Top 10 Model Building Tips for Beginners

Here is our top 10 model tips for beginners. Feel free to add your tips to the comments below!
Always read the instructions of your kit and follow the steps in order.


10. Use a hobby knife or sprue cutter to remove pieces from sprues. This give you a clean piece with no extra flashing, don't twist them off as you can ruin the pieces.

9.  Using a fine detail brush try to paint as many pieces when they're still on the sprue frame. This gives you more control and you don't need to worry about how you'll hold the tiny pieces while painting them.

8.  when using glue, less is usually more.  Put a small dab on glue on a bottle cap and use a tooth pick to control where the glue goes. Always 'dry fit' the part first so you know how it will fit before gluing.

7.  Applying water slide decals can be tricky.  Soak the decal for about 15 seconds it may curl, but wait and let it uncurl.  To place the decal, hold it to where it goes and slide it off the paper and onto the model. If the decal needs repositioning, then wet your fingers with water and move the decal into position carefully. There may be some residue from the glue, use a wet q-tip to clean it off being careful not to wipe the decal away. Allow the decal to fully dry before handling.

6.  Many sprues and model parts have the mould release agent still on them.  Make sure to immerse them in a shallow pan of mild dish detergent and warm water to rinse the chemical off and then dry completely.  Using extra fine grit sandpaper on the larger pieces works well too. Use a light touch so you don't sand off fine details.

5.  Always have your hobby area set up with whatever you need  for that kit. your model, glue, rag, thinner, sprue cutter, paint, brushes, dish of water, etc. If you don't have a designated spot and need to move your items around, use a cleaning caddy or toolbox to keep your supplies together and easy to transport.

4.  Never mix acrylic paint and enamel paint.  If you need to use both on your model kit paint one first and let it dry for a minimum of 6 hours, then paint with the other.  If you don't let the different paint types dry you may get a blister look.

3. When spray painting always use light coats. If you spray on too thick it may run or create an orange peel look to your paint job.

2. Did you glue your fingers together?  Never pull them apart!  Roll them apart or use nail polish remover or debonder to break down the glue bond.  If you got glue on any sensitive areas such as around your eyes or mouth, please go see a doctor and get them to assist you safely.

1.  HAVE FUN! If you get frustrated put the lids on your paint, thinner and glue, wash your brushes and go do something else for a while.  I've seen many model kits thrown at walls and out windows!  

Next week: Maintaining Action Figures Clothing

Chinook & Hobby West
"Where the Fun Begins!"
ph: 403-243-1997
email: hobbywest@shaw.ca
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ChinookAndHobbyWest
Twitter: @HobbyAndToy
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Welcome To Model Railroading - Part 2

Welcome Back to Part two of our beginner series in Model Railroading. This post is all about the basics of building kits, the different track types, DCC, types of trains, what the numbers on a steam locomotive mean and painting terms.

If you have any questions or comments please email us or leave them below.

Plastic Model Building Kits:

Three Types:

1.      Pre-Built Plastics [model buildings].

2.      Build your self plastics

3.      Build your self-Wood.

Scenery Materials: Various:  Main one is Woodland Scenics,  Trost’s own, Bachmann, Heki. These are just a few of the brand names. Almost all scenery lines are geared to function with most or all scales.

People, Vehicles, Railroad parts i.e. crossing signs, lights, etc.

Woodland scenics, Model Power, Miniatures By Eric, Excel, Hobits, Micro Engineering, Trost’s Own, Herpa, Athearn, Wiking, McHenry, Kadee to name a few.

Track:  HO and N scales: Peco; Atlas; EZ Bachmann – O scale; Atlas O, RealTraxx

There is quite a lot for variety in most scales.

Different Types of Model Railroad Track

A question that always comes up first is – What type of model train track should I use? There are several different brands and sizes available. Mostly what you use is personal preference. One thing to remember is that the size of the rails is reported as the code. For example code 83-model railroad track has larger rails than code 55 tracks.

The difference between Atlas HO Code 83 and Code 100 track: Literally, the code of a piece of track is the height of the rail in thousandths of an inch (meaning code 83 rail is .083" high; code 100 rail is .100" high). The significant difference lies in the physical appearance of the two types of track. Atlas Code 83 track has fine, brown ties whereas Code 100 has slightly thicker black ties. Because of its accuracy (and the color of the ties), Code 83 is more prototypical, and therefore more realistic than Code 100. Code 83 is known as a finer-scale track, and is the choice of discerning modelers. Atlas carries a full line of both Code 100 and Code 83 products. (There are fewer problems with code 100 & its more economical for the new Model Railroader)

The smaller rails are often used for branch lines and the larger codes are for mainlines. This is often the way they appear in the prototype (real life), so you can simulate that on your layout if you wish. A caveat to this is that you have to make sure that when you make the transition between different codes on the same layout, you have to line up the rails properly so there won’t be any derailments.

Model railroad track is sold as sectional track, i.e., small sections of either straight track or curved track that come in 2-3 different standard radii, or as flextrack, a very flexible 3 ft piece of track that can be curved to whatever radius you want. Sectional track, but not flextrack, can also be purchased with or without roadbed attached.

Digital command control (DCC) is a newer form of model railroad wiring and train control in which each locomotive can be separately controlled from one power unit or from one walk around throttle.

Each locomotive has to be fitted with a special decoder device programmed to accept signals from the power (or control) unit when that particular decoder is “dialed in” from the control unit.  For more info on this, come in and see us.

Accessories

The lighting for structures, signals, street lamps, etc. is usually accomplished with AC current which may or may not require a separate transformer from the one you use to control trains, depending on your specific power unit.  Most transformers have an AC and DC portal (screws) on the back or side. There are too many brands to name although a few are Woodland Scenics, Minitronics, Techtronics, Rail King, etc.

Types of model trains

Steam: A steam locomotive is a locomotive powered by a steam system of tubes. The term usually refers to its use on railways, but can also refer to a "road locomotive" such as a traction engine or steamroller.  Model steam engines are all electric although any scales HO and larger have the option of adding smoke fluid or pellet for the real effect.

Diesel: A Diesel train is a type of railroad locomotive, which is powered by a Diesel engine. Several types have been developed, the distinction being  how the Diesel mechanical power is conveyed to the driving wheels (drivers).

Electric: An electric locomotive is a locomotive powered by electricity from an external source. Sources include overhead lines or third rail.

Categories of model trains by service   

Passenger: A passenger train is one, which includes passenger-carrying vehicles. It may be a self-powered multiple unit or several rail cars together, or else a combination of one or more locomotives and one or more unpowered trailers known as coaches, cars or carriages. Passenger trains travel between stations or depots, at which passengers may board and disembark. In most cases, passenger trains operate on a fixed schedule and have superior track occupancy rights over freight trains.

Streamliner: A streamliner is any vehicle that incorporates streamlining to produce a more stylish shape that provides less resistance to air. The term is most often applied to certain high-speed railway trains of the 1930s to 1950s, and to their successor "bullet trains"    

                                                                                                                 

Freight: A freight train is a group of freight cars hauled by one or more locomotives on a railway, ultimately transporting cargo between two points as part of the logistics chain. Trains may haul bulk material, inter-modal containers, general freight or specialized freight in purpose-designed cars.

Types of model railroad cars 

Hoppers, Covered Hoppers; Gondolas; Tank cars; Refrigerator cars; Boxcars; Automobile transporters; Inter-modal transporters; Flatcars; Livestock cars & Cabooses.

What do the numbers mean?

These numbers are used for the classification of steam locomotives. For example- 0-4-0, 4-4-0, 2-8-2, 4-6-6-4, etc.

-The 1st number is the number of leading wheels. These wheels support the front of the boiler and guide the locomotive along the track.
-The 2nd (or middle) number is the number of drivers. These wheels are connected together and to the cylinders with rods to transfer the power from the steam to the rails. They also support the bulk of the locomotive.
-The last number is the number of axles in the trailing truck. These wheels support the cab and firebox, where the fuel is burned.
-On Diesel locomotives 4 wheel (2 axle) are called B trucks, 6 wheel (3 axle) are C trucks.

About Paints & Terms

In store we carry two types of paints, Acrylics and Enamels.

                                            

Acrylics: Acrylic paint is fast-drying paint containing pigment suspended in an acrylic polymer emulsion. Acrylic paints can be diluted with water, but become water-resistant when dry. Acrylic artist paints may be thinned with water and used as washes

Enamels: Enamel paints are oil based paints. These paints require a longer drying time and they are water and soap resistant

Wash: A wash is a painting technique in which a paint brush that is very wet with solvent and holds a small paint load is applied to a wet or dry support

Drybrush: Drybrush is a painting technique in which a paint brush that is relatively dry, but still holds paint, is used. The resulting brush strokes have a characteristic scratchy look that lacks the smooth appearance that washes or blended paint commonly has.

Tools: These are very important, as with any tools, its best to have the correct one for the job you need to accomplish. Your most important tools will be: Track cutters, wire cutter/strippers, hobby knife and replacement blades, light gear oil, needle nosed pliers, track cleaning eraser, extra wire in at least three different colours, hot glue gun, stiff bristle paint brush, set of jewelers screwdrivers, fine to extra fine sandpaper, patience and a sense of humor.

Chinook & Hobby West would love to help you make the most of your Model Railroading experience.  Come and visit us at 5011 MacLeod Tr. SW. Calgary, AB. 

Email hobbywest@shaw.ca. We are open 10-6 pm weekdays, 10-6 Saturdays, closed Sundays and Holidays. 

Chinook & Hobby West carries N, HO and O scale trains in store.  Any other scales that come in collections, we put on our ebay site.  Our eBay handle is gossamer13


Next week: Throttle up Thursday begins! Once a month we'll be featuring a model train enthusiast. 

Chinook & Hobby West
"Where the Fun Begins!"
ph: 403-243-1997
email: hobbywest@shaw.ca
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ChinookAndHobbyWest
Twitter: @HobbyAndToy
Pinterest:https://www.pinterest.com/hobbymum

Welcome to Model Railroading - Part 1

Welcome to Model Railroading - 

Model railroading is a fascinating hobby and has been dubbed by many as the “World’s Greatest Hobby”.   It is very versatile and incorporates many learning opportunities and is so fun for all ages. It includes creativity with sculpturing, painting, airbrushing, decorating and landscaping, and encourages scientific exploration of electronics, physics, mechanics, engineering and architecture, all combined with humor, friendship, family activities, social interaction, and the great sense of accomplishment.

Things to consider before starting:

• Space – plan out how big your layout can be, within the room you have available. Keep in mind that you need to get to all points that has track. So you may want to consider a U shape or a hole in the middle that you can get to any track should you need to.
• Scale- this goes with the Space point. If you have outdoor space, you may want to model in G or O, in a small to large room HO, or for a really small space N. There are other scales too.
• Budget- plan to spend on the materials for the table, base, roadbed and track first. Then some model train pieces, buildings and landscaping. This will also prevent you from getting overwhelmed with too much to do.
• Tips- if you are interested in using long flat bed cars, passenger cars or other long cars you need to make allowance for large radius curves or they will derail. Come and visit us for great beginner guidebooks and guidance in planning.

Model trains come in various scales (gauges):

Ø  Z 1:220 (with all the letters identifying gauges Z became the smallest so they used the last letter in the alphabet)

Ø  N  (rails are Nine mm apart- hence the N) 1:160 **

Ø  HO  (Half O or ‘aitch oh’) 1:87  **

Ø  OO  - 1:76 runs on HO track and is the British version of HO

Ø  S   scale 1:64

Ø  O   (was referred as zero (or 0h) gauge) 1:48**

Ø  G (Garden) 1:20.3 to 1:32

Ø  There are many more gauges, although they are important to die-hard railroaders, we will not be listing them here.  You can ask Rob, or Robby about those.

Gauge refers to the width of the track, measured between the railheads.  Different from scale, which is proportion to life-size.

At present, Chinook & Hobby West carries three Scales of Model Trains for Sale:  

**O scale, HO Scale, and N scale.   Any other scales that come in collections, we put on our ebay site.  Our eBay handle is gossamer13


Next week: Learn about different track, buildings, painting and more!

Chinook & Hobby West
"Where the Fun Begins!"
ph: 403-243-1997
email: hobbywest@shaw.ca
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ChinookAndHobbyWest
Twitter: @HobbyAndToy
Pinterest:https://www.pinterest.com/hobbymum

5 Tips for Beginner Locomotive Maintenance

5 Tips for Basic Locomotive Maintenance

First things first: Make sure to have a suitable hobby area to work at. If you're  working on small scales such as N or HO scale you’ll need about 24 in by 24 in space.  If it’s a larger scale such as O or G you’ll need much more space. Oh, and ask permission before using the dining room table…… interrupting mealtime or getting hobby grease on the heirloom table may not go over so well with other members of the household.

(This is Robby's hobby desk space - good light, hard work surface, simple table)

Second: Now that you have a work-space, make sure you have the proper tools. Also check to see if the manufacturer included any information on proper care and maintenance of your piece. 
(Suggested LIST OF TOOLS)-Light oil, paper towel or small weave rag or cotton buds, wheel/track cleaner or wheel cleaning kit.

Third: now you’re ready to start!  Remember that routine maintenance will help your model train to run its best and hopefully prevent any major repairs down the road. On the majority of Locomotives  light oil on the motor & wheel bearings, and a light grease in/on the gears may be needed- make sure that it is plastic compatible (Labelle & Woodland Scenics both have great light oil). Make sure to look at your manufactures instructions / specifications as they may have different requirements and may need something specific.

Take your time with this as a little goes a long way - 1 drop of oil per bearing or crankpin is usually enough (sometimes more than enough...), and a very little bit of grease on the gears.  Don't glob everything on there - you'll just have to clean it off later anyway (or it'll leak onto the track work and make a mess).  Have some paper towel or fine weave rag to help clean up excess and/or spills.

Forth: pay attention to your wheels! Dirt build up on wheels spreads back to the rails and can cause electrical pick-up problems. Excessive dirt on the wheels themselves can even cause a derailment.  There are some great cleaners and ‘helping hands’ when it comes to cleaning the wheels of your model train. We’ve done two previous articles on this and they’ll be listed below for you to check out too. 

If you run your finger along the wheel (where it meets the track) and your finger gets dirty, it’s time to clean the wheels.  Take a cotton bud and dip it in your track cleaner. Run it around the wheel until the bud comes clean. Make sure to remove any cotton left behind so it doesn’t get into your gears later.  You can do this with a fine weave cloth too.

Watch the Video for the Roto Wheel Cleaner CLICK HERE

Some locomotives have Traction Tires, it’s like a tiny elastic band of rubber on the wheels; make sure it’s not stretched, worn or broken. If it is then the tire can’t grip the wheel of the train so it will hesitate or not move. These can be bought/ordered from your local hobby shop. 

DON’T FORCE A LOCOMOTIVES WHEELS TO TURN! You can wreck the trucks, gears or worse! Be patient and if you’re uncertain, bring it to a hobby shop that has trained repair people!

Fifth: make sure your track has been cleaned too. Some people forget that cleaning the track, at least monthly, is important for a smooth running model train!

If you have done all the above and your train is still having issues, it could be the motor. Most common motor failures:
         a) no lubrication to motor bearings/bushings- motor either does not run            or squeaks loudly.
         b) over lubrication - oil/grease is everywhere causing debris to collect on the motor, retaining motor heat and fowling armature-brush contact.
         c) when motor brushes are replaced on the motor make sure it is cleaned & lubed, carbon dust from the old brush set is not cleaned from armature and motor housing.
         d) dirty or pitted motor armature
         e) worn brushes
         f) rust caused by moisture, which deposit on motor armature, armature
         shaft, motor bearings and brush holder


There are many books and articles available with so much information. Take your time when cleaning your locomotive and if you're in doubt, take it to a hobby shop that specializes in train repairs. Most of the time, they will be glad to show you some tips!


If you enjoyed this article and/or if you have a comment or something to share, please leave it below.  Also, make sure to check out our Website, Facebook and YouTube Channel for inspiration, learning and fun!

BONUS: For more info about wheels and wheel cleaning check out these great posts to learn more  “Replacing Model Train Wheels” and “Simple Wheel Cleaners For Model Trains”.

Thanks for reading this blog post. Please subscribe so you don't miss a posting. Train posts are every other week and alternate with our model and toy posts.

Happy Hobbying!

Alberta Railway Museum Part 2

Alberta Railway Museum in Edmonton, AB

Last July my family and I checked out The Alberta Railway Museum in Edmonton, AB. (Click here for that article.)  Due to a computer glitch we couldn't finish the second installment that was originally planned.
So, here's some info on the museum and we hope to do many more as my family and I travel to, learn about and hear from other museums.

The Alberta Railway Museum is referred to as an open air museum as most of the exhibits and fun are outside and not in buildings. Although there are some buildings on site and a great gift shop, most of the fun is when you walk from and into exhibit to exhibit!

When does it open in 2016? the park opened May long weekend and is open summer weekends only. Hours are from 10 am to 5 pm. CLICK HERE for more info.

What can you see?  Restored, Refurbished and in progress real train cars, locomotives, buildings and equipment.  You can even buy tickets for a ride around the park with a knowledgeable conductor to answer questions, give tidbits of history and recreate a piece of history.

Where is this fantastic museum located?  24215 34 St, Edmonton, AB T5Y 6B4, Canada

What is their website address? CLICK HERE


Why go? Great outdoor museum for those interested in history, trains and some fun exercise. It's great for the whole family!

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What museum would you like to see featured from Alberta or British Columbia in Canada?  We want to hear from you, so don't forget to leave a comment and share this with a friend!

Make sure to Like us on Facebook: CLICK HERE
Visit our Website: CLICK HERE

THANKS FOR READING THIS AND HAPPY HOBBYING!!

Valerie

Model Kit Building And Painting Tips And Tricks

Our staff here at Chinook & Hobby West have noticed many of the same questions from our beginner level model builders. We have done some research and pooled our own knowledge to share some tips and tricks to help you along your hobby adventure.

Please leave a comment below and let us know your tips, ideas or if this article helped you.
Enjoy and Happy Hobbying!

Building a Model

1. You need a designated space such as a large table with good lighting.
2. Read through the instructions a couple of times before you start.
3. Cut, don't snap off, individual parts from the plastic sprues.
4. Compare the parts included, to the list of parts in the instructions.
5. Smooth the edges of parts using a sanding stick or file to remove nubs and excess plastic resulting from manufacturing, then wash them in a mild detergent and allow to dry. Make sure to use gentle pressure when sanding so you don't take too much off.
6. Collect your tools.
7. Follow the parts assembly sequence exactly. Be patient and don't jump ahead.

Extra Tips
-Use the minimum amount of glue necessary to make a solid bond. 
-Enhance your assembled model by filling in gaps with putty and carefully sanding the filled surface.

Come down and see us at Chinook & Hobby West or email us if you have any questions.

Painting Your Model

1. Do some research if you're building a replica. Every era has incorporated its own style. A replica of a Cadillac painted pink would not be an accurate model of the original car but may be your vision of your dream car.
2. If you can, find a modeler's club and learn hands-on tips from more experienced modelers. There are some great online forums on the internet.
3. Plan your paint scheme if you're doing your own design. Write down the colours you're thinking about so you don't forget that vision.
4. Work on a clean surface.
5. Clean your model. Use rubbing alcohol or plastic prep and let the model dry thoroughly. This helps to remove all oil and any other contamination, including excess glue.
6. Put the model or model part on a paint stand or on a drop cloth.
7. Shake the spray can thoroughly to mix paint properly.
8. Test the nozzle by spraying a piece of cardboard, such as the inside lid of your model box.
9. Plan on multiple thin coats rather than one thick coat.
10. Start spraying to one side of the model, stroke over the model, and spray past the model before you stop.  Keeping the spray about 6 to 8 inches away from the project.

Extra Tips 
-Aerosol spray paints are good, but you may want to invest in an airbrush as you grow in the hobby.  
-Bright, shiny finishes can be achieved by painting the desired color, letting the model dry, spraying with a clear coat, and then finishing with a buffing compound. 
-Complete the detail work as necessary with fine-tipped artist brushes.
-Use thinners for your type of paint (acrylic thinner for acrylic paint) when brush painting.
-Paint in a ventilated area. 

-Wear a painter's mask if you are sensitive to smells. 
-Many experienced modelers suggest using primers when painting.

We hope that these tips and tricks help you create a piece you can be proud of.  Remember to have patience, take your time and if you get frustrated, walk away (after you clean up). You can always go back to it later!

Please leave a comment and remember, these ideas are not finite; there are so many things to try and experiment with.  Have FUN!

These tips are suggestions and we are not responsible for damage or accidents that occur to your project.

Rocketry Tips- Recovery Wadding, Why Do I Need It?

Summer is a great time to take up Model Rocketry.  Who wouldn't want to see something get 'blown-up'.*

Flame resistant recovery wadding protects the recovery system and is necessary to launch model rockets.  Although it looks like toilet paper or thin paper towel, it is NOT the same!  Wadding is specially treated to protect your parachute and rocket from melting or exploding so you get the maximum enjoyment out of your model rocket.


#3556 - Pro Series II™ Recovery Wadding

Flame resistant recovery wadding is necessary for launching model rockets. It prevents melting and destruction of your rocket and parachute.

Enough wadding for 10-12 Pro Series II launches.

Can also be used with any Estes rockets!

#2274 - Recovery Wadding

The flame resistant wadding is required in most Estes rockets unless they are tumble recovery.

Contains 75 sheets, enough for about 18-25 flights and is absolutely necessary to launch model rockets.

Come on down to Chinook & Hobby West - It's Where The Fun Begins!
http://www.chinookandhobbywest.com/

hobbywest@shaw.ca

1-403-243-1997


If you're in Calgary, AB or area here is a great site with a calendar so you can see rockets of all sizes being launched.  They also have the info on the by-laws you need to stick with so you don't get a ticket launching those rockets  Calgary Rocketry Association
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* please be careful when using any rocketry supplies or engines. You can get seriously injured if you do not follow the instructions.  Chinook & Hobby West is not responsible for loss, injury or death that may be caused by using any products we may or may not feature.

10 Tips For Buying A Model Kit

Generally a model kit contains a scale model of an object or vehicle - automobile, aircraft, military vehicle, motor, building, replica figure, etc. (there are many to look at and choose from). Such kits include all the necessary pieces of the idea photo on the box (make sure to ask if you are unsure as some buildings show fences and trees, but these are sold separately or just a special part(s) of a larger model), which the hobbyist assembles and then personalizes with paints and decals (usually sold separately).
With model kits, there are two primary types of hobbyists: the builder and the collector. The builder fancies the challenge and the hands-on aspect. The collector, on the other hand, focuses on the possessing, and many collectors opt to display the kits untouched, in their original packaging.

Buying a Model Kit

For the new hobbyist, buying a model kit can be a daunting task simply due to the sheer amount of choice that’s available. Collectors have to choose a vehicle and the scale at which they want to work. Then, they have to factor in price, complexity, customization, tools and supplies, and so forth. If the desired model is no longer manufactured, then the hobbyist has to deal with a series of additional concerns, including appreciation. Choosing a kit is not simple, but even the new hobbyist can avoid the most common pitfalls by following these 10 tips:

1. Research Model Kit Types

The first step is awareness of the various types of kits that are available. The traditional model kit, often called Snap-Tite or Skill Level 1, is made of plastic and simply snaps together. Snap-Tite kits are very newbie-friendly and usually only require mild filing and light gluing to complete.  Experienced hobbyists will eventually graduate to Skill 2 requiring glue and paint and to any of the more advanced Skill 3-5 kits as well as die cast models and radio-controlled vehicles.

2. Choose a Vehicle Type

The next step is to choose the type or class of vehicle. The most popular model kit classes are classic, sports car, NASCAR, hot rod, truck, and service vehicles. Classic car models tend to focus on American muscle, but there are models available for the classics from all over the world. Skill 1 classics tend to be the most accessible kind of kits for the beginner. Hot rods are roadsters, typically open wheel, that have very distinctive aesthetics and engine mount configurations. Hot rods make great looking models, but they can be quite challenging in the building and customization stages. The most popular type of automotive model kit is the sports car model (Corvette, Austin Martin, Ferrari, etc), a class that focuses on street legal sports cars from all years and from all around the world. In the U.S., NASCAR models rival the sports car and classic car classes in overall popularity. The service vehicle class, which are intricate and challenging, includes vehicles like fire trucks, ambulances, snowplows, and so forth.
And just to add to the pile, don't forget Military vehicles, aircraft and ships.

3. Select an Interesting Subject

When choosing a particular model, collectors should opt for a subject that engages them. A Porsche 911 is very popular and a staple in most automotive model collections, but it can also be very boring due to that commonness. Rather than choosing a model based on what is already known, the collector should shop around until a model chooses them. Finding a model car that is aesthetically interesting, challenging to build but still suitable to the beginner, can be difficult, but such models are available.

4. Decide on Scale

The next step is to choose the scale of the model. The most common model size for a car is 1:25 (and manufacturers often use 1:24 rather than 1:25), which is approximately 6 to 7 inches long. In Europe, 1:18 is also very popular. The 1:18 kits are approximately 9 inches long. There are also 1:60 scale kits, which are approximately 3 inches long and are particularly well suited to the small hands of a young child. Small kits are also popular among collectors and builders who enjoy the miniaturization aspect, but tiny kits can require a great deal of patience and fine hand control.
We will discuss in a future blog about the different scales in military, ships and aircraft.

5. Evaluate the Complexity

After choosing the model and scale, consider the complexity of the kit. The first gauge of complexity is the number of pieces in the kit. A Skill 1 kit usually has less than 50 pieces. A Skill 2 kit can have up to 200 pieces. A Skill 3-5 kit can have 200-1500 or more pieces and include many fine parts.
Skill 1 kits are preferable for beginners, children, and adult builders who just want a relaxed experience. Most children can complete a Skill 1 kit with little supervision and only occasional help. Skill 2 or higher kits require additional skills, tools, and supplies. Be aware that choosing a complex model that the builder isn’t ready for can intimidate and overwhelm the builder and therefore loose interest in a very enjoyable hobby.

6. Consider Customization Options and Necessities

An often hidden aspect of model building is the optional, and sometimes necessary, customization and personalization of the model. Automotive model kits are often labeled 2-in-1, 3-in-1, and so on; what that means is that the build process has a branch that allows for multiple finishes. For instance, many classic car kits come in a 3-in-1 configuration, which means that the collector can build it as a stock car, custom car, or race car. Many hobbyists opt to build these kits in all variants and display them alongside each other. First-time builders, however, should consider a basic kit that has no variants for simplicity.

7. Consider the Needed Tools and Supplies

Another important consideration is tools and supplies. The beginner will require basic hobby tools, such as a hobby knife, tweezers, paint, a fine file, and modeling glue/cement. Skill 2 and higher kits, however, will require a range of hobby knives and files as well as putty, sanding paper, spur cutters and perhaps a rotary tool or other power tools. Diecast models require metalworking tools, and radio-controlled models require batteries, an electronic motor, controller, and so forth.

8. Opt for a New Automotive Model Kit

Manufacturers produce kits in runs, which are typically time-limited. Once a run ends, the kit then becomes vintage and begins to appreciate in value. Vintage model cars sell at many times their original sticker price. For the builder, the most common reason to buy vintage is to get a particular classic car, which tend to go in and out of production. Although this will limit the hobbyist’s options, the beginner should focus on new kits in order to work with modern materials and avoid the vintage premium. (many kits are done in a re-release at milestone marks such as the 10th, 25th or 50th year anniversary of that kit or the car/piece)

9. When Buying Vintage, Price It and Haggle for It

If the collector opts to purchase a vintage model, then they should price it first. Price guides will provide a general appraisal, and the Internet is a powerful resource to determine the actual going rate. When buying a vintage model, shop around; check online, local shops, garage sales and shows/conventions. Once found, don’t settle for the listed price, which is generally a best-case scenario for the vendor.
(Be realistic in your negotiations you don't want to insult the one selling the kit in case you want to buy from them again)

10. New Builders Should Have a Contingency Plan

New builders should have a contingency plan because first builds usually do not go according to plan. A benefit of buying a current kit is that the collector can easily purchase an additional kit from the store or replacement parts directly from the manufacturer. Some vendors sell open box kits, which may be missing parts but are a cost-effective way to have spare parts on hand.

Conclusion

Buying a model kit for the first time can be difficult due to the sheer amount of choice available. A hobbyist’s first step should be to educate himself or herself on the various options that are available: classes, models, scales, books and other sources. Next, the beginner should choose a subject that interests them, but also one that isn’t so complex that makes it difficult to learn. With the first build under one's belt, the builder will be able to graduate to one of the more intricate kits the next time, and go into dioramas - but that's another blog......

What did you think of this article?  Please email us or comment on this post and let us know your thoughts and questions.

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Frequently asked questions about Model Building

Welcome to Chinook Hobby Talk Blog! Ready to learn something?

There are so many great books to get started into a hobby or to hone your techniques.

One of our fav's for Car and Truck plastic model building is:

Here are some beginner questions we get asked:

What is a scale model? 
A scale model is a miniature representation of either the real thing or a vehicle from the builder's imagination. Most scale models are made from kits, but some are made from scratch. Modelers strive to build with care so the result looks like the real thing. Careful research from books, photos, and observing the full-size subjects comes into play. Builders try to eliminate seams and create realistic paint jobs, along with adding extra details. 

What is meant by scale?
The scale of a model determines its size in relation to the real thing. A model in 1/25 scale is one twenty-fifth the size of the original. In other words, it would take 25 models end-to-end to span the measurement of the actual subject. 

What is a vacuum-formed kit?
Like an injection-molded kit, these are made from plastic. But vacuum-formed kit parts are heat-pressed into sheets of styrene plastic. Each part must be cut from the sheet, the edges of the parts must be sanded, and a few other special steps must be introduced to the building process to get these kits together. A vacuum-formed kit can be assembled with plastic cements, superglues, or epoxies. They usually are not for beginners, but often may be the only kits available of certain subjects. You should have a couple of years of experience with injection-molded kits before trying one of these. Vacuum-formed kits are generally manufactured and sold by small aftermarket companies. 

What is a resin kit?
Instead of being molded with hot plastic as injection-molded and vacuum-formed kits are, resin kits are made from liquid resins poured into silicone rubber molds. The liquid resin sets after a few minutes, and the molds are separated to release the parts. Resin kits usually are of subjects that are not available in injection-molded kits, and they can be expensive. You must use super glue or epoxy to build resin kits. Like vacuum-formed kits, resin kits are made and sold by aftermarket companies. 

What are photo-etched parts?
These are fine detail parts that usually are obtained as aftermarket items. Parts such as instrument panels, seat buckles, louvers, and grilles, are photographically transferred onto thin sheet metal. Areas outside the images of the parts are etched away in a chemical bath. These add-on parts take some experience to handle and install, but they can improve the look and detail level of a model. 

What kind of cement should I use?
Most plastic kits can be built with tube or liquid-type plastic cements. Superglues (also known as CA for cyanoacrylate) and epoxies also can be used on plastic kits, and will work with other materials such as resin, metal, and wood. 

How can I use superglue on my models?
Superglue can be used to put kits together, and gap-filling superglues (thick formulas) can be used to fill seams and depressions. Cured superglue can be sanded and polished just like plastic. 

Are there kits for people just starting out in modeling?
Yes. Dozens of simple kits have parts that snap together. You won't need glue to assemble them, and you may not need to paint them, either. You can move on to more complex kits after you get your feet wet. 

What kind of paints should I use on a scale model?
Several brands are available, usually in hobby shops. Enamels are oil-based paints and they require paint thinner to thin and clean up. Enamels are easy to apply and come in a wide assortment of colors. Enamels also are available in spray cans, many matching bottled paints in the same line. Water-based acrylic hobby paints are becoming more popular. They are more difficult to airbrush, but they are less toxic than enamels. Most acrylics are thinned and clean up with water. Automotive lacquers, such as touch-up paints, are also used by many builders. Their advantage is they go on thin. These paints require the use of primer, and are very toxic, so a two-stage respirator and sufficient ventilation should be used when spraying them. 

How does a modeler decide which scale to build?
Some modelers prefer to work in one scale only so they can see the size relationship of their subjects. But others may not be concerned with constant scale. If there is only one kit of the subject they are looking for, then that is the model they will build. Usually, large scale models have the best detail, but the variety of subjects is limited. Automobiles usually are found in 1/24 or 1/25 scales. There are some kits in 1/12, 1/16, and 1/20, and 1/43 offers a wide variety of kits and finished models. 

What is stretched sprue?
The material that the parts of a plastic kit are attached to is called sprue. Modelers occasionally use this raw material to produce new parts for their models. For example, by heating the sprue over a candle flame, it can be stretched as thin as hair or bent to produce other shapes. Stretched sprue often is used to represent antennas. 

What are pin marks and mold seams?
During the injection-molding process, certain blemishes appear on the parts. Ejector pins that push the parts from the mold often leave small circular marks on the part. Mold seams sometimes are visible too. They appear as small raised lines along the line where the halves of the mold separate. Modelers try to eliminate these blemishes on their models with filler and sandpaper. 

What is detailing?
Modelers often add details to their models that are not provided in the kits. Some details, such as improved instruments, seats, seat belts, antennas, engine accessories, and decals, are available as aftermarket items, but some modelers make their own improvements. 

Of course there have been many more questions and we are open to answering yours too!  Drop us an email with your questions to hobbywest@shaw.ca and we can help you.

Please feel free to leave comments below!

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