the "crusty" one on a glass dish and microwave on full power for approximately 10 seconds (depends on m/w output), then mix with itself.  just remember it is HOT when it comes out of the micro.

The info in this article is from Milliput.com & Tom Sime a customer

Airbrushes - Differences

Before choosing an airbrush ask yourself: What will it be used for? How often will I use it? What type of material will I be spraying? What kind of paint will I be using? Will you be using a can of air or compressor?

Make sure to hold the airbrush in your hand to feel the weight & balance. If it is too heavy your hand will easily tire or cramp and affect how you paint.

INTERNAL MIX - the air and paint mix inside the airbrush giving an atomized 'fine dot' spray pattern.
EXTERNAL MIX - the air and paint mix outside the airbrush making a larger, coarser spray pattern.
DUAL ACTION - the trigger on the airbrush controls both the air and paint seperatly. this allows for different line widths when spraying.
SINGLE ACTION - the trigger only controls the air flow. Turning the needle adjustment screw gives a pre-set amount of paint when pressing the trigger.
GRAVITY FEED - a top-mounted colour cup uses gravity to draw the paint into the airbrush. (this one is great if using a can of air with your brush)
BOTTOM FEED - the paint enters through a tube or colour cup attached to the bottom of the airbrush. This requires a high PSI so a compressor drived airbrush is better.
SIDE FEED - uses a small colour cup that fits into the side of the airbrush. This requires at least 20 PSI and either air method is OK for this one.

 

The needles and nozzles come in varying sizes to accomodate many different projects on many different materials. Come in and see us for great books, DVD's and knowledgeable staff.

For more information visit: http://www.badgerairbrush.com/Airbrush_Info.asp