Showing posts with label diecast. Show all posts
Showing posts with label diecast. Show all posts

Monday, 7 July 2014

10 Tips For Buying A Model Kit



Generally a model kit contains a scale model of an object or vehicle - automobile, aircraft, military vehicle, motor, building, replica figure, etc. (there are many to look at and choose from). Such kits include all the necessary pieces of the idea photo on the box (make sure to ask if you are unsure as some buildings show fences and trees, but these are sold separately or just a special part(s) of a larger model), which the hobbyist assembles and then personalizes with paints and decals (usually sold separately).
With model kits, there are two primary types of hobbyists: the builder and the collector. The builder fancies the challenge and the hands-on aspect. The collector, on the other hand, focuses on the possessing, and many collectors opt to display the kits untouched, in their original packaging.

Buying a Model Kit

For the new hobbyist, buying a model kit can be a daunting task simply due to the sheer amount of choice that’s available. Collectors have to choose a vehicle and the scale at which they want to work. Then, they have to factor in price, complexity, customization, tools and supplies, and so forth. If the desired model is no longer manufactured, then the hobbyist has to deal with a series of additional concerns, including appreciation. Choosing a kit is not simple, but even the new hobbyist can avoid the most common pitfalls by following these 10 tips:

1. Research Model Kit Types

The first step is awareness of the various types of kits that are available. The traditional model kit, often called Snap-Tite or Skill Level 1, is made of plastic and simply snaps together. Snap-Tite kits are very newbie-friendly and usually only require mild filing and light gluing to complete.  Experienced hobbyists will eventually graduate to Skill 2 requiring glue and paint and to any of the more advanced Skill 3-5 kits as well as die cast models and radio-controlled vehicles.


2. Choose a Vehicle Type

The next step is to choose the type or class of vehicle. The most popular model kit classes are classic, sports car, NASCAR, hot rod, truck, and service vehicles. Classic car models tend to focus on American muscle, but there are models available for the classics from all over the world. Skill 1 classics tend to be the most accessible kind of kits for the beginner. Hot rods are roadsters, typically open wheel, that have very distinctive aesthetics and engine mount configurations. Hot rods make great looking models, but they can be quite challenging in the building and customization stages. The most popular type of automotive model kit is the sports car model (Corvette, Austin Martin, Ferrari, etc), a class that focuses on street legal sports cars from all years and from all around the world. In the U.S., NASCAR models rival the sports car and classic car classes in overall popularity. The service vehicle class, which are intricate and challenging, includes vehicles like fire trucks, ambulances, snowplows, and so forth.
And just to add to the pile, don't forget Military vehicles, aircraft and ships.

3. Select an Interesting Subject

When choosing a particular model, collectors should opt for a subject that engages them. A Porsche 911 is very popular and a staple in most automotive model collections, but it can also be very boring due to that commonness. Rather than choosing a model based on what is already known, the collector should shop around until a model chooses them. Finding a model car that is aesthetically interesting, challenging to build but still suitable to the beginner, can be difficult, but such models are available.

4. Decide on Scale

The next step is to choose the scale of the model. The most common model size for a car is 1:25 (and manufacturers often use 1:24 rather than 1:25), which is approximately 6 to 7 inches long. In Europe, 1:18 is also very popular. The 1:18 kits are approximately 9 inches long. There are also 1:60 scale kits, which are approximately 3 inches long and are particularly well suited to the small hands of a young child. Small kits are also popular among collectors and builders who enjoy the miniaturization aspect, but tiny kits can require a great deal of patience and fine hand control.
We will discuss in a future blog about the different scales in military, ships and aircraft.

5. Evaluate the Complexity

After choosing the model and scale, consider the complexity of the kit. The first gauge of complexity is the number of pieces in the kit. A Skill 1 kit usually has less than 50 pieces. A Skill 2 kit can have up to 200 pieces. A Skill 3-5 kit can have 200-1500 or more pieces and include many fine parts.
Skill 1 kits are preferable for beginners, children, and adult builders who just want a relaxed experience. Most children can complete a Skill 1 kit with little supervision and only occasional help. Skill 2 or higher kits require additional skills, tools, and supplies. Be aware that choosing a complex model that the builder isn’t ready for can intimidate and overwhelm the builder and therefore loose interest in a very enjoyable hobby.

6. Consider Customization Options and Necessities

An often hidden aspect of model building is the optional, and sometimes necessary, customization and personalization of the model. Automotive model kits are often labeled 2-in-1, 3-in-1, and so on; what that means is that the build process has a branch that allows for multiple finishes. For instance, many classic car kits come in a 3-in-1 configuration, which means that the collector can build it as a stock car, custom car, or race car. Many hobbyists opt to build these kits in all variants and display them alongside each other. First-time builders, however, should consider a basic kit that has no variants for simplicity.

7. Consider the Needed Tools and Supplies

Another important consideration is tools and supplies. The beginner will require basic hobby tools, such as a hobby knife, tweezers, paint, a fine file, and modeling glue/cement. Skill 2 and higher kits, however, will require a range of hobby knives and files as well as putty, sanding paper, spur cutters and perhaps a rotary tool or other power tools. Diecast models require metalworking tools, and radio-controlled models require batteries, an electronic motor, controller, and so forth.

8. Opt for a New Automotive Model Kit

Manufacturers produce kits in runs, which are typically time-limited. Once a run ends, the kit then becomes vintage and begins to appreciate in value. Vintage model cars sell at many times their original sticker price. For the builder, the most common reason to buy vintage is to get a particular classic car, which tend to go in and out of production. Although this will limit the hobbyist’s options, the beginner should focus on new kits in order to work with modern materials and avoid the vintage premium. (many kits are done in a re-release at milestone marks such as the 10th, 25th or 50th year anniversary of that kit or the car/piece)


9. When Buying Vintage, Price It and Haggle for It

If the collector opts to purchase a vintage model, then they should price it first. Price guides will provide a general appraisal, and the Internet is a powerful resource to determine the actual going rate. When buying a vintage model, shop around; check online, local shops, garage sales and shows/conventions. Once found, don’t settle for the listed price, which is generally a best-case scenario for the vendor.
(Be realistic in your negotiations you don't want to insult the one selling the kit in case you want to buy from them again)

10. New Builders Should Have a Contingency Plan

New builders should have a contingency plan because first builds usually do not go according to plan. A benefit of buying a current kit is that the collector can easily purchase an additional kit from the store or replacement parts directly from the manufacturer. Some vendors sell open box kits, which may be missing parts but are a cost-effective way to have spare parts on hand.


Conclusion

Buying a model kit for the first time can be difficult due to the sheer amount of choice available. A hobbyist’s first step should be to educate himself or herself on the various options that are available: classes, models, scales, books and other sources. Next, the beginner should choose a subject that interests them, but also one that isn’t so complex that makes it difficult to learn. With the first build under one's belt, the builder will be able to graduate to one of the more intricate kits the next time, and go into dioramas - but that's another blog......

What did you think of this article?  Please email us or comment on this post and let us know your thoughts and questions.




partial source 

Friday, 26 April 2013

Decal Tips

Our Staff has complied some Decal Setting Tips:

There are so many ways to decal, almost as many ways as there are decals!
Here is one of the easiest:
 - do a light spray coat of the same finish as the decal (gloss for glossed decal, matte for matte decal) let dry.
 - apply waterslide decal and position, let it dry then apply decal set to get the decal to snuggle into place.
 - when dry, clear cote with your desired look (matte, gloss, satin, etc.)
 
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
here is one recipe for getting a decal to lay down flat and stick.
 
1.  Use fresh decals.  After a year, or more, the film dries out and cracks and tears. 
 
2.  Apply over a good coat of paint. 
 
3.  While dry (before wetting)  cut the individual decals loose from the main sheet with a small pair of scissors.   Trim the decal closely, removing as much excess decal film as possible.  Trim all the corners round to prevent a loose corner from lifting up.
 
4.  Soak decals one by one in water, in a saucer.  The decal paper may curl, wait for it to flatten (after a few seconds),  lift decal and paper backing from the water. Carefully slide the decal off the backing paper and lay flat in the proper place.
* The decal adhesive is water  soluble. If you leave the decal in the water too long the adhesive washes away and then the decal won't stick.  *
 The decal film may want to stick to your finger and wrap itself up like a pretzel.  Don't let it, you will never get it straightened out again.  Steer the 
decal film to the proper place and get it square and centered.  A small paint brush or a needle or the point of a #11 Xacto knife all work to steer the decal.  Blot up excess water with a Kleenex.  Too much water and the decal will swim away from it's proper spot.  Let it dry long enough to stick in place. 
 
5.  Apply decal setting solution.  We carry Walther's Solvaset  & Microscale's - Micro Sol.  The setting solution is mostly formaldehyde which softens the decal film and lets it settle down around
 surface details- like rivets.  DO NOT attempt to move a decal after applying the setting solution, the decal softens 
so much that it will tear.  Let dry over night.
 
6.  After decals are good and dry, spray a coat of DullCote over it to make the decal film blend in. (Testor's DullCote). 
 
These tips are our opinions and they work for us. They may or may not work to your satisfaction.

Product Tip:


Here is Microscale's description for each product:
 
"Micro Set is a very versatile decal setting solution that does several things to the Microscale Decals to improve application. Micro Set should be applied to the surface of the model where you will be sliding off the decal. This prepares the surface with special wetting agents that cuts the oils in new paint and converts the adhesive on the back of the decal to a stronger and more lasting one. And finally, Micro Set slightly softens the decals film to make it more flexible so that it can conform better 
to the model's surface. Better adhesion by the decal to the model prevents tiny air bells from occurring and results in an invisible carrier film or the so called 'painted on look'. "
 
"Micro Sol setting solution is for the most difficult irregular surfaces you find on models. It completely softens the  Decal allowing it to drape down onto the surface of the model conforming perfectly and without distortion. You can get the most amazing results in seemingly impossible places, because Micro Sol actually makes the decal part of the paint. For that reason you should coat Micro Sol on for only a few seconds and then leave it alone, it does the work. Do not touch until dry as the decal is very soft at this stage and could be easily damaged. "

~~There are many different products to use with decals, these are the ones our guys like to use. If you have a different suggestion or something to add, we would love to hear it!
Valerie

Thursday, 13 October 2011

Charity Event and Grand Opening! Fun and Surprises!

Come celebrate with us!
October 15th 2011 9:30 am – 5:30 pm
It’s our 39th Anniversary of Chinook & Hobby West
AND Our GRAND OPENING of our North Location

                     Supporting The Calgary Food Bank & The Make-A-Wish Southern Alberta



v  50% off Red Tag Merchandise (Oct 15th & 16th only – Discount with donation)
v  25% off Regular Priced Merchandise (Oct 15th & 16th – Discount with donation only)
v  Free BBQ Sponsored by M &M Meat Shops
v  Live Action Star Wars Characters from the 501st & Rebel Alliance
v  Get a keepsake photograph with your favorite character (with donation)
v  Surprises for kids and adults (October 15th only)


Monday, 19 September 2011

Collecting Diecast Cars

By Jesse Millington

When you hear Camaro SS 396, Boss 302, Hemi or Buick GS, the first thing that comes to mind is a nice, old, fast and expensive muscle car. One we love but may never own. We admire them at car shows and never think we can have one.

Do not fear though because you can own one, just smaller! What I'm talking about is collecting Diecast Metal Cars and enjoying that car passion weather its '50's Cruisers, Muscle Cars, Exotics or Tuners.

Having that small piece of automotive history in your hands gives a great sense of pride in collecting what you love and want.  It doesn't matter if you want to fill a vast basement, small room (TV room looks great with diecast cars...), or even just that spot in your office or garage wall dedicated to that one special piece or many exciting pieces. Collecting diecast can really bring the satisfaction and joy of owning 'that car'.

Starting off as a beginner I recommend doing some research on what you like and seeing if its available.  Search online, come see us (or your local hobby store) to help in the search.  Or if you like the hunt, go to local Flea Markets, garage sales, Toys R Us (there is no age limit in the toy isles!) or Wal-Marts.

People may not understand why you like those cars you've chosen but its for your pleasure not theirs. Maybe it was a first car you owned and experienced freedom or one you saw in a chase scene in a favorite movie. Maybe it was while walking down the street and some old greaser laid a 10 footer of rubber and was gone!

I always say, collect what you like because in the end, you own it, you'll enjoy it so make it worth your money and time!!!  Have fun!

Tuesday, 13 September 2011

Two Locations to serve you better!!!

We now have two locations here in Calgary to serve you, our Customer, better!  Our main store is located at 5011 MacLeod Tr. SW and our new second location is located at 2604-4 St. NW.

Hours for both:
Mon. to Fri. - 9:30 - 9
Saturdays - 9:30 - 5:30
Sundays - 12 - 5
Select Holidays - 12 - 5