Create a Great Paint Job From Spray Cans

Have you every tried to use spray cans to paint your model only to have dripping runs or that 'orange peel' look? We've pooled together our collective knowledge to share some of our favourite tips and ideas.

There are many modelers think spray cans are amateurish and not very precise, and that the only way to build a show quality model is to use an airbrush. That's so untrue! There are a lot of good reasons to use aerosol spray paint.

Currently, there are so many excellent aerosol paints available for model builders, they all have their great qualities. Testors is the front runner with an excellent selection of both stock and custom colors in enamels, and Tamiya's lacquers have fantastic pigments. Some others (not all available at your local hobby shop) add to the huge array of commercially available paints such as Krylon, Dupli-Color, Plasti-kote, and there are more. It may sound odd, but I rarely use an airbrush!

Each of these lines are available in gloss, semigloss, and flat varieties, and can be used to vary the surfaces of flat, semigloss, and metallic paints, adding even more variety to the mix. You can use these differences to your advantage to add more visual interest to your model. 

The first thing anyone is going to notice about your model is the paint job, so read on to learn how to paint, prepare and finish that model on your hobby table.

1. Select the colours for your model kit. Also, check out your local hobby shop or bookstore for awesome reference and idea books. (Remember that for military kits flat colour are best, but if you need to use semi-gloss or gloss for the colour you like to can use a flat finish at the end to make it all uniform flat)

2. On any kit your going to need to remove the molding seams and flashing left by the molding process. These can be hard to spot on some kits, a credit to the manufacturer's attention to detail. Be certain to look closely to find the seams. Sand the large body pieces a bit with 400-grit sandpaper and they'll be easier to spot. Make sure you remove all of the molding seams, or they'll show up through your carefully applied finish!

3. After sanding see if there are any spots that may need to be filled. There are many types of hobby putty to help you with this. 

4. Next priming - yes, this is a pain but is so worth it. This will show any imperfections you may have missed so you can sand them out. One coat is usually all you need. Make sure to hold the spray can approximately 4 to 6 inches away from your project (using light feathering motions) to get an even coat.

5. Painting Tip- you can spray  directly on the piece or create a parts holder. There are many modeling YouTube videos that can help you with this.  I usually wear a latex glove and hold the larger pieces from the inside. For small pieces I spray them directly on the sprue frames and then touch them up by hand after I cut them off. 

6.  Ready to paint? The first tip I learned as a kid and I still use today is warming up the paint so it will flow better. This is very important with thick enamel paints. Cold paint has a tendency to develop an "orange peel" texture. To warm up the paint, fill a bowl (or the bottom of a sink) with about three inches of hot water. Stand the spray can in the hot water for a few minutes before you start painting. (do not put it on a stove or in the microwave, this will explode the can; just use hot tap water)

7. After drying off the can, shake the can vigorously for a couple of minutes, apply the first mist coat of paint to the model (you'll know it's mixing as you hear the metal marble inside rattling around. If you don't hear this sound, test the paint to see if it sprays as it may be really thick or a dried out can). Do a light dusting of paint and it shouldn't cover the entire surface. Repeat this at lease 6 times. These mist coats may seem like a nuisance to apply, but they're laying the foundation for optimum coverage once the wet coats are applied. Wait approximately 20 minutes between mist coats to allow the paint to set. This gives a great look for flat finishes.

8. Only for Gloss Coats -  The next coats should be heavier, "wet" coats, in which the paint glosses up during application. The trick to applying a wet coat is simple: Apply just enough paint so that the coating is wet and glossy, but not so much that it runs or drips. Mastering the art of the wet coat takes practice, but eventually becomes very natural. Take your time with this and practice on the inside of your model kit box.

9. EXTRA TIP - If you are wanting a show quality paint job polishing may be for you. If your paint job seems a bit uneven you can polish the finish with a 3,200-grit pad (the workhorse of the bunch), it will level the surface of the paint. Please use the pad dry because it's easier to determine when the texture has been removed. Work slowly when using this coarse grit, as it can easily cut through the paint and into the primer. Note it will give the model a dull finish, a sign that all of the surface texture has been removed.  Then you can wet-sand with a 12,000-grit pad, creating a nice luster to the paint's surface. 

10. If you don't wish to go through all the sanding polish can be applied by dabbing a small amount on a piece of flannel cloth and rubbing it into the surface of the paint using circular strokes. Afterward, the excess polish should be buffed off with a clean portion of the flannel cloth. 

11. To finish, I like using a clear coat spray. The finish depends on your project and if you want a flat, semi-gloss, gloss or high gloss look.  If you choose to apply clear gloss over a  color finish, be careful when you apply it. You have two choices: you can add the clear coat immediately after applying the last wet color coat, or you can apply the clear coat after the color coat has cured for at least a week or two. Some brands of clear gloss paint cure at a different rates than the color paints in the line. If you wait even a day to apply the clear gloss, the different curing rates may cause the clear finish to crack. 

So there you have it.  What did you think?  Please leave a comment to let us know your tips and ideas so others can get inspired in this fantastic hobby!

Thanks for reading and Happy Hobbying!


Please remember these are our opinions on what has worked for us and we are not responsible for anyone's projects that have been damaged or unsuccessful using these ideas.

Maintaining Action Figures Clothing

Most of these tips are for cloth figure clothing.  These tips are by our opinion and we are not responsible for damages when trying these tips.

Steaming

Invest in a travel steamer or an iron with a steam function.  Get the type that looks like an upright canister with a side handle and a venting attachment at the top. Using this little miracle tool you can make uniforms look really sharp. It also will steam clean surface dust and help to upgrade the look of a cloth uniform. Regular ironing will scorch the fabric and leave shiny marks.  Work carefully and pull the cloth taut as you go. Hold the surface to be done between both hands and run it over the vents to "steam press" the garment. Holding it a little tightly helps. It takes a little practice and you'll probably get a couple of steamed fingers the first time out. Just work carefully and take your time.

Starching

Capes, berets and some other looser clothing needs some help keeping its shape. Try spraying it with diluted (1:1) starch, carefully forming the beret while on the figures head and letting it air dry. The item isn't rock-hard or anything it just stays where you put it now.

A way to form cloth berets, without a great deal of effort, to look like the way most soldiers wear them today. You'll need a bottle of Paul Mitchell Fast Drying Sculpting Spray or something similar.

1. Put the Beret on your figure and form it how you like.
2. Spray carefully and saturate the beret. Try to limit the spray just to the beret material.
3. Use a tooth pick or bamboo skewer to hold the beret in the shape you desire (you could stuff the item or make a form for it) to keep your fingers from sticking to the item as it dries.

Once dried, it's not sticky and not noticeable. 

Dyeing

The following alternatives work well on all cotton cloth:

1. A good dye to use is a VAT dye which will turn the fabric black (or whatever color you want) & will never come out. This dye is a bit caustic to use but works quick and lasts forever.
2. For a dye that is less caustic,use a Procyonb dye (sometimes known as cold-dyes). These dyes require much more soaking but are still permanent.

If you're going dye natural leather, use the Fiebing's Oil based dyes. The Tandy dyes are alcohol based and tend to leech the natural oils out of the leather causing it to crack on you after a short time. The Fiebing's, being oil based, doesn't do this, and is actually a little more resilient and produces a finish that's easier to apply evenly.

Sewing

Many problems seen in action figure clothing is the fabric unravelling (usually behind a seam). To prevent this, you "overcast the seam" which means setting the sewing machine on zig zag and sewing the hidden edge of the fabric on the inside. 

Use one little stitch to hold the collars down so they don't curl up.

You can use 1.2 mm brass nails for realistically sized buttons. Stick them through the material, cut of the excess (most of the nail) and add a drop or two of fabric tac. 

Gluing

Having trouble glueing those little fabric insignia's to the fabric uniforms of your 12" figures?  Aleene's Original Tacky Glue comes in a gold-colored squeeze bottle with a white top. It dries clear, and more significantly, flexible. So the insignia's won't peel off the figure when you move them around.

When glueing fabric to plastic, if you use modeling cement (either tube or liquid type), it will dissolve or soften the plastic you're working with.  If you use this, make sure you apply it to the piece of plastic, and not the cloth! 

Superglues (cyanoacrylates) are probably the best thing there is for attaching buckles or straps onto a model permanently. It will set instantly if applied to anything natural like cotton or skin. If you're attaching straps or buckles, be sure to only apply a tiny dot exactly where the cloth attaches or it wil make the entire strap stiff. 

Washing

Here's how to get those garments white and bright again. You need to buy two things:

• Softscrub With Bleach (the lemon version won't work)
• Efferdent denture cleaning tablets

1. Use a tupperware container large enough to lay the uniform flat.
2. Wet the piece of clothing and put it in the container.
3. Shake the Softscrub then apply it all over the item using a soft paintbrush.
4. Wait about five minutes then add warm water to the container so that it covers the uniform by about and inch.
5. Squirt some more Softscrub down on it and let it soak about 20-30 minutes - no longer.
6. Now take out the garment and rinse well under warm water.
7. Rinse out your container WELL and put about an inch and 1/2 of warm (not hot) water in it.
8. Pop in two or three Efferdent tablets and place your garment flat in the container.
9. Leave it in there overnight - about eight hours.
   Don't worry if the garment gets looking blue; it will go away in a couple of hours in the bath. It's removing any of the chlorine from the bleach and the baking soda and the Efferdent will really brighten the whites. You want all the chlorine gone because it would eventually yellow the garment. That's why using straight bleach isn't a good idea unless you Efferdent afterwards.
10. Take out and rinse. If it still isn't white or bright enough-try the Efferdent bath again.
11. Then rinse it well. You can use a "salad spinner" to spin all the excess water out.
12. Dry flat.

To remove magic marker, try rubbing alcohol. Pour through the fabric from the back. This works well on some markers and pens.

Next week: Hmmm not sure.  Check back next Monday.

Chinook & Hobby West

"Where the Fun Begins!"

ph: 403-243-1997

email: hobbywest@shaw.ca

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ChinookAndHobbyWest

Twitter: @HobbyAndToy

Pinterest:https://www.pinterest.com/hobbymum

Top 10 Model Building Tips for Beginners

Here is our top 10 model tips for beginners. Feel free to add your tips to the comments below!
Always read the instructions of your kit and follow the steps in order.


10. Use a hobby knife or sprue cutter to remove pieces from sprues. This give you a clean piece with no extra flashing, don't twist them off as you can ruin the pieces.

9.  Using a fine detail brush try to paint as many pieces when they're still on the sprue frame. This gives you more control and you don't need to worry about how you'll hold the tiny pieces while painting them.

8.  when using glue, less is usually more.  Put a small dab on glue on a bottle cap and use a tooth pick to control where the glue goes. Always 'dry fit' the part first so you know how it will fit before gluing.

7.  Applying water slide decals can be tricky.  Soak the decal for about 15 seconds it may curl, but wait and let it uncurl.  To place the decal, hold it to where it goes and slide it off the paper and onto the model. If the decal needs repositioning, then wet your fingers with water and move the decal into position carefully. There may be some residue from the glue, use a wet q-tip to clean it off being careful not to wipe the decal away. Allow the decal to fully dry before handling.

6.  Many sprues and model parts have the mould release agent still on them.  Make sure to immerse them in a shallow pan of mild dish detergent and warm water to rinse the chemical off and then dry completely.  Using extra fine grit sandpaper on the larger pieces works well too. Use a light touch so you don't sand off fine details.

5.  Always have your hobby area set up with whatever you need  for that kit. your model, glue, rag, thinner, sprue cutter, paint, brushes, dish of water, etc. If you don't have a designated spot and need to move your items around, use a cleaning caddy or toolbox to keep your supplies together and easy to transport.

4.  Never mix acrylic paint and enamel paint.  If you need to use both on your model kit paint one first and let it dry for a minimum of 6 hours, then paint with the other.  If you don't let the different paint types dry you may get a blister look.

3. When spray painting always use light coats. If you spray on too thick it may run or create an orange peel look to your paint job.

2. Did you glue your fingers together?  Never pull them apart!  Roll them apart or use nail polish remover or debonder to break down the glue bond.  If you got glue on any sensitive areas such as around your eyes or mouth, please go see a doctor and get them to assist you safely.

1.  HAVE FUN! If you get frustrated put the lids on your paint, thinner and glue, wash your brushes and go do something else for a while.  I've seen many model kits thrown at walls and out windows!  

Next week: Maintaining Action Figures Clothing

Chinook & Hobby West
"Where the Fun Begins!"
ph: 403-243-1997
email: hobbywest@shaw.ca
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ChinookAndHobbyWest
Twitter: @HobbyAndToy
Pinterest:https://www.pinterest.com/hobbymum

More Rocketry Tips for Beginners

If you're thinking about the Rocket hobby, just getting into it, or need a refresher these tips will be a great help. If you're in the Calgary area you can join the Calgary Rocket Association. Click Here for their website.

Please keep in mind:  
Model rockets are not toys - you can't simply plug them in and turn them on expecting them to work. They can be dangerous if not handled properly and taken seriously. They are miniature real rockets and a number of things need to work perfectly and come together at the right time to ensure a proper launch. 
Note unless otherwise stated references are to Quest or Estes model rockets (as opposed to Advanced, High Power or Amateur rockets and these tips are only our opinion through experience and research). 

Your Rocket

Don't use double sided tape or self-adhesive tape to attach shroud lines to the canopy or streamer. These can clog the body tube and will eventually lose their stickiness. Instead use paper reinforcing rings. Glue them on your recovery device, puncture though the centre hole, thread the shroud lines through the hole and tie onto the canopy with a double knot. Pull the lines firmly to make sure they won't come off when the recovery device deploys.

Using a permanent marker, write contact details on your rocket to increase your chances of getting the rocket back should you lose it. 

Make sure the launch lug is strictly parallel to the body tube and there are no stickers/decals or other things that can catch or jam; in front of or behind the lug. Note a poorly aligned body tube glued to the fin unit can also cause a jam on the launch rod).

If the launch lug is molded to the plastic fin canister, make sure any 'flashing' is removed from the inside of it.
The nose cone must be an easy but snug fit into the body tube, if it’s too loose the cone may release when the rocket slows down. Use masking tape around the nose cone if it’s too loose. Hold the cone tightly in one hand and pull on the shock with the other, to ensure your knot won't fail when the recovery device deploys.

Make sure when gluing the engine mount together that excess glue doesn’t end up inside the engine mount. This will block the fitting of the motor. Wipe away any excess glue immediately. And don't forget to glue the engine mount in - yes it does happen! 

You must use wadding and it must be flameproof. Toilet paper, paper towel and tin foil will not work and will cause your rocket to burn up, explode or melt.

The Engine

Make sure the engine is the recommended letter/number combo for your model –the letter is the engine strength, the first number is how many seconds of thrust and the last number is the seconds until the shoot deploys. Check your instructions to get the recommended engine per your kit's instructions. Using the wrong engine delay will cause you a lot of grief! The engine must be a slip fit and slide easily into the engine mount. Never force the engine into the mount. Get used to checking the engine nozzle (the hole where the igniter is inserted). It will either be clay (white) or ceramic (black) - a black ceramic type nozzle signifies a European manufactured engine and will warn you that the delay time (coasting time) may be significantly longer than expected - a 3 second delay can be more like 5 seconds, a 4 second delay can be more like 6 seconds, and a 5 second delay more like 7 seconds. Adjust the angle on your launch rod upright accordingly. Taking a long walk is better than a destroyed rocket!

The Igniter

There are two types of igniter - the copperhead and the nichrome igniter. The first looks like one piece of copper with a black tip (the squib), and the second has two silver or copper wires. The nichrome igniter has less resistance than the copperhead and requires less current to fire, however it is brittle and fragile and so it is best to use masking tape across the nozzle. The squib must be touching the propellant - (the black stuff you can see inside the nozzle). Using a plug can cause the wires to come together causing a short. And that's also why you don't remove the paper tape on the nichrome igniter which keeps those wires apart! While the copperhead igniter is 'bulletproof' it requires more current to fire, so your batteries must be new and of the right voltage. 

The Launch Controller

The battery (s) you use in your launch controller are often the sole factor of whether or not you have a successful launch. You must use the proper battery(s) and they must be new batteries. Lithium and alkaline batteries, which together have a voltage rating of at least 6v-9v, are the only batteries suitable for model rocket launch controllers. Lithium batteries are the best, rechargeable batteries can give you a lot of grief, so don't use them.

Insulating one jaw of each alligator clip (with masking tape) is recommended. 'Flip' each alligator clip when attaching to the igniter so that one uninsulated jaw is touching one side of the igniter and the other uninsulated jaw touches the other side. Lightly sand your safety key and always keep it clean.

The Launch Pad

Pin down your launch pad with tent pegs, especially on a windy day. Also, make sure the launch rod is a tight fit in its mounting hole where it fits into the base of the launcher. If using a two piece rod, the two pieces must be a tight fit into each other and have no kinks. You don't want your rocket taking the launch rod with it, when it lifts off! Sand the rod lightly before launch and coat it with a thin layer of petroleum jelly (Vaseline). Always use the 'stand off'' which ensures igniter clips do not touch the jet deflector plate and cause a 'short'. If you lose the 'stand off'' use a burnt out engine instead. Test fit your rocket on the rod to ensure it slides freely - very important Make sure the rod safety cap is replaced on the rod after each launch.

Upgrade Tip your two piece rod can be replaced by one piece rod, .9 m to 1 m long, 3 mm in diameter. Stainless steel rod is best, however piano wire from a hobby shop will do the job.

Ready to Launch

The launch circuitry can be tested by installing the igniter, battery, and safety key (not on all launch systems), and momentarily pressing the launch button. The igniter should glow red hot. Release the launch button immediately as the igniter begins to glow, otherwise it will soon melt and have to be discarded.
When the rocket is seated on the igniter make sure it’s fully inserted and centered in the nozzle of the rocket engine. Just remove the launch rod, seat the rocket correctly on the igniter and then carefully re-instal the launch rod. Note due to the differing weight and aerodynamic shape of each of the rocket, not all models will achieve the expected altitudes and some may surpass it. Rockets with AT, A and B letters in the engines are great for beginners and first  launches, larger engine sizes such a C and D should be only used by intermediate to expert and a license/permit is required for any engines larger than E.

Looking for more help and great tips? Check out our other Rocketry posts!

4 Tips to Flying Model Rockets- use/copy the engine chart 

Rocketry Tips- Recovery Wadding, Why Do I Need It? - 

Next week: Car model tips!

Chinook & Hobby West

"Where the Fun Begins!"

ph: 403-243-1997

email: hobbywest@shaw.ca

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ChinookAndHobbyWest

Twitter: @HobbyAndToy

Pinterest:https://www.pinterest.com/hobbymum

10 Tips For Buying A Model Kit

Generally a model kit contains a scale model of an object or vehicle - automobile, aircraft, military vehicle, motor, building, replica figure, etc. (there are many to look at and choose from). Such kits include all the necessary pieces of the idea photo on the box (make sure to ask if you are unsure as some buildings show fences and trees, but these are sold separately or just a special part(s) of a larger model), which the hobbyist assembles and then personalizes with paints and decals (usually sold separately).
With model kits, there are two primary types of hobbyists: the builder and the collector. The builder fancies the challenge and the hands-on aspect. The collector, on the other hand, focuses on the possessing, and many collectors opt to display the kits untouched, in their original packaging.

Buying a Model Kit

For the new hobbyist, buying a model kit can be a daunting task simply due to the sheer amount of choice that’s available. Collectors have to choose a vehicle and the scale at which they want to work. Then, they have to factor in price, complexity, customization, tools and supplies, and so forth. If the desired model is no longer manufactured, then the hobbyist has to deal with a series of additional concerns, including appreciation. Choosing a kit is not simple, but even the new hobbyist can avoid the most common pitfalls by following these 10 tips:

1. Research Model Kit Types

The first step is awareness of the various types of kits that are available. The traditional model kit, often called Snap-Tite or Skill Level 1, is made of plastic and simply snaps together. Snap-Tite kits are very newbie-friendly and usually only require mild filing and light gluing to complete.  Experienced hobbyists will eventually graduate to Skill 2 requiring glue and paint and to any of the more advanced Skill 3-5 kits as well as die cast models and radio-controlled vehicles.

2. Choose a Vehicle Type

The next step is to choose the type or class of vehicle. The most popular model kit classes are classic, sports car, NASCAR, hot rod, truck, and service vehicles. Classic car models tend to focus on American muscle, but there are models available for the classics from all over the world. Skill 1 classics tend to be the most accessible kind of kits for the beginner. Hot rods are roadsters, typically open wheel, that have very distinctive aesthetics and engine mount configurations. Hot rods make great looking models, but they can be quite challenging in the building and customization stages. The most popular type of automotive model kit is the sports car model (Corvette, Austin Martin, Ferrari, etc), a class that focuses on street legal sports cars from all years and from all around the world. In the U.S., NASCAR models rival the sports car and classic car classes in overall popularity. The service vehicle class, which are intricate and challenging, includes vehicles like fire trucks, ambulances, snowplows, and so forth.
And just to add to the pile, don't forget Military vehicles, aircraft and ships.

3. Select an Interesting Subject

When choosing a particular model, collectors should opt for a subject that engages them. A Porsche 911 is very popular and a staple in most automotive model collections, but it can also be very boring due to that commonness. Rather than choosing a model based on what is already known, the collector should shop around until a model chooses them. Finding a model car that is aesthetically interesting, challenging to build but still suitable to the beginner, can be difficult, but such models are available.

4. Decide on Scale

The next step is to choose the scale of the model. The most common model size for a car is 1:25 (and manufacturers often use 1:24 rather than 1:25), which is approximately 6 to 7 inches long. In Europe, 1:18 is also very popular. The 1:18 kits are approximately 9 inches long. There are also 1:60 scale kits, which are approximately 3 inches long and are particularly well suited to the small hands of a young child. Small kits are also popular among collectors and builders who enjoy the miniaturization aspect, but tiny kits can require a great deal of patience and fine hand control.
We will discuss in a future blog about the different scales in military, ships and aircraft.

5. Evaluate the Complexity

After choosing the model and scale, consider the complexity of the kit. The first gauge of complexity is the number of pieces in the kit. A Skill 1 kit usually has less than 50 pieces. A Skill 2 kit can have up to 200 pieces. A Skill 3-5 kit can have 200-1500 or more pieces and include many fine parts.
Skill 1 kits are preferable for beginners, children, and adult builders who just want a relaxed experience. Most children can complete a Skill 1 kit with little supervision and only occasional help. Skill 2 or higher kits require additional skills, tools, and supplies. Be aware that choosing a complex model that the builder isn’t ready for can intimidate and overwhelm the builder and therefore loose interest in a very enjoyable hobby.

6. Consider Customization Options and Necessities

An often hidden aspect of model building is the optional, and sometimes necessary, customization and personalization of the model. Automotive model kits are often labeled 2-in-1, 3-in-1, and so on; what that means is that the build process has a branch that allows for multiple finishes. For instance, many classic car kits come in a 3-in-1 configuration, which means that the collector can build it as a stock car, custom car, or race car. Many hobbyists opt to build these kits in all variants and display them alongside each other. First-time builders, however, should consider a basic kit that has no variants for simplicity.

7. Consider the Needed Tools and Supplies

Another important consideration is tools and supplies. The beginner will require basic hobby tools, such as a hobby knife, tweezers, paint, a fine file, and modeling glue/cement. Skill 2 and higher kits, however, will require a range of hobby knives and files as well as putty, sanding paper, spur cutters and perhaps a rotary tool or other power tools. Diecast models require metalworking tools, and radio-controlled models require batteries, an electronic motor, controller, and so forth.

8. Opt for a New Automotive Model Kit

Manufacturers produce kits in runs, which are typically time-limited. Once a run ends, the kit then becomes vintage and begins to appreciate in value. Vintage model cars sell at many times their original sticker price. For the builder, the most common reason to buy vintage is to get a particular classic car, which tend to go in and out of production. Although this will limit the hobbyist’s options, the beginner should focus on new kits in order to work with modern materials and avoid the vintage premium. (many kits are done in a re-release at milestone marks such as the 10th, 25th or 50th year anniversary of that kit or the car/piece)

9. When Buying Vintage, Price It and Haggle for It

If the collector opts to purchase a vintage model, then they should price it first. Price guides will provide a general appraisal, and the Internet is a powerful resource to determine the actual going rate. When buying a vintage model, shop around; check online, local shops, garage sales and shows/conventions. Once found, don’t settle for the listed price, which is generally a best-case scenario for the vendor.
(Be realistic in your negotiations you don't want to insult the one selling the kit in case you want to buy from them again)

10. New Builders Should Have a Contingency Plan

New builders should have a contingency plan because first builds usually do not go according to plan. A benefit of buying a current kit is that the collector can easily purchase an additional kit from the store or replacement parts directly from the manufacturer. Some vendors sell open box kits, which may be missing parts but are a cost-effective way to have spare parts on hand.

Conclusion

Buying a model kit for the first time can be difficult due to the sheer amount of choice available. A hobbyist’s first step should be to educate himself or herself on the various options that are available: classes, models, scales, books and other sources. Next, the beginner should choose a subject that interests them, but also one that isn’t so complex that makes it difficult to learn. With the first build under one's belt, the builder will be able to graduate to one of the more intricate kits the next time, and go into dioramas - but that's another blog......

What did you think of this article?  Please email us or comment on this post and let us know your thoughts and questions.

partial source 

Building A Road

Would you like to include a road or sidewalk on your layout or diorama?  We have great kits for beginners to experts that give great finished looks.

We know we have a kit that's ideal for you!  Make sure to come down and see us for more info and techniques.

Our first kit is for Beginners or great for school projects:

 the Woodland Scenics Road Kit for building roads and sidewalks on our layouts and dioramas.  Its easy, fast, a good price and looks great when finished!

Woodland Scenics has also released a great video to demonstrate just how easy this kit is to use:
Click Here to view
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Our other kit is for Intermediate to expert:

Road System Learning Kit

LK952

Modelers learn to easily add roads and other paved areas to any layout. The kit contains illustrated instructions and enough of the following products to build a roadway approximately 3" x 4' (7.62 cm x 121 cm): Smooth-It™, Paving Tape™ and Spreader, Asphalt Top Coat™ and the Top Coat applicator.

Here is another great video to help you bring this Road System kit to life for you:
Click Here to view
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Are you looking to add more realism to your road?  Check these out!

Paving Tape™

ST1455

Use this adhesive-backed foam tape to create straight-edged forms for paving, even on curves. Use to model streets, roads, sidewalks and parking lots. Easy to apply and remove. Includes Spreader. Roll 1/4" w x 1/16" h x 30' l (6 mm x 1.5 mm x 9.14 m) makes a road approximately 15 feet long (4.57 m).

Top Coat™ Concrete

ST1454

Top Coat Concrete is a non-toxic, water-soluble compound used to simulate the color of concrete road surfaces. Brush-on application. 4 fl oz (118 mL)
One bottle will cover approximately 9 to 12 square feet.

Top Coat™ Asphalt

ST1453

Top Coat Asphalt is a non-toxic, water-soluble compound used to simulate the color of blacktop road surfaces. Brush-on application. 4 fl oz (118 mL)
One bottle will cover approximately 9 to 12 square feet.

Smooth-It™ (1 qt.)

ST1452

Smooth-It is a plaster material that is used to smooth rough spots, create streets, roads and parking lots. Mix with water and apply directly to any clean hard surface. Covers 26' by 3" by 1/4" (HO Scale - two-lane highway).

Road Striping Pen - Yellow

C1292

Easily stripe roads, parking lots, crosswalks and other paved areas. Road Striping Pens make precise and opaque, realistic markings and dries quickly. Works for scales N through O. Use with Flexi Edge™ to create accurately scaled stripes and lines. 1/pkg and includes extra tip.

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Road Stripe Remover

C1293

Use with Road Striping Pen - White and Road Striping Pen - Yellow to correct striping errors easily. Removes paint from Top Coat™ painted surfaces, leaving no residue. 1/pkg

The Scenery Manual

C1207

The most popular and comprehensive scenery manual available. Anyone can make beautiful, realistic scenery, and this manual will show you how. The spiral-bound Scenery Manual is loaded with various tips, techniques, ideas and instructions for using more than Woodland Scenics products to model realistic scenery. 170 pages contains hundreds of full-color photos and illustrations. Includes a 22 page addendum featuring the new terrain products.

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From the gang at Chinook & Hobby West
403-243-1997

Basic Airbrush Maintenance and Cleaning- Q & A

Many different experience levels come and visit us here at Chinook & Hobby West to talk about Airbrushing. We also get many questions regarding Airbrushes through our social medias and by email.

We carry Paasche, Iwata and Badger currently and yes, we do promote these items. We also have general information to help all Airbrush users.

The following are some of your questions and answers we have researched for you.  If you still have questions, please email us at hobbywest@shaw.ca.



Q: Why should I use SuperLube?
A: When you’re using a substance to lubricate your airbrush needle (or trigger) you run the danger of some of that substance getting into the spray and onto your project (that’s why you only need a little bit). The question is what will happen when that greasy substance reacts with your paint. SuperLube doesn’t like to react with oil-based or water-based paints – that’s why we recommend it – we know what it will do. If you use an oil-based lube it might react with your acrylic paints (it’ll mix like oil and water).
Another suggestion is Woodland Scenic Light Gear Oil.  As with any Oil, please test your airbrush on a scrap paper or project just to ensure your oil doesn't interfere with your paint work.

Q: Why do I need to lubricate the needle?
A: The needle doesn’t really need the lube rather the needle in turn lubricates a little o-ring deep in the body of the brush that prevents blowback. It’s really rather small so it doesn’t need much lube and it only needs to be lubed every now and then.

Q: Are airbrushes hard to keep clean?
A: No, it’s quite a simple task, though it might be difficult at first. Develop a regular maintenance habit of rinsing the airbrush with the appropriate cleaning agent for the material being sprayed between color changes. Thoroughly clean your airbrush at the end of the workday. Check out the appropriate cleaning guide for your brush online or come down and see us to help you find a copy.

Q: How often should I thoroughly clean my airbrush?
A: It’s easy to say that you should clean your airbrush at the end of each workday; however, you should thoroughly clean the airbrush when the inevitable buildup of dried paint begins to interfere with normal operation. For some people this is once a week, for others, it’s once a day. It should be noted that regular and timely rinsing of wet paint with the appropriate cleaner will lengthen the amount of time between thorough cleanings. In short, rinsing more means cleaning less.

Q: How do I rinse my airbrush?
A: To rinse out the airbrush, simply flush it with the appropriate paint cleaning agent – Medea Airbrush Cleaner for water-based paints and paint thinner for oil-based paints. Never immerse or soak an entire airbrush. When using flammable cleaners never flush the airbrush near an open flame or lose electrical wiring and always flush the cleaner into an appropriate container to deal with these materials.

Q: How often should I rinse my airbrush?
A: You should rinse out the airbrush generally in-between color changes, before taking a break, and at the end of the day. Here’s why – wet materials clean up easier than dry materials. Rinse it while it’s wet and you won’t have to do a thorough cleaning as often when it’s dry. Rinsing between color changes is a maybe. If you’re blending colors and working from light to dark then chances are good that you won’t have to rinse. If you need a pure color then you will have to rinse out your airbrush.

Q: When I’m thoroughly cleaning out my airbrush why should I use a solvent?
A: Solvents quickly break up the molecular bonds paint forms when it dries. We recommend acetone or lacquer thinner as solvents, but stay away from paint thinner – paint thinner, in our experience, doesn’t seem to work well cleaning airbrushes. Do not soak your airbrush in a solvent. There are parts and greases in other areas of the airbrush that don’t take kindly to it. With that said, you should generally use only as much solvent as can be held in a cotton swab or in a pipe-cleaner. WARNING: DO NOT SPRAY SOLVENTS THROUGH THE AIRBRUSH. Bad idea, here’s why.

Q: What about Medea Airbrush Cleaner? Can I use it to clean out my airbrush instead of solvent?
A: There’s a saying-”the right tool for the right job”. Medea Airbrush Cleaner is great stuff and it works really well on wet paints and materials. Paint is a suspension of pigment in an adhesive substance. When the adhesive is wet you can wash it off with soapy water-when it is dry, you need something to dissolve the molecular bonds the adhesive creates. This is where solvents such as acetone or lacquer thinner come into play.

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