Showing posts with label diorama. Show all posts
Showing posts with label diorama. Show all posts

Thursday, 7 September 2017

Welcome To Model Railroading - Part 2

Welcome Back to Part two of our beginner series in Model Railroading. This post is all about the basics of building kits, the different track types, DCC, types of trains, what the numbers on a steam locomotive mean and painting terms.

If you have any questions or comments please email us or leave them below.


Plastic Model Building Kits:

Three Types:
1.      Pre-Built Plastics [model buildings].
2.      Build your self plastics
3.      Build your self-Wood.

Scenery Materials: Various:  Main one is Woodland Scenics,  Trost’s own, Bachmann, Heki. These are just a few of the brand names. Almost all scenery lines are geared to function with most or all scales.

People, Vehicles, Railroad parts i.e. crossing signs, lights, etc.
Woodland scenics, Model Power, Miniatures By Eric, Excel, Hobits, Micro Engineering, Trost’s Own, Herpa, Athearn, Wiking, McHenry, Kadee to name a few.

Track:  HO and N scales: Peco; Atlas; EZ Bachmann – O scale; Atlas O, RealTraxx
There is quite a lot for variety in most scales.


Different Types of Model Railroad Track

A question that always comes up first is – What type of model train track should I use? There are several different brands and sizes available. Mostly what you use is personal preference. One thing to remember is that the size of the rails is reported as the code. For example code 83-model railroad track has larger rails than code 55 tracks.
The difference between Atlas HO Code 83 and Code 100 track: Literally, the code of a piece of track is the height of the rail in thousandths of an inch (meaning code 83 rail is .083" high; code 100 rail is .100" high). The significant difference lies in the physical appearance of the two types of track. Atlas Code 83 track has fine, brown ties whereas Code 100 has slightly thicker black ties. Because of its accuracy (and the color of the ties), Code 83 is more prototypical, and therefore more realistic than Code 100. Code 83 is known as a finer-scale track, and is the choice of discerning modelers. Atlas carries a full line of both Code 100 and Code 83 products. (There are fewer problems with code 100 & its more economical for the new Model Railroader)
The smaller rails are often used for branch lines and the larger codes are for mainlines. This is often the way they appear in the prototype (real life), so you can simulate that on your layout if you wish. A caveat to this is that you have to make sure that when you make the transition between different codes on the same layout, you have to line up the rails properly so there won’t be any derailments.
Model railroad track is sold as sectional track, i.e., small sections of either straight track or curved track that come in 2-3 different standard radii, or as flextrack, a very flexible 3 ft piece of track that can be curved to whatever radius you want. Sectional track, but not flextrack, can also be purchased with or without roadbed attached.





Digital command control (DCC) is a newer form of model railroad wiring and train control in which each locomotive can be separately controlled from one power unit or from one walk around throttle.
Each locomotive has to be fitted with a special decoder device programmed to accept signals from the power (or control) unit when that particular decoder is “dialed in” from the control unit.  For more info on this, come in and see us.

Accessories
The lighting for structures, signals, street lamps, etc. is usually accomplished with AC current which may or may not require a separate transformer from the one you use to control trains, depending on your specific power unit.  Most transformers have an AC and DC portal (screws) on the back or side. There are too many brands to name although a few are Woodland Scenics, Minitronics, Techtronics, Rail King, etc.

Types of model trains
Steam: A steam locomotive is a locomotive powered by a steam system of tubes. The term usually refers to its use on railways, but can also refer to a "road locomotive" such as a traction engine or steamroller.  Model steam engines are all electric although any scales HO and larger have the option of adding smoke fluid or pellet for the real effect.
Diesel: A Diesel train is a type of railroad locomotive, which is powered by a Diesel engine. Several types have been developed, the distinction being  how the Diesel mechanical power is conveyed to the driving wheels (drivers).
Electric: An electric locomotive is a locomotive powered by electricity from an external source. Sources include overhead lines or third rail.

Categories of model trains by service   

Passenger: A passenger train is one, which includes passenger-carrying vehicles. It may be a self-powered multiple unit or several rail cars together, or else a combination of one or more locomotives and one or more unpowered trailers known as coaches, cars or carriages. Passenger trains travel between stations or depots, at which passengers may board and disembark. In most cases, passenger trains operate on a fixed schedule and have superior track occupancy rights over freight trains.

Streamliner: A streamliner is any vehicle that incorporates streamlining to produce a more stylish shape that provides less resistance to air. The term is most often applied to certain high-speed railway trains of the 1930s to 1950s, and to their successor "bullet trains"    
                                                                                                                 
Freight: A freight train is a group of freight cars hauled by one or more locomotives on a railway, ultimately transporting cargo between two points as part of the logistics chain. Trains may haul bulk material, inter-modal containers, general freight or specialized freight in purpose-designed cars.

Types of model railroad cars 
Hoppers, Covered Hoppers; Gondolas; Tank cars; Refrigerator cars; Boxcars; Automobile transporters; Inter-modal transporters; Flatcars; Livestock cars & Cabooses.


What do the numbers mean?
These numbers are used for the classification of steam locomotives. For example- 0-4-0, 4-4-0, 2-8-2, 4-6-6-4, etc.
-The 1st number is the number of leading wheels. These wheels support the front of the boiler and guide the locomotive along the track.
-The 2nd (or middle) number is the number of drivers. These wheels are connected together and to the cylinders with rods to transfer the power from the steam to the rails. They also support the bulk of the locomotive.
-The last number is the number of axles in the trailing truck. These wheels support the cab and firebox, where the fuel is burned.
-On Diesel locomotives 4 wheel (2 axle) are called B trucks, 6 wheel (3 axle) are C trucks.

About Paints & Terms

In store we carry two types of paints, Acrylics and Enamels.
                                            
Acrylics: Acrylic paint is fast-drying paint containing pigment suspended in an acrylic polymer emulsion. Acrylic paints can be diluted with water, but become water-resistant when dry. Acrylic artist paints may be thinned with water and used as washes

Enamels: Enamel paints are oil based paints. These paints require a longer drying time and they are water and soap resistant

Wash: A wash is a painting technique in which a paint brush that is very wet with solvent and holds a small paint load is applied to a wet or dry support

Drybrush: Drybrush is a painting technique in which a paint brush that is relatively dry, but still holds paint, is used. The resulting brush strokes have a characteristic scratchy look that lacks the smooth appearance that washes or blended paint commonly has.

Tools: These are very important, as with any tools, its best to have the correct one for the job you need to accomplish. Your most important tools will be: Track cutters, wire cutter/strippers, hobby knife and replacement blades, light gear oil, needle nosed pliers, track cleaning eraser, extra wire in at least three different colours, hot glue gun, stiff bristle paint brush, set of jewelers screwdrivers, fine to extra fine sandpaper, patience and a sense of humor.


Chinook & Hobby West would love to help you make the most of your Model Railroading experience.  Come and visit us at 5011 MacLeod Tr. SW. Calgary, AB. 
Email hobbywest@shaw.ca. We are open 10-6 pm weekdays, 10-6 Saturdays, closed Sundays and Holidays. 

Chinook & Hobby West carries N, HO and O scale trains in store.  Any other scales that come in collections, we put on our ebay site.  Our eBay handle is gossamer13


Next week: Throttle up Thursday begins! Once a month we'll be featuring a model train enthusiast. 

Chinook & Hobby West
"Where the Fun Begins!"
ph: 403-243-1997
email: hobbywest@shaw.ca
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ChinookAndHobbyWest
Twitter: @HobbyAndToy
Pinterest:https://www.pinterest.com/hobbymum

Thursday, 31 August 2017

Welcome to Model Railroading - Part 1

Welcome to Model Railroading - 

Model railroading is a fascinating hobby and has been dubbed by many as the “World’s Greatest Hobby”.   It is very versatile and incorporates many learning opportunities and is so fun for all ages. It includes creativity with sculpturing, painting, airbrushing, decorating and landscaping, and encourages scientific exploration of electronics, physics, mechanics, engineering and architecture, all combined with humor, friendship, family activities, social interaction, and the great sense of accomplishment.

Things to consider before starting:
  • Space – plan out how big your layout can be, within the room you have available. Keep in mind that you need to get to all points that has track. So you may want to consider a U shape or a hole in the middle that you can get to any track should you need to.
  • Scale- this goes with the Space point. If you have outdoor space, you may want to model in G or O, in a small to large room HO, or for a really small space N. There are other scales too.
  • Budget- plan to spend on the materials for the table, base, roadbed and track first. Then some model train pieces, buildings and landscaping. This will also prevent you from getting overwhelmed with too much to do.
  • Tips- if you are interested in using long flat bed cars, passenger cars or other long cars you need to make allowance for large radius curves or they will derail. Come and visit us for great beginner guidebooks and guidance in planning.

Model trains come in various scales (gauges):
Ø  Z 1:220 (with all the letters identifying gauges Z became the smallest so they used the last letter in the alphabet)
Ø  N  (rails are Nine mm apart- hence the N) 1:160 **
Ø  HO  (Half O or ‘aitch oh’) 1:87  **
Ø  OO  - 1:76 runs on HO track and is the British version of HO
Ø  S   scale 1:64
Ø  O   (was referred as zero (or 0h) gauge) 1:48**
Ø  G (Garden) 1:20.3 to 1:32
Ø  There are many more gauges, although they are important to die-hard railroaders, we will not be listing them here.  You can ask Rob, or Robby about those.

Gauge refers to the width of the track, measured between the railheads.  Different from scale, which is proportion to life-size.
At present, Chinook & Hobby West carries three Scales of Model Trains for Sale:  
**O scale, HO Scale, and N scale.   Any other scales that come in collections, we put on our ebay site.  Our eBay handle is gossamer13


Next week: Learn about different track, buildings, painting and more!


Chinook & Hobby West
"Where the Fun Begins!"
ph: 403-243-1997
email: hobbywest@shaw.ca
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ChinookAndHobbyWest
Twitter: @HobbyAndToy
Pinterest:https://www.pinterest.com/hobbymum


Thursday, 21 July 2016

6 Tips and Ideas to Customize Your Model Kit

So you've built a few model kits and you're ready to up your game and do something unique and different to your piece?

First, go check out your local hobby shop and get some ideas on what you may want to do to upgrade your model. Do you want to custom design and make your own decals? Change the interior? Add something completely different?

Ask yourself if this is for you or to enter in a show and what level you are building at. Be realistic with your skill level and remember with each kit you do, you're going to get better!

Painting is the most common way to make your model stand out. If you're brush painting, make sure to keep your brush strokes going in one direction for a better look.

When customizing your colours be sure to write down how much of each colour you're mixing so you can get an exact match each time. Who knows, someone may want that colour combo and ask you for the mix ratio. Use eyedroppers or pipettes to help with this.





Weathering can really add that "something special" to your custom build. It can make your piece look beat up and rusted or look as if it's just been though the mud. It can be used to create blaster marks on a Sci-fi kit, engine exhaust stains or peeling paint on a car.

It's all in how you use your paint and brush. For example for blaster marks use paint and brush to 'dry brush' the look you want. For a dusty look you can use chalks. Just make sure that after you create the weathered look you desire, seal it with a clear coat of Matte, Semi-Gloss or Gloss. You don't want to ruin that hard work.





Decals are a fun way to customize for beginner to intermediate builders. The majority of kits already have a sheet of decals ideal to your model choice, with sometimes two or three variant choices; But what if you want something unique to your imagination?  Decal sets and paper are just what you're looking for.

Basically decals are layers of paint built up on plastic film with a paper backing.  The glue is usually activated by water.  Your printer may be up to the task of creating your decals.

When using decals make sure to cut as close to the pattern as possible (nail or craft scissors work best for this). Dip your decal in water for the instructions set amount of time and add it to your model. You can use Microset to help the decal settle onto the model more snugly.  There are many articles and YouTube videos on how to use and apply decals. Practice makes perfect in this case.  Even the most expert model builders can have trouble with decals. Just take your time with it.

Finally, consider adding your model onto a Diorama to add dimension and truly get the feeling across to those looking at your creation. They can be as simple or complex as you want them to be. Ask your experienced local hobby shop for tips and ideas.






With the help of your local hobby shop's knowledgeable staff, checking out a few YouTube videos, researching articles like this one and your own imagination, you can create a potential masterpiece from a humble box of plastic and photo-etched parts.

Make sure to read these great blog articles too and share them with a friend:


Please make sure to comment below if you have a tip to share!  Like our blog to get updates on the newest additions. We post every Thursday, alternating Trains and Model/Toys.

Also, make sure to check out our WebsiteFacebook and YouTube Channel for inspiration, learning and fun!

Thanks for reading

Happy Hobbying


Thursday, 7 July 2016

Creating Display Dioramas & Accessories For Your Action Figures

We regularly ask for tips, article ideas and general info from guys and gals just like you!  Recently, we were send this article. For the full article scroll to the bottom and hit the link.

This is just an opinion post about what you may try to do yourself. We are not responsible for any loss, injury, theft, etc. regarding any of the tips in this post.


Making an Oil Drum


  • Take a 14 ounce can and remove the top and label. 
  • Use one of the new Euro-Openers that cut from the side for best results. Eat contents and clean can. Dry well. Using a hot glue gun, glue the top back on. 
  • Hot glue a 1/4" hex nut to the top near the edge and fill in the hole with glue. 
  • Spray the can one of 3 colors: sage green, battleship gray or mint green. 
  •  Label drums with rub on letters purchased from your local hobby shop.
  • Display!



Making Walls

Here's on way on how to make a stone wall:
  1. Items required: gravel, silicone RTV sealer (or caulking, or something similar), piece of wood as long as, and slightly wider than the section of wall you wish to build.
  2. Glue the pieces of gravel to the wood using the silicone. Mix and match (like a puzzle) the gravel to give straight lines on the sides and eventually the top. The wall will get heavy enough to cause distortions if you try to do it all at once. Do about an inch or two high along the entire length of the wall and then let the silicone cure. Continue to add an inch or two in height every day until the wall is high enough. 
  3. If you need a really thick stone wall, use a piece of Styrofoam and glue the gravel to the sides and top of the Styrofoam. The wall will still get heavy but the Styrofoam will help a bit!
  4. If you fit the gravel together tightly, you can make a replica of a mortar-less stone wall. If you prefer to make a replica of a wall with mortar between the rocks, make the wall as noted above and let the silicone cure. After the silicone cures, run a bead of Elmer's or another hobby glue along the joints between the gravel and then sprinkle fine sand over the glue. After that dries brush off the excess sand. You can get fine sand in different colors from a hobby store that carries supplies for sand art.
  5. Build the wall up to the end edges of the wood. This will allow you to make several sections of wall that will be smaller, easily stored and allow configuration changes for dioramas, etc. If you need to make a 90 degree corner, you can either make the corner as part of one section of wall, or make the wood ends as wide as the wall instead of a bit wider.
  6. To finish off the sections of wall, glue dirt, model railroad ground cover, etc to the wood at the base of the wall. Also glue in a few bits of straw to simulate taller growing grasses, etc. -- Rob S.

Making Barbed Wire

How to Make Barbed Wire: Items needed: 30 gauge wire (found in hobby stores, Wal-Mart, etc - used for flowers & stuff), twigs (about 1/2 inch diameter), piece of wood (about 1/2 inch thick, plywood OK), glue, locking pliers or forceps, wire cutters, drill & bits, saw, rag.

  1. Determine how much distance you want between fence posts. Also determine how high you want the fence to be (about 6 inches for a regular fence, about 16 inches or higher if you want to build a POW stockade).
  2. Cut your wood about 2" - 3" wide and 2" - 3" longer than you want the fence section to be.
  3. Cut the twigs to length, adding about 1/2 inch (or the thickness of your wood).
  4. Drill 1/2 inch holes in the wood where you want the fence posts to be.
  5. Glue fence posts into holes in wood. Set aside to dry thoroughly.
  6. Cut a piece of the wire two times the distance between the fence posts, plus an extra 12 inches. For a 12 inch length of fence the length will be 36 inches (12 inches times two plus 12 more inches). The extra 12 inches of wire will be used to wrap around the fence post and secure the wire to the post.
  7. Place the two ends of the wire together and pull the wire tight to form a doubled piece of wire.
  8. Using the vice grip pliers or forceps, grab each end of the doubled wire and twist the wire. Keep twisting the wire until it has about 1/8 inch or less between the places where the wire crosses over itself.
  9. Place the rag over the doubled & twisted wire and firmly pinch the wire (I fold the rag several times to give me a thicker pad of protection). Starting at one end of the twisted wire, squeeze and pull the rag along the length of the twisted wire (similar to closing a "zip-lock" bag). Do this a couple of times. What we are doing is setting the twist into the wire so when we remove the pliers/forceps the wire won't untwist by itself. You MUST use a rag or something similar because the wire will cut through skin if you try this with unprotected fingers!!! Set the wire aside.
  10. Repeat steps 6 through 9 until you have one strand of wire for every inch to inch-and-a-half of post height.
  11. Cut a bunch of 2" lengths of wire. Keep cutting, you'll need a BUNCH of these!
  12. Take the 2" pieces of wire and wrap them around the twisted wire sections. Start about 3 inches from one end and wrap them every inch. Make sure you wrap them tightly against the twisted wire, and wrap each one about 4 times around the twisted wire. These will be the "barb" part of your barbed wire fence. Don't worry about how long the ends are, just wrap the entire length of twisted wire. Do this for all pieces of twisted wire you made in steps 6 - 9.
  13. Take your wire cutters and snip off the extra length on each end of the barbs. Real barbs are about 1/2 inch long. I make the barbs a bit longer than normal (scale-wise) because they look better (i.e. you can see them!). Play around with the final length of your barbs and make them as long as you think looks good.
  14. Wrap the ends of each section of barbed wire around the fence posts and twist the wire back on itself to hold the wire onto the post. BE CAREFUL - the barbs are REAL! ;-) Snip off the extra wire. Do this on both sides of the fence section, starting about 1 inch from the wood and working up about an inch for every piece of wire.
  15. The fence section is finished. I make mine about 12 inches long so I can move them around easily. You can make them any length and any height. A good way to finish off the wooden bottom is to glue dirt, flocking, etc to the wood to simulate dirt, grass, etc. Need something besides fences? Make the sections of barbed wire and then coil them up to simulate coiled barbed wire. Use small (about 1 inch tall) pieces of smaller twigs glued into a wider section of wood, string the barbed wire between them and create "tanglefoot." Let your imagination roam wild! Good luck & have fun! -- Rob S

To see the complete article CLICK HERE
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We hope you enjoyed this post!  Let us know what you think or share any tips or ideas in the comments below.

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thanks for reading this blog post and we look forward to your sharing with us.

Happy Hobbying!!

Valerie

Tuesday, 14 July 2015

Model Kit Building And Painting Tips And Tricks

Our staff here at Chinook & Hobby West have noticed many of the same questions from our beginner level model builders. We have done some research and pooled our own knowledge to share some tips and tricks to help you along your hobby adventure.

Please leave a comment below and let us know your tips, ideas or if this article helped you.
Enjoy and Happy Hobbying!



Building a Model
  1. You need a designated space such as a large table with good lighting.
  2. Read through the instructions a couple of times before you start.
  3. Cut, don't snap off, individual parts from the plastic sprues.
  4. Compare the parts included, to the list of parts in the instructions.
  5. Smooth the edges of parts using a sanding stick or file to remove nubs and excess plastic resulting from manufacturing, then wash them in a mild detergent and allow to dry. Make sure to use gentle pressure when sanding so you don't take too much off.
  6. Collect your tools.
  7. Follow the parts assembly sequence exactly. Be patient and don't jump ahead.
Extra Tips
-Use the minimum amount of glue necessary to make a solid bond. 
-Enhance your assembled model by filling in gaps with putty and carefully sanding the filled surface.

Come down and see us at Chinook & Hobby West or email us if you have any questions.

Painting Your Model
  1. Do some research if you're building a replica. Every era has incorporated its own style. A replica of a Cadillac painted pink would not be an accurate model of the original car but may be your vision of your dream car.
  2. If you can, find a modeler's club and learn hands-on tips from more experienced modelers. There are some great online forums on the internet.
  3. Plan your paint scheme if you're doing your own design. Write down the colours you're thinking about so you don't forget that vision.
  4. Work on a clean surface.
  5. Clean your model. Use rubbing alcohol or plastic prep and let the model dry thoroughly. This helps to remove all oil and any other contamination, including excess glue.
  6. Put the model or model part on a paint stand or on a drop cloth.
  7. Shake the spray can thoroughly to mix paint properly.
  8. Test the nozzle by spraying a piece of cardboard, such as the inside lid of your model box.
  9. Plan on multiple thin coats rather than one thick coat.
  10. Start spraying to one side of the model, stroke over the model, and spray past the model before you stop.  Keeping the spray about 6 to 8 inches away from the project.
Extra Tips 
-Aerosol spray paints are good, but you may want to invest in an airbrush as you grow in the hobby.  
-Bright, shiny finishes can be achieved by painting the desired color, letting the model dry, spraying with a clear coat, and then finishing with a buffing compound. 
-Complete the detail work as necessary with fine-tipped artist brushes.
-Use thinners for your type of paint (acrylic thinner for acrylic paint) when brush painting.
-Paint in a ventilated area. 
-Wear a painter's mask if you are sensitive to smells. 
-Many experienced modelers suggest using primers when painting.

We hope that these tips and tricks help you create a piece you can be proud of.  Remember to have patience, take your time and if you get frustrated, walk away (after you clean up). You can always go back to it later!
Please leave a comment and remember, these ideas are not finite; there are so many things to try and experiment with.  Have FUN!




These tips are suggestions and we are not responsible for damage or accidents that occur to your project.

Monday, 7 July 2014

10 Tips For Buying A Model Kit



Generally a model kit contains a scale model of an object or vehicle - automobile, aircraft, military vehicle, motor, building, replica figure, etc. (there are many to look at and choose from). Such kits include all the necessary pieces of the idea photo on the box (make sure to ask if you are unsure as some buildings show fences and trees, but these are sold separately or just a special part(s) of a larger model), which the hobbyist assembles and then personalizes with paints and decals (usually sold separately).
With model kits, there are two primary types of hobbyists: the builder and the collector. The builder fancies the challenge and the hands-on aspect. The collector, on the other hand, focuses on the possessing, and many collectors opt to display the kits untouched, in their original packaging.

Buying a Model Kit

For the new hobbyist, buying a model kit can be a daunting task simply due to the sheer amount of choice that’s available. Collectors have to choose a vehicle and the scale at which they want to work. Then, they have to factor in price, complexity, customization, tools and supplies, and so forth. If the desired model is no longer manufactured, then the hobbyist has to deal with a series of additional concerns, including appreciation. Choosing a kit is not simple, but even the new hobbyist can avoid the most common pitfalls by following these 10 tips:

1. Research Model Kit Types

The first step is awareness of the various types of kits that are available. The traditional model kit, often called Snap-Tite or Skill Level 1, is made of plastic and simply snaps together. Snap-Tite kits are very newbie-friendly and usually only require mild filing and light gluing to complete.  Experienced hobbyists will eventually graduate to Skill 2 requiring glue and paint and to any of the more advanced Skill 3-5 kits as well as die cast models and radio-controlled vehicles.


2. Choose a Vehicle Type

The next step is to choose the type or class of vehicle. The most popular model kit classes are classic, sports car, NASCAR, hot rod, truck, and service vehicles. Classic car models tend to focus on American muscle, but there are models available for the classics from all over the world. Skill 1 classics tend to be the most accessible kind of kits for the beginner. Hot rods are roadsters, typically open wheel, that have very distinctive aesthetics and engine mount configurations. Hot rods make great looking models, but they can be quite challenging in the building and customization stages. The most popular type of automotive model kit is the sports car model (Corvette, Austin Martin, Ferrari, etc), a class that focuses on street legal sports cars from all years and from all around the world. In the U.S., NASCAR models rival the sports car and classic car classes in overall popularity. The service vehicle class, which are intricate and challenging, includes vehicles like fire trucks, ambulances, snowplows, and so forth.
And just to add to the pile, don't forget Military vehicles, aircraft and ships.

3. Select an Interesting Subject

When choosing a particular model, collectors should opt for a subject that engages them. A Porsche 911 is very popular and a staple in most automotive model collections, but it can also be very boring due to that commonness. Rather than choosing a model based on what is already known, the collector should shop around until a model chooses them. Finding a model car that is aesthetically interesting, challenging to build but still suitable to the beginner, can be difficult, but such models are available.

4. Decide on Scale

The next step is to choose the scale of the model. The most common model size for a car is 1:25 (and manufacturers often use 1:24 rather than 1:25), which is approximately 6 to 7 inches long. In Europe, 1:18 is also very popular. The 1:18 kits are approximately 9 inches long. There are also 1:60 scale kits, which are approximately 3 inches long and are particularly well suited to the small hands of a young child. Small kits are also popular among collectors and builders who enjoy the miniaturization aspect, but tiny kits can require a great deal of patience and fine hand control.
We will discuss in a future blog about the different scales in military, ships and aircraft.

5. Evaluate the Complexity

After choosing the model and scale, consider the complexity of the kit. The first gauge of complexity is the number of pieces in the kit. A Skill 1 kit usually has less than 50 pieces. A Skill 2 kit can have up to 200 pieces. A Skill 3-5 kit can have 200-1500 or more pieces and include many fine parts.
Skill 1 kits are preferable for beginners, children, and adult builders who just want a relaxed experience. Most children can complete a Skill 1 kit with little supervision and only occasional help. Skill 2 or higher kits require additional skills, tools, and supplies. Be aware that choosing a complex model that the builder isn’t ready for can intimidate and overwhelm the builder and therefore loose interest in a very enjoyable hobby.

6. Consider Customization Options and Necessities

An often hidden aspect of model building is the optional, and sometimes necessary, customization and personalization of the model. Automotive model kits are often labeled 2-in-1, 3-in-1, and so on; what that means is that the build process has a branch that allows for multiple finishes. For instance, many classic car kits come in a 3-in-1 configuration, which means that the collector can build it as a stock car, custom car, or race car. Many hobbyists opt to build these kits in all variants and display them alongside each other. First-time builders, however, should consider a basic kit that has no variants for simplicity.

7. Consider the Needed Tools and Supplies

Another important consideration is tools and supplies. The beginner will require basic hobby tools, such as a hobby knife, tweezers, paint, a fine file, and modeling glue/cement. Skill 2 and higher kits, however, will require a range of hobby knives and files as well as putty, sanding paper, spur cutters and perhaps a rotary tool or other power tools. Diecast models require metalworking tools, and radio-controlled models require batteries, an electronic motor, controller, and so forth.

8. Opt for a New Automotive Model Kit

Manufacturers produce kits in runs, which are typically time-limited. Once a run ends, the kit then becomes vintage and begins to appreciate in value. Vintage model cars sell at many times their original sticker price. For the builder, the most common reason to buy vintage is to get a particular classic car, which tend to go in and out of production. Although this will limit the hobbyist’s options, the beginner should focus on new kits in order to work with modern materials and avoid the vintage premium. (many kits are done in a re-release at milestone marks such as the 10th, 25th or 50th year anniversary of that kit or the car/piece)


9. When Buying Vintage, Price It and Haggle for It

If the collector opts to purchase a vintage model, then they should price it first. Price guides will provide a general appraisal, and the Internet is a powerful resource to determine the actual going rate. When buying a vintage model, shop around; check online, local shops, garage sales and shows/conventions. Once found, don’t settle for the listed price, which is generally a best-case scenario for the vendor.
(Be realistic in your negotiations you don't want to insult the one selling the kit in case you want to buy from them again)

10. New Builders Should Have a Contingency Plan

New builders should have a contingency plan because first builds usually do not go according to plan. A benefit of buying a current kit is that the collector can easily purchase an additional kit from the store or replacement parts directly from the manufacturer. Some vendors sell open box kits, which may be missing parts but are a cost-effective way to have spare parts on hand.


Conclusion

Buying a model kit for the first time can be difficult due to the sheer amount of choice available. A hobbyist’s first step should be to educate himself or herself on the various options that are available: classes, models, scales, books and other sources. Next, the beginner should choose a subject that interests them, but also one that isn’t so complex that makes it difficult to learn. With the first build under one's belt, the builder will be able to graduate to one of the more intricate kits the next time, and go into dioramas - but that's another blog......

What did you think of this article?  Please email us or comment on this post and let us know your thoughts and questions.




partial source 

Monday, 23 June 2014

Building A Road

Would you like to include a road or sidewalk on your layout or diorama?  We have great kits for beginners to experts that give great finished looks.

We know we have a kit that's ideal for you!  Make sure to come down and see us for more info and techniques.

Our first kit is for Beginners or great for school projects:

 the Woodland Scenics Road Kit for building roads and sidewalks on our layouts and dioramas.  Its easy, fast, a good price and looks great when finished!


Woodland Scenics has also released a great video to demonstrate just how easy this kit is to use:
Click Here to view
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Our other kit is for Intermediate to expert:

Road System Learning Kit

LK952

Modelers learn to easily add roads and other paved areas to any layout. The kit contains illustrated instructions and enough of the following products to build a roadway approximately 3" x 4' (7.62 cm x 121 cm): Smooth-It™, Paving Tape™ and Spreader, Asphalt Top Coat™ and the Top Coat applicator.


Here is another great video to help you bring this Road System kit to life for you:
Click Here to view
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Are you looking to add more realism to your road?  Check these out!

Paving Tape™

ST1455

Use this adhesive-backed foam tape to create straight-edged forms for paving, even on curves. Use to model streets, roads, sidewalks and parking lots. Easy to apply and remove. Includes Spreader. Roll 1/4" w x 1/16" h x 30' l (6 mm x 1.5 mm x 9.14 m) makes a road approximately 15 feet long (4.57 m).


Top Coat™ Concrete

ST1454

Top Coat Concrete is a non-toxic, water-soluble compound used to simulate the color of concrete road surfaces. Brush-on application. 4 fl oz (118 mL)
One bottle will cover approximately 9 to 12 square feet.


Top Coat™ Asphalt

ST1453

Top Coat Asphalt is a non-toxic, water-soluble compound used to simulate the color of blacktop road surfaces. Brush-on application. 4 fl oz (118 mL)
One bottle will cover approximately 9 to 12 square feet.


Smooth-It™ (1 qt.)

ST1452

Smooth-It is a plaster material that is used to smooth rough spots, create streets, roads and parking lots. Mix with water and apply directly to any clean hard surface. Covers 26' by 3" by 1/4" (HO Scale - two-lane highway).

Road Striping Pen - Yellow

C1292

Easily stripe roads, parking lots, crosswalks and other paved areas. Road Striping Pens make precise and opaque, realistic markings and dries quickly. Works for scales N through O. Use with Flexi Edge™ to create accurately scaled stripes and lines. 1/pkg and includes extra tip.


Road Stripe Remover

C1293

Use with Road Striping Pen - White and Road Striping Pen - Yellow to correct striping errors easily. Removes paint from Top Coat™ painted surfaces, leaving no residue. 1/pkg


The Scenery Manual

C1207

The most popular and comprehensive scenery manual available. Anyone can make beautiful, realistic scenery, and this manual will show you how. The spiral-bound Scenery Manual is loaded with various tips, techniques, ideas and instructions for using more than Woodland Scenics products to model realistic scenery. 170 pages contains hundreds of full-color photos and illustrations. Includes a 22 page addendum featuring the new terrain products.

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Thanks for checking out our blog, we hope you enjoyed this article.  Please leave a comment and let us know if this article was helpful.

Happy Hobbying!

From the gang at Chinook & Hobby West
403-243-1997