Create a Great Paint Job From Spray Cans

Have you every tried to use spray cans to paint your model only to have dripping runs or that 'orange peel' look? We've pooled together our collective knowledge to share some of our favourite tips and ideas.

There are many modelers think spray cans are amateurish and not very precise, and that the only way to build a show quality model is to use an airbrush. That's so untrue! There are a lot of good reasons to use aerosol spray paint.

Currently, there are so many excellent aerosol paints available for model builders, they all have their great qualities. Testors is the front runner with an excellent selection of both stock and custom colors in enamels, and Tamiya's lacquers have fantastic pigments. Some others (not all available at your local hobby shop) add to the huge array of commercially available paints such as Krylon, Dupli-Color, Plasti-kote, and there are more. It may sound odd, but I rarely use an airbrush!

Each of these lines are available in gloss, semigloss, and flat varieties, and can be used to vary the surfaces of flat, semigloss, and metallic paints, adding even more variety to the mix. You can use these differences to your advantage to add more visual interest to your model. 

The first thing anyone is going to notice about your model is the paint job, so read on to learn how to paint, prepare and finish that model on your hobby table.

1. Select the colours for your model kit. Also, check out your local hobby shop or bookstore for awesome reference and idea books. (Remember that for military kits flat colour are best, but if you need to use semi-gloss or gloss for the colour you like to can use a flat finish at the end to make it all uniform flat)

2. On any kit your going to need to remove the molding seams and flashing left by the molding process. These can be hard to spot on some kits, a credit to the manufacturer's attention to detail. Be certain to look closely to find the seams. Sand the large body pieces a bit with 400-grit sandpaper and they'll be easier to spot. Make sure you remove all of the molding seams, or they'll show up through your carefully applied finish!

3. After sanding see if there are any spots that may need to be filled. There are many types of hobby putty to help you with this. 

4. Next priming - yes, this is a pain but is so worth it. This will show any imperfections you may have missed so you can sand them out. One coat is usually all you need. Make sure to hold the spray can approximately 4 to 6 inches away from your project (using light feathering motions) to get an even coat.

5. Painting Tip- you can spray  directly on the piece or create a parts holder. There are many modeling YouTube videos that can help you with this.  I usually wear a latex glove and hold the larger pieces from the inside. For small pieces I spray them directly on the sprue frames and then touch them up by hand after I cut them off. 

6.  Ready to paint? The first tip I learned as a kid and I still use today is warming up the paint so it will flow better. This is very important with thick enamel paints. Cold paint has a tendency to develop an "orange peel" texture. To warm up the paint, fill a bowl (or the bottom of a sink) with about three inches of hot water. Stand the spray can in the hot water for a few minutes before you start painting. (do not put it on a stove or in the microwave, this will explode the can; just use hot tap water)

7. After drying off the can, shake the can vigorously for a couple of minutes, apply the first mist coat of paint to the model (you'll know it's mixing as you hear the metal marble inside rattling around. If you don't hear this sound, test the paint to see if it sprays as it may be really thick or a dried out can). Do a light dusting of paint and it shouldn't cover the entire surface. Repeat this at lease 6 times. These mist coats may seem like a nuisance to apply, but they're laying the foundation for optimum coverage once the wet coats are applied. Wait approximately 20 minutes between mist coats to allow the paint to set. This gives a great look for flat finishes.

8. Only for Gloss Coats -  The next coats should be heavier, "wet" coats, in which the paint glosses up during application. The trick to applying a wet coat is simple: Apply just enough paint so that the coating is wet and glossy, but not so much that it runs or drips. Mastering the art of the wet coat takes practice, but eventually becomes very natural. Take your time with this and practice on the inside of your model kit box.

9. EXTRA TIP - If you are wanting a show quality paint job polishing may be for you. If your paint job seems a bit uneven you can polish the finish with a 3,200-grit pad (the workhorse of the bunch), it will level the surface of the paint. Please use the pad dry because it's easier to determine when the texture has been removed. Work slowly when using this coarse grit, as it can easily cut through the paint and into the primer. Note it will give the model a dull finish, a sign that all of the surface texture has been removed.  Then you can wet-sand with a 12,000-grit pad, creating a nice luster to the paint's surface. 

10. If you don't wish to go through all the sanding polish can be applied by dabbing a small amount on a piece of flannel cloth and rubbing it into the surface of the paint using circular strokes. Afterward, the excess polish should be buffed off with a clean portion of the flannel cloth. 

11. To finish, I like using a clear coat spray. The finish depends on your project and if you want a flat, semi-gloss, gloss or high gloss look.  If you choose to apply clear gloss over a  color finish, be careful when you apply it. You have two choices: you can add the clear coat immediately after applying the last wet color coat, or you can apply the clear coat after the color coat has cured for at least a week or two. Some brands of clear gloss paint cure at a different rates than the color paints in the line. If you wait even a day to apply the clear gloss, the different curing rates may cause the clear finish to crack. 

So there you have it.  What did you think?  Please leave a comment to let us know your tips and ideas so others can get inspired in this fantastic hobby!

Thanks for reading and Happy Hobbying!


Please remember these are our opinions on what has worked for us and we are not responsible for anyone's projects that have been damaged or unsuccessful using these ideas.

Top 10 Model Building Tips for Beginners

Here is our top 10 model tips for beginners. Feel free to add your tips to the comments below!
Always read the instructions of your kit and follow the steps in order.


10. Use a hobby knife or sprue cutter to remove pieces from sprues. This give you a clean piece with no extra flashing, don't twist them off as you can ruin the pieces.

9.  Using a fine detail brush try to paint as many pieces when they're still on the sprue frame. This gives you more control and you don't need to worry about how you'll hold the tiny pieces while painting them.

8.  when using glue, less is usually more.  Put a small dab on glue on a bottle cap and use a tooth pick to control where the glue goes. Always 'dry fit' the part first so you know how it will fit before gluing.

7.  Applying water slide decals can be tricky.  Soak the decal for about 15 seconds it may curl, but wait and let it uncurl.  To place the decal, hold it to where it goes and slide it off the paper and onto the model. If the decal needs repositioning, then wet your fingers with water and move the decal into position carefully. There may be some residue from the glue, use a wet q-tip to clean it off being careful not to wipe the decal away. Allow the decal to fully dry before handling.

6.  Many sprues and model parts have the mould release agent still on them.  Make sure to immerse them in a shallow pan of mild dish detergent and warm water to rinse the chemical off and then dry completely.  Using extra fine grit sandpaper on the larger pieces works well too. Use a light touch so you don't sand off fine details.

5.  Always have your hobby area set up with whatever you need  for that kit. your model, glue, rag, thinner, sprue cutter, paint, brushes, dish of water, etc. If you don't have a designated spot and need to move your items around, use a cleaning caddy or toolbox to keep your supplies together and easy to transport.

4.  Never mix acrylic paint and enamel paint.  If you need to use both on your model kit paint one first and let it dry for a minimum of 6 hours, then paint with the other.  If you don't let the different paint types dry you may get a blister look.

3. When spray painting always use light coats. If you spray on too thick it may run or create an orange peel look to your paint job.

2. Did you glue your fingers together?  Never pull them apart!  Roll them apart or use nail polish remover or debonder to break down the glue bond.  If you got glue on any sensitive areas such as around your eyes or mouth, please go see a doctor and get them to assist you safely.

1.  HAVE FUN! If you get frustrated put the lids on your paint, thinner and glue, wash your brushes and go do something else for a while.  I've seen many model kits thrown at walls and out windows!  

Next week: Maintaining Action Figures Clothing

Chinook & Hobby West
"Where the Fun Begins!"
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6 Tips and Ideas to Customize Your Model Kit

So you've built a few model kits and you're ready to up your game and do something unique and different to your piece?

First, go check out your local hobby shop and get some ideas on what you may want to do to upgrade your model. Do you want to custom design and make your own decals? Change the interior? Add something completely different?

Ask yourself if this is for you or to enter in a show and what level you are building at. Be realistic with your skill level and remember with each kit you do, you're going to get better!

Painting is the most common way to make your model stand out. If you're brush painting, make sure to keep your brush strokes going in one direction for a better look.

When customizing your colours be sure to write down how much of each colour you're mixing so you can get an exact match each time. Who knows, someone may want that colour combo and ask you for the mix ratio. Use eyedroppers or pipettes to help with this.

Weathering can really add that "something special" to your custom build. It can make your piece look beat up and rusted or look as if it's just been though the mud. It can be used to create blaster marks on a Sci-fi kit, engine exhaust stains or peeling paint on a car.

It's all in how you use your paint and brush. For example for blaster marks use paint and brush to 'dry brush' the look you want. For a dusty look you can use chalks. Just make sure that after you create the weathered look you desire, seal it with a clear coat of Matte, Semi-Gloss or Gloss. You don't want to ruin that hard work.

Decals are a fun way to customize for beginner to intermediate builders. The majority of kits already have a sheet of decals ideal to your model choice, with sometimes two or three variant choices; But what if you want something unique to your imagination?  Decal sets and paper are just what you're looking for.

Basically decals are layers of paint built up on plastic film with a paper backing.  The glue is usually activated by water.  Your printer may be up to the task of creating your decals.

When using decals make sure to cut as close to the pattern as possible (nail or craft scissors work best for this). Dip your decal in water for the instructions set amount of time and add it to your model. You can use Microset to help the decal settle onto the model more snugly.  There are many articles and YouTube videos on how to use and apply decals. Practice makes perfect in this case.  Even the most expert model builders can have trouble with decals. Just take your time with it.

Finally, consider adding your model onto a Diorama to add dimension and truly get the feeling across to those looking at your creation. They can be as simple or complex as you want them to be. Ask your experienced local hobby shop for tips and ideas.

With the help of your local hobby shop's knowledgeable staff, checking out a few YouTube videos, researching articles like this one and your own imagination, you can create a potential masterpiece from a humble box of plastic and photo-etched parts.

Make sure to read these great blog articles too and share them with a friend:

• 10 Tips For Buying A Model Kit
• Basic Tips For Model Building

• Model Tips for Beginners - Part 2
• Model Kit Building And Painting Tips And Tricks

Please make sure to comment below if you have a tip to share!  Like our blog to get updates on the newest additions. We post every Thursday, alternating Trains and Model/Toys.

Also, make sure to check out our Website, Facebook and YouTube Channel for inspiration, learning and fun!

Thanks for reading

Happy Hobbying

Model Kit Building And Painting Tips And Tricks

Our staff here at Chinook & Hobby West have noticed many of the same questions from our beginner level model builders. We have done some research and pooled our own knowledge to share some tips and tricks to help you along your hobby adventure.

Please leave a comment below and let us know your tips, ideas or if this article helped you.
Enjoy and Happy Hobbying!

Building a Model

1. You need a designated space such as a large table with good lighting.
2. Read through the instructions a couple of times before you start.
3. Cut, don't snap off, individual parts from the plastic sprues.
4. Compare the parts included, to the list of parts in the instructions.
5. Smooth the edges of parts using a sanding stick or file to remove nubs and excess plastic resulting from manufacturing, then wash them in a mild detergent and allow to dry. Make sure to use gentle pressure when sanding so you don't take too much off.
6. Collect your tools.
7. Follow the parts assembly sequence exactly. Be patient and don't jump ahead.

Extra Tips
-Use the minimum amount of glue necessary to make a solid bond. 
-Enhance your assembled model by filling in gaps with putty and carefully sanding the filled surface.

Come down and see us at Chinook & Hobby West or email us if you have any questions.

Painting Your Model

1. Do some research if you're building a replica. Every era has incorporated its own style. A replica of a Cadillac painted pink would not be an accurate model of the original car but may be your vision of your dream car.
2. If you can, find a modeler's club and learn hands-on tips from more experienced modelers. There are some great online forums on the internet.
3. Plan your paint scheme if you're doing your own design. Write down the colours you're thinking about so you don't forget that vision.
4. Work on a clean surface.
5. Clean your model. Use rubbing alcohol or plastic prep and let the model dry thoroughly. This helps to remove all oil and any other contamination, including excess glue.
6. Put the model or model part on a paint stand or on a drop cloth.
7. Shake the spray can thoroughly to mix paint properly.
8. Test the nozzle by spraying a piece of cardboard, such as the inside lid of your model box.
9. Plan on multiple thin coats rather than one thick coat.
10. Start spraying to one side of the model, stroke over the model, and spray past the model before you stop.  Keeping the spray about 6 to 8 inches away from the project.

Extra Tips 
-Aerosol spray paints are good, but you may want to invest in an airbrush as you grow in the hobby.  
-Bright, shiny finishes can be achieved by painting the desired color, letting the model dry, spraying with a clear coat, and then finishing with a buffing compound. 
-Complete the detail work as necessary with fine-tipped artist brushes.
-Use thinners for your type of paint (acrylic thinner for acrylic paint) when brush painting.
-Paint in a ventilated area. 

-Wear a painter's mask if you are sensitive to smells. 
-Many experienced modelers suggest using primers when painting.

We hope that these tips and tricks help you create a piece you can be proud of.  Remember to have patience, take your time and if you get frustrated, walk away (after you clean up). You can always go back to it later!

Please leave a comment and remember, these ideas are not finite; there are so many things to try and experiment with.  Have FUN!

These tips are suggestions and we are not responsible for damage or accidents that occur to your project.

10 Tips For Buying A Model Kit

Generally a model kit contains a scale model of an object or vehicle - automobile, aircraft, military vehicle, motor, building, replica figure, etc. (there are many to look at and choose from). Such kits include all the necessary pieces of the idea photo on the box (make sure to ask if you are unsure as some buildings show fences and trees, but these are sold separately or just a special part(s) of a larger model), which the hobbyist assembles and then personalizes with paints and decals (usually sold separately).
With model kits, there are two primary types of hobbyists: the builder and the collector. The builder fancies the challenge and the hands-on aspect. The collector, on the other hand, focuses on the possessing, and many collectors opt to display the kits untouched, in their original packaging.

Buying a Model Kit

For the new hobbyist, buying a model kit can be a daunting task simply due to the sheer amount of choice that’s available. Collectors have to choose a vehicle and the scale at which they want to work. Then, they have to factor in price, complexity, customization, tools and supplies, and so forth. If the desired model is no longer manufactured, then the hobbyist has to deal with a series of additional concerns, including appreciation. Choosing a kit is not simple, but even the new hobbyist can avoid the most common pitfalls by following these 10 tips:

1. Research Model Kit Types

The first step is awareness of the various types of kits that are available. The traditional model kit, often called Snap-Tite or Skill Level 1, is made of plastic and simply snaps together. Snap-Tite kits are very newbie-friendly and usually only require mild filing and light gluing to complete.  Experienced hobbyists will eventually graduate to Skill 2 requiring glue and paint and to any of the more advanced Skill 3-5 kits as well as die cast models and radio-controlled vehicles.

2. Choose a Vehicle Type

The next step is to choose the type or class of vehicle. The most popular model kit classes are classic, sports car, NASCAR, hot rod, truck, and service vehicles. Classic car models tend to focus on American muscle, but there are models available for the classics from all over the world. Skill 1 classics tend to be the most accessible kind of kits for the beginner. Hot rods are roadsters, typically open wheel, that have very distinctive aesthetics and engine mount configurations. Hot rods make great looking models, but they can be quite challenging in the building and customization stages. The most popular type of automotive model kit is the sports car model (Corvette, Austin Martin, Ferrari, etc), a class that focuses on street legal sports cars from all years and from all around the world. In the U.S., NASCAR models rival the sports car and classic car classes in overall popularity. The service vehicle class, which are intricate and challenging, includes vehicles like fire trucks, ambulances, snowplows, and so forth.
And just to add to the pile, don't forget Military vehicles, aircraft and ships.

3. Select an Interesting Subject

When choosing a particular model, collectors should opt for a subject that engages them. A Porsche 911 is very popular and a staple in most automotive model collections, but it can also be very boring due to that commonness. Rather than choosing a model based on what is already known, the collector should shop around until a model chooses them. Finding a model car that is aesthetically interesting, challenging to build but still suitable to the beginner, can be difficult, but such models are available.

4. Decide on Scale

The next step is to choose the scale of the model. The most common model size for a car is 1:25 (and manufacturers often use 1:24 rather than 1:25), which is approximately 6 to 7 inches long. In Europe, 1:18 is also very popular. The 1:18 kits are approximately 9 inches long. There are also 1:60 scale kits, which are approximately 3 inches long and are particularly well suited to the small hands of a young child. Small kits are also popular among collectors and builders who enjoy the miniaturization aspect, but tiny kits can require a great deal of patience and fine hand control.
We will discuss in a future blog about the different scales in military, ships and aircraft.

5. Evaluate the Complexity

After choosing the model and scale, consider the complexity of the kit. The first gauge of complexity is the number of pieces in the kit. A Skill 1 kit usually has less than 50 pieces. A Skill 2 kit can have up to 200 pieces. A Skill 3-5 kit can have 200-1500 or more pieces and include many fine parts.
Skill 1 kits are preferable for beginners, children, and adult builders who just want a relaxed experience. Most children can complete a Skill 1 kit with little supervision and only occasional help. Skill 2 or higher kits require additional skills, tools, and supplies. Be aware that choosing a complex model that the builder isn’t ready for can intimidate and overwhelm the builder and therefore loose interest in a very enjoyable hobby.

6. Consider Customization Options and Necessities

An often hidden aspect of model building is the optional, and sometimes necessary, customization and personalization of the model. Automotive model kits are often labeled 2-in-1, 3-in-1, and so on; what that means is that the build process has a branch that allows for multiple finishes. For instance, many classic car kits come in a 3-in-1 configuration, which means that the collector can build it as a stock car, custom car, or race car. Many hobbyists opt to build these kits in all variants and display them alongside each other. First-time builders, however, should consider a basic kit that has no variants for simplicity.

7. Consider the Needed Tools and Supplies

Another important consideration is tools and supplies. The beginner will require basic hobby tools, such as a hobby knife, tweezers, paint, a fine file, and modeling glue/cement. Skill 2 and higher kits, however, will require a range of hobby knives and files as well as putty, sanding paper, spur cutters and perhaps a rotary tool or other power tools. Diecast models require metalworking tools, and radio-controlled models require batteries, an electronic motor, controller, and so forth.

8. Opt for a New Automotive Model Kit

Manufacturers produce kits in runs, which are typically time-limited. Once a run ends, the kit then becomes vintage and begins to appreciate in value. Vintage model cars sell at many times their original sticker price. For the builder, the most common reason to buy vintage is to get a particular classic car, which tend to go in and out of production. Although this will limit the hobbyist’s options, the beginner should focus on new kits in order to work with modern materials and avoid the vintage premium. (many kits are done in a re-release at milestone marks such as the 10th, 25th or 50th year anniversary of that kit or the car/piece)

9. When Buying Vintage, Price It and Haggle for It

If the collector opts to purchase a vintage model, then they should price it first. Price guides will provide a general appraisal, and the Internet is a powerful resource to determine the actual going rate. When buying a vintage model, shop around; check online, local shops, garage sales and shows/conventions. Once found, don’t settle for the listed price, which is generally a best-case scenario for the vendor.
(Be realistic in your negotiations you don't want to insult the one selling the kit in case you want to buy from them again)

10. New Builders Should Have a Contingency Plan

New builders should have a contingency plan because first builds usually do not go according to plan. A benefit of buying a current kit is that the collector can easily purchase an additional kit from the store or replacement parts directly from the manufacturer. Some vendors sell open box kits, which may be missing parts but are a cost-effective way to have spare parts on hand.

Conclusion

Buying a model kit for the first time can be difficult due to the sheer amount of choice available. A hobbyist’s first step should be to educate himself or herself on the various options that are available: classes, models, scales, books and other sources. Next, the beginner should choose a subject that interests them, but also one that isn’t so complex that makes it difficult to learn. With the first build under one's belt, the builder will be able to graduate to one of the more intricate kits the next time, and go into dioramas - but that's another blog......

What did you think of this article?  Please email us or comment on this post and let us know your thoughts and questions.

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Frequently asked questions about Model Building

Welcome to Chinook Hobby Talk Blog! Ready to learn something?

There are so many great books to get started into a hobby or to hone your techniques.

One of our fav's for Car and Truck plastic model building is:

Here are some beginner questions we get asked:

What is a scale model? 
A scale model is a miniature representation of either the real thing or a vehicle from the builder's imagination. Most scale models are made from kits, but some are made from scratch. Modelers strive to build with care so the result looks like the real thing. Careful research from books, photos, and observing the full-size subjects comes into play. Builders try to eliminate seams and create realistic paint jobs, along with adding extra details. 

What is meant by scale?
The scale of a model determines its size in relation to the real thing. A model in 1/25 scale is one twenty-fifth the size of the original. In other words, it would take 25 models end-to-end to span the measurement of the actual subject. 

What is a vacuum-formed kit?
Like an injection-molded kit, these are made from plastic. But vacuum-formed kit parts are heat-pressed into sheets of styrene plastic. Each part must be cut from the sheet, the edges of the parts must be sanded, and a few other special steps must be introduced to the building process to get these kits together. A vacuum-formed kit can be assembled with plastic cements, superglues, or epoxies. They usually are not for beginners, but often may be the only kits available of certain subjects. You should have a couple of years of experience with injection-molded kits before trying one of these. Vacuum-formed kits are generally manufactured and sold by small aftermarket companies. 

What is a resin kit?
Instead of being molded with hot plastic as injection-molded and vacuum-formed kits are, resin kits are made from liquid resins poured into silicone rubber molds. The liquid resin sets after a few minutes, and the molds are separated to release the parts. Resin kits usually are of subjects that are not available in injection-molded kits, and they can be expensive. You must use super glue or epoxy to build resin kits. Like vacuum-formed kits, resin kits are made and sold by aftermarket companies. 

What are photo-etched parts?
These are fine detail parts that usually are obtained as aftermarket items. Parts such as instrument panels, seat buckles, louvers, and grilles, are photographically transferred onto thin sheet metal. Areas outside the images of the parts are etched away in a chemical bath. These add-on parts take some experience to handle and install, but they can improve the look and detail level of a model. 

What kind of cement should I use?
Most plastic kits can be built with tube or liquid-type plastic cements. Superglues (also known as CA for cyanoacrylate) and epoxies also can be used on plastic kits, and will work with other materials such as resin, metal, and wood. 

How can I use superglue on my models?
Superglue can be used to put kits together, and gap-filling superglues (thick formulas) can be used to fill seams and depressions. Cured superglue can be sanded and polished just like plastic. 

Are there kits for people just starting out in modeling?
Yes. Dozens of simple kits have parts that snap together. You won't need glue to assemble them, and you may not need to paint them, either. You can move on to more complex kits after you get your feet wet. 

What kind of paints should I use on a scale model?
Several brands are available, usually in hobby shops. Enamels are oil-based paints and they require paint thinner to thin and clean up. Enamels are easy to apply and come in a wide assortment of colors. Enamels also are available in spray cans, many matching bottled paints in the same line. Water-based acrylic hobby paints are becoming more popular. They are more difficult to airbrush, but they are less toxic than enamels. Most acrylics are thinned and clean up with water. Automotive lacquers, such as touch-up paints, are also used by many builders. Their advantage is they go on thin. These paints require the use of primer, and are very toxic, so a two-stage respirator and sufficient ventilation should be used when spraying them. 

How does a modeler decide which scale to build?
Some modelers prefer to work in one scale only so they can see the size relationship of their subjects. But others may not be concerned with constant scale. If there is only one kit of the subject they are looking for, then that is the model they will build. Usually, large scale models have the best detail, but the variety of subjects is limited. Automobiles usually are found in 1/24 or 1/25 scales. There are some kits in 1/12, 1/16, and 1/20, and 1/43 offers a wide variety of kits and finished models. 

What is stretched sprue?
The material that the parts of a plastic kit are attached to is called sprue. Modelers occasionally use this raw material to produce new parts for their models. For example, by heating the sprue over a candle flame, it can be stretched as thin as hair or bent to produce other shapes. Stretched sprue often is used to represent antennas. 

What are pin marks and mold seams?
During the injection-molding process, certain blemishes appear on the parts. Ejector pins that push the parts from the mold often leave small circular marks on the part. Mold seams sometimes are visible too. They appear as small raised lines along the line where the halves of the mold separate. Modelers try to eliminate these blemishes on their models with filler and sandpaper. 

What is detailing?
Modelers often add details to their models that are not provided in the kits. Some details, such as improved instruments, seats, seat belts, antennas, engine accessories, and decals, are available as aftermarket items, but some modelers make their own improvements. 

Of course there have been many more questions and we are open to answering yours too!  Drop us an email with your questions to hobbywest@shaw.ca and we can help you.

Please feel free to leave comments below!

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Model Tips for Beginners - Part 2

Previously we did a Blog on  Basic Tips For Model Building for beginners that takes you step by step through some basic steps on building a model kit.  

The following are some questions that some of you, our customers, have asked either through email, social media or here at our store.  If we haven't answered your question, please send us an email or come down and see us here at Chinook & Hobby West!

Make sure to check out Part 1 from last week:

• Removing parts from frames (also known as runners or sprues)
• Removing Decals for beginners
• What type of glue or cement should I use?

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What type of paint is best to use?
There are dozens of different paints sold in hobby and craft stores, hardware stores, and chain stores. We generally suggest that you try to stay with paint made specifically for plastic models. Most hobby paints will be either:

• Enamel, which you will need to use paint thinner or turpentine to clean your brushes and equipment, or
• Acrylic, which is water based so water will clean brushes and equipment.

You must clean the unpainted plastic parts prior to painting because paint may not adhere to the parts otherwise. This will remove the oily mold release spray that is added during manufacturing. To clean, put a few drops of a liquid dish or hand soap on an old toothbrush and give the parts a quick scrubbing. Let the parts air dry.

Many modelers like to use spray paints for the largest parts of their model, such as car bodies or aircraft fuselages because sprays will provide a better finish. Usually smaller detail parts are painted with a brush using bottled paints.

Some general guidelines when using sprays are:

• Use a coat of primer before spraying on your paint. Some paints may "craze" or attack the plastic surface depending on the paint's ingredients.
• Don't attempt to cover the part with one coat of paint. You want to spray several very light coats to build up the coverage. Paint coats that are too heavy cause runs and loss of engraved detail. Follow the directions on the can, but generally you'll want to wait 15-20 minutes between paint coats.
• It's best to stick with the same manufacturer for the different types of paints you use on the same model (primer, color and clear, if you use a clear coat). Putting one manufacturer's paints over another may cause them to react with each other.
• Let the paint dry completely before handling or trying to polish out the paint. Although it may seem dry on the surface, a good way to tell if the paint is fully cured is to hold the model up to your nose, if you can still smell the paint, it's probably not dry yet.

Why can't I find colors like fiery yellows and leafy greens in paints?
There are a variety of manufacturers that make an almost universal variety of paint colors that are compatible with plastic models. Testors, Tamiya, Humbrol, Floquil and Badger are just some of the companies you may want to check out. Rust-O-Leum is also safe because it is fish oil based, but always test first to be sure.

Don't be afraid to look in military, automotive, marine or any other category for paint. It's the color that counts, not the name on the bottle.

How can I fix a mistake in my paint job?
Your model should be quite salvageable. First thing, do NOT use sandpaper. There are a number of products that will remove most paints from styrene plastic safely. We recommend using products made specifically for this purpose, such as Scale Coat or Easy Lift Off by Floquil. Once you have stripped the paint from your model, wash and dry it thoroughly and re-prime. You should be good to go!

Why do I sometimes get bubbles in my paint?
There are a number of possibilities that could cause bubbles in your paint, but one of the most common is residual mold release left from the manufacturing process. Before painting any model, wash it with dish soap and dry thoroughly. Be sure to prime your model before painting so any imperfections may be resolved before applying your finish coat.

Is it better to paint the model before or after it's built?
Generally, you will have better results by painting your model before assembling it. An exception is to first glue together small parts of an assembly if they will all be the same color and painting it as a unit.

Decals: Types & Application

How do I apply decals?
Revell SnapTite® (Skill Level 1) kits contain "Peel 'n Stick" self-adhesive decals that are applied by simply peeling the image from the paper backing and applying to the model. Kits that require glue (Skill Levels 2 & 3) have traditional waterslide decals.

To apply a waterslide decal:

• Cut apart the individual images from the sheet.
• Dip the decal into lukewarm water for 1 or 2 minutes. Take the decal from the water and see if the image will move or slide on the paper backing. If not, return to the water for a few more seconds.
• Once the decal will slide on the backing, put the decal and backing on a paper towel for a few seconds to remove the excess water.
• Then bring the decal up to where on the model you want to apply it and slide the image from the paper backing onto the model. While wet, you can still move the image on the model a bit to position it just where you want it. If there are any air bubbles under the decal, gently push the bubble toward one of the edges of the decal with a wet Q-tip or edge of a paper towel to remove it.
• When the decal is in position, simply leave it air dry and it will stay in place.

Many hobby shops will sell various decal setting solutions that will help the decal conform to sharply curved surfaces. We suggest trying out the specific solution you wish to use on an unused decal from the same sheet applied to a piece of scrap plastic to make sure the solution will not react with the decal. If you wish to spray a clear coat over your decals, the clear paint you intend on using should be tested first using the same method.

I am a first-time model maker and am having difficulty removing the decals from the page to apply to model. Do you have any suggestions for application?
Decals should be dipped in lukewarm water for only a moment and then set on a paper towel to let the water soak in and dissolve the adhesive that holds the decal on the paper. The decal will curl up, and then unroll after a short time. At this point the decals should be able to be moved around on the backing paper and slid into location on the model. Once in place they can be dabbed with the tip of a paper towel or tissue to soak up excessive water.

My model requires that I put the gas cap on before the decals. How are you supposed to fit the decals over the gas cap?
The best way to do it would be to apply the decals first, and then with a sharp hobby knife make an "X" pattern hole in the decal and then install the gas cap.

For a tutorial on putting on very small decals Click Here

Replacement Parts

I bought a very old kit from a garage sale, at a swap meet, or on Ebay. Do you still have parts and decals for it?
Although we do our best to fulfill requests for missing parts, many of the kits available through collectors or other independent sources were released many decades ago. These kits can make wonderful collector's items, but it is unlikely that we will still have parts for them.

If this is the case, you might want to contact another collector through an online forum. Collectors will sometimes seek out multiple copies of the same kit so they can combine them and have one complete kit with some extra parts. You may be able to arrange a swap or purchase that way.

We usually suggest that you try going directly to the manufacturer of the model kit.

Why do models sometimes look different on the box than what's in the kit?
Although manufacturers try to make sure that the box art represents the actual model kit, in some instances there may be small variations in what is shown. Sometimes, the hand-made master model is used for the box art photo because the actual kit production hasn't been completed. Or, the producer of the actual prototype may make changes after the model tooling is committed for production. In either case, the differences will be subtle and will not affect the overall model kit subject.

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