6 Tips and Ideas to Customize Your Model Kit

So you've built a few model kits and you're ready to up your game and do something unique and different to your piece?

First, go check out your local hobby shop and get some ideas on what you may want to do to upgrade your model. Do you want to custom design and make your own decals? Change the interior? Add something completely different?

Ask yourself if this is for you or to enter in a show and what level you are building at. Be realistic with your skill level and remember with each kit you do, you're going to get better!

Painting is the most common way to make your model stand out. If you're brush painting, make sure to keep your brush strokes going in one direction for a better look.

When customizing your colours be sure to write down how much of each colour you're mixing so you can get an exact match each time. Who knows, someone may want that colour combo and ask you for the mix ratio. Use eyedroppers or pipettes to help with this.

Weathering can really add that "something special" to your custom build. It can make your piece look beat up and rusted or look as if it's just been though the mud. It can be used to create blaster marks on a Sci-fi kit, engine exhaust stains or peeling paint on a car.

It's all in how you use your paint and brush. For example for blaster marks use paint and brush to 'dry brush' the look you want. For a dusty look you can use chalks. Just make sure that after you create the weathered look you desire, seal it with a clear coat of Matte, Semi-Gloss or Gloss. You don't want to ruin that hard work.

Decals are a fun way to customize for beginner to intermediate builders. The majority of kits already have a sheet of decals ideal to your model choice, with sometimes two or three variant choices; But what if you want something unique to your imagination?  Decal sets and paper are just what you're looking for.

Basically decals are layers of paint built up on plastic film with a paper backing.  The glue is usually activated by water.  Your printer may be up to the task of creating your decals.

When using decals make sure to cut as close to the pattern as possible (nail or craft scissors work best for this). Dip your decal in water for the instructions set amount of time and add it to your model. You can use Microset to help the decal settle onto the model more snugly.  There are many articles and YouTube videos on how to use and apply decals. Practice makes perfect in this case.  Even the most expert model builders can have trouble with decals. Just take your time with it.

Finally, consider adding your model onto a Diorama to add dimension and truly get the feeling across to those looking at your creation. They can be as simple or complex as you want them to be. Ask your experienced local hobby shop for tips and ideas.

With the help of your local hobby shop's knowledgeable staff, checking out a few YouTube videos, researching articles like this one and your own imagination, you can create a potential masterpiece from a humble box of plastic and photo-etched parts.

Make sure to read these great blog articles too and share them with a friend:

• 10 Tips For Buying A Model Kit
• Basic Tips For Model Building

• Model Tips for Beginners - Part 2
• Model Kit Building And Painting Tips And Tricks

Please make sure to comment below if you have a tip to share!  Like our blog to get updates on the newest additions. We post every Thursday, alternating Trains and Model/Toys.

Also, make sure to check out our Website, Facebook and YouTube Channel for inspiration, learning and fun!

Thanks for reading

Happy Hobbying

5 Tips for Beginner Locomotive Maintenance

5 Tips for Basic Locomotive Maintenance

First things first: Make sure to have a suitable hobby area to work at. If you're  working on small scales such as N or HO scale you’ll need about 24 in by 24 in space.  If it’s a larger scale such as O or G you’ll need much more space. Oh, and ask permission before using the dining room table…… interrupting mealtime or getting hobby grease on the heirloom table may not go over so well with other members of the household.

(This is Robby's hobby desk space - good light, hard work surface, simple table)

Second: Now that you have a work-space, make sure you have the proper tools. Also check to see if the manufacturer included any information on proper care and maintenance of your piece. 
(Suggested LIST OF TOOLS)-Light oil, paper towel or small weave rag or cotton buds, wheel/track cleaner or wheel cleaning kit.

Third: now you’re ready to start!  Remember that routine maintenance will help your model train to run its best and hopefully prevent any major repairs down the road. On the majority of Locomotives  light oil on the motor & wheel bearings, and a light grease in/on the gears may be needed- make sure that it is plastic compatible (Labelle & Woodland Scenics both have great light oil). Make sure to look at your manufactures instructions / specifications as they may have different requirements and may need something specific.

Take your time with this as a little goes a long way - 1 drop of oil per bearing or crankpin is usually enough (sometimes more than enough...), and a very little bit of grease on the gears.  Don't glob everything on there - you'll just have to clean it off later anyway (or it'll leak onto the track work and make a mess).  Have some paper towel or fine weave rag to help clean up excess and/or spills.

Forth: pay attention to your wheels! Dirt build up on wheels spreads back to the rails and can cause electrical pick-up problems. Excessive dirt on the wheels themselves can even cause a derailment.  There are some great cleaners and ‘helping hands’ when it comes to cleaning the wheels of your model train. We’ve done two previous articles on this and they’ll be listed below for you to check out too. 

If you run your finger along the wheel (where it meets the track) and your finger gets dirty, it’s time to clean the wheels.  Take a cotton bud and dip it in your track cleaner. Run it around the wheel until the bud comes clean. Make sure to remove any cotton left behind so it doesn’t get into your gears later.  You can do this with a fine weave cloth too.

Watch the Video for the Roto Wheel Cleaner CLICK HERE

Some locomotives have Traction Tires, it’s like a tiny elastic band of rubber on the wheels; make sure it’s not stretched, worn or broken. If it is then the tire can’t grip the wheel of the train so it will hesitate or not move. These can be bought/ordered from your local hobby shop. 

DON’T FORCE A LOCOMOTIVES WHEELS TO TURN! You can wreck the trucks, gears or worse! Be patient and if you’re uncertain, bring it to a hobby shop that has trained repair people!

Fifth: make sure your track has been cleaned too. Some people forget that cleaning the track, at least monthly, is important for a smooth running model train!

If you have done all the above and your train is still having issues, it could be the motor. Most common motor failures:
         a) no lubrication to motor bearings/bushings- motor either does not run            or squeaks loudly.
         b) over lubrication - oil/grease is everywhere causing debris to collect on the motor, retaining motor heat and fowling armature-brush contact.
         c) when motor brushes are replaced on the motor make sure it is cleaned & lubed, carbon dust from the old brush set is not cleaned from armature and motor housing.
         d) dirty or pitted motor armature
         e) worn brushes
         f) rust caused by moisture, which deposit on motor armature, armature
         shaft, motor bearings and brush holder


There are many books and articles available with so much information. Take your time when cleaning your locomotive and if you're in doubt, take it to a hobby shop that specializes in train repairs. Most of the time, they will be glad to show you some tips!


If you enjoyed this article and/or if you have a comment or something to share, please leave it below.  Also, make sure to check out our Website, Facebook and YouTube Channel for inspiration, learning and fun!

BONUS: For more info about wheels and wheel cleaning check out these great posts to learn more  “Replacing Model Train Wheels” and “Simple Wheel Cleaners For Model Trains”.

Thanks for reading this blog post. Please subscribe so you don't miss a posting. Train posts are every other week and alternate with our model and toy posts.

Happy Hobbying!

Basic Slot Car Maintenance - Part 3

Make sure to check out Part 1 of our Basic Slot Car Maintenance to learn:

• Fixing track to a Baseboard
• Power drops and breaks
• Testing Lane Change sections

and Part 2:

• Cleaning
• Lubricating the Chassis
• Guide Braid/Blade replacement.

Welcome to the exciting hobby of Slot Cars.  At the beginning it is great fun, until everything starts to hesitate and slow down. That's when you need to look after your setup so you can continue with maximum enjoyment of your Slot Car experience.

You are here to learn abut how to maintain your Slot Car setup before it needs major maintenance (we hope we've caught you in time, lol)

Weather you have a small and simple setup or a 4+ lane for club racing, the proper cleaning routine is needed.

Tire Maintenance

Cleaning the tires gives the greatest amount of benefit to car performance.

Before using these tips, ensure that the track surface is clean and dust free.

For the novice:

• Clean the rear tires with a slightly damp cloth.
• Dry the rear tires.
• Test the car on track.

A good tip is to visually check the colour of the rear tyres. If they are grey (the colour of dust) then they need cleaning. Repeat the process of cleaning and testing until the tires remain black after a track test. Then, the tires are ready to produce the best results.

For the experienced racer:

• Clean the tires with tape (masking or gaffer tape or similar)
• Test the car on track.

For the advanced racer:

• Clean the tires with tape
• Apply 3-in-1 oil (or similar) to the tire surface. Rub it in to the tire surface.
• Gently remove any excess oil from the tire surface. Tires can be moist but not wet.
• Test the car on track.

Tire truing is also recommended for the advanced racer and involves running the rear tyres on a flat surface of sand/glass paper to wear the tyres down to a smooth flat surface where 100% of the contact area touches the track surface.

Magnets & Downforce

What to race : A Super Resistant or Fully Detailed car?

Let's use the Audi R8 GT3 as a comparison. It comes in detailed and super-resistant form. With two cars of the same make,  in super-resistant and detailed build, the differing down-force between each car might influence your choice depedent upon what type of circuit you race on.

The magnets on both cars are the same so why the difference in down-force?
A super-resistant Audi R8 has a weight of 87 gm and a magnet force of 260 gm. This down-force is measured with the magnet fitted to the car. The overall downward weight on the track is, therefore, the force of the weight of the car and magnet together. E.g. 260gms. The magnet accounts for a force of (260-87) 173gms.
A detailed car has a higher weight of 93 gm and a magnet force of 277gms. The magnet added a force of (277-93) 184gms.

The 11gms difference between both cars is accounted for by no two magnets being alike in terms of their magnetic attraction (gauss value). Other factors such as flexibility of the chassis also come into play as does the condition of the track, thickness of the tyres, etc as the distance of magnet from rail is critical and exponential. The magnet being twice as close to the track doesn't mean it's effect is two-fold - it could be tens times stronger! So differences in all of these areas can make significant differences.

From a practical point of view, for racing both cars have good performance. This car does race well and feels sure-footed, even for those racers who prefer to race without a magnet (which is the best way to race in my opinion!).
Pros and cons are:
A light weight super-resistant car is superior on smooth track and/or long straights since it won’t be inclined to de-slot and can accelerate to top speed far quicker than a heavier fully detailed car. For circuits with bumps or only short straights a heavier car is recommended because the extra weight is required to keep the car in the slot and not so much is time is wasted accelerating along short straight lengths of the track.

If you have a car that sticks to the track too much check the underpan to see if the magnet can be moved to a different position. Usually, moving it foward lessens the downforce effect. When you are ready for more of a challenge, try removing the magnet completely. It's interesting to note that most Scalextric clubs ban the use of magnets!

---weights can also be used to increase downforce

Motors - An overview

An overview of Scalextric motors.

Scalextric motors are rigourously tested to help ensure that the Scalextric car is fitted with a motor that has good durability and will give many years of serviceable life without problems.

Is maintenance necessary?

Generally, a Scalextric motor needs no maintenance at all for the average home user. In fact, the car is built so that access to the motor is difficult. This is to comply with toy regulations and means that the motor has to be durable and maintenance free.

Maintenance for the enthusiast.

Enthusiasts may want to ensure that the motor is running at its optimum. Therefore, with chassis removed, it is possible to add a single drop of oil (3-in-1 light oil) to the ends of the motor shaft. Whilst this maintenance is carried out it is also good practice to clean all moving parts such as the pinion and axle gears and the axle bearings and lightly oil these components. Electrical contact cleaner can be used to clean the internal motor brushes but be sure to only carry out this maintenance on a cold motor.

Motor specifications

Scalextric motors are expected to be used at 12 to 15v. In practice they will work up to 18v without much problem. Above 20v seriously shortens the life of a motor.
In basic terms, current draw is 0.5 to 1Amp. However, strength or magnet, weight of car, grip of tyres are but just three factors that effect current draw.
Note that the current draw will only, and can only, be no more than the current available from the power source!
We recommend that only Scalexctric power supplies are used.

The standard Mabuchi S (SP) can motor or Mabuchi slimline motor (FF) fitted to most Scalextric cars are rated at 18,000 r.p.m. measured at 12v.

Performance Motor range

Motors can be changed for higher revving motors. See our Performance Motors range.
This range has 20,000, 25,000 and 30,000 rpm motors available.

Car Tuning

We do not recommend that any tuning is performed on an electric motor other than a spot of oil placed on the external motor shaft bearings - now and again. However, the components that act with a motor to deliver forward motion can be tuned. Adding a higher revving motor doesn't neccessarily mean quicker lap times or a better handling car! Different gear ratios can be used to effect the acceleration and braking of the car to improve the overall balance and performance. This is where tuning becomes more of an art. There are no strict guide lines to say what is best as so much depends upon such elements as driving technique, motor, car balance, tyre grip, track surface, hand controller, gear ratios and shape of track circuit - to name but a few variables - but making changes one step at a time and recording the differences is a steady logical way to go.

-----------------------------------------------------------

Extras

Performance Tyres

The performance range of tyres will fit most Scalextric cars.
Here's a brief guide to indicate which tyres will fit your car for those extra fast lap times.

C8413 - set of 4

Porsche 997
BMW 318Si
Aston Martin DBS
Dodge Viper
Peugeot 908
Nissan 350Z
Ford GT 2004
Nissan Skyline JGTC
Ford Mustang FR500C
Lamborghini Gallardo
Porsche Spyder
Ferrari F430
Maserati MC12
Aston Martin DBR9

C8414 - set of 4

F1, Indy, A1GP cars.

C8415 - set of 4

Chevrolet Camaro
Chevrolet Corvette Stingray
Ford Mustang
Ford Torino
Ferrari 330 P3/P4

C8416 - set of 4

Chaparral 2F
Subaru Impreza
Ford Focus
Peugeot 307
Alfa Romeo 159
Seat Leon
Porsche 911 GT3R

We here at Chinook & Hobby West, would like you to have the maximum fun with your Slot Car set.  Please feel free to come down and talk to us about showing you how to clean and maintain your cars and tracks or to upgrade your cars to Digital.


We carry Scalextric 1:32 scale Slot Cars. We are expanding our selection for the slot car season of 2014-2015 (November to March).


source

Basic Slot Car Maintenance - Part 2

Make sure to check out Part 1 of our Basic Slot Car Maintenance to learn:

• Fixing track to a Baseboard
• Power drops and breaks
• Testing Lane Change sections

Welcome to the exciting hobby of Slot Cars.  At the beginning it is great fun, until everything starts to hesitate and slow down. That's when you need to look after your setup so you can continue with maximum enjoyment of your Slot Car experience.

You are here to learn abut how to maintain your Slot Car setup before it needs major maintenance (we hope we've caught you in time, lol)

Weather you have a small and simple setup or a 4+ lane for club racing, the proper cleaning routine is needed.

Cleaning

Scalextric track

Since the year 2000, Scalextric amended the track design to improve the rigidity of the track and the ease of assembly. It is now possible to simply push two track pieces together in order to connect them, no need for fiddly connectors.

Cleaning Scalextric track

Light cleaning of track surface for daily use: Use a damp cloth or very lightly oiled cloth. This removes light grime and dust from the track surface. Wipe surface dry after using a damp cloth. As matter of good practice, always do this before using the Scalextric layout as this will help ensure you get the best grip from the car tyres.

Older Scalextric track

Track produced before the year 2000 is known as Classic track. It can be identified by the round popper track connectors.

Cleaning Classic track

Light cleaning of track surface for daily use: Use a damp cloth or very lightly oiled cloth. This removes light grime and dust from the track surface. Wipe surface dry after using a damp cloth.

Track rails

Unless kept in perfect conditions, older track rails will acquire quite a dark tarnish to the pick-up rails and this will prevent the right amount of current getting through to the motor. To remove the tarnishing or oxidisation, try a Hornby Railways track rubber to see if some of the surface tarnish can be removed.

Corrosion and heavy tarnishing

Use a mild abrasive material to shine up the running surfaces of the pick-up rails, making sure that the male and female connections at the ends of the track sections are also bright and shiny. Be aware that sometimes no amount of cleaning of heavily corroded rails and connectors will return the track to a useable state and replacement of track in this condition is the only alternative.

Cleaning and Lubricating The Chassis

Scalextric cars do not require additional oiling when used, say, for racing for fun. However, if you wish to improve the performance of your car there are several things you can do.

Top Tip: Lubrication of moving parts.

Level: Beginner - use these instructions if you have basic hobby skills.

Tools required: Small philips screwdriver, small stiff brush, 3-in-1 oil.

1. Remove the chassis from the car body.
2. Use a small stiff brush to remove the dust and dirt from the interior of the chassis
3. Use tweezers or similar to remove debris entangled in the axles and wheels
4. Place one drop of light 3-in-1 oil to each of the axle bearings and to the motor shaft bearings
5. Wipe off any excess oil
6. Re-assemble the chassis to the car body
7. Test the car on track

Level: Expert - Only carry out these steps if you are an experienced hobbyist

Tools required: Small philips screwdriver, small stiff brush, tweezers, 3-in-1 oil.

1. Remove the chassis from the car body
2. Remove dust and dirt from the interior of the chassis
3. Remove impacted or loose debris at the axles, wheels, bearings, gears and, very importantly, between each tooth of the motor pinion gear and main axle gear wheel

Place one drop of light 3-in-1 oil to:

1. each of the axle bearings
2. the motor shaft bearings
3. guide blade shaft (remove guide blade screw)
4. thread of each chassis screw (during re-assembly)
5. Wipe off any excess oil
6. Re-assemble the chassis to the car body. Tighten the body screws fully (do not over-tighten) then back off the screw by one complete turn to leave the chassis slightly loose to the car body. This may not be appropriate for open wheel cars, but as a general rule this will improve performance. Test the car and adjust the screwn tightness accordingly.
7. Test the car on track

Guide Braid/Blade Replacement

What is the guide and braid?

The guide is normally a small 'keel' (but can be a pin as used in Micro Scalextric) which runs in the track slot and guides the car around the track layout.

The braid is fitted to the slot guide blade assembly. It allows electrical power to pass from the track rails, up through the braids and into the car to power the lights, motor and, if fitted, a digital chip, etc.

With regular use, the braid will eventually wear out and will need to be replaced. Regular maintenance and care can see a braid last for the life of the car.

To keep the braid in good repair:

• always clean them with a small stiff brush (an old toothpaste brush is ideal)
• ensure that the braids are flat against the guide and not angled down
• ensure that the braids are positioned so that they are in line with the track slot rails.

Replacing the braid

Since 1990, an easy-fit system has been used and most Scalextric cars have a very simple push-fit method of replacing the braid.

Replacing the guide blade:

Guide blades do not wear out and will only need replacing in the event of breakage. The easy-fit guide blade can be replaced from the exterior of the car without the need for tools. The recent C8329 round guide blade requires a screwdriver to gain access to the interior of the car to release the guide blade retaining screw.

We carry Scalextric 1:32 scale Slot Cars. We are expanding our selection for the slot car season of 2014-2015 (November to March).


source

Basic Slot Car Maintenance - Part 1

Welcome to the exciting hobby of Slot Cars.  At the beginning it is great fun, until everything starts to hesitate and slow down. That's when you need to look after your setup so you can continue with maximum enjoyment of your Slot Car experience.

You are here to learn abut how to maintain your Slot Car setup before it needs major maintenance (we hope we've caught you in time, lol)

Weather you have a small and simple setup or a 4+ lane for club racing, the proper cleaning routine is needed.

Fixing Track to a Baseboard

Ideally, it is best not to nail, screw or glue the track to a base board at all. The reason for this is that plastic and metal, the two ingredients of Scalextric track, expand and contract at different rates. So, on hot days the plastic will expand larger than the rail. Of course, the rail won't let the plastic expand evenly due to the rail gripping the plastic. This causes the track surface to warp.

When the track is laid loose the circuit can 'grow' and absorb any expansion due to heat. If the track is not allowed to move freely (ie nailed down) then any expansion will only lead to uneven surfaces.

If the layout is to lay flat, leave the track loose. Keep the layout in a dry and constant temperature room. This normally means that the loft, shed and garage are not good places.

Power Drops and Breaks

The most often asked question is 'My car has stopped on the track. What has broken?'

The most common (1 =most common) reasons that this might happen are:

1. The track piece that the car is resting on has no electrical power due to bad track connections.
2. The car motor has expired or their is a mechanical reason within the car that is stopping the motor from turning (e.g. tyre jammed against wheel arch).
3. A guide braid has come out.
4. The hand controller is not plugged in to the power base fully.
5. The electrical power switch is turned off.
6. The car has developed a fault.
7. The hand controller has broken.
8. A motor wire has broken.
9. The power base has broken.
10. The power base is not connected to the power supply.
11. The power supply lead is broken.
12. The power supply has broken.

Here's how to cure the most common problem of electrical power problems on the track - No 1 above.

When the following procedure has been completed you should be able to race cars at full speed on tracks of up to 200 feet or more without any practical electrical problems.

Power jumper cables can be used on 'analogue' or digital track circuits. Note, though, that a power jumper cable only hides a bad track connection and, ultimately, it is better to fix the track problem than add power jumper cables.

Question: There are power breaks or weak power sections on the Scalextric layout. How can this be repaired?

Answer:When a car stops on circuit this can indicate TWO breaks in electrical continuity since electricity travels in both directions around the track. If there was only one break then you would not notice it as electricity flows in both direction!

The way to correct this problem is to:

• Disconnect the track behind the power base.
• Then drive a car forward at a slow speed. When the car crosses from one piece of track to the next there should not be a drop in power/speed.
• If there is a drop or loss in power, then fix the track connection. Disconnect both track pieces (the track piece immediately before and after the fault). Turn them over on a hard surface. Ensure that the metal rail tabs at the ends of the rails (there are 8 of them on every track piece) are fully pressed and clamped down to the plastic. Use a stout screwdriver or similar to push them tight.
• Watch this video on how to do this Track tab maintenance.
• Reconnect the repaired track pieces and retest by placing the car back at the power base and again drive the car slowly forward until you meet the next reduced or lost power section.
• Continue the above repair process until you get to the last track piece before the power base.
• Reconnect the last track piece to the power base.
• Full power should now be restored.

Testing Lane Change Sections

In the event that a lane change track piece fails to operate follow this simple procedure:

• Disconnect the lane change track piece and check that the rail connections are all good. See other Top Tips feature regarding track connections and loss of power.
• Check that there are no obstructions in the slot preventing the flipper from physically moving. It should 'flip' freely.
• Ensure that the track piece hasn't been bent (stood on, for instance) which will also cause the flipper to jam.
• Reconnect the track piece and turn power on.
• Manually move the flipper in to the position which would cause the car to change lane. Manually push a car over the track lane change sensor (this is a round hole about one car length before the flipper). The flipper should flip back to the 'straight ahead' position.
• The lane change track piece should be usable if the above procedures have not identified any problems.

We carry Scalextric 1:32 scale Slot Cars. We are expanding our selection for the slot car season of 2014-2015 (November to March).


source

Basic Tips For Figure Painting

– From Chinook & Hobby West

1.      Wash all plastic parts in a grease cutting soap to remove oils and release agents.

2.      Inspect, clean, trim and sand as needed.

3.      Prime with white or gray so features stand out.

4.      Plan out your colours for your project.

5.      Paint basic colours. Go from light to dark. Paint flesh & eyes, white, tan, etc.

6.      Select colour wash in dark versions of your painted piece. Brown for flesh, Navy for uniforms, black for battle worn.  Dilute paint with water or thinner at a one to one mixture.

7.      Do highlights and lowlights, as needed using dry brushing.

8.      Seal your piece by spraying with dullcote (matte finish), glosscote or preference.

9.      Glue (or place if movable) onto your diorama.

Remember

• Take your time
• Be patient – Mistakes can be fixed
• HAVE FUN!!!