Create a Great Paint Job From Spray Cans

Have you every tried to use spray cans to paint your model only to have dripping runs or that 'orange peel' look? We've pooled together our collective knowledge to share some of our favourite tips and ideas.

There are many modelers think spray cans are amateurish and not very precise, and that the only way to build a show quality model is to use an airbrush. That's so untrue! There are a lot of good reasons to use aerosol spray paint.

Currently, there are so many excellent aerosol paints available for model builders, they all have their great qualities. Testors is the front runner with an excellent selection of both stock and custom colors in enamels, and Tamiya's lacquers have fantastic pigments. Some others (not all available at your local hobby shop) add to the huge array of commercially available paints such as Krylon, Dupli-Color, Plasti-kote, and there are more. It may sound odd, but I rarely use an airbrush!

Each of these lines are available in gloss, semigloss, and flat varieties, and can be used to vary the surfaces of flat, semigloss, and metallic paints, adding even more variety to the mix. You can use these differences to your advantage to add more visual interest to your model. 

The first thing anyone is going to notice about your model is the paint job, so read on to learn how to paint, prepare and finish that model on your hobby table.

1. Select the colours for your model kit. Also, check out your local hobby shop or bookstore for awesome reference and idea books. (Remember that for military kits flat colour are best, but if you need to use semi-gloss or gloss for the colour you like to can use a flat finish at the end to make it all uniform flat)

2. On any kit your going to need to remove the molding seams and flashing left by the molding process. These can be hard to spot on some kits, a credit to the manufacturer's attention to detail. Be certain to look closely to find the seams. Sand the large body pieces a bit with 400-grit sandpaper and they'll be easier to spot. Make sure you remove all of the molding seams, or they'll show up through your carefully applied finish!

3. After sanding see if there are any spots that may need to be filled. There are many types of hobby putty to help you with this. 

4. Next priming - yes, this is a pain but is so worth it. This will show any imperfections you may have missed so you can sand them out. One coat is usually all you need. Make sure to hold the spray can approximately 4 to 6 inches away from your project (using light feathering motions) to get an even coat.

5. Painting Tip- you can spray  directly on the piece or create a parts holder. There are many modeling YouTube videos that can help you with this.  I usually wear a latex glove and hold the larger pieces from the inside. For small pieces I spray them directly on the sprue frames and then touch them up by hand after I cut them off. 

6.  Ready to paint? The first tip I learned as a kid and I still use today is warming up the paint so it will flow better. This is very important with thick enamel paints. Cold paint has a tendency to develop an "orange peel" texture. To warm up the paint, fill a bowl (or the bottom of a sink) with about three inches of hot water. Stand the spray can in the hot water for a few minutes before you start painting. (do not put it on a stove or in the microwave, this will explode the can; just use hot tap water)

7. After drying off the can, shake the can vigorously for a couple of minutes, apply the first mist coat of paint to the model (you'll know it's mixing as you hear the metal marble inside rattling around. If you don't hear this sound, test the paint to see if it sprays as it may be really thick or a dried out can). Do a light dusting of paint and it shouldn't cover the entire surface. Repeat this at lease 6 times. These mist coats may seem like a nuisance to apply, but they're laying the foundation for optimum coverage once the wet coats are applied. Wait approximately 20 minutes between mist coats to allow the paint to set. This gives a great look for flat finishes.

8. Only for Gloss Coats -  The next coats should be heavier, "wet" coats, in which the paint glosses up during application. The trick to applying a wet coat is simple: Apply just enough paint so that the coating is wet and glossy, but not so much that it runs or drips. Mastering the art of the wet coat takes practice, but eventually becomes very natural. Take your time with this and practice on the inside of your model kit box.

9. EXTRA TIP - If you are wanting a show quality paint job polishing may be for you. If your paint job seems a bit uneven you can polish the finish with a 3,200-grit pad (the workhorse of the bunch), it will level the surface of the paint. Please use the pad dry because it's easier to determine when the texture has been removed. Work slowly when using this coarse grit, as it can easily cut through the paint and into the primer. Note it will give the model a dull finish, a sign that all of the surface texture has been removed.  Then you can wet-sand with a 12,000-grit pad, creating a nice luster to the paint's surface. 

10. If you don't wish to go through all the sanding polish can be applied by dabbing a small amount on a piece of flannel cloth and rubbing it into the surface of the paint using circular strokes. Afterward, the excess polish should be buffed off with a clean portion of the flannel cloth. 

11. To finish, I like using a clear coat spray. The finish depends on your project and if you want a flat, semi-gloss, gloss or high gloss look.  If you choose to apply clear gloss over a  color finish, be careful when you apply it. You have two choices: you can add the clear coat immediately after applying the last wet color coat, or you can apply the clear coat after the color coat has cured for at least a week or two. Some brands of clear gloss paint cure at a different rates than the color paints in the line. If you wait even a day to apply the clear gloss, the different curing rates may cause the clear finish to crack. 

So there you have it.  What did you think?  Please leave a comment to let us know your tips and ideas so others can get inspired in this fantastic hobby!

Thanks for reading and Happy Hobbying!


Please remember these are our opinions on what has worked for us and we are not responsible for anyone's projects that have been damaged or unsuccessful using these ideas.

Welcome To Model Railroading - Part 2

Welcome Back to Part two of our beginner series in Model Railroading. This post is all about the basics of building kits, the different track types, DCC, types of trains, what the numbers on a steam locomotive mean and painting terms.

If you have any questions or comments please email us or leave them below.

Plastic Model Building Kits:

Three Types:

1.      Pre-Built Plastics [model buildings].

2.      Build your self plastics

3.      Build your self-Wood.

Scenery Materials: Various:  Main one is Woodland Scenics,  Trost’s own, Bachmann, Heki. These are just a few of the brand names. Almost all scenery lines are geared to function with most or all scales.

People, Vehicles, Railroad parts i.e. crossing signs, lights, etc.

Woodland scenics, Model Power, Miniatures By Eric, Excel, Hobits, Micro Engineering, Trost’s Own, Herpa, Athearn, Wiking, McHenry, Kadee to name a few.

Track:  HO and N scales: Peco; Atlas; EZ Bachmann – O scale; Atlas O, RealTraxx

There is quite a lot for variety in most scales.

Different Types of Model Railroad Track

A question that always comes up first is – What type of model train track should I use? There are several different brands and sizes available. Mostly what you use is personal preference. One thing to remember is that the size of the rails is reported as the code. For example code 83-model railroad track has larger rails than code 55 tracks.

The difference between Atlas HO Code 83 and Code 100 track: Literally, the code of a piece of track is the height of the rail in thousandths of an inch (meaning code 83 rail is .083" high; code 100 rail is .100" high). The significant difference lies in the physical appearance of the two types of track. Atlas Code 83 track has fine, brown ties whereas Code 100 has slightly thicker black ties. Because of its accuracy (and the color of the ties), Code 83 is more prototypical, and therefore more realistic than Code 100. Code 83 is known as a finer-scale track, and is the choice of discerning modelers. Atlas carries a full line of both Code 100 and Code 83 products. (There are fewer problems with code 100 & its more economical for the new Model Railroader)

The smaller rails are often used for branch lines and the larger codes are for mainlines. This is often the way they appear in the prototype (real life), so you can simulate that on your layout if you wish. A caveat to this is that you have to make sure that when you make the transition between different codes on the same layout, you have to line up the rails properly so there won’t be any derailments.

Model railroad track is sold as sectional track, i.e., small sections of either straight track or curved track that come in 2-3 different standard radii, or as flextrack, a very flexible 3 ft piece of track that can be curved to whatever radius you want. Sectional track, but not flextrack, can also be purchased with or without roadbed attached.

Digital command control (DCC) is a newer form of model railroad wiring and train control in which each locomotive can be separately controlled from one power unit or from one walk around throttle.

Each locomotive has to be fitted with a special decoder device programmed to accept signals from the power (or control) unit when that particular decoder is “dialed in” from the control unit.  For more info on this, come in and see us.

Accessories

The lighting for structures, signals, street lamps, etc. is usually accomplished with AC current which may or may not require a separate transformer from the one you use to control trains, depending on your specific power unit.  Most transformers have an AC and DC portal (screws) on the back or side. There are too many brands to name although a few are Woodland Scenics, Minitronics, Techtronics, Rail King, etc.

Types of model trains

Steam: A steam locomotive is a locomotive powered by a steam system of tubes. The term usually refers to its use on railways, but can also refer to a "road locomotive" such as a traction engine or steamroller.  Model steam engines are all electric although any scales HO and larger have the option of adding smoke fluid or pellet for the real effect.

Diesel: A Diesel train is a type of railroad locomotive, which is powered by a Diesel engine. Several types have been developed, the distinction being  how the Diesel mechanical power is conveyed to the driving wheels (drivers).

Electric: An electric locomotive is a locomotive powered by electricity from an external source. Sources include overhead lines or third rail.

Categories of model trains by service   

Passenger: A passenger train is one, which includes passenger-carrying vehicles. It may be a self-powered multiple unit or several rail cars together, or else a combination of one or more locomotives and one or more unpowered trailers known as coaches, cars or carriages. Passenger trains travel between stations or depots, at which passengers may board and disembark. In most cases, passenger trains operate on a fixed schedule and have superior track occupancy rights over freight trains.

Streamliner: A streamliner is any vehicle that incorporates streamlining to produce a more stylish shape that provides less resistance to air. The term is most often applied to certain high-speed railway trains of the 1930s to 1950s, and to their successor "bullet trains"    

                                                                                                                 

Freight: A freight train is a group of freight cars hauled by one or more locomotives on a railway, ultimately transporting cargo between two points as part of the logistics chain. Trains may haul bulk material, inter-modal containers, general freight or specialized freight in purpose-designed cars.

Types of model railroad cars 

Hoppers, Covered Hoppers; Gondolas; Tank cars; Refrigerator cars; Boxcars; Automobile transporters; Inter-modal transporters; Flatcars; Livestock cars & Cabooses.

What do the numbers mean?

These numbers are used for the classification of steam locomotives. For example- 0-4-0, 4-4-0, 2-8-2, 4-6-6-4, etc.

-The 1st number is the number of leading wheels. These wheels support the front of the boiler and guide the locomotive along the track.
-The 2nd (or middle) number is the number of drivers. These wheels are connected together and to the cylinders with rods to transfer the power from the steam to the rails. They also support the bulk of the locomotive.
-The last number is the number of axles in the trailing truck. These wheels support the cab and firebox, where the fuel is burned.
-On Diesel locomotives 4 wheel (2 axle) are called B trucks, 6 wheel (3 axle) are C trucks.

About Paints & Terms

In store we carry two types of paints, Acrylics and Enamels.

                                            

Acrylics: Acrylic paint is fast-drying paint containing pigment suspended in an acrylic polymer emulsion. Acrylic paints can be diluted with water, but become water-resistant when dry. Acrylic artist paints may be thinned with water and used as washes

Enamels: Enamel paints are oil based paints. These paints require a longer drying time and they are water and soap resistant

Wash: A wash is a painting technique in which a paint brush that is very wet with solvent and holds a small paint load is applied to a wet or dry support

Drybrush: Drybrush is a painting technique in which a paint brush that is relatively dry, but still holds paint, is used. The resulting brush strokes have a characteristic scratchy look that lacks the smooth appearance that washes or blended paint commonly has.

Tools: These are very important, as with any tools, its best to have the correct one for the job you need to accomplish. Your most important tools will be: Track cutters, wire cutter/strippers, hobby knife and replacement blades, light gear oil, needle nosed pliers, track cleaning eraser, extra wire in at least three different colours, hot glue gun, stiff bristle paint brush, set of jewelers screwdrivers, fine to extra fine sandpaper, patience and a sense of humor.

Chinook & Hobby West would love to help you make the most of your Model Railroading experience.  Come and visit us at 5011 MacLeod Tr. SW. Calgary, AB. 

Email hobbywest@shaw.ca. We are open 10-6 pm weekdays, 10-6 Saturdays, closed Sundays and Holidays. 

Chinook & Hobby West carries N, HO and O scale trains in store.  Any other scales that come in collections, we put on our ebay site.  Our eBay handle is gossamer13


Next week: Throttle up Thursday begins! Once a month we'll be featuring a model train enthusiast. 

Chinook & Hobby West
"Where the Fun Begins!"
ph: 403-243-1997
email: hobbywest@shaw.ca
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ChinookAndHobbyWest
Twitter: @HobbyAndToy
Pinterest:https://www.pinterest.com/hobbymum

More Rocketry Tips for Beginners

If you're thinking about the Rocket hobby, just getting into it, or need a refresher these tips will be a great help. If you're in the Calgary area you can join the Calgary Rocket Association. Click Here for their website.

Please keep in mind:  
Model rockets are not toys - you can't simply plug them in and turn them on expecting them to work. They can be dangerous if not handled properly and taken seriously. They are miniature real rockets and a number of things need to work perfectly and come together at the right time to ensure a proper launch. 
Note unless otherwise stated references are to Quest or Estes model rockets (as opposed to Advanced, High Power or Amateur rockets and these tips are only our opinion through experience and research). 

Your Rocket

Don't use double sided tape or self-adhesive tape to attach shroud lines to the canopy or streamer. These can clog the body tube and will eventually lose their stickiness. Instead use paper reinforcing rings. Glue them on your recovery device, puncture though the centre hole, thread the shroud lines through the hole and tie onto the canopy with a double knot. Pull the lines firmly to make sure they won't come off when the recovery device deploys.

Using a permanent marker, write contact details on your rocket to increase your chances of getting the rocket back should you lose it. 

Make sure the launch lug is strictly parallel to the body tube and there are no stickers/decals or other things that can catch or jam; in front of or behind the lug. Note a poorly aligned body tube glued to the fin unit can also cause a jam on the launch rod).

If the launch lug is molded to the plastic fin canister, make sure any 'flashing' is removed from the inside of it.
The nose cone must be an easy but snug fit into the body tube, if it’s too loose the cone may release when the rocket slows down. Use masking tape around the nose cone if it’s too loose. Hold the cone tightly in one hand and pull on the shock with the other, to ensure your knot won't fail when the recovery device deploys.

Make sure when gluing the engine mount together that excess glue doesn’t end up inside the engine mount. This will block the fitting of the motor. Wipe away any excess glue immediately. And don't forget to glue the engine mount in - yes it does happen! 

You must use wadding and it must be flameproof. Toilet paper, paper towel and tin foil will not work and will cause your rocket to burn up, explode or melt.

The Engine

Make sure the engine is the recommended letter/number combo for your model –the letter is the engine strength, the first number is how many seconds of thrust and the last number is the seconds until the shoot deploys. Check your instructions to get the recommended engine per your kit's instructions. Using the wrong engine delay will cause you a lot of grief! The engine must be a slip fit and slide easily into the engine mount. Never force the engine into the mount. Get used to checking the engine nozzle (the hole where the igniter is inserted). It will either be clay (white) or ceramic (black) - a black ceramic type nozzle signifies a European manufactured engine and will warn you that the delay time (coasting time) may be significantly longer than expected - a 3 second delay can be more like 5 seconds, a 4 second delay can be more like 6 seconds, and a 5 second delay more like 7 seconds. Adjust the angle on your launch rod upright accordingly. Taking a long walk is better than a destroyed rocket!

The Igniter

There are two types of igniter - the copperhead and the nichrome igniter. The first looks like one piece of copper with a black tip (the squib), and the second has two silver or copper wires. The nichrome igniter has less resistance than the copperhead and requires less current to fire, however it is brittle and fragile and so it is best to use masking tape across the nozzle. The squib must be touching the propellant - (the black stuff you can see inside the nozzle). Using a plug can cause the wires to come together causing a short. And that's also why you don't remove the paper tape on the nichrome igniter which keeps those wires apart! While the copperhead igniter is 'bulletproof' it requires more current to fire, so your batteries must be new and of the right voltage. 

The Launch Controller

The battery (s) you use in your launch controller are often the sole factor of whether or not you have a successful launch. You must use the proper battery(s) and they must be new batteries. Lithium and alkaline batteries, which together have a voltage rating of at least 6v-9v, are the only batteries suitable for model rocket launch controllers. Lithium batteries are the best, rechargeable batteries can give you a lot of grief, so don't use them.

Insulating one jaw of each alligator clip (with masking tape) is recommended. 'Flip' each alligator clip when attaching to the igniter so that one uninsulated jaw is touching one side of the igniter and the other uninsulated jaw touches the other side. Lightly sand your safety key and always keep it clean.

The Launch Pad

Pin down your launch pad with tent pegs, especially on a windy day. Also, make sure the launch rod is a tight fit in its mounting hole where it fits into the base of the launcher. If using a two piece rod, the two pieces must be a tight fit into each other and have no kinks. You don't want your rocket taking the launch rod with it, when it lifts off! Sand the rod lightly before launch and coat it with a thin layer of petroleum jelly (Vaseline). Always use the 'stand off'' which ensures igniter clips do not touch the jet deflector plate and cause a 'short'. If you lose the 'stand off'' use a burnt out engine instead. Test fit your rocket on the rod to ensure it slides freely - very important Make sure the rod safety cap is replaced on the rod after each launch.

Upgrade Tip your two piece rod can be replaced by one piece rod, .9 m to 1 m long, 3 mm in diameter. Stainless steel rod is best, however piano wire from a hobby shop will do the job.

Ready to Launch

The launch circuitry can be tested by installing the igniter, battery, and safety key (not on all launch systems), and momentarily pressing the launch button. The igniter should glow red hot. Release the launch button immediately as the igniter begins to glow, otherwise it will soon melt and have to be discarded.
When the rocket is seated on the igniter make sure it’s fully inserted and centered in the nozzle of the rocket engine. Just remove the launch rod, seat the rocket correctly on the igniter and then carefully re-instal the launch rod. Note due to the differing weight and aerodynamic shape of each of the rocket, not all models will achieve the expected altitudes and some may surpass it. Rockets with AT, A and B letters in the engines are great for beginners and first  launches, larger engine sizes such a C and D should be only used by intermediate to expert and a license/permit is required for any engines larger than E.

Looking for more help and great tips? Check out our other Rocketry posts!

4 Tips to Flying Model Rockets- use/copy the engine chart 

Rocketry Tips- Recovery Wadding, Why Do I Need It? - 

Next week: Car model tips!

Chinook & Hobby West

"Where the Fun Begins!"

ph: 403-243-1997

email: hobbywest@shaw.ca

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ChinookAndHobbyWest

Twitter: @HobbyAndToy

Pinterest:https://www.pinterest.com/hobbymum

Welcome to Model Railroading - Part 1

Welcome to Model Railroading - 

Model railroading is a fascinating hobby and has been dubbed by many as the “World’s Greatest Hobby”.   It is very versatile and incorporates many learning opportunities and is so fun for all ages. It includes creativity with sculpturing, painting, airbrushing, decorating and landscaping, and encourages scientific exploration of electronics, physics, mechanics, engineering and architecture, all combined with humor, friendship, family activities, social interaction, and the great sense of accomplishment.

Things to consider before starting:

• Space – plan out how big your layout can be, within the room you have available. Keep in mind that you need to get to all points that has track. So you may want to consider a U shape or a hole in the middle that you can get to any track should you need to.
• Scale- this goes with the Space point. If you have outdoor space, you may want to model in G or O, in a small to large room HO, or for a really small space N. There are other scales too.
• Budget- plan to spend on the materials for the table, base, roadbed and track first. Then some model train pieces, buildings and landscaping. This will also prevent you from getting overwhelmed with too much to do.
• Tips- if you are interested in using long flat bed cars, passenger cars or other long cars you need to make allowance for large radius curves or they will derail. Come and visit us for great beginner guidebooks and guidance in planning.

Model trains come in various scales (gauges):

Ø  Z 1:220 (with all the letters identifying gauges Z became the smallest so they used the last letter in the alphabet)

Ø  N  (rails are Nine mm apart- hence the N) 1:160 **

Ø  HO  (Half O or ‘aitch oh’) 1:87  **

Ø  OO  - 1:76 runs on HO track and is the British version of HO

Ø  S   scale 1:64

Ø  O   (was referred as zero (or 0h) gauge) 1:48**

Ø  G (Garden) 1:20.3 to 1:32

Ø  There are many more gauges, although they are important to die-hard railroaders, we will not be listing them here.  You can ask Rob, or Robby about those.

Gauge refers to the width of the track, measured between the railheads.  Different from scale, which is proportion to life-size.

At present, Chinook & Hobby West carries three Scales of Model Trains for Sale:  

**O scale, HO Scale, and N scale.   Any other scales that come in collections, we put on our ebay site.  Our eBay handle is gossamer13


Next week: Learn about different track, buildings, painting and more!

Chinook & Hobby West
"Where the Fun Begins!"
ph: 403-243-1997
email: hobbywest@shaw.ca
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ChinookAndHobbyWest
Twitter: @HobbyAndToy
Pinterest:https://www.pinterest.com/hobbymum

Creating Display Dioramas & Accessories For Your Action Figures

We regularly ask for tips, article ideas and general info from guys and gals just like you!  Recently, we were send this article. For the full article scroll to the bottom and hit the link.

This is just an opinion post about what you may try to do yourself. We are not responsible for any loss, injury, theft, etc. regarding any of the tips in this post.

Making an Oil Drum

• Take a 14 ounce can and remove the top and label. 
• Use one of the new Euro-Openers that cut from the side for best results. Eat contents and clean can. Dry well. Using a hot glue gun, glue the top back on. 
• Hot glue a 1/4" hex nut to the top near the edge and fill in the hole with glue. 
• Spray the can one of 3 colors: sage green, battleship gray or mint green. 
•  Label drums with rub on letters purchased from your local hobby shop.
• Display!

Making Walls

Here's on way on how to make a stone wall:

1. Items required: gravel, silicone RTV sealer (or caulking, or something similar), piece of wood as long as, and slightly wider than the section of wall you wish to build.
2. Glue the pieces of gravel to the wood using the silicone. Mix and match (like a puzzle) the gravel to give straight lines on the sides and eventually the top. The wall will get heavy enough to cause distortions if you try to do it all at once. Do about an inch or two high along the entire length of the wall and then let the silicone cure. Continue to add an inch or two in height every day until the wall is high enough. 
3. If you need a really thick stone wall, use a piece of Styrofoam and glue the gravel to the sides and top of the Styrofoam. The wall will still get heavy but the Styrofoam will help a bit!
4. If you fit the gravel together tightly, you can make a replica of a mortar-less stone wall. If you prefer to make a replica of a wall with mortar between the rocks, make the wall as noted above and let the silicone cure. After the silicone cures, run a bead of Elmer's or another hobby glue along the joints between the gravel and then sprinkle fine sand over the glue. After that dries brush off the excess sand. You can get fine sand in different colors from a hobby store that carries supplies for sand art.
5. Build the wall up to the end edges of the wood. This will allow you to make several sections of wall that will be smaller, easily stored and allow configuration changes for dioramas, etc. If you need to make a 90 degree corner, you can either make the corner as part of one section of wall, or make the wood ends as wide as the wall instead of a bit wider.
6. To finish off the sections of wall, glue dirt, model railroad ground cover, etc to the wood at the base of the wall. Also glue in a few bits of straw to simulate taller growing grasses, etc. -- Rob S.

Making Barbed Wire

How to Make Barbed Wire: Items needed: 30 gauge wire (found in hobby stores, Wal-Mart, etc - used for flowers & stuff), twigs (about 1/2 inch diameter), piece of wood (about 1/2 inch thick, plywood OK), glue, locking pliers or forceps, wire cutters, drill & bits, saw, rag.

1. Determine how much distance you want between fence posts. Also determine how high you want the fence to be (about 6 inches for a regular fence, about 16 inches or higher if you want to build a POW stockade).
2. Cut your wood about 2" - 3" wide and 2" - 3" longer than you want the fence section to be.
3. Cut the twigs to length, adding about 1/2 inch (or the thickness of your wood).
4. Drill 1/2 inch holes in the wood where you want the fence posts to be.
5. Glue fence posts into holes in wood. Set aside to dry thoroughly.
6. Cut a piece of the wire two times the distance between the fence posts, plus an extra 12 inches. For a 12 inch length of fence the length will be 36 inches (12 inches times two plus 12 more inches). The extra 12 inches of wire will be used to wrap around the fence post and secure the wire to the post.
7. Place the two ends of the wire together and pull the wire tight to form a doubled piece of wire.
8. Using the vice grip pliers or forceps, grab each end of the doubled wire and twist the wire. Keep twisting the wire until it has about 1/8 inch or less between the places where the wire crosses over itself.
9. Place the rag over the doubled & twisted wire and firmly pinch the wire (I fold the rag several times to give me a thicker pad of protection). Starting at one end of the twisted wire, squeeze and pull the rag along the length of the twisted wire (similar to closing a "zip-lock" bag). Do this a couple of times. What we are doing is setting the twist into the wire so when we remove the pliers/forceps the wire won't untwist by itself. You MUST use a rag or something similar because the wire will cut through skin if you try this with unprotected fingers!!! Set the wire aside.
10. Repeat steps 6 through 9 until you have one strand of wire for every inch to inch-and-a-half of post height.
11. Cut a bunch of 2" lengths of wire. Keep cutting, you'll need a BUNCH of these!
12. Take the 2" pieces of wire and wrap them around the twisted wire sections. Start about 3 inches from one end and wrap them every inch. Make sure you wrap them tightly against the twisted wire, and wrap each one about 4 times around the twisted wire. These will be the "barb" part of your barbed wire fence. Don't worry about how long the ends are, just wrap the entire length of twisted wire. Do this for all pieces of twisted wire you made in steps 6 - 9.
13. Take your wire cutters and snip off the extra length on each end of the barbs. Real barbs are about 1/2 inch long. I make the barbs a bit longer than normal (scale-wise) because they look better (i.e. you can see them!). Play around with the final length of your barbs and make them as long as you think looks good.
14. Wrap the ends of each section of barbed wire around the fence posts and twist the wire back on itself to hold the wire onto the post. BE CAREFUL - the barbs are REAL! ;-) Snip off the extra wire. Do this on both sides of the fence section, starting about 1 inch from the wood and working up about an inch for every piece of wire.
15. The fence section is finished. I make mine about 12 inches long so I can move them around easily. You can make them any length and any height. A good way to finish off the wooden bottom is to glue dirt, flocking, etc to the wood to simulate dirt, grass, etc. Need something besides fences? Make the sections of barbed wire and then coil them up to simulate coiled barbed wire. Use small (about 1 inch tall) pieces of smaller twigs glued into a wider section of wood, string the barbed wire between them and create "tanglefoot." Let your imagination roam wild! Good luck & have fun! -- Rob S

To see the complete article CLICK HERE
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We hope you enjoyed this post!  Let us know what you think or share any tips or ideas in the comments below.

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thanks for reading this blog post and we look forward to your sharing with us.

Happy Hobbying!!

Valerie

An Interview with Model Train enthusiast: Robin Cain

An Interview with Model Train enthusiast: Robin Cain 

Robin: I saw your Facebook request for photos of hobbies people are working on.  I thought you would like to check these out.

 

Chinook: Fantastic! Did you customize/paint it yourself? Tell me about this piece and why it's so special. 

Robin: It's an SD45 I made about 3 years ago...yes I did everything to it.  Athearn BLUE box

Chinook:  Is there anything else you would like to share about this SD45? 

Robin:   (thumbs up) ATHEARN BLUE BOX DC POWERED pepped up a little bit... Jewel marker lights, air hoses, grab irons, fire cracker antenna, rotating yellow Beacon, installed handrails, roof hooks, extra decaling on steps & body, custom painted & numbered number boards, center air hoses, box behind cab near turbocharger cover, custom painted & decalled.... Here's more pictures

Got it at a YARD sale for a dollar, it was a SANTA FE originally. Started off as a dummy. Recently was upgraded to a powered unit.

Chinook:  Why did you choose this loco to customize or paint?

Robin:  I was a hobo in the late 70's and rode a lot of FRISCO trains. The FRISCO SD45's was one of the giant purring kittens I slept in sometimes at night in different yards...lots of engineer's & trainmen knew me...I had a blast...miss it

Chinook:  a hobo? Where you checking out North America or just the US or just Canada?

Robin:  USA, NORTH AMERICA

Chinook:   Was it undecorated when you started? or did you strip it and repaint it? or did you do weathering and adding some things to a pre-painted loco?

Robin:  .it was a freight paint job for SANTA FE, only washed it with warm water & blue dawn, I primed it grey, painted it white, taped over white areas & put the orange to it with a badger spray unit, I altered the orange & added red, gloss colors of course.

Chinook:  How many build hours did it take you to do the work you did on it?

Robin:          13 hours to do units spread out over a month...I paint a tremendous amount of trains

Chinook:    How long have you been a model railroader and how long have you been painting/customizing your own pieces?

Robin:   I am 57, I have been a model railroader for 53 years...I been painting my own pieces since I was 10. I model the SEABOARD COAST LINE RAILROAD between AUGUSTA, GEORGIA & GREENWOOD, SOUTH CAROLINA. Just finished these BRIDGES built out of yard sticks & paint sticks

Chinook:    Do you have a designated hobby area?

Robin:  Oh yes! My layout! And my creator’s table.

Chinook:   What is your next project?

Robin:  My next project is to paint 10 SD45's.  6 BLACK...SCL 3 ROCK ISLAND BLUE 1 ROCK ISLAND RED

Chinook:   What city and state/province do you live in? Are you married? Do you share your hobby with your kids/grandkids?

Robin:  ONEONTA, ALABAMA.  My kids thinks I'm crazy because I tell them stories about people I've met honking and who I've played drums for.  I have a kids ministry. I give train's away to kids year round.  I am a train vendor, non-profit status.

I'm a little different than most people...LOL...child of the 60's & 70"s

Chinook:  Thanks so much for taking some time out of your busy day and answering these questions.

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Val, Chinook & Hobby West

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