Please keep in mind:
Model rockets are not toys - you can't simply plug them in and turn them on expecting them to work. They can be dangerous if not handled properly and taken seriously. They are miniature real rockets and a number of things need to work perfectly and come together at the right time to ensure a proper launch.
Note unless otherwise stated references are to Quest or Estes model rockets (as opposed to Advanced, High Power or Amateur rockets and these tips are only our opinion through experience and research).
Your Rocket
Don't use double sided tape or self-adhesive tape to attach
shroud lines to the canopy or streamer. These can clog the body tube and will
eventually lose their stickiness. Instead use paper reinforcing rings. Glue
them on your recovery device, puncture though the centre hole, thread the
shroud lines through the hole and tie onto the canopy with a double knot. Pull
the lines firmly to make sure they won't come off when the recovery device
deploys.
Using a permanent marker, write contact details on your rocket
to increase your chances of getting the rocket back should you lose it.
Make sure the launch lug is strictly parallel to the body tube and there are no stickers/decals or other things that can catch or jam; in front of or behind the lug. Note a poorly aligned body tube glued to the fin unit can also cause a jam on the launch rod).
If the launch lug is molded to the plastic fin canister,
make sure any 'flashing' is removed from the inside of it.
The nose cone must be an easy but snug fit into the body tube, if it’s too loose the cone may release when the rocket slows down. Use masking tape around the nose cone if it’s too loose. Hold the cone tightly in one hand and pull on the shock with the other, to ensure your knot won't fail when the recovery device deploys.
The nose cone must be an easy but snug fit into the body tube, if it’s too loose the cone may release when the rocket slows down. Use masking tape around the nose cone if it’s too loose. Hold the cone tightly in one hand and pull on the shock with the other, to ensure your knot won't fail when the recovery device deploys.
Make sure when gluing the engine mount together that excess
glue doesn’t end up inside the
engine mount. This will block the fitting of the motor. Wipe away any excess
glue immediately. And don't forget to glue the engine mount in - yes it does
happen!
You must use wadding and it must be flameproof. Toilet
paper, paper towel and tin foil will not work and will cause your rocket to
burn up, explode or melt.
The Engine
Make sure the engine is the recommended letter/number combo
for your model –the letter is the engine strength, the first number is how many
seconds of thrust and the last number is the seconds until the shoot deploys. Check
your instructions to get the recommended engine per your kit's instructions.
Using the wrong engine delay will cause you a lot of grief! The engine must be
a slip fit and slide easily into the engine mount. Never force the engine into
the mount. Get used to checking the engine nozzle (the hole where the igniter
is inserted). It will either be clay (white) or ceramic (black) - a black
ceramic type nozzle signifies a European manufactured engine and will warn you
that the delay time (coasting time) may be significantly longer than expected -
a 3 second delay can be more like 5 seconds, a 4 second delay can be more like
6 seconds, and a 5 second delay more like 7 seconds. Adjust the angle on your
launch rod upright accordingly. Taking a long walk is better than a destroyed
rocket!
There are two types of igniter - the copperhead and the
nichrome igniter. The first looks like one piece of copper with a black tip
(the squib), and the second has two silver or copper wires. The nichrome
igniter has less resistance than the copperhead and requires less current to
fire, however it is brittle and fragile and so it is best to use masking tape
across the nozzle. The squib must be touching the propellant - (the black stuff
you can see inside the nozzle). Using a plug can cause the wires to come
together causing a short. And that's also why you don't remove the paper tape
on the nichrome igniter which keeps those wires apart! While the copperhead
igniter is 'bulletproof' it requires more current to fire, so your batteries
must be new and of the right voltage.
The battery (s) you use in your launch controller are often
the sole factor of whether or not you have a successful launch. You must use
the proper battery(s) and they must be new batteries. Lithium and alkaline
batteries, which together have a voltage rating of at least 6v-9v, are the only
batteries suitable for model rocket launch controllers. Lithium batteries are
the best, rechargeable batteries can give you a lot of grief, so don't use
them.
Insulating one jaw of each alligator clip (with masking tape)
is recommended. 'Flip' each alligator clip when attaching to the igniter so
that one uninsulated jaw is touching one side of the igniter
and the other uninsulated jaw touches the other side. Lightly sand
your safety key and always keep it clean.
Pin down your launch pad with tent pegs, especially on a
windy day. Also, make sure the launch rod is a tight fit in its mounting hole
where it fits into the base of the launcher. If using a two piece rod, the two
pieces must be a tight fit into each other and have no kinks. You don't want
your rocket taking the launch rod with it, when it lifts off! Sand the rod
lightly before launch and coat it with a thin layer of
petroleum jelly (Vaseline). Always use the 'stand off'' which ensures igniter
clips do not touch the jet deflector plate and cause a 'short'. If you lose the
'stand off'' use a burnt out engine instead. Test fit your rocket on the rod to
ensure it slides freely - very important Make sure the rod
safety cap is replaced on the rod after each launch.
Upgrade Tip your
two piece rod can be replaced by one piece rod, .9 m to 1 m long, 3 mm in
diameter. Stainless steel rod is best, however piano wire from a hobby shop
will do the job.
Ready to Launch
The launch circuitry can be tested by installing the
igniter, battery, and safety key (not on all launch systems), and momentarily
pressing the launch button. The igniter should glow red hot. Release the launch
button immediately as the igniter begins to glow, otherwise it will soon melt
and have to be discarded.
When the rocket is seated on the igniter make sure it’s fully inserted and centered in the nozzle of the rocket engine. Just remove the launch rod, seat the rocket correctly on the igniter and then carefully re-instal the launch rod. Note due to the differing weight and aerodynamic shape of each of the rocket, not all models will achieve the expected altitudes and some may surpass it. Rockets with AT, A and B letters in the engines are great for beginners and first launches, larger engine sizes such a C and D should be only used by intermediate to expert and a license/permit is required for any engines larger than E.
When the rocket is seated on the igniter make sure it’s fully inserted and centered in the nozzle of the rocket engine. Just remove the launch rod, seat the rocket correctly on the igniter and then carefully re-instal the launch rod. Note due to the differing weight and aerodynamic shape of each of the rocket, not all models will achieve the expected altitudes and some may surpass it. Rockets with AT, A and B letters in the engines are great for beginners and first launches, larger engine sizes such a C and D should be only used by intermediate to expert and a license/permit is required for any engines larger than E.
Looking for more help and great tips? Check out our other Rocketry posts!
4 Tips to Flying Model Rockets- use/copy the engine chart
Rocketry Tips- Recovery Wadding, Why Do I Need It? -
Next week: Car model tips!
Chinook & Hobby West
"Where the Fun Begins!"
ph: 403-243-1997
email: hobbywest@shaw.ca
Twitter: @HobbyAndToy
Pinterest:https://www.pinterest.com/hobbymum
