Basic Airbrush Maintenance and Cleaning- Q & A

Many different experience levels come and visit us here at Chinook & Hobby West to talk about Airbrushing. We also get many questions regarding Airbrushes through our social medias and by email.

We carry Paasche, Iwata and Badger currently and yes, we do promote these items. We also have general information to help all Airbrush users.

The following are some of your questions and answers we have researched for you.  If you still have questions, please email us at hobbywest@shaw.ca.



Q: Why should I use SuperLube?
A: When you’re using a substance to lubricate your airbrush needle (or trigger) you run the danger of some of that substance getting into the spray and onto your project (that’s why you only need a little bit). The question is what will happen when that greasy substance reacts with your paint. SuperLube doesn’t like to react with oil-based or water-based paints – that’s why we recommend it – we know what it will do. If you use an oil-based lube it might react with your acrylic paints (it’ll mix like oil and water).
Another suggestion is Woodland Scenic Light Gear Oil.  As with any Oil, please test your airbrush on a scrap paper or project just to ensure your oil doesn't interfere with your paint work.

Q: Why do I need to lubricate the needle?
A: The needle doesn’t really need the lube rather the needle in turn lubricates a little o-ring deep in the body of the brush that prevents blowback. It’s really rather small so it doesn’t need much lube and it only needs to be lubed every now and then.

Q: Are airbrushes hard to keep clean?
A: No, it’s quite a simple task, though it might be difficult at first. Develop a regular maintenance habit of rinsing the airbrush with the appropriate cleaning agent for the material being sprayed between color changes. Thoroughly clean your airbrush at the end of the workday. Check out the appropriate cleaning guide for your brush online or come down and see us to help you find a copy.

Q: How often should I thoroughly clean my airbrush?
A: It’s easy to say that you should clean your airbrush at the end of each workday; however, you should thoroughly clean the airbrush when the inevitable buildup of dried paint begins to interfere with normal operation. For some people this is once a week, for others, it’s once a day. It should be noted that regular and timely rinsing of wet paint with the appropriate cleaner will lengthen the amount of time between thorough cleanings. In short, rinsing more means cleaning less.

Q: How do I rinse my airbrush?
A: To rinse out the airbrush, simply flush it with the appropriate paint cleaning agent – Medea Airbrush Cleaner for water-based paints and paint thinner for oil-based paints. Never immerse or soak an entire airbrush. When using flammable cleaners never flush the airbrush near an open flame or lose electrical wiring and always flush the cleaner into an appropriate container to deal with these materials.

Q: How often should I rinse my airbrush?
A: You should rinse out the airbrush generally in-between color changes, before taking a break, and at the end of the day. Here’s why – wet materials clean up easier than dry materials. Rinse it while it’s wet and you won’t have to do a thorough cleaning as often when it’s dry. Rinsing between color changes is a maybe. If you’re blending colors and working from light to dark then chances are good that you won’t have to rinse. If you need a pure color then you will have to rinse out your airbrush.

Q: When I’m thoroughly cleaning out my airbrush why should I use a solvent?
A: Solvents quickly break up the molecular bonds paint forms when it dries. We recommend acetone or lacquer thinner as solvents, but stay away from paint thinner – paint thinner, in our experience, doesn’t seem to work well cleaning airbrushes. Do not soak your airbrush in a solvent. There are parts and greases in other areas of the airbrush that don’t take kindly to it. With that said, you should generally use only as much solvent as can be held in a cotton swab or in a pipe-cleaner. WARNING: DO NOT SPRAY SOLVENTS THROUGH THE AIRBRUSH. Bad idea, here’s why.

Q: What about Medea Airbrush Cleaner? Can I use it to clean out my airbrush instead of solvent?
A: There’s a saying-”the right tool for the right job”. Medea Airbrush Cleaner is great stuff and it works really well on wet paints and materials. Paint is a suspension of pigment in an adhesive substance. When the adhesive is wet you can wash it off with soapy water-when it is dry, you need something to dissolve the molecular bonds the adhesive creates. This is where solvents such as acetone or lacquer thinner come into play.

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Don't Get Stuck - picking out adhesives and glue. Part 3

Types of Glue

The main types of glue that a modeler will need in their armoury are;

• Polystyrene cement (reviewed July 29/13)
• Cyano acetate (‘super glue’) also known as cyanoacrylate (CA glue) (reviewed July 29/13)
• Epoxy Resin (reviewed Aug 5/13)
• Clear ‘canopy’ glue (reviewed Aug 5/13)
• Gloss varnish (reviewed Aug 5/13)
• Clear rubber/silicone cement (today's item)
• PVA adhesive (today's item)
• White glue/woodworkers glue (today's item)
• and there is always a new one coming to the market

Clear Rubber And Silicone Cements

There is a wide range of tube glues mainly intended for domestic use that are often branded as ‘All Purpose’ or ‘Universal’ glues.  They generally dry clear and remain rubbery.  The majority are solvent based, but there are varieties advertised as “safe for children” that do not contain any solvents.

PVA Glue

This is a thin water based white glue that dries rubbery.  It has wide range of commercial and domestic uses.  For example, in the construction trade it is often watered down and used to prime walls prior to painting.  It is very popular in kindergartens and schools because it is ideal for sticking paper and card and safe for children to use.  

We do not carry this at this time

White Glue / Woodworkers glue

This looks very much like PVA glue, being white and water-based but it is more viscous.  It has limited use for most modelling applications, but is very good at bonding wood, so may be useful when making dioramas or bases.  Some modellers use it to bond clear parts such as cockpit canopies.  It may dry clear or white depending on the manufacturer.

partial Source of article

The items pictured in this blog can be found at Chinook & Hobby West!

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Don't Get Stuck - picking out adhesives and glue. Part 2

Types of Glue

The main types of glue that a modeler will need in their armoury are;

• Polystyrene cement (reviewed July 29/13)
• Cyano acetate (‘super glue’) also known as cyanoacrylate (CA glue) (reviewed July 29/13)
• Epoxy Resin (today's item)
• Clear ‘canopy’ glue (today's item)
• Gloss varnish (today's item)
• Clear rubber/silicone cement (next week)
• PVA adhesive (next week)
• White glue/woodworkers glue (next week)
• and there is always a new one coming to the market

Epoxy Resins

These adhesives consist of two parts – the hardener and adhesive – which need to be thoroughly mixed before application.  Sometimes they come in separate tubes and sometimes they come in a double syringe.  
Like superglue, the epoxy resins glue almost anything to anything, but they also need a good clean grease free and preferably roughened surface to get the best bond.

Clear ‘Canopy’ Glues

Sticking clear plastic parts presents problems.  The fumes given off by polystyrene cements and even cyano glues can make the clear parts become foggy.  It is very difficult to use epoxy resin glues on clear parts without smearing the glue on the parts.
For this reason, a few modelling suppliers have produced their own glues specifically designed for clear plastic parts and these are sometimes called ‘canopy’ glues.

Gloss Varnish

It may be surprising to find gloss varnish in a list of adhesives because clearly it is not intended to be used as a glue at all.  However, gloss varnish is surprisingly useful for holding very small parts, such a photo etch buckles in place.

Continued Next Week!

The items pictured on this page are available at Chinook & Hobby West!

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Don't Get Stuck - picking out adhesives and glue. Part 1

**Getting the right glue for the right job is very important, so modelers need to know what is available.  Although this article will cover the main types of glue, the huge variety of glues from so many manufacturers means that you should always pay attention to the instructions on the particular product you are using.**

Types of Glue

The main types of glue that a modeler will need in their armoury are;

• Polystyrene cement
• Cyano acetate (‘super glue’) also known as cyanoacrylate (CA glue) 
• Epoxy Resin
• Clear ‘canopy’ glue
• Gloss varnish
• Clear rubber/silicone cement
• PVA adhesive
• White glue/woodworkers glue
• and there is always a new one coming to the market

Polystyrene Cement

Polystyrene (poly) cement is only suitable for rigid polystyrene plastic.  It works by dissolving the surface of the plastic which then re-hardens.  If a bead of poly cement is put between two pieces of plastic, then both faces of the plastic dissolve and meld together so that when they harden they have formed a solid joint.  In effect, the two pieces have been welded together, so a very good bond is formed that is as strong as the plastic.

Cyanoacrylate Adhesive (‘Superglue’)

When this glue was introduced, it was advertised as instantly bonding almost anything to anything else and indeed it is very versatile.  The only substances that resist it seem to be certain soft plastics.  As such, it is very good for bonding hard plastics, resin and metals to each other, which makes it very useful on multi-media kits.  However, it not easy to use and should perhaps be avoided by novices and children.  It can be unforgiving, with the thin formulas curing in one or two seconds and often seeming to stick fingers to the kit much better than it sticks kit parts together. 
Click here for tips on storing Superglue

Watch for Part 2 Next week!

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Tips On Gluing Clear Parts

Many of us have done a model where we are following the instructions- only to find out the glue we used to put our masterpiece model together has clouded up our canopy, windows or other clear parts. After you stop cursing and yelling and pick up your model and its bits off the floor, you wonder what happened and can I fix it?

Ah, well - the what happened is easy. The fumes from the glue have reacted to the plastic and you can't fix it. You could alter the clouded plastic part and make it look like the window smashed, or  if its a car you could do a diorama with teens making out in the car (steamed windows - good imagination helps).

To prevent this in the future? You need to use a clear parts glue. At Chinook & Hobby West we have two different kinds: Testors Clear Parts Cement and Cheap Stick Hobby Glue.

                        

Use fine beads of clear parts glue to secure the piece in place. Hold it in place for about 1 minute to set enough to let go of it. Then leave it overnight to cure. It dries clear. If you need to remove excess glue use a fine file so you don't mare your clear part and can control where you are filing.

Come down to our stores, call us or email us if you have any other questions.

Ph North - 403-984-3438                     Ph South - 403-243-1997
email    hobbywest@gmail.com                email    hobbywest@shaw.ca

Check out our website Ezine page for more tips, info and ideas!
http://www.chinookandhobbywest.com/chinook-breeze-ezine.html

Getting Started With Milliput

Getting Started With Milliput

Milliput is a trade name for epoxy putty. There are five grades: Standard Yellow/Grey, Silver Grey, Superfine White, Terracotta, and the latest addition - Milliput Black. Each grade is presented in similar packs containing 2 x 56·7gm. sticks and the general instructions for preparation and usage are the same.
The two sticks have a long shelf life but once mixed the resultant putty is at first soft and highly adhesive and then gradually hardens. Speed of hardening is dependant on temperature and at normal temperatures (20-25ºC) Milliput becomes rock hard in three to four hours. By the application of heat the setting time can be reduced to a few minutes.

After setting hard Milliput continues to cure and is fully cured after an elapse of time equal to the setting time at the same temperature. Once fully cured Milliput can be machined, drilled, tapped, turned, filed, sawn, sandpapered and painted. Milliput can be sandpapered and painted immediately it has set. (it is advisable to wear eye protection during this process).
Milliput is an excellent adhesive and will bond any of the following to itself or to any of the others - wood, brick, cement, metals, concrete, plastics, glass etc, but note that Milliput is not intended as a thin layer adhesive and should not be used where a paste, mucilage or thin glue is indicated. Milliput will set under water and is heat resistant up to 130°C.

Shelf Life:
We recommend Milliput is stored in cool, dry conditions. Please reseal bags after use. Stored correctly this product should remain workable for about 2 years.

Black Milliput was introduced in response to user demand and can be used for Repairs to antique clocks, Guttering, Ebonised wood, Marble, Slate, Cast iron, Basalt ceramics and black plastic parts in cars (such as bumpers, small handles, buttons and knobs).

Yellow-Gray Milliput The epoxy putty with a thousand uses in modeling D.I.Y and industry. (Car repairs, military models, Marine craft repairs, household repairs like gutters)

Silver Grey Milliput was introduced as slightly  finer filler and is widely used for modelmaking, sculpting, taxidermy and for the repair of garden ornaments. (porcelin restoration- dolls & plates, Military Modeling, Domestic Repairs, ).

Superfine White Milliput For the restoration of porcelain and other ceramics for the repair of antiques, objects d'art, Victorian dolls, picture mouldings, etc. For sculpting and modeling. For the repair of white domestic chinaware and for filling scores and dents in white domestic equipment e.g. washing machines, refrigerators, etc. (porcelain restoration- dolls & plates, Military Modeling, Domestic Repairs, ).
**It is very important when using this grade of Milliput, because the sticks are virtually the same colour, that you mix the two parts for at least five minutes.**

Terracotta Milliput used for the restoration of terracotta and other ceramics. Also for the repair of garden urns, pots, Statuettes and damaged brickwork, etc. Also for sculpting and modeling. (Earthen wear pots, Quarry Tiles, Statuettes, damaged brickwork)

Use Milliput to add features for realism to models and figures or to customize.

A "Cool" Tip!

If you are interrupted while you are mixing Milliput, you can put the Milliput into a deep freezer until you can get back to work. This will keep the product at approximately the same state of setting at which it was frozen for up to 36 hours. Simply remove the now frozen product from the freezer and warm in the hand and it is ready to use. If stored immediately on mixing it retains its sticky nature.

Milliput crusting cure
Tom Sime - Epoxy 101
 
There are differences between brands of epoxy putties but they all have very similar properties.

I have used Milliput, AB as well as Magic Sculpt and if Milliput is used, as a “base line” AB is a little firmer in texture and Magic Sculpt is a little softer as well as having a surface “sheen” that (I find) makes judging depth a little more difficult than with Milliput.

One of the big problems when you purchase Milliput is that you don’t know how old it is. The darker stick has a tendency to “crusting” on its outside surface if its kept in storage for to long. If this is not dealt with then when you mix the two components you will have small pieces of the crust in the mix that will not cure properly as the Milliput hardens.

The cure for crusting is as follows-
1) Warm an oven to 200 Centigrade/Celsius.
2) Place the encrusted stick on a piece of foil and put into warm oven.
3) Make a cup of coffee/tea and drink it. This should take you 20 minutes.
4) After 20 Minutes carefully remove HOT Milliput from oven remembering that its HOT and STICKIE and if you touch it will STICK to YOU and BURN.
5) Allow the Milliput to cool till it is warm to the touch (don’t let it go cold) and you can handle it without burning yourself.
6) Now simply mix it well with itself thoroughly, this will take at least 3-5 minutes.
When the mix cools completely you will find that the lumps have been reconstituted and are no longer a problem.

All epoxy putties change in consistency between mixing and curing. At the time of mixing epoxies are soft and pliable, as time passes they tend to firm up and are less easy to work with sculpting tools. This knowledge can be used to your advantage.

Putty that is freshly mixed is soft and therefore ideal for sculpting and shaping with dental tools, toothpicks and homemade tools designed to meet your personal needs. I use Milliput for figure sculpting and use a selection of various sized needles that have been epoxy glued into the handles of old paintbrushes. A paintbrush moistened with a little water can be used as an aid to sculpting, blending and smoothing out the surface of whatever you creating.  

Putty that is no longer soft and malleable need not be discarded. If it has started to firm up it is perfect for rolling out and being cut and shaped for clothing, tarps, blankets, bedrolls etc. To roll out the putty simply dust it with a little talc place it on a flat surface and use piece of dowel/plastic rod to roll it out. Use a moist paintbrush to remove the talc before “fastening” into its final place.

There are few things more satisfying than creating your own sculpture/conversion. I hope the forgone helps you to do just this.

Another customer adds - A quicker method that I use is to place the "crusty" one on a glass dish and microwave on full power for approximately 10 seconds (depends on m/w output), then mix with itself.  just remember it is HOT when it comes out of the micro.

The info in this article is from Milliput.com & Tom Sime a customer

Guns Don't Help Stress.... Hobbies Help Stress!

In this technologically dependant era we have forgotten how to find ways to cope with the stress that comes with all these gadgets. We are too tempted to check our Facebook and Twitter accounts and encourage our kids to play video games.

Yes, these things can be fun but what happens when the battery runs out?

I own a hobby store in Calgary. Actually I own two, and I love to get people unplugged from their electronics and back down to earth by finding a hobby that they can use their skills they forgot about and imagination with.

Did your dad used to take you to the airport to watch the planes take off when you were a kid? How about trying your hand at making a plastic model replica of a WWII aircraft or commercial jet? Did you and your buddies play cowboys and indians or war? Make a diorama of a scene from that memory (we have a few on display at both of our stores for inspiration).

We sell collectible toys like Star Wars, GI Joe, Marvel and Barbie ~vintage and new. We have diecast pre-built cars and aircraft so you can just put them on display (great executive gifts!), we also carry model railroading from tiny Z scale (locomotive would be the length of your pinky finger) to O scale (the loco would be the size from your wrist to your elbow). So much fun, imagination and something to pass on to your kids and grandkids.

But, my favourite part of my job.... I get to play with Toys and build Model Kits and play Trains all day and I get to say, 'I'm product testing'.... I have the best job!!! Wanna come over and Play?

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~~this post by Valerie

Storing SuperGlue (CA glue) & Helpful Tips

Have you ever used Superglue? You may have had problems with the tip clogging with dried glue or the glue turning to gel? Or do you want to use it, but you're intimidated by the thought of gluing your hand to your face, or your forhead to the table. Well in this post we hope to help you with solving some of these issues and putting some of those fears to rest.

We carry the brand Speed glue. It comes in Thin (pink label), Medium (green label-also a gap filler), and Thick (yellow label). The main differences in these is the drying time of each, its viscosity and application uses.

We also carry High Speed which is an accelorator to speed curing time and Speed Reverse which is a debonder, that is to seperate you from your project in case of that occasional mishap.

Tips to Remember:

• Cut the tip of the glue spout at an angle, this helps prevents clogging and gives you a guide to help control application. If the tip does clog try cutting below the clog again at an angle.
• Take your time. Dry fit the part you are gluing to make sure you know how it fits together. You only have between 2 and 15 seconds depending on the viscocity of your glue, so you want to make sure to get it right the first time!
• When using the Medium Viscosity as a gap filler, let the glue set (depending on how much you use depends on the curing time) then you can sand it to make it flush with your piece. If you use the accelorator you can sand almost immediatly
• You can store the glue in the door of your fridge (just make sure you keep in in the original safety bottle to prevent children from getting it). This will help extend the life of your super glue up to six months.

Remember a little goes a long way, using a toothpick to apply to small areas will minimize oozing, Never use Superglue on clear parts, it will cloud. If you happen to glue your skin you can use Debonder.

Tell us your helpful hint you have learned.....

If you have any additional questions please email us at hobbywest@shaw.ca or call us at 1-877-525-5785 (toll free in Canada and the USA).

How To Build Creative Dioramas

What is a 'Diorama'?
A diorama is a highly detailed presentaion of a real life or imaginary scene. They come in all shapes and sizes and can be used to enhance the appearance of a model to a telling a 'story'.

How To StartYou must decide on a base and theme first.
If you are doing a diorama of a scene (like the one pictured to the left) starting with a styrofoam base is the best. You can carve into it, stick things into it, build up on it with plaster or paper mache and its light weight so you can carry it a little easier
If you choose to do a car diorama to accent a model you have built you could choose wood. You can cut your own base or get a precut plaque style to build a small scene onto.
Answer one last question before you start: "What am I planning to do with this diorama once I've finished it?"
If you're building for a contest, get the rules ahead of time; some contests limit the size of entries.  A diorama that will serve as a display base for the completed mosels on your shelf at home needs to fit the space.  Construct your diorama so it will be well built to when you move it, it will last.

..... to be continued....

By Valerie Gale
~This blog is inspired and quoted from 'How To Build Creative Dioramas For Your Scale Auto Models' by Ken Hamilton ($14.99 cdn at our stores)

Vintage Craft Friday- Liquid Embroidery

Liquid Embroidery Crafts

Liquid embroidery can be done in the place of embroidery or screen printing without expensive equipment. The result is a pattern or text that is imprinted on fabric by using an embroidery pen. Embroidery pens are ball-point pens that are used like markers. Wash fabric that has been liquid embroidered just as you would normally wash the type of fabric. Ideas on how to use it on different mediums can be found:

http://www.ehow.com/info_8016695_liquid-embroidery-crafts.html

Liquid embroidery is great for kids and adults alike. My daughter decorated her 'indoor' school shoes and she is in grade one. I have decorated wooden and papermache boxes, shirts and pillow cases.

The brand we carry is called Vogart. Great for Clothing, fabrics, china, wood, leather, and more.  We have a great selection of colours and the tip cleaner too. 

You can find these and many more Vintage crafts at our stores. We have two locations in Calgary, one in the North West and one a few block north of Chinook Centre. See the addresses in yesterdays post.

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This article was authored and found at :

  By Sarah Davis, eHow Contributor