Showing posts with label O scale. Show all posts
Showing posts with label O scale. Show all posts

Thursday, 7 September 2017

Welcome To Model Railroading - Part 2

Welcome Back to Part two of our beginner series in Model Railroading. This post is all about the basics of building kits, the different track types, DCC, types of trains, what the numbers on a steam locomotive mean and painting terms.

If you have any questions or comments please email us or leave them below.


Plastic Model Building Kits:

Three Types:
1.      Pre-Built Plastics [model buildings].
2.      Build your self plastics
3.      Build your self-Wood.

Scenery Materials: Various:  Main one is Woodland Scenics,  Trost’s own, Bachmann, Heki. These are just a few of the brand names. Almost all scenery lines are geared to function with most or all scales.

People, Vehicles, Railroad parts i.e. crossing signs, lights, etc.
Woodland scenics, Model Power, Miniatures By Eric, Excel, Hobits, Micro Engineering, Trost’s Own, Herpa, Athearn, Wiking, McHenry, Kadee to name a few.

Track:  HO and N scales: Peco; Atlas; EZ Bachmann – O scale; Atlas O, RealTraxx
There is quite a lot for variety in most scales.


Different Types of Model Railroad Track

A question that always comes up first is – What type of model train track should I use? There are several different brands and sizes available. Mostly what you use is personal preference. One thing to remember is that the size of the rails is reported as the code. For example code 83-model railroad track has larger rails than code 55 tracks.
The difference between Atlas HO Code 83 and Code 100 track: Literally, the code of a piece of track is the height of the rail in thousandths of an inch (meaning code 83 rail is .083" high; code 100 rail is .100" high). The significant difference lies in the physical appearance of the two types of track. Atlas Code 83 track has fine, brown ties whereas Code 100 has slightly thicker black ties. Because of its accuracy (and the color of the ties), Code 83 is more prototypical, and therefore more realistic than Code 100. Code 83 is known as a finer-scale track, and is the choice of discerning modelers. Atlas carries a full line of both Code 100 and Code 83 products. (There are fewer problems with code 100 & its more economical for the new Model Railroader)
The smaller rails are often used for branch lines and the larger codes are for mainlines. This is often the way they appear in the prototype (real life), so you can simulate that on your layout if you wish. A caveat to this is that you have to make sure that when you make the transition between different codes on the same layout, you have to line up the rails properly so there won’t be any derailments.
Model railroad track is sold as sectional track, i.e., small sections of either straight track or curved track that come in 2-3 different standard radii, or as flextrack, a very flexible 3 ft piece of track that can be curved to whatever radius you want. Sectional track, but not flextrack, can also be purchased with or without roadbed attached.





Digital command control (DCC) is a newer form of model railroad wiring and train control in which each locomotive can be separately controlled from one power unit or from one walk around throttle.
Each locomotive has to be fitted with a special decoder device programmed to accept signals from the power (or control) unit when that particular decoder is “dialed in” from the control unit.  For more info on this, come in and see us.

Accessories
The lighting for structures, signals, street lamps, etc. is usually accomplished with AC current which may or may not require a separate transformer from the one you use to control trains, depending on your specific power unit.  Most transformers have an AC and DC portal (screws) on the back or side. There are too many brands to name although a few are Woodland Scenics, Minitronics, Techtronics, Rail King, etc.

Types of model trains
Steam: A steam locomotive is a locomotive powered by a steam system of tubes. The term usually refers to its use on railways, but can also refer to a "road locomotive" such as a traction engine or steamroller.  Model steam engines are all electric although any scales HO and larger have the option of adding smoke fluid or pellet for the real effect.
Diesel: A Diesel train is a type of railroad locomotive, which is powered by a Diesel engine. Several types have been developed, the distinction being  how the Diesel mechanical power is conveyed to the driving wheels (drivers).
Electric: An electric locomotive is a locomotive powered by electricity from an external source. Sources include overhead lines or third rail.

Categories of model trains by service   

Passenger: A passenger train is one, which includes passenger-carrying vehicles. It may be a self-powered multiple unit or several rail cars together, or else a combination of one or more locomotives and one or more unpowered trailers known as coaches, cars or carriages. Passenger trains travel between stations or depots, at which passengers may board and disembark. In most cases, passenger trains operate on a fixed schedule and have superior track occupancy rights over freight trains.

Streamliner: A streamliner is any vehicle that incorporates streamlining to produce a more stylish shape that provides less resistance to air. The term is most often applied to certain high-speed railway trains of the 1930s to 1950s, and to their successor "bullet trains"    
                                                                                                                 
Freight: A freight train is a group of freight cars hauled by one or more locomotives on a railway, ultimately transporting cargo between two points as part of the logistics chain. Trains may haul bulk material, inter-modal containers, general freight or specialized freight in purpose-designed cars.

Types of model railroad cars 
Hoppers, Covered Hoppers; Gondolas; Tank cars; Refrigerator cars; Boxcars; Automobile transporters; Inter-modal transporters; Flatcars; Livestock cars & Cabooses.


What do the numbers mean?
These numbers are used for the classification of steam locomotives. For example- 0-4-0, 4-4-0, 2-8-2, 4-6-6-4, etc.
-The 1st number is the number of leading wheels. These wheels support the front of the boiler and guide the locomotive along the track.
-The 2nd (or middle) number is the number of drivers. These wheels are connected together and to the cylinders with rods to transfer the power from the steam to the rails. They also support the bulk of the locomotive.
-The last number is the number of axles in the trailing truck. These wheels support the cab and firebox, where the fuel is burned.
-On Diesel locomotives 4 wheel (2 axle) are called B trucks, 6 wheel (3 axle) are C trucks.

About Paints & Terms

In store we carry two types of paints, Acrylics and Enamels.
                                            
Acrylics: Acrylic paint is fast-drying paint containing pigment suspended in an acrylic polymer emulsion. Acrylic paints can be diluted with water, but become water-resistant when dry. Acrylic artist paints may be thinned with water and used as washes

Enamels: Enamel paints are oil based paints. These paints require a longer drying time and they are water and soap resistant

Wash: A wash is a painting technique in which a paint brush that is very wet with solvent and holds a small paint load is applied to a wet or dry support

Drybrush: Drybrush is a painting technique in which a paint brush that is relatively dry, but still holds paint, is used. The resulting brush strokes have a characteristic scratchy look that lacks the smooth appearance that washes or blended paint commonly has.

Tools: These are very important, as with any tools, its best to have the correct one for the job you need to accomplish. Your most important tools will be: Track cutters, wire cutter/strippers, hobby knife and replacement blades, light gear oil, needle nosed pliers, track cleaning eraser, extra wire in at least three different colours, hot glue gun, stiff bristle paint brush, set of jewelers screwdrivers, fine to extra fine sandpaper, patience and a sense of humor.


Chinook & Hobby West would love to help you make the most of your Model Railroading experience.  Come and visit us at 5011 MacLeod Tr. SW. Calgary, AB. 
Email hobbywest@shaw.ca. We are open 10-6 pm weekdays, 10-6 Saturdays, closed Sundays and Holidays. 

Chinook & Hobby West carries N, HO and O scale trains in store.  Any other scales that come in collections, we put on our ebay site.  Our eBay handle is gossamer13


Next week: Throttle up Thursday begins! Once a month we'll be featuring a model train enthusiast. 

Chinook & Hobby West
"Where the Fun Begins!"
ph: 403-243-1997
email: hobbywest@shaw.ca
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ChinookAndHobbyWest
Twitter: @HobbyAndToy
Pinterest:https://www.pinterest.com/hobbymum

Thursday, 31 August 2017

Welcome to Model Railroading - Part 1

Welcome to Model Railroading - 

Model railroading is a fascinating hobby and has been dubbed by many as the “World’s Greatest Hobby”.   It is very versatile and incorporates many learning opportunities and is so fun for all ages. It includes creativity with sculpturing, painting, airbrushing, decorating and landscaping, and encourages scientific exploration of electronics, physics, mechanics, engineering and architecture, all combined with humor, friendship, family activities, social interaction, and the great sense of accomplishment.

Things to consider before starting:
  • Space – plan out how big your layout can be, within the room you have available. Keep in mind that you need to get to all points that has track. So you may want to consider a U shape or a hole in the middle that you can get to any track should you need to.
  • Scale- this goes with the Space point. If you have outdoor space, you may want to model in G or O, in a small to large room HO, or for a really small space N. There are other scales too.
  • Budget- plan to spend on the materials for the table, base, roadbed and track first. Then some model train pieces, buildings and landscaping. This will also prevent you from getting overwhelmed with too much to do.
  • Tips- if you are interested in using long flat bed cars, passenger cars or other long cars you need to make allowance for large radius curves or they will derail. Come and visit us for great beginner guidebooks and guidance in planning.

Model trains come in various scales (gauges):
Ø  Z 1:220 (with all the letters identifying gauges Z became the smallest so they used the last letter in the alphabet)
Ø  N  (rails are Nine mm apart- hence the N) 1:160 **
Ø  HO  (Half O or ‘aitch oh’) 1:87  **
Ø  OO  - 1:76 runs on HO track and is the British version of HO
Ø  S   scale 1:64
Ø  O   (was referred as zero (or 0h) gauge) 1:48**
Ø  G (Garden) 1:20.3 to 1:32
Ø  There are many more gauges, although they are important to die-hard railroaders, we will not be listing them here.  You can ask Rob, or Robby about those.

Gauge refers to the width of the track, measured between the railheads.  Different from scale, which is proportion to life-size.
At present, Chinook & Hobby West carries three Scales of Model Trains for Sale:  
**O scale, HO Scale, and N scale.   Any other scales that come in collections, we put on our ebay site.  Our eBay handle is gossamer13


Next week: Learn about different track, buildings, painting and more!


Chinook & Hobby West
"Where the Fun Begins!"
ph: 403-243-1997
email: hobbywest@shaw.ca
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ChinookAndHobbyWest
Twitter: @HobbyAndToy
Pinterest:https://www.pinterest.com/hobbymum


Friday, 29 July 2016

I've Laid The Benchwork For My Train...... Now What???

Believe it or not many people get stuck on what to do after they've made the benchwork for their train layout.  Some want to just start putting their track right on the wood..... STOP! DON'T DO IT!

First plan out if you have any hard to reach places on your layout. Unless you have a long arms reach, you may want to plan to put mountains, or a town, or something that doesn't require your constant attention. Ask yourself, if I have to clean the track in that area or get my derailed train, how easy will it be?

Next cover all the top surface with a layer of styrofoam. It can be the regular white sheets, but the blue or pink used for insulation is the best and doesn't leave little round bits when you cut it.




You can use the foam to carve rivers and gullies, build up pieces for easy mountains, and as for trees? Just stick them right in the foam! By using the foam you're going to have an easier time with many aspects of the layout.

Now, this is when you plan your track out, don't glue anything down yet though as you need to plan out buildings and scenery too.

For this stage in planning, paper is your best friend! Cut squares out for approximate building base sizes, circles where you may want a forest, strips for roads and rivers, etc.  Yes, this seems like work, just keep in mind that this will help you have a successful and running layout that you will enjoy. How crappy would it be if you were just laying things down and your track dead ended at a building or you have no place for that really neat roundhouse?  Make sure to design your track plan too.

One of our guys, Tyler has a fantastic layout and he did three posts for you to check out and get guidance and ideas from. Check them out:


  1. An HO Layout In Progress
  2. Thompson River Canyon Blog Edition 2
  3. Thompson River Canyon Blog Edition 3
  4. Thompson River Route Blog 4 (this is labeled as 5, but is part 4)


Now it's your turn!  What questions can we help answer?  Do you have photos to share with us? We love to see/share layout photos.  Let us know how we can help you get further in your hobby.

Email us

Thank for reading our blog and Happy Hobbying!



Thursday, 14 July 2016

5 Tips for Beginner Locomotive Maintenance

5 Tips for Basic Locomotive Maintenance

First things first: Make sure to have a suitable hobby area to work at. If you're  working on small scales such as N or HO scale you’ll need about 24 in by 24 in space.  If it’s a larger scale such as O or G you’ll need much more space. Oh, and ask permission before using the dining room table…… interrupting mealtime or getting hobby grease on the heirloom table may not go over so well with other members of the household.


(This is Robby's hobby desk space - good light, hard work surface, simple table)

Second: Now that you have a work-space, make sure you have the proper tools. Also check to see if the manufacturer included any information on proper care and maintenance of your piece. 
(Suggested LIST OF TOOLS)-Light oil, paper towel or small weave rag or cotton buds, wheel/track cleaner or wheel cleaning kit.

Third: now you’re ready to start!  Remember that routine maintenance will help your model train to run its best and hopefully prevent any major repairs down the road. On the majority of Locomotives  light oil on the motor & wheel bearings, and a light grease in/on the gears may be needed- make sure that it is plastic compatible (Labelle & Woodland Scenics both have great light oil). Make sure to look at your manufactures instructions / specifications as they may have different requirements and may need something specific.




Take your time with this as a little goes a long way - 1 drop of oil per bearing or crankpin is usually enough (sometimes more than enough...), and a very little bit of grease on the gears.  Don't glob everything on there - you'll just have to clean it off later anyway (or it'll leak onto the track work and make a mess).  Have some paper towel or fine weave rag to help clean up excess and/or spills.

Forth: pay attention to your wheels! Dirt build up on wheels spreads back to the rails and can cause electrical pick-up problems. Excessive dirt on the wheels themselves can even cause a derailment.  There are some great cleaners and ‘helping hands’ when it comes to cleaning the wheels of your model train. We’ve done two previous articles on this and they’ll be listed below for you to check out too. 

If you run your finger along the wheel (where it meets the track) and your finger gets dirty, it’s time to clean the wheels.  Take a cotton bud and dip it in your track cleaner. Run it around the wheel until the bud comes clean. Make sure to remove any cotton left behind so it doesn’t get into your gears later.  You can do this with a fine weave cloth too.





Watch the Video for the Roto Wheel Cleaner CLICK HERE


Some locomotives have Traction Tires, it’s like a tiny elastic band of rubber on the wheels; make sure it’s not stretched, worn or broken. If it is then the tire can’t grip the wheel of the train so it will hesitate or not move. These can be bought/ordered from your local hobby shop. 

DON’T FORCE A LOCOMOTIVES WHEELS TO TURN! You can wreck the trucks, gears or worse! Be patient and if you’re uncertain, bring it to a hobby shop that has trained repair people!

Fifth: make sure your track has been cleaned too. Some people forget that cleaning the track, at least monthly, is important for a smooth running model train!

If you have done all the above and your train is still having issues, it could be the motor. Most common motor failures:
         a) no lubrication to motor bearings/bushings- motor either does not run            or squeaks loudly.
         b) over lubrication - oil/grease is everywhere causing debris to collect on the motor, retaining motor heat and fowling armature-brush contact.
         c) when motor brushes are replaced on the motor make sure it is cleaned & lubed, carbon dust from the old brush set is not cleaned from armature and motor housing.
         d) dirty or pitted motor armature
         e) worn brushes
         f) rust caused by moisture, which deposit on motor armature, armature
         shaft, motor bearings and brush holder


There are many books and articles available with so much information. Take your time when cleaning your locomotive and if you're in doubt, take it to a hobby shop that specializes in train repairs. Most of the time, they will be glad to show you some tips!


If you enjoyed this article and/or if you have a comment or something to share, please leave it below.  Also, make sure to check out our Website, Facebook and YouTube Channel for inspiration, learning and fun!


BONUS: For more info about wheels and wheel cleaning check out these great posts to learn more  “Replacing Model Train Wheels” and “Simple Wheel Cleaners For Model Trains”.


Thanks for reading this blog post. Please subscribe so you don't miss a posting. Train posts are every other week and alternate with our model and toy posts.

Happy Hobbying!




Thursday, 25 February 2016

Model Railroading Scales - What Do the Letters Mean?


     Model railroading is fascinating and has been dubbed by many as the “World’s Greatest Hobby”.   It is very versatile and incorporates many learning opportunities and is so much fun for all ages. It includes creativity with sculpturing, painting, airbrushing, decorating and landscaping, and encourages scientific exploration of electronics, physics, mechanics, engineering and architecture, all combined with humour, friendship, family activities, social interaction, and the great sense of accomplishment.

Many people who visit us ask if there is significance to the letter referral to different size trains; N, HO, O, G, etc.  The answer is YES!!  We've compiled a list of all the scales and why they were named with that letter designation.

Please leave a comment after you've read this post and let us know what your thoughts on gauge and scale are and if this was helpful to you or not.




T - Ø 1:450 (referred to as 'Tiny' or 'Tokyo' as it was introduced at the Tokyo Toy Show in 2006)

ZZ - Ø 1:300 (Until the 2006 announcement of T scale, ZZ scale was the smallest commercially available scale for model railroads)

Z - Ø  1:220 (with all the letters identifying gauges Z became the smallest so they used the last letter in the alphabet)


N - Ø 1:160 (track gauge is 9mm, the N stands for Nine mm)

2mm - Ø 1:152 (similar in size to the slightly larger British N scale at 1:148 and the slightly smaller European/American N scale at 1:160; it predates both versions of N scale)

TT - Ø 1:120 (referred to as Table Top as it fit so easily on coffee tables)

3mm - Ø 1:101 (also known as 3 mm finescale, is a model railway scale of 3 mm: 1ft used for British prototypes. Introduced as British TT gauge)

OOØ 1:76 (Runs on HO track and is the British counterpart)

HOn3 - Ø 1:87 (The "n" in HOn3 stands for 'narrow gauge', HOn3 is still HO scale)

HO - Ø 1:87 (Half O or ‘aitch oh’)

S - Ø 1:64 (First named Standard Gauge then to represent that Scale that was half of 1 gauge which was built to 1:32 scale)

On3 - Ø 1:48 (is narrow gauge O scale)

O - Ø 1:48 (was referred as zero (or 0h) gauge)

G - Ø  1:22.5 ( G stands for Garden)

Live Steam - Ø  1:2, 1:4 or 1:3 scale  (Ridable, large-scale, powered by steam)


Gauge refers to the width of the track, measured between the railheads.  Different from scale, which is proportion to life-size.


At present, Chinook & Hobby West carries three Scales of Model Trains for Sale:  O scale, HO Scale, and N scale.  This article was researched through Atlas, Kato, NMRA and Bachmann.



Monday, 23 June 2014

Building A Road

Would you like to include a road or sidewalk on your layout or diorama?  We have great kits for beginners to experts that give great finished looks.

We know we have a kit that's ideal for you!  Make sure to come down and see us for more info and techniques.

Our first kit is for Beginners or great for school projects:

 the Woodland Scenics Road Kit for building roads and sidewalks on our layouts and dioramas.  Its easy, fast, a good price and looks great when finished!


Woodland Scenics has also released a great video to demonstrate just how easy this kit is to use:
Click Here to view
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Our other kit is for Intermediate to expert:

Road System Learning Kit

LK952

Modelers learn to easily add roads and other paved areas to any layout. The kit contains illustrated instructions and enough of the following products to build a roadway approximately 3" x 4' (7.62 cm x 121 cm): Smooth-It™, Paving Tape™ and Spreader, Asphalt Top Coat™ and the Top Coat applicator.


Here is another great video to help you bring this Road System kit to life for you:
Click Here to view
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Are you looking to add more realism to your road?  Check these out!

Paving Tape™

ST1455

Use this adhesive-backed foam tape to create straight-edged forms for paving, even on curves. Use to model streets, roads, sidewalks and parking lots. Easy to apply and remove. Includes Spreader. Roll 1/4" w x 1/16" h x 30' l (6 mm x 1.5 mm x 9.14 m) makes a road approximately 15 feet long (4.57 m).


Top Coat™ Concrete

ST1454

Top Coat Concrete is a non-toxic, water-soluble compound used to simulate the color of concrete road surfaces. Brush-on application. 4 fl oz (118 mL)
One bottle will cover approximately 9 to 12 square feet.


Top Coat™ Asphalt

ST1453

Top Coat Asphalt is a non-toxic, water-soluble compound used to simulate the color of blacktop road surfaces. Brush-on application. 4 fl oz (118 mL)
One bottle will cover approximately 9 to 12 square feet.


Smooth-It™ (1 qt.)

ST1452

Smooth-It is a plaster material that is used to smooth rough spots, create streets, roads and parking lots. Mix with water and apply directly to any clean hard surface. Covers 26' by 3" by 1/4" (HO Scale - two-lane highway).

Road Striping Pen - Yellow

C1292

Easily stripe roads, parking lots, crosswalks and other paved areas. Road Striping Pens make precise and opaque, realistic markings and dries quickly. Works for scales N through O. Use with Flexi Edge™ to create accurately scaled stripes and lines. 1/pkg and includes extra tip.


Road Stripe Remover

C1293

Use with Road Striping Pen - White and Road Striping Pen - Yellow to correct striping errors easily. Removes paint from Top Coat™ painted surfaces, leaving no residue. 1/pkg


The Scenery Manual

C1207

The most popular and comprehensive scenery manual available. Anyone can make beautiful, realistic scenery, and this manual will show you how. The spiral-bound Scenery Manual is loaded with various tips, techniques, ideas and instructions for using more than Woodland Scenics products to model realistic scenery. 170 pages contains hundreds of full-color photos and illustrations. Includes a 22 page addendum featuring the new terrain products.

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Thanks for checking out our blog, we hope you enjoyed this article.  Please leave a comment and let us know if this article was helpful.

Happy Hobbying!

From the gang at Chinook & Hobby West
403-243-1997

Friday, 6 December 2013

Guide to a Simple Train Around the Christmas Tree

Since the first model train came into existence (Lionel in Germany in the 1830's) , kids and adults alike have dreamed of a Train around the Christmas Tree. It has become a special Holiday Tradition in many homes.



Remember the simple track you used when you were a kid?  Remember the train stopping or not running properly around the tree?  This was most likely because of all the dust, pet fur and other nasty surprises that can get drawn into the wheels and gears of the Locomotive.
 The train sets today have EZ Track (HO & N scale sets) or FasTrack (O scale sets) so you can put the track directly on the floor or on fabric and not have to worry too much about this problem. Although learning to maintain your locomotive is a good idea. Cleaning the wheels and gears weekly if you run it frequently, just to have that uninterrupted level of fun!

N & HO EZ-Track, O Lionel FasTrack

So let's get to why you are here:  Setting up a Simple track and train around your Christmas Tree!
Things You'll Need:

  • Electric Train Set, with  track and power pack (choose a scale suited for the area you have- the most popular are HO (1:87 scale), O (1:48 scale), and G (1:22.5 - 1:25)
  • piece of plywood (optional)
  • Christmas Tree with a stand


  1. Your Train - After a year in storage, your trains may need a little cleaning. In addition to brushing off the dust, the track and wheels need to be thoroughly cleaned. Older, steel track is prone to rusting if stored in humid locations. If your track shows signs of rust, save your time and just replace it. Clean wheels with paper towels and cleaning fluids.
    After extended periods in storage, it may be necessary to disassemble, clean and re-oil locomotive gearboxes. Do not over-lubricate.  (If you bring in your Train, we can teach you how to do this. There is no cost unless replacement parts are needed) Check power supplies and wires for any signs of wear or distress. Replace if needed.  There are many different sets with Steam and Diesel Locomotives, in different scales to choose from should you need to purchase one.
  2. Track - See how much track you have (most sets for HO come with a minimum of a 36" circle or 36"x 48" oval- which is usually enough for a simple 'around the tree' layout). Most O scale sets come with a 40"x 60" oval- but check the box first!)  When adding more track into your oval or circle, you MUST add two.  Meaning, if you add a rerailer track that's 9" to one side, you must add an equal size to the opposite side so the layout doesn't bend and break. This is the same for curves.  If your track does not have roadbed built into it, place down a piece of plywood first.                                                       
  3. Measure the area from the base of the tree out to make sure you have enough track for around the base of the tree. Keep in mind where the presents will go.  We usually have a space to either side of the track (on the outside) so we can run the train while opening gifts.                                                              
  4. Keep It Simple - If you are only running the train for the Christmas Season, keep your track plan simple (to an oval or circle). If you want it a little more than just the traditional track plan, try these: 
    HO  Oval with incline

    HO  or O  plan

    Twice Around The Tree plan

    Twice Around The Tree Finished in O scale

    For small tree - HO scale plan.     For a larger tree- O or G scale plan

  5. Assembling the Track and Testing the Train - Assemble the track, Make sure your electrical connector track is in an accessible position with the wire hookups facing the outer rim of the track circle.
    Connect the power pack to the track as directed by the instructions and test the flow of current using the model engine. Make sure it can circle the track at half speed without hitting a bump or falling off.
    Test the train one more time before putting the tree in place and decorating.                                          
  6. Make it Kid Friendly - Christmas trains are meant to be enjoyed by all ages, and they are a great introduction into the hobby for children. One easy way to make any model train display more kid-friendly is to make them part of the action. In addition to running the trains, kids will want to help build and decorate the layout. Incorporating kid's toys into the display is a great way to make it personal and still keep a holiday feel.                                                                                                                         
  7. Cleaning - If your trains are running beneath a Christmas tree, you'll probably find yourself pulling needles off the tracks by the end of the season. There is no great secret to keeping needles off the tracks (even an artificial tree will probably lose a few.) 
    Make sure you can reach all the way around the tree to clean. Make sure vacuming needles won't result in losing other scenic material or details.
    One additional concern for under-tree-trains is the power supply. Make sure your electrical circuit can handle the needs of both the trains and the tree lights. And make sure the cords for both don't interfere with the tracks.
  8. Packing and Storing

    ©2010 Ryan C Kunkle, licensed to About.com, Inc.
    Next year's display begins when you put this year's away.
    • Before you pack, take the time to clean track and wheels again.
    • Pack trains, tracks, power supplies and all accessories carefully. Use original boxes if possible.
    • Store your trains in a dry place. Store fragile items where they will be safe.
    • If possible, give your locomotive a brief break-in run periodically throughout the year.

Some Final Tips to keep in mind:

  • The lower branches of your tree will need to be trimmed up to allow enough room for the train to circle as well.
  • The temptation may be to get a big train with lots of buildings, switches, figures and lights, but under a Christmas tree, limited space makes this impractical.
  • For the same reasons, a Christmas train should be limited to a single engine and four cars.
  • If your train set comes with securely locking tracks, you can avoid using plywood as long as the track will stay steady (for example, on a hard wood floor). Carpeting can create problems.
  • If your train wobbles or comes off the track easily, disassemble the rail cars and glue weights inside to keep pressure on the track.
  • Experiment with speed, but remember, a train flying around the track will also fly right off.
  • If children will be operating the train, very young kids may have more success with a larger train gauge like 0 or G. It will be easier for them to hook the cars and place them on the track.
  • While the voltage of a train power pack is not great enough to cause real damage, you should use a watering can with a long spout if you are using a live or cut tree. Water can damage the train and cause a short.


Thank you for reading our blog. Please feel free to leave a comment or email us a comment. 
Also check us out on Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and our Website!


Happy Hobbying!



Want to learn more:
First Model Railroad
Maintaining Your Locomotive
Replacing Model Train Wheels
Small Layout Holiday Ideas
Twice Around The Tree- Full Article

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