Model Tips for Beginners - Part 2

Previously we did a Blog on  Basic Tips For Model Building for beginners that takes you step by step through some basic steps on building a model kit.  

The following are some questions that some of you, our customers, have asked either through email, social media or here at our store.  If we haven't answered your question, please send us an email or come down and see us here at Chinook & Hobby West!

Make sure to check out Part 1 from last week:

• Removing parts from frames (also known as runners or sprues)
• Removing Decals for beginners
• What type of glue or cement should I use?

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What type of paint is best to use?
There are dozens of different paints sold in hobby and craft stores, hardware stores, and chain stores. We generally suggest that you try to stay with paint made specifically for plastic models. Most hobby paints will be either:

• Enamel, which you will need to use paint thinner or turpentine to clean your brushes and equipment, or
• Acrylic, which is water based so water will clean brushes and equipment.

You must clean the unpainted plastic parts prior to painting because paint may not adhere to the parts otherwise. This will remove the oily mold release spray that is added during manufacturing. To clean, put a few drops of a liquid dish or hand soap on an old toothbrush and give the parts a quick scrubbing. Let the parts air dry.

Many modelers like to use spray paints for the largest parts of their model, such as car bodies or aircraft fuselages because sprays will provide a better finish. Usually smaller detail parts are painted with a brush using bottled paints.

Some general guidelines when using sprays are:

• Use a coat of primer before spraying on your paint. Some paints may "craze" or attack the plastic surface depending on the paint's ingredients.
• Don't attempt to cover the part with one coat of paint. You want to spray several very light coats to build up the coverage. Paint coats that are too heavy cause runs and loss of engraved detail. Follow the directions on the can, but generally you'll want to wait 15-20 minutes between paint coats.
• It's best to stick with the same manufacturer for the different types of paints you use on the same model (primer, color and clear, if you use a clear coat). Putting one manufacturer's paints over another may cause them to react with each other.
• Let the paint dry completely before handling or trying to polish out the paint. Although it may seem dry on the surface, a good way to tell if the paint is fully cured is to hold the model up to your nose, if you can still smell the paint, it's probably not dry yet.

Why can't I find colors like fiery yellows and leafy greens in paints?
There are a variety of manufacturers that make an almost universal variety of paint colors that are compatible with plastic models. Testors, Tamiya, Humbrol, Floquil and Badger are just some of the companies you may want to check out. Rust-O-Leum is also safe because it is fish oil based, but always test first to be sure.

Don't be afraid to look in military, automotive, marine or any other category for paint. It's the color that counts, not the name on the bottle.

How can I fix a mistake in my paint job?
Your model should be quite salvageable. First thing, do NOT use sandpaper. There are a number of products that will remove most paints from styrene plastic safely. We recommend using products made specifically for this purpose, such as Scale Coat or Easy Lift Off by Floquil. Once you have stripped the paint from your model, wash and dry it thoroughly and re-prime. You should be good to go!

Why do I sometimes get bubbles in my paint?
There are a number of possibilities that could cause bubbles in your paint, but one of the most common is residual mold release left from the manufacturing process. Before painting any model, wash it with dish soap and dry thoroughly. Be sure to prime your model before painting so any imperfections may be resolved before applying your finish coat.

Is it better to paint the model before or after it's built?
Generally, you will have better results by painting your model before assembling it. An exception is to first glue together small parts of an assembly if they will all be the same color and painting it as a unit.

Decals: Types & Application

How do I apply decals?
Revell SnapTite® (Skill Level 1) kits contain "Peel 'n Stick" self-adhesive decals that are applied by simply peeling the image from the paper backing and applying to the model. Kits that require glue (Skill Levels 2 & 3) have traditional waterslide decals.

To apply a waterslide decal:

• Cut apart the individual images from the sheet.
• Dip the decal into lukewarm water for 1 or 2 minutes. Take the decal from the water and see if the image will move or slide on the paper backing. If not, return to the water for a few more seconds.
• Once the decal will slide on the backing, put the decal and backing on a paper towel for a few seconds to remove the excess water.
• Then bring the decal up to where on the model you want to apply it and slide the image from the paper backing onto the model. While wet, you can still move the image on the model a bit to position it just where you want it. If there are any air bubbles under the decal, gently push the bubble toward one of the edges of the decal with a wet Q-tip or edge of a paper towel to remove it.
• When the decal is in position, simply leave it air dry and it will stay in place.

Many hobby shops will sell various decal setting solutions that will help the decal conform to sharply curved surfaces. We suggest trying out the specific solution you wish to use on an unused decal from the same sheet applied to a piece of scrap plastic to make sure the solution will not react with the decal. If you wish to spray a clear coat over your decals, the clear paint you intend on using should be tested first using the same method.

I am a first-time model maker and am having difficulty removing the decals from the page to apply to model. Do you have any suggestions for application?
Decals should be dipped in lukewarm water for only a moment and then set on a paper towel to let the water soak in and dissolve the adhesive that holds the decal on the paper. The decal will curl up, and then unroll after a short time. At this point the decals should be able to be moved around on the backing paper and slid into location on the model. Once in place they can be dabbed with the tip of a paper towel or tissue to soak up excessive water.

My model requires that I put the gas cap on before the decals. How are you supposed to fit the decals over the gas cap?
The best way to do it would be to apply the decals first, and then with a sharp hobby knife make an "X" pattern hole in the decal and then install the gas cap.

For a tutorial on putting on very small decals Click Here

Replacement Parts

I bought a very old kit from a garage sale, at a swap meet, or on Ebay. Do you still have parts and decals for it?
Although we do our best to fulfill requests for missing parts, many of the kits available through collectors or other independent sources were released many decades ago. These kits can make wonderful collector's items, but it is unlikely that we will still have parts for them.

If this is the case, you might want to contact another collector through an online forum. Collectors will sometimes seek out multiple copies of the same kit so they can combine them and have one complete kit with some extra parts. You may be able to arrange a swap or purchase that way.

We usually suggest that you try going directly to the manufacturer of the model kit.

Why do models sometimes look different on the box than what's in the kit?
Although manufacturers try to make sure that the box art represents the actual model kit, in some instances there may be small variations in what is shown. Sometimes, the hand-made master model is used for the box art photo because the actual kit production hasn't been completed. Or, the producer of the actual prototype may make changes after the model tooling is committed for production. In either case, the differences will be subtle and will not affect the overall model kit subject.

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We hope that we have been able to answer some of your questions.  Please let us know what you think of our blogs. We love to hear from you.


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Basic Airbrush Maintenance and Cleaning- Q & A

Many different experience levels come and visit us here at Chinook & Hobby West to talk about Airbrushing. We also get many questions regarding Airbrushes through our social medias and by email.

We carry Paasche, Iwata and Badger currently and yes, we do promote these items. We also have general information to help all Airbrush users.

The following are some of your questions and answers we have researched for you.  If you still have questions, please email us at hobbywest@shaw.ca.



Q: Why should I use SuperLube?
A: When you’re using a substance to lubricate your airbrush needle (or trigger) you run the danger of some of that substance getting into the spray and onto your project (that’s why you only need a little bit). The question is what will happen when that greasy substance reacts with your paint. SuperLube doesn’t like to react with oil-based or water-based paints – that’s why we recommend it – we know what it will do. If you use an oil-based lube it might react with your acrylic paints (it’ll mix like oil and water).
Another suggestion is Woodland Scenic Light Gear Oil.  As with any Oil, please test your airbrush on a scrap paper or project just to ensure your oil doesn't interfere with your paint work.

Q: Why do I need to lubricate the needle?
A: The needle doesn’t really need the lube rather the needle in turn lubricates a little o-ring deep in the body of the brush that prevents blowback. It’s really rather small so it doesn’t need much lube and it only needs to be lubed every now and then.

Q: Are airbrushes hard to keep clean?
A: No, it’s quite a simple task, though it might be difficult at first. Develop a regular maintenance habit of rinsing the airbrush with the appropriate cleaning agent for the material being sprayed between color changes. Thoroughly clean your airbrush at the end of the workday. Check out the appropriate cleaning guide for your brush online or come down and see us to help you find a copy.

Q: How often should I thoroughly clean my airbrush?
A: It’s easy to say that you should clean your airbrush at the end of each workday; however, you should thoroughly clean the airbrush when the inevitable buildup of dried paint begins to interfere with normal operation. For some people this is once a week, for others, it’s once a day. It should be noted that regular and timely rinsing of wet paint with the appropriate cleaner will lengthen the amount of time between thorough cleanings. In short, rinsing more means cleaning less.

Q: How do I rinse my airbrush?
A: To rinse out the airbrush, simply flush it with the appropriate paint cleaning agent – Medea Airbrush Cleaner for water-based paints and paint thinner for oil-based paints. Never immerse or soak an entire airbrush. When using flammable cleaners never flush the airbrush near an open flame or lose electrical wiring and always flush the cleaner into an appropriate container to deal with these materials.

Q: How often should I rinse my airbrush?
A: You should rinse out the airbrush generally in-between color changes, before taking a break, and at the end of the day. Here’s why – wet materials clean up easier than dry materials. Rinse it while it’s wet and you won’t have to do a thorough cleaning as often when it’s dry. Rinsing between color changes is a maybe. If you’re blending colors and working from light to dark then chances are good that you won’t have to rinse. If you need a pure color then you will have to rinse out your airbrush.

Q: When I’m thoroughly cleaning out my airbrush why should I use a solvent?
A: Solvents quickly break up the molecular bonds paint forms when it dries. We recommend acetone or lacquer thinner as solvents, but stay away from paint thinner – paint thinner, in our experience, doesn’t seem to work well cleaning airbrushes. Do not soak your airbrush in a solvent. There are parts and greases in other areas of the airbrush that don’t take kindly to it. With that said, you should generally use only as much solvent as can be held in a cotton swab or in a pipe-cleaner. WARNING: DO NOT SPRAY SOLVENTS THROUGH THE AIRBRUSH. Bad idea, here’s why.

Q: What about Medea Airbrush Cleaner? Can I use it to clean out my airbrush instead of solvent?
A: There’s a saying-”the right tool for the right job”. Medea Airbrush Cleaner is great stuff and it works really well on wet paints and materials. Paint is a suspension of pigment in an adhesive substance. When the adhesive is wet you can wash it off with soapy water-when it is dry, you need something to dissolve the molecular bonds the adhesive creates. This is where solvents such as acetone or lacquer thinner come into play.

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Guide to a Simple Train Around the Christmas Tree

Since the first model train came into existence (Lionel in Germany in the 1830's) , kids and adults alike have dreamed of a Train around the Christmas Tree. It has become a special Holiday Tradition in many homes.

Remember the simple track you used when you were a kid?  Remember the train stopping or not running properly around the tree?  This was most likely because of all the dust, pet fur and other nasty surprises that can get drawn into the wheels and gears of the Locomotive.
 The train sets today have EZ Track (HO & N scale sets) or FasTrack (O scale sets) so you can put the track directly on the floor or on fabric and not have to worry too much about this problem. Although learning to maintain your locomotive is a good idea. Cleaning the wheels and gears weekly if you run it frequently, just to have that uninterrupted level of fun!

N & HO EZ-Track, O Lionel FasTrack

So let's get to why you are here:  Setting up a Simple track and train around your Christmas Tree!
Things You'll Need:

• Electric Train Set, with  track and power pack (choose a scale suited for the area you have- the most popular are HO (1:87 scale), O (1:48 scale), and G (1:22.5 - 1:25)
• piece of plywood (optional)
• Christmas Tree with a stand

1. Your Train - After a year in storage, your trains may need a little cleaning. In addition to brushing off the dust, the track and wheels need to be thoroughly cleaned. Older, steel track is prone to rusting if stored in humid locations. If your track shows signs of rust, save your time and just replace it. Clean wheels with paper towels and cleaning fluids.
   After extended periods in storage, it may be necessary to disassemble, clean and re-oil locomotive gearboxes. Do not over-lubricate.  (If you bring in your Train, we can teach you how to do this. There is no cost unless replacement parts are needed) Check power supplies and wires for any signs of wear or distress. Replace if needed.  There are many different sets with Steam and Diesel Locomotives, in different scales to choose from should you need to purchase one.
2. Track - See how much track you have (most sets for HO come with a minimum of a 36" circle or 36"x 48" oval- which is usually enough for a simple 'around the tree' layout). Most O scale sets come with a 40"x 60" oval- but check the box first!)  When adding more track into your oval or circle, you MUST add two.  Meaning, if you add a rerailer track that's 9" to one side, you must add an equal size to the opposite side so the layout doesn't bend and break. This is the same for curves.  If your track does not have roadbed built into it, place down a piece of plywood first.                                                       
3. Measure the area from the base of the tree out to make sure you have enough track for around the base of the tree. Keep in mind where the presents will go.  We usually have a space to either side of the track (on the outside) so we can run the train while opening gifts.                                                              
4. Keep It Simple - If you are only running the train for the Christmas Season, keep your track plan simple (to an oval or circle). If you want it a little more than just the traditional track plan, try these: 

   

   HO  Oval with incline

   
   

   

   HO  or O  plan

   
   

   

   Twice Around The Tree plan

   
   

   

   Twice Around The Tree Finished in O scale

   
   

   

   For small tree - HO scale plan.     For a larger tree- O or G scale plan

   
   
5. Assembling the Track and Testing the Train - Assemble the track, Make sure your electrical connector track is in an accessible position with the wire hookups facing the outer rim of the track circle.
   Connect the power pack to the track as directed by the instructions and test the flow of current using the model engine. Make sure it can circle the track at half speed without hitting a bump or falling off.
   Test the train one more time before putting the tree in place and decorating.                                          
6. Make it Kid Friendly - Christmas trains are meant to be enjoyed by all ages, and they are a great introduction into the hobby for children. One easy way to make any model train display more kid-friendly is to make them part of the action. In addition to running the trains, kids will want to help build and decorate the layout. Incorporating kid's toys into the display is a great way to make it personal and still keep a holiday feel.                                                                                                                         
7. 
8. Cleaning - If your trains are running beneath a Christmas tree, you'll probably find yourself pulling needles off the tracks by the end of the season. There is no great secret to keeping needles off the tracks (even an artificial tree will probably lose a few.) 
   Make sure you can reach all the way around the tree to clean. Make sure vacuming needles won't result in losing other scenic material or details.
   One additional concern for under-tree-trains is the power supply. Make sure your electrical circuit can handle the needs of both the trains and the tree lights. And make sure the cords for both don't interfere with the tracks.

9. Packing and Storing

   ©2010 Ryan C Kunkle, licensed to About.com, Inc.
   Next year's display begins when you put this year's away.

   • Before you pack, take the time to clean track and wheels again.
   • Pack trains, tracks, power supplies and all accessories carefully. Use original boxes if possible.
   • Store your trains in a dry place. Store fragile items where they will be safe.
   • If possible, give your locomotive a brief break-in run periodically throughout the year.

Some Final Tips to keep in mind:

• The lower branches of your tree will need to be trimmed up to allow enough room for the train to circle as well.
• The temptation may be to get a big train with lots of buildings, switches, figures and lights, but under a Christmas tree, limited space makes this impractical.
• For the same reasons, a Christmas train should be limited to a single engine and four cars.
• If your train set comes with securely locking tracks, you can avoid using plywood as long as the track will stay steady (for example, on a hard wood floor). Carpeting can create problems.
• If your train wobbles or comes off the track easily, disassemble the rail cars and glue weights inside to keep pressure on the track.
• Experiment with speed, but remember, a train flying around the track will also fly right off.
• If children will be operating the train, very young kids may have more success with a larger train gauge like 0 or G. It will be easier for them to hook the cars and place them on the track.
• While the voltage of a train power pack is not great enough to cause real damage, you should use a watering can with a long spout if you are using a live or cut tree. Water can damage the train and cause a short.

Thank you for reading our blog. Please feel free to leave a comment or email us a comment. 
Also check us out on Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and our Website!

Happy Hobbying!

Want to learn more:
First Model Railroad
Maintaining Your Locomotive
Replacing Model Train Wheels
Small Layout Holiday Ideas
Twice Around The Tree- Full Article

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Tips On Gluing Clear Parts

Many of us have done a model where we are following the instructions- only to find out the glue we used to put our masterpiece model together has clouded up our canopy, windows or other clear parts. After you stop cursing and yelling and pick up your model and its bits off the floor, you wonder what happened and can I fix it?

Ah, well - the what happened is easy. The fumes from the glue have reacted to the plastic and you can't fix it. You could alter the clouded plastic part and make it look like the window smashed, or  if its a car you could do a diorama with teens making out in the car (steamed windows - good imagination helps).

To prevent this in the future? You need to use a clear parts glue. At Chinook & Hobby West we have two different kinds: Testors Clear Parts Cement and Cheap Stick Hobby Glue.

                        

Use fine beads of clear parts glue to secure the piece in place. Hold it in place for about 1 minute to set enough to let go of it. Then leave it overnight to cure. It dries clear. If you need to remove excess glue use a fine file so you don't mare your clear part and can control where you are filing.

Come down to our stores, call us or email us if you have any other questions.

Ph North - 403-984-3438                     Ph South - 403-243-1997
email    hobbywest@gmail.com                email    hobbywest@shaw.ca

Check out our website Ezine page for more tips, info and ideas!
http://www.chinookandhobbywest.com/chinook-breeze-ezine.html

How To Build Creative Dioramas

What is a 'Diorama'?
A diorama is a highly detailed presentaion of a real life or imaginary scene. They come in all shapes and sizes and can be used to enhance the appearance of a model to a telling a 'story'.

How To StartYou must decide on a base and theme first.
If you are doing a diorama of a scene (like the one pictured to the left) starting with a styrofoam base is the best. You can carve into it, stick things into it, build up on it with plaster or paper mache and its light weight so you can carry it a little easier
If you choose to do a car diorama to accent a model you have built you could choose wood. You can cut your own base or get a precut plaque style to build a small scene onto.
Answer one last question before you start: "What am I planning to do with this diorama once I've finished it?"
If you're building for a contest, get the rules ahead of time; some contests limit the size of entries.  A diorama that will serve as a display base for the completed mosels on your shelf at home needs to fit the space.  Construct your diorama so it will be well built to when you move it, it will last.

..... to be continued....

By Valerie Gale
~This blog is inspired and quoted from 'How To Build Creative Dioramas For Your Scale Auto Models' by Ken Hamilton ($14.99 cdn at our stores)

Charity Event and Grand Opening! Fun and Surprises!

Come celebrate with us!

October 15^th 2011 9:30 am – 5:30 pm

It’s our 39^th Anniversary of Chinook & Hobby West

AND Our GRAND OPENING of our North Location

                     Supporting The Calgary Food Bank & The Make-A-Wish Southern Alberta

v  50% off Red Tag Merchandise (Oct 15^th & 16^th only – Discount with donation)

v  25% off Regular Priced Merchandise (Oct 15^th & 16^th – Discount with donation only)

v  Free BBQ Sponsored by M &M Meat Shops

v  Live Action Star Wars Characters from the 501^st & Rebel Alliance

v  Get a keepsake photograph with your favorite character (with donation)

v  Surprises for kids and adults (October 15^th only)

Vintage Craft Friday- Liquid Embroidery

Liquid Embroidery Crafts

Liquid embroidery can be done in the place of embroidery or screen printing without expensive equipment. The result is a pattern or text that is imprinted on fabric by using an embroidery pen. Embroidery pens are ball-point pens that are used like markers. Wash fabric that has been liquid embroidered just as you would normally wash the type of fabric. Ideas on how to use it on different mediums can be found:

http://www.ehow.com/info_8016695_liquid-embroidery-crafts.html

Liquid embroidery is great for kids and adults alike. My daughter decorated her 'indoor' school shoes and she is in grade one. I have decorated wooden and papermache boxes, shirts and pillow cases.

The brand we carry is called Vogart. Great for Clothing, fabrics, china, wood, leather, and more.  We have a great selection of colours and the tip cleaner too. 

You can find these and many more Vintage crafts at our stores. We have two locations in Calgary, one in the North West and one a few block north of Chinook Centre. See the addresses in yesterdays post.

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This article was authored and found at :

  By Sarah Davis, eHow Contributor