Maintaining Action Figures Clothing

Most of these tips are for cloth figure clothing.  These tips are by our opinion and we are not responsible for damages when trying these tips.

Steaming

Invest in a travel steamer or an iron with a steam function.  Get the type that looks like an upright canister with a side handle and a venting attachment at the top. Using this little miracle tool you can make uniforms look really sharp. It also will steam clean surface dust and help to upgrade the look of a cloth uniform. Regular ironing will scorch the fabric and leave shiny marks.  Work carefully and pull the cloth taut as you go. Hold the surface to be done between both hands and run it over the vents to "steam press" the garment. Holding it a little tightly helps. It takes a little practice and you'll probably get a couple of steamed fingers the first time out. Just work carefully and take your time.

Starching

Capes, berets and some other looser clothing needs some help keeping its shape. Try spraying it with diluted (1:1) starch, carefully forming the beret while on the figures head and letting it air dry. The item isn't rock-hard or anything it just stays where you put it now.

A way to form cloth berets, without a great deal of effort, to look like the way most soldiers wear them today. You'll need a bottle of Paul Mitchell Fast Drying Sculpting Spray or something similar.

1. Put the Beret on your figure and form it how you like.
2. Spray carefully and saturate the beret. Try to limit the spray just to the beret material.
3. Use a tooth pick or bamboo skewer to hold the beret in the shape you desire (you could stuff the item or make a form for it) to keep your fingers from sticking to the item as it dries.

Once dried, it's not sticky and not noticeable. 

Dyeing

The following alternatives work well on all cotton cloth:

1. A good dye to use is a VAT dye which will turn the fabric black (or whatever color you want) & will never come out. This dye is a bit caustic to use but works quick and lasts forever.
2. For a dye that is less caustic,use a Procyonb dye (sometimes known as cold-dyes). These dyes require much more soaking but are still permanent.

If you're going dye natural leather, use the Fiebing's Oil based dyes. The Tandy dyes are alcohol based and tend to leech the natural oils out of the leather causing it to crack on you after a short time. The Fiebing's, being oil based, doesn't do this, and is actually a little more resilient and produces a finish that's easier to apply evenly.

Sewing

Many problems seen in action figure clothing is the fabric unravelling (usually behind a seam). To prevent this, you "overcast the seam" which means setting the sewing machine on zig zag and sewing the hidden edge of the fabric on the inside. 

Use one little stitch to hold the collars down so they don't curl up.

You can use 1.2 mm brass nails for realistically sized buttons. Stick them through the material, cut of the excess (most of the nail) and add a drop or two of fabric tac. 

Gluing

Having trouble glueing those little fabric insignia's to the fabric uniforms of your 12" figures?  Aleene's Original Tacky Glue comes in a gold-colored squeeze bottle with a white top. It dries clear, and more significantly, flexible. So the insignia's won't peel off the figure when you move them around.

When glueing fabric to plastic, if you use modeling cement (either tube or liquid type), it will dissolve or soften the plastic you're working with.  If you use this, make sure you apply it to the piece of plastic, and not the cloth! 

Superglues (cyanoacrylates) are probably the best thing there is for attaching buckles or straps onto a model permanently. It will set instantly if applied to anything natural like cotton or skin. If you're attaching straps or buckles, be sure to only apply a tiny dot exactly where the cloth attaches or it wil make the entire strap stiff. 

Washing

Here's how to get those garments white and bright again. You need to buy two things:

• Softscrub With Bleach (the lemon version won't work)
• Efferdent denture cleaning tablets

1. Use a tupperware container large enough to lay the uniform flat.
2. Wet the piece of clothing and put it in the container.
3. Shake the Softscrub then apply it all over the item using a soft paintbrush.
4. Wait about five minutes then add warm water to the container so that it covers the uniform by about and inch.
5. Squirt some more Softscrub down on it and let it soak about 20-30 minutes - no longer.
6. Now take out the garment and rinse well under warm water.
7. Rinse out your container WELL and put about an inch and 1/2 of warm (not hot) water in it.
8. Pop in two or three Efferdent tablets and place your garment flat in the container.
9. Leave it in there overnight - about eight hours.
   Don't worry if the garment gets looking blue; it will go away in a couple of hours in the bath. It's removing any of the chlorine from the bleach and the baking soda and the Efferdent will really brighten the whites. You want all the chlorine gone because it would eventually yellow the garment. That's why using straight bleach isn't a good idea unless you Efferdent afterwards.
10. Take out and rinse. If it still isn't white or bright enough-try the Efferdent bath again.
11. Then rinse it well. You can use a "salad spinner" to spin all the excess water out.
12. Dry flat.

To remove magic marker, try rubbing alcohol. Pour through the fabric from the back. This works well on some markers and pens.

Next week: Hmmm not sure.  Check back next Monday.

Chinook & Hobby West

"Where the Fun Begins!"

ph: 403-243-1997

email: hobbywest@shaw.ca

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ChinookAndHobbyWest

Twitter: @HobbyAndToy

Pinterest:https://www.pinterest.com/hobbymum

Welcome To Model Railroading - Part 2

Welcome Back to Part two of our beginner series in Model Railroading. This post is all about the basics of building kits, the different track types, DCC, types of trains, what the numbers on a steam locomotive mean and painting terms.

If you have any questions or comments please email us or leave them below.

Plastic Model Building Kits:

Three Types:

1.      Pre-Built Plastics [model buildings].

2.      Build your self plastics

3.      Build your self-Wood.

Scenery Materials: Various:  Main one is Woodland Scenics,  Trost’s own, Bachmann, Heki. These are just a few of the brand names. Almost all scenery lines are geared to function with most or all scales.

People, Vehicles, Railroad parts i.e. crossing signs, lights, etc.

Woodland scenics, Model Power, Miniatures By Eric, Excel, Hobits, Micro Engineering, Trost’s Own, Herpa, Athearn, Wiking, McHenry, Kadee to name a few.

Track:  HO and N scales: Peco; Atlas; EZ Bachmann – O scale; Atlas O, RealTraxx

There is quite a lot for variety in most scales.

Different Types of Model Railroad Track

A question that always comes up first is – What type of model train track should I use? There are several different brands and sizes available. Mostly what you use is personal preference. One thing to remember is that the size of the rails is reported as the code. For example code 83-model railroad track has larger rails than code 55 tracks.

The difference between Atlas HO Code 83 and Code 100 track: Literally, the code of a piece of track is the height of the rail in thousandths of an inch (meaning code 83 rail is .083" high; code 100 rail is .100" high). The significant difference lies in the physical appearance of the two types of track. Atlas Code 83 track has fine, brown ties whereas Code 100 has slightly thicker black ties. Because of its accuracy (and the color of the ties), Code 83 is more prototypical, and therefore more realistic than Code 100. Code 83 is known as a finer-scale track, and is the choice of discerning modelers. Atlas carries a full line of both Code 100 and Code 83 products. (There are fewer problems with code 100 & its more economical for the new Model Railroader)

The smaller rails are often used for branch lines and the larger codes are for mainlines. This is often the way they appear in the prototype (real life), so you can simulate that on your layout if you wish. A caveat to this is that you have to make sure that when you make the transition between different codes on the same layout, you have to line up the rails properly so there won’t be any derailments.

Model railroad track is sold as sectional track, i.e., small sections of either straight track or curved track that come in 2-3 different standard radii, or as flextrack, a very flexible 3 ft piece of track that can be curved to whatever radius you want. Sectional track, but not flextrack, can also be purchased with or without roadbed attached.

Digital command control (DCC) is a newer form of model railroad wiring and train control in which each locomotive can be separately controlled from one power unit or from one walk around throttle.

Each locomotive has to be fitted with a special decoder device programmed to accept signals from the power (or control) unit when that particular decoder is “dialed in” from the control unit.  For more info on this, come in and see us.

Accessories

The lighting for structures, signals, street lamps, etc. is usually accomplished with AC current which may or may not require a separate transformer from the one you use to control trains, depending on your specific power unit.  Most transformers have an AC and DC portal (screws) on the back or side. There are too many brands to name although a few are Woodland Scenics, Minitronics, Techtronics, Rail King, etc.

Types of model trains

Steam: A steam locomotive is a locomotive powered by a steam system of tubes. The term usually refers to its use on railways, but can also refer to a "road locomotive" such as a traction engine or steamroller.  Model steam engines are all electric although any scales HO and larger have the option of adding smoke fluid or pellet for the real effect.

Diesel: A Diesel train is a type of railroad locomotive, which is powered by a Diesel engine. Several types have been developed, the distinction being  how the Diesel mechanical power is conveyed to the driving wheels (drivers).

Electric: An electric locomotive is a locomotive powered by electricity from an external source. Sources include overhead lines or third rail.

Categories of model trains by service   

Passenger: A passenger train is one, which includes passenger-carrying vehicles. It may be a self-powered multiple unit or several rail cars together, or else a combination of one or more locomotives and one or more unpowered trailers known as coaches, cars or carriages. Passenger trains travel between stations or depots, at which passengers may board and disembark. In most cases, passenger trains operate on a fixed schedule and have superior track occupancy rights over freight trains.

Streamliner: A streamliner is any vehicle that incorporates streamlining to produce a more stylish shape that provides less resistance to air. The term is most often applied to certain high-speed railway trains of the 1930s to 1950s, and to their successor "bullet trains"    

                                                                                                                 

Freight: A freight train is a group of freight cars hauled by one or more locomotives on a railway, ultimately transporting cargo between two points as part of the logistics chain. Trains may haul bulk material, inter-modal containers, general freight or specialized freight in purpose-designed cars.

Types of model railroad cars 

Hoppers, Covered Hoppers; Gondolas; Tank cars; Refrigerator cars; Boxcars; Automobile transporters; Inter-modal transporters; Flatcars; Livestock cars & Cabooses.

What do the numbers mean?

These numbers are used for the classification of steam locomotives. For example- 0-4-0, 4-4-0, 2-8-2, 4-6-6-4, etc.

-The 1st number is the number of leading wheels. These wheels support the front of the boiler and guide the locomotive along the track.
-The 2nd (or middle) number is the number of drivers. These wheels are connected together and to the cylinders with rods to transfer the power from the steam to the rails. They also support the bulk of the locomotive.
-The last number is the number of axles in the trailing truck. These wheels support the cab and firebox, where the fuel is burned.
-On Diesel locomotives 4 wheel (2 axle) are called B trucks, 6 wheel (3 axle) are C trucks.

About Paints & Terms

In store we carry two types of paints, Acrylics and Enamels.

                                            

Acrylics: Acrylic paint is fast-drying paint containing pigment suspended in an acrylic polymer emulsion. Acrylic paints can be diluted with water, but become water-resistant when dry. Acrylic artist paints may be thinned with water and used as washes

Enamels: Enamel paints are oil based paints. These paints require a longer drying time and they are water and soap resistant

Wash: A wash is a painting technique in which a paint brush that is very wet with solvent and holds a small paint load is applied to a wet or dry support

Drybrush: Drybrush is a painting technique in which a paint brush that is relatively dry, but still holds paint, is used. The resulting brush strokes have a characteristic scratchy look that lacks the smooth appearance that washes or blended paint commonly has.

Tools: These are very important, as with any tools, its best to have the correct one for the job you need to accomplish. Your most important tools will be: Track cutters, wire cutter/strippers, hobby knife and replacement blades, light gear oil, needle nosed pliers, track cleaning eraser, extra wire in at least three different colours, hot glue gun, stiff bristle paint brush, set of jewelers screwdrivers, fine to extra fine sandpaper, patience and a sense of humor.

Chinook & Hobby West would love to help you make the most of your Model Railroading experience.  Come and visit us at 5011 MacLeod Tr. SW. Calgary, AB. 

Email hobbywest@shaw.ca. We are open 10-6 pm weekdays, 10-6 Saturdays, closed Sundays and Holidays. 

Chinook & Hobby West carries N, HO and O scale trains in store.  Any other scales that come in collections, we put on our ebay site.  Our eBay handle is gossamer13


Next week: Throttle up Thursday begins! Once a month we'll be featuring a model train enthusiast. 

Chinook & Hobby West
"Where the Fun Begins!"
ph: 403-243-1997
email: hobbywest@shaw.ca
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ChinookAndHobbyWest
Twitter: @HobbyAndToy
Pinterest:https://www.pinterest.com/hobbymum

An Interview with Model Train enthusiast: Robin Cain

An Interview with Model Train enthusiast: Robin Cain 

Robin: I saw your Facebook request for photos of hobbies people are working on.  I thought you would like to check these out.

 

Chinook: Fantastic! Did you customize/paint it yourself? Tell me about this piece and why it's so special. 

Robin: It's an SD45 I made about 3 years ago...yes I did everything to it.  Athearn BLUE box

Chinook:  Is there anything else you would like to share about this SD45? 

Robin:   (thumbs up) ATHEARN BLUE BOX DC POWERED pepped up a little bit... Jewel marker lights, air hoses, grab irons, fire cracker antenna, rotating yellow Beacon, installed handrails, roof hooks, extra decaling on steps & body, custom painted & numbered number boards, center air hoses, box behind cab near turbocharger cover, custom painted & decalled.... Here's more pictures

Got it at a YARD sale for a dollar, it was a SANTA FE originally. Started off as a dummy. Recently was upgraded to a powered unit.

Chinook:  Why did you choose this loco to customize or paint?

Robin:  I was a hobo in the late 70's and rode a lot of FRISCO trains. The FRISCO SD45's was one of the giant purring kittens I slept in sometimes at night in different yards...lots of engineer's & trainmen knew me...I had a blast...miss it

Chinook:  a hobo? Where you checking out North America or just the US or just Canada?

Robin:  USA, NORTH AMERICA

Chinook:   Was it undecorated when you started? or did you strip it and repaint it? or did you do weathering and adding some things to a pre-painted loco?

Robin:  .it was a freight paint job for SANTA FE, only washed it with warm water & blue dawn, I primed it grey, painted it white, taped over white areas & put the orange to it with a badger spray unit, I altered the orange & added red, gloss colors of course.

Chinook:  How many build hours did it take you to do the work you did on it?

Robin:          13 hours to do units spread out over a month...I paint a tremendous amount of trains

Chinook:    How long have you been a model railroader and how long have you been painting/customizing your own pieces?

Robin:   I am 57, I have been a model railroader for 53 years...I been painting my own pieces since I was 10. I model the SEABOARD COAST LINE RAILROAD between AUGUSTA, GEORGIA & GREENWOOD, SOUTH CAROLINA. Just finished these BRIDGES built out of yard sticks & paint sticks

Chinook:    Do you have a designated hobby area?

Robin:  Oh yes! My layout! And my creator’s table.

Chinook:   What is your next project?

Robin:  My next project is to paint 10 SD45's.  6 BLACK...SCL 3 ROCK ISLAND BLUE 1 ROCK ISLAND RED

Chinook:   What city and state/province do you live in? Are you married? Do you share your hobby with your kids/grandkids?

Robin:  ONEONTA, ALABAMA.  My kids thinks I'm crazy because I tell them stories about people I've met honking and who I've played drums for.  I have a kids ministry. I give train's away to kids year round.  I am a train vendor, non-profit status.

I'm a little different than most people...LOL...child of the 60's & 70"s

Chinook:  Thanks so much for taking some time out of your busy day and answering these questions.

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If you liked this blog post, please leave a comment below and subscribe to our blog, Chinook Hobby Talk. Let us know what you would like to see more of in the future: Interviews with hobbyists? Product testing reviews? Maintenance? Q & A’s?

Please let us know!

Thanks and Happy Hobbying!

Val, Chinook & Hobby West

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visit our Website: Click here
Email us: Click Here

Tips for Restringing or Retightening Action Figures

Over the years, we have purchased many collections with action figures in pieces because the elastics broke. We have also had parents come in asking if we repair action figures or if we can show/tell someone how to fix one.

Rob can show you. It is fairly easy if you are patient and have a steady hand.  But because Rob is pretty busy and hard to nail down, he found an article that should help you out with some great tips, references and steps.

The following is taken from that article and there is a link at the bottom of this post so you can go see what else you can do to fix up those figures.

Before you read the article, here's a few things you may want to have on hand for when you're ready to fix your action figures.

1. a various selection of small 'O' rings or elastics
2. a sectioned container to sort the 'O' rings
3. a couple sizes of crotchet hooks (they come in metal, plastic & wood and can be found at craft stores)
4. fine tip craft scissors or sprue cutters
5. set of hobby screwdrivers

Are you sitting comfortably?  Then let's learn something neat!

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Idea 1
The best way to tighten your Action Figure involves a partial re-string. You need to shorten the single elastic (or you can use a new 'O' ring to reconnect the pieces) that connects the two legs and the neck. You need a long tool with a little hook on it like a crochet needle and a thin phillips screwdriver.

1. Holding Joe securely, pull his head away from the neck hole until you see the elastic that loops around the neck hook.
2. Push the screwdriver or crotchet hook through the loop to hold it securely above the neck hole.
3. This will allow you to easily unhook the neck from the elastic.
4. Set the head/neck aside.
5. Pull and separate the lower section away from the upper.
   Now you will have Joes two legs and abdomen section free to work on. 
6. You can shorten (tighten) the elastic by folding it an inch or so and then stitching it at that fold point. Make sure you stitch it securely.
   Now you can "re-string" Joe by putting the hook down through the neck hole past the arm elastics and out through the bottom of the chest hole. 
7. Hook your tool onto your tightened elastic and pull it up through the neck hole again. This will take alot of elbow grease. It will be very tight now..
8. Once you get it pulled just past the neck hole, stick in your screwdriver again to hold it above the neck hole.
9. Now, you can easily rehook the neck hook to the elastic.
10. Pull out the screwdriver, and you're done.

Joe is back to tight fighting shape! This process will also work for restringing or tightening the arm elastic as well. It sounds a little tough, but once you do it, it becomes really easy. -- John Medeiros


As for the floppy joints, I suggest the following (but only if you are brave): Grab some slide lock pliers, (you know, the big ones you use on the sink) and squeeze each pin and rivet gently until it begins to compress. Use the very edge of the plier face, and avoid contact with the plastic. I found this works better that tapping the joint with the hammer because you can watch the joint for stress cracks and stop at any time. You may experience a little paint flaking, but that is easily repainted. You also may want to wrap the pliers in a thin cloth. -- John

Idea 2:
I repaired a Cotswold Elite figure that had its arms come off. Anybody that has seen the cord inside these things should understand why. Here is how I fixed him:

1. Get a rubber band, the size that is used on newspapers and triple it up.
2. Take two bread twists and twist them together to form a piece about 4 or 5 inches long.
3. Tie one end of the bread tie to the rubber band, after attaching the rubber band to one of of the arms, and thread the bread ties along with the other end of the rubber band through the body.
4. Hook the other end of the rubber band on the other arm hook and then untie the bread ties. Your arms should snap right into place.

I don't know how long the rubber band will hold before it becomes brittle. It can't be any worse than that stupid cord that is in the figure though. This actually is a pretty easy fix as far as the arms are concerned. Give it a try if you ever have a figure do this to you. -- Jem


Other Ideas
Restringing arms and legs is easy except for the hip pins. They can be tricky to remove with out breaking them. Try a small awl or leather needle to pop them out. Then use some rubber cement to put them back in. To pull the rubber strings I use a coat hanger. The end makes a good hook and it is easy to pull the leg string out of the neck hole to attach the head. Do the same with the arm string . Hook one shoulder then pull the string through with the hanger and connect the other side. -- LordVader

When restringing arms and legs, I don't bother with the thigh pins myself. I leave them in if still serviceable. I bought a little bag of teeny tie wraps (the zip strip type) and just tie wrap the elastic loop to the still in there thigh pin. It works great with no noticable looseness for the extra .05 extra distance. -- Aaron


To read more of this article CLICK HERE

Please leave a comment about this post.

This blog post is opinion only and any damage/injury or loss to product or person is the responsibility of that person and Chinook & Hobby West and it's employees are not responsible.

Basic Slot Car Maintenance - Part 3

Make sure to check out Part 1 of our Basic Slot Car Maintenance to learn:

• Fixing track to a Baseboard
• Power drops and breaks
• Testing Lane Change sections

and Part 2:

• Cleaning
• Lubricating the Chassis
• Guide Braid/Blade replacement.

Welcome to the exciting hobby of Slot Cars.  At the beginning it is great fun, until everything starts to hesitate and slow down. That's when you need to look after your setup so you can continue with maximum enjoyment of your Slot Car experience.

You are here to learn abut how to maintain your Slot Car setup before it needs major maintenance (we hope we've caught you in time, lol)

Weather you have a small and simple setup or a 4+ lane for club racing, the proper cleaning routine is needed.

Tire Maintenance

Cleaning the tires gives the greatest amount of benefit to car performance.

Before using these tips, ensure that the track surface is clean and dust free.

For the novice:

• Clean the rear tires with a slightly damp cloth.
• Dry the rear tires.
• Test the car on track.

A good tip is to visually check the colour of the rear tyres. If they are grey (the colour of dust) then they need cleaning. Repeat the process of cleaning and testing until the tires remain black after a track test. Then, the tires are ready to produce the best results.

For the experienced racer:

• Clean the tires with tape (masking or gaffer tape or similar)
• Test the car on track.

For the advanced racer:

• Clean the tires with tape
• Apply 3-in-1 oil (or similar) to the tire surface. Rub it in to the tire surface.
• Gently remove any excess oil from the tire surface. Tires can be moist but not wet.
• Test the car on track.

Tire truing is also recommended for the advanced racer and involves running the rear tyres on a flat surface of sand/glass paper to wear the tyres down to a smooth flat surface where 100% of the contact area touches the track surface.

Magnets & Downforce

What to race : A Super Resistant or Fully Detailed car?

Let's use the Audi R8 GT3 as a comparison. It comes in detailed and super-resistant form. With two cars of the same make,  in super-resistant and detailed build, the differing down-force between each car might influence your choice depedent upon what type of circuit you race on.

The magnets on both cars are the same so why the difference in down-force?
A super-resistant Audi R8 has a weight of 87 gm and a magnet force of 260 gm. This down-force is measured with the magnet fitted to the car. The overall downward weight on the track is, therefore, the force of the weight of the car and magnet together. E.g. 260gms. The magnet accounts for a force of (260-87) 173gms.
A detailed car has a higher weight of 93 gm and a magnet force of 277gms. The magnet added a force of (277-93) 184gms.

The 11gms difference between both cars is accounted for by no two magnets being alike in terms of their magnetic attraction (gauss value). Other factors such as flexibility of the chassis also come into play as does the condition of the track, thickness of the tyres, etc as the distance of magnet from rail is critical and exponential. The magnet being twice as close to the track doesn't mean it's effect is two-fold - it could be tens times stronger! So differences in all of these areas can make significant differences.

From a practical point of view, for racing both cars have good performance. This car does race well and feels sure-footed, even for those racers who prefer to race without a magnet (which is the best way to race in my opinion!).
Pros and cons are:
A light weight super-resistant car is superior on smooth track and/or long straights since it won’t be inclined to de-slot and can accelerate to top speed far quicker than a heavier fully detailed car. For circuits with bumps or only short straights a heavier car is recommended because the extra weight is required to keep the car in the slot and not so much is time is wasted accelerating along short straight lengths of the track.

If you have a car that sticks to the track too much check the underpan to see if the magnet can be moved to a different position. Usually, moving it foward lessens the downforce effect. When you are ready for more of a challenge, try removing the magnet completely. It's interesting to note that most Scalextric clubs ban the use of magnets!

---weights can also be used to increase downforce

Motors - An overview

An overview of Scalextric motors.

Scalextric motors are rigourously tested to help ensure that the Scalextric car is fitted with a motor that has good durability and will give many years of serviceable life without problems.

Is maintenance necessary?

Generally, a Scalextric motor needs no maintenance at all for the average home user. In fact, the car is built so that access to the motor is difficult. This is to comply with toy regulations and means that the motor has to be durable and maintenance free.

Maintenance for the enthusiast.

Enthusiasts may want to ensure that the motor is running at its optimum. Therefore, with chassis removed, it is possible to add a single drop of oil (3-in-1 light oil) to the ends of the motor shaft. Whilst this maintenance is carried out it is also good practice to clean all moving parts such as the pinion and axle gears and the axle bearings and lightly oil these components. Electrical contact cleaner can be used to clean the internal motor brushes but be sure to only carry out this maintenance on a cold motor.

Motor specifications

Scalextric motors are expected to be used at 12 to 15v. In practice they will work up to 18v without much problem. Above 20v seriously shortens the life of a motor.
In basic terms, current draw is 0.5 to 1Amp. However, strength or magnet, weight of car, grip of tyres are but just three factors that effect current draw.
Note that the current draw will only, and can only, be no more than the current available from the power source!
We recommend that only Scalexctric power supplies are used.

The standard Mabuchi S (SP) can motor or Mabuchi slimline motor (FF) fitted to most Scalextric cars are rated at 18,000 r.p.m. measured at 12v.

Performance Motor range

Motors can be changed for higher revving motors. See our Performance Motors range.
This range has 20,000, 25,000 and 30,000 rpm motors available.

Car Tuning

We do not recommend that any tuning is performed on an electric motor other than a spot of oil placed on the external motor shaft bearings - now and again. However, the components that act with a motor to deliver forward motion can be tuned. Adding a higher revving motor doesn't neccessarily mean quicker lap times or a better handling car! Different gear ratios can be used to effect the acceleration and braking of the car to improve the overall balance and performance. This is where tuning becomes more of an art. There are no strict guide lines to say what is best as so much depends upon such elements as driving technique, motor, car balance, tyre grip, track surface, hand controller, gear ratios and shape of track circuit - to name but a few variables - but making changes one step at a time and recording the differences is a steady logical way to go.

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Extras

Performance Tyres

The performance range of tyres will fit most Scalextric cars.
Here's a brief guide to indicate which tyres will fit your car for those extra fast lap times.

C8413 - set of 4

Porsche 997
BMW 318Si
Aston Martin DBS
Dodge Viper
Peugeot 908
Nissan 350Z
Ford GT 2004
Nissan Skyline JGTC
Ford Mustang FR500C
Lamborghini Gallardo
Porsche Spyder
Ferrari F430
Maserati MC12
Aston Martin DBR9

C8414 - set of 4

F1, Indy, A1GP cars.

C8415 - set of 4

Chevrolet Camaro
Chevrolet Corvette Stingray
Ford Mustang
Ford Torino
Ferrari 330 P3/P4

C8416 - set of 4

Chaparral 2F
Subaru Impreza
Ford Focus
Peugeot 307
Alfa Romeo 159
Seat Leon
Porsche 911 GT3R

We here at Chinook & Hobby West, would like you to have the maximum fun with your Slot Car set.  Please feel free to come down and talk to us about showing you how to clean and maintain your cars and tracks or to upgrade your cars to Digital.


We carry Scalextric 1:32 scale Slot Cars. We are expanding our selection for the slot car season of 2014-2015 (November to March).


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