Saturday, 28 November 2015

Gift Series Diamond Blocks Minion - Product Review

Chinook & Hobby West just got in some really neat Lego style sets from LOZ. Called Diamond Blocks.

I have to admit that one of the best perks of working at a hobby store is that you get to 'product test' the new product!

This time it's Robby's turn.

Out of the four designs that we are experimenting with, Robby decided to put together Minion #9161.
It has 260 pieces, and the box suggests 14+.  Robby is 13 and had almost no trouble putting it together.  Although it did take some time as the pieces are small.

The rest is from Robby's point of view:


First read the instructions and make sure all your pieces are included.  There's 260 so check carefully! (however, there are one extra of every piece so if you loose one there's an extra.)


As you construct this piece, you do it in layers starting at the base and it's hollow inside.  I'm going to build it as a display so I'll probably glue it together. You can to, if you're never going to dissemble it.

Now by this stage I was two and a half hours in to building it. Although you do have to look at the instructions very closely because they're not as clear as Lego's are.



The mouth took me about two try's (depending on your skill with Lego building you may do better - lol) as it is a very weird shape.



You can place the pupils anywhere in the eye's but I chose to make him look straight.  



                           The goggles are fun because they make him look more like a minion.




          I put the finished piece in a custom made display case just for fun, and enhance the look.



You can buy these neat sets (and the proper display case) at our online store, or come down to our store location in Calgary.

 The others we currently have at Chinook & Hobby West are:



We have over 33 different designs!
Each piece is between 100 and 300 pieces and stand about 3 inches tall when completed.


Thanks for reading our blog and please leave a comment about what you thought about this entry or if you have any ideas for future posts.

~Robby
& Val













Monday, 20 July 2015

A Day At the Alberta Railway Museum - Part 1

July 1st, 2015 we had a chance to visit the Alberta Railway Museum. First we went through the open air museum, then we got a special behind the scenes tour.  So on behalf of Chinook & Hobby West, the Gale family and of course, the Alberta Railway Museum - enjoy!

What's greeting you at the beginning?


CP  GP30 - 1 of only 2 that CP owned this one is just a husk and very cool to see one live and not just in photos



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Once we got into the park No. 73 was waiting to greet us. It's a NAR 2-8-0 Consolidation: missing a drive gear, but impressive sitting at the front of a boom car and bay window caboose.




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The next on our tour was the NAR (Northern Alberta Railway) 40' Flanger (Val's fav).  #16601 built in 1914 by National Steel Car Company in Hamilton, ON.





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The NAR Cook Car #17062. Built in 1917 - this 40' wood sheathed cook car was originally built as a box car and was converted in 1944 to a kitchen car.



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Then we were distracted by  CN #9000 - Canadian Nationals very first F-3 delivered in 1948. For Canada Day it sported Canadian flags. It was the first run of the season. Followed by coaches that were in service until  1975. They're light weight coaches used for daytime commuters, back East.



On this run the conductor was Hans Huzinga. It was fascinating listening to all the history of the park and the different trains that he was sharing with us all.

The engineer was Graham Wood. He worked for CN as an engineer before retiring and volunteering to help run the #9000 at the Alberta Railway Museum.

The tail end brakeman for the day was Joel Mullan. He was great with the kids, encouraging them to come and try the whistle that was at the back of the car.

The ride itself takes you back and forth along a shortline. Graham, the engineer, made sure we had a smooth ride with no jolts, hesitations or bumps. He said 'the Old Lady needs to be treated gently so everyone can have a fun ride'.

On our short trip we pass by an old set of trucks and some prime movers that were donated to the museum by Northern Alberta Railway and Western CNR.




Our conductor shared how this shortline connected to the main line that was once used for runs to Lac La Biche.

As Hans shares all his wealth of knowledge the whistle blows twice.  Then as the train comes to a stop and then smoothly shifts to traveling in reverse, the whistle then blows three times.  Hans lets us know that when the train travels forward on a main line it blasts its whistle twice.  If it travels in reverse, that's three blasts.

After the train ride ends, we pull into the St. Albert station that houses a fun gift shop and the telegraph office which leads into a mini museum of the history of the telegraph.  Both are a must see before you leave this great museum.

After a couple of hours taking our time through all the wonderful pieces - all with differing degrees of restoration; we were given a behind the scenes look in the car sheds and engine shops.

But that's for next week.........

Come back and check out our next post and feel free to comment on this one.  Share thoughts, memories or what you may want to see.


Val & Rob








Tuesday, 14 July 2015

Model Kit Building And Painting Tips And Tricks

Our staff here at Chinook & Hobby West have noticed many of the same questions from our beginner level model builders. We have done some research and pooled our own knowledge to share some tips and tricks to help you along your hobby adventure.

Please leave a comment below and let us know your tips, ideas or if this article helped you.
Enjoy and Happy Hobbying!



Building a Model
  1. You need a designated space such as a large table with good lighting.
  2. Read through the instructions a couple of times before you start.
  3. Cut, don't snap off, individual parts from the plastic sprues.
  4. Compare the parts included, to the list of parts in the instructions.
  5. Smooth the edges of parts using a sanding stick or file to remove nubs and excess plastic resulting from manufacturing, then wash them in a mild detergent and allow to dry. Make sure to use gentle pressure when sanding so you don't take too much off.
  6. Collect your tools.
  7. Follow the parts assembly sequence exactly. Be patient and don't jump ahead.
Extra Tips
-Use the minimum amount of glue necessary to make a solid bond. 
-Enhance your assembled model by filling in gaps with putty and carefully sanding the filled surface.

Come down and see us at Chinook & Hobby West or email us if you have any questions.

Painting Your Model
  1. Do some research if you're building a replica. Every era has incorporated its own style. A replica of a Cadillac painted pink would not be an accurate model of the original car but may be your vision of your dream car.
  2. If you can, find a modeler's club and learn hands-on tips from more experienced modelers. There are some great online forums on the internet.
  3. Plan your paint scheme if you're doing your own design. Write down the colours you're thinking about so you don't forget that vision.
  4. Work on a clean surface.
  5. Clean your model. Use rubbing alcohol or plastic prep and let the model dry thoroughly. This helps to remove all oil and any other contamination, including excess glue.
  6. Put the model or model part on a paint stand or on a drop cloth.
  7. Shake the spray can thoroughly to mix paint properly.
  8. Test the nozzle by spraying a piece of cardboard, such as the inside lid of your model box.
  9. Plan on multiple thin coats rather than one thick coat.
  10. Start spraying to one side of the model, stroke over the model, and spray past the model before you stop.  Keeping the spray about 6 to 8 inches away from the project.
Extra Tips 
-Aerosol spray paints are good, but you may want to invest in an airbrush as you grow in the hobby.  
-Bright, shiny finishes can be achieved by painting the desired color, letting the model dry, spraying with a clear coat, and then finishing with a buffing compound. 
-Complete the detail work as necessary with fine-tipped artist brushes.
-Use thinners for your type of paint (acrylic thinner for acrylic paint) when brush painting.
-Paint in a ventilated area. 
-Wear a painter's mask if you are sensitive to smells. 
-Many experienced modelers suggest using primers when painting.

We hope that these tips and tricks help you create a piece you can be proud of.  Remember to have patience, take your time and if you get frustrated, walk away (after you clean up). You can always go back to it later!
Please leave a comment and remember, these ideas are not finite; there are so many things to try and experiment with.  Have FUN!




These tips are suggestions and we are not responsible for damage or accidents that occur to your project.

Monday, 29 June 2015

Rocketry Tips- Recovery Wadding, Why Do I Need It?

Summer is a great time to take up Model Rocketry.  Who wouldn't want to see something get 'blown-up'.*

Flame resistant recovery wadding protects the recovery system and is necessary to launch model rockets.  Although it looks like toilet paper or thin paper towel, it is NOT the same!  Wadding is specially treated to protect your parachute and rocket from melting or exploding so you get the maximum enjoyment out of your model rocket.


#3556 - Pro Series II™ Recovery Wadding
Flame resistant recovery wadding is necessary for launching model rockets. It prevents melting and destruction of your rocket and parachute.

Enough wadding for 10-12 Pro Series II launches.
Can also be used with any Estes rockets!


#2274 - Recovery Wadding
The flame resistant wadding is required in most Estes rockets unless they are tumble recovery.
Contains 75 sheets, enough for about 18-25 flights and is absolutely necessary to launch model rockets.

Come on down to Chinook & Hobby West - It's Where The Fun Begins!
http://www.chinookandhobbywest.com/

hobbywest@shaw.ca

1-403-243-1997


If you're in Calgary, AB or area here is a great site with a calendar so you can see rockets of all sizes being launched.  They also have the info on the by-laws you need to stick with so you don't get a ticket launching those rockets  Calgary Rocketry Association
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* please be careful when using any rocketry supplies or engines. You can get seriously injured if you do not follow the instructions.  Chinook & Hobby West is not responsible for loss, injury or death that may be caused by using any products we may or may not feature.

Friday, 10 April 2015

Tips for Painting and intalling a canopy on your model aircraft



Have you ever felt frustrated trying to put a conopy on your aircraft?  Did it cloud up or the paint wasn't looking great on the canopy accent?
     I know how you feel! When little mistakes happen it tends to kill any creative inkling you may have felt.
It's daunting enough creating your favourite aircraft – never mind putting together a piece you can be proud to show off.
     Here's some helpful tips to help create a model to be proud of; without fancy terms, and keeping it simple.

 When you've finished this post, you'll know exactly how to create a great canopy for your next model plane.
Please make sure to comment on this blog post with your thoughts and don't forget to sign up to our Newsletter to keep up on new product, contests, sales and more!

Let's have some fun!

-Two kinds of successful mask. Liquid and tape



     Before starting, make sure you have all your supplies together. Your mask tape, hobby knife with a sharp blade (#11 works best), proper cutting surface, good lighting, hobby paint for your project and Clear parts glue

MASKING THE CANOPY FOR PAINTING
1)  make sure that all the clear airplane model parts are clean, dry and free of any fingerprints or dust. And your hands are clean and dry.
2)  Start with the 6mm Tamiya masking tape. Tear off a 4' piece and starting at the rear flat edge, carefully run the tape along the bottom outline of the
canopy.  Gently press into place.
 a short video with more tips for Masking Your Canopy



3)  Using the 6mm tape, mask alongside any raised parts (so you don't cover the part you want to paint)
4)  Bring the tape smoothly to the end of the edge and cut off excess.
Tip:  Make sure to cut past the end of your piece of canopy or you may cut into or scratch, your conaopy

5)  Either continue to mask areas you don't wish to paint with the 6mm or fill in with the wider tape such as the 18mm.
6)  Take your time when masking - it's a learning process.

Tip: If you choose to use liquid mask, just use a fine brush to paint on the liquid mask and let it set before you paint your model (follow the directions on the
bottle).  Peel off mask after you've let the paint dry, scoring the mask along the paint line for clean edges.

TIP: It's really important to take your time, use a very sharp hobby knife and cut a clean, precise section, free of tearing. Any raised details you intend to paint,
should be the only areas visible through the mask.




PAINTING YOUR CANOPY:
     Now it's time to paint the canopy of your model aircraft.
1)  Airbrush or handpaint your first coat using the interior cockpit colour and allow some time for it to dry.
2)  paint the fuselage colour over it and allow it to dry.  Or finish the canopy of the aircraft by applying your preferred paint colours
3) finish with a final coat to seal the paint (dull, gloss, etc.) over the canopy before you remove the mask.
 4)  After all paint has dried, use your hobby knife and carefully run it along the edge of your mask and gently lift off the mask with the tip of the blade and slowly peel off the mask.

Enjoy your work!

Tip: don't use dullcote or gloss cote directly on clear areas, if you wish that part to move on your model. Spray the model and clear part separately, then attach the clear part.  Don't spray any unmasked clear parts as dullcote can cause the part to fog, so keep the mask on and spray the painted areas.

Now you're ready to glue on your canopy

USING CANOPY GLUE (clear parts glue)
- This is a glue that dries clear and doesn't cloud your clear parts

  Now your canopy is ready to install. I like to use Testors Clear Parts Glue to glue it in place. This glue goes on white but then dries clear. It's best to put a small puddle on a scrap piece of cardboard and use a tooth pick to draw a fine line of glue around the perimeter of the Canopy.



Now place it in position and use folded piece of Kleenex or paper towel to hold it in place and avoid fingerprints. Once the glue has dried, apply the rest of the glue and guide it into position if needed.

 Tip: The Testors Clear Parts glue cleans up with water before it dries so you can wipe small smudges off with a damp cloth.



```Extra Tip:  using Future floor finish. This technique will make the clear plastic appear thinner and clearer. Surprisingly, it can also hide minor scratches and blemishes that are often unavoidable when working with clear model kit parts.
      Check out how:

Now it's your turn!  Please leave a comment on what you thought of this blog post.  We would also love to see your work or works in progress!  Please email us with your photos Today!

Monday, 7 July 2014

10 Tips For Buying A Model Kit



Generally a model kit contains a scale model of an object or vehicle - automobile, aircraft, military vehicle, motor, building, replica figure, etc. (there are many to look at and choose from). Such kits include all the necessary pieces of the idea photo on the box (make sure to ask if you are unsure as some buildings show fences and trees, but these are sold separately or just a special part(s) of a larger model), which the hobbyist assembles and then personalizes with paints and decals (usually sold separately).
With model kits, there are two primary types of hobbyists: the builder and the collector. The builder fancies the challenge and the hands-on aspect. The collector, on the other hand, focuses on the possessing, and many collectors opt to display the kits untouched, in their original packaging.

Buying a Model Kit

For the new hobbyist, buying a model kit can be a daunting task simply due to the sheer amount of choice that’s available. Collectors have to choose a vehicle and the scale at which they want to work. Then, they have to factor in price, complexity, customization, tools and supplies, and so forth. If the desired model is no longer manufactured, then the hobbyist has to deal with a series of additional concerns, including appreciation. Choosing a kit is not simple, but even the new hobbyist can avoid the most common pitfalls by following these 10 tips:

1. Research Model Kit Types

The first step is awareness of the various types of kits that are available. The traditional model kit, often called Snap-Tite or Skill Level 1, is made of plastic and simply snaps together. Snap-Tite kits are very newbie-friendly and usually only require mild filing and light gluing to complete.  Experienced hobbyists will eventually graduate to Skill 2 requiring glue and paint and to any of the more advanced Skill 3-5 kits as well as die cast models and radio-controlled vehicles.


2. Choose a Vehicle Type

The next step is to choose the type or class of vehicle. The most popular model kit classes are classic, sports car, NASCAR, hot rod, truck, and service vehicles. Classic car models tend to focus on American muscle, but there are models available for the classics from all over the world. Skill 1 classics tend to be the most accessible kind of kits for the beginner. Hot rods are roadsters, typically open wheel, that have very distinctive aesthetics and engine mount configurations. Hot rods make great looking models, but they can be quite challenging in the building and customization stages. The most popular type of automotive model kit is the sports car model (Corvette, Austin Martin, Ferrari, etc), a class that focuses on street legal sports cars from all years and from all around the world. In the U.S., NASCAR models rival the sports car and classic car classes in overall popularity. The service vehicle class, which are intricate and challenging, includes vehicles like fire trucks, ambulances, snowplows, and so forth.
And just to add to the pile, don't forget Military vehicles, aircraft and ships.

3. Select an Interesting Subject

When choosing a particular model, collectors should opt for a subject that engages them. A Porsche 911 is very popular and a staple in most automotive model collections, but it can also be very boring due to that commonness. Rather than choosing a model based on what is already known, the collector should shop around until a model chooses them. Finding a model car that is aesthetically interesting, challenging to build but still suitable to the beginner, can be difficult, but such models are available.

4. Decide on Scale

The next step is to choose the scale of the model. The most common model size for a car is 1:25 (and manufacturers often use 1:24 rather than 1:25), which is approximately 6 to 7 inches long. In Europe, 1:18 is also very popular. The 1:18 kits are approximately 9 inches long. There are also 1:60 scale kits, which are approximately 3 inches long and are particularly well suited to the small hands of a young child. Small kits are also popular among collectors and builders who enjoy the miniaturization aspect, but tiny kits can require a great deal of patience and fine hand control.
We will discuss in a future blog about the different scales in military, ships and aircraft.

5. Evaluate the Complexity

After choosing the model and scale, consider the complexity of the kit. The first gauge of complexity is the number of pieces in the kit. A Skill 1 kit usually has less than 50 pieces. A Skill 2 kit can have up to 200 pieces. A Skill 3-5 kit can have 200-1500 or more pieces and include many fine parts.
Skill 1 kits are preferable for beginners, children, and adult builders who just want a relaxed experience. Most children can complete a Skill 1 kit with little supervision and only occasional help. Skill 2 or higher kits require additional skills, tools, and supplies. Be aware that choosing a complex model that the builder isn’t ready for can intimidate and overwhelm the builder and therefore loose interest in a very enjoyable hobby.

6. Consider Customization Options and Necessities

An often hidden aspect of model building is the optional, and sometimes necessary, customization and personalization of the model. Automotive model kits are often labeled 2-in-1, 3-in-1, and so on; what that means is that the build process has a branch that allows for multiple finishes. For instance, many classic car kits come in a 3-in-1 configuration, which means that the collector can build it as a stock car, custom car, or race car. Many hobbyists opt to build these kits in all variants and display them alongside each other. First-time builders, however, should consider a basic kit that has no variants for simplicity.

7. Consider the Needed Tools and Supplies

Another important consideration is tools and supplies. The beginner will require basic hobby tools, such as a hobby knife, tweezers, paint, a fine file, and modeling glue/cement. Skill 2 and higher kits, however, will require a range of hobby knives and files as well as putty, sanding paper, spur cutters and perhaps a rotary tool or other power tools. Diecast models require metalworking tools, and radio-controlled models require batteries, an electronic motor, controller, and so forth.

8. Opt for a New Automotive Model Kit

Manufacturers produce kits in runs, which are typically time-limited. Once a run ends, the kit then becomes vintage and begins to appreciate in value. Vintage model cars sell at many times their original sticker price. For the builder, the most common reason to buy vintage is to get a particular classic car, which tend to go in and out of production. Although this will limit the hobbyist’s options, the beginner should focus on new kits in order to work with modern materials and avoid the vintage premium. (many kits are done in a re-release at milestone marks such as the 10th, 25th or 50th year anniversary of that kit or the car/piece)


9. When Buying Vintage, Price It and Haggle for It

If the collector opts to purchase a vintage model, then they should price it first. Price guides will provide a general appraisal, and the Internet is a powerful resource to determine the actual going rate. When buying a vintage model, shop around; check online, local shops, garage sales and shows/conventions. Once found, don’t settle for the listed price, which is generally a best-case scenario for the vendor.
(Be realistic in your negotiations you don't want to insult the one selling the kit in case you want to buy from them again)

10. New Builders Should Have a Contingency Plan

New builders should have a contingency plan because first builds usually do not go according to plan. A benefit of buying a current kit is that the collector can easily purchase an additional kit from the store or replacement parts directly from the manufacturer. Some vendors sell open box kits, which may be missing parts but are a cost-effective way to have spare parts on hand.


Conclusion

Buying a model kit for the first time can be difficult due to the sheer amount of choice available. A hobbyist’s first step should be to educate himself or herself on the various options that are available: classes, models, scales, books and other sources. Next, the beginner should choose a subject that interests them, but also one that isn’t so complex that makes it difficult to learn. With the first build under one's belt, the builder will be able to graduate to one of the more intricate kits the next time, and go into dioramas - but that's another blog......

What did you think of this article?  Please email us or comment on this post and let us know your thoughts and questions.




partial source 

Monday, 30 June 2014

Start Sets by Scalextric

There are a few Start Sets by Scalextric. The track is a little sturdier. Some of these sets:




What else makes them neat?

All you need to get started
This sets includes everything you need to get started, including skill level hand throttles – twist the dial on the side for the novice setting so that cars won't come off the track, or set it to advanced for more realistic skill-based racing. Also included are track, a lap counter, and two  racers.

Fun, flexible, and realistic
A lap counter is included in this set so that two drivers can set up to 50 laps of endurance racing. Each hand controller has a two-position selector switch which allows the driver to choose slow or fast speed settings to reflect the driver's experience.
The Scalextric Start track has a very easy push-together, pull-apart system which keeps assembly time down to a minimum. There are four alternative track shapes to make, and the vehicles are tough and robust. A sheet of decals is supplied with each car so that the car can be decorated with racing graphics.

Adjust the difficulty for different skill levels.

Why choose Scalextric Start?
The Scalextric Start range is designed to be the perfect introduction to Scalextric for children aged 5 years and up, featuring parts designed specifically for younger racers. The track pieces are especially easy to connect and disconnect, making for easier assembly and tidying away. Each set includes super tough cars built to take a tumble, and they need not whiz off the track at all thanks to the optional novice setting on the hand throttles. Scalextric Start is also compatible with standard Scalextric products.
Scalextric Start provides everything for the rookie racer in a ready-to-race package. Accelerate into the world of 1:32 scale slot racing; available in a selection of ready-to-race sets, Scalextric Start provides everything for the rookie racer!

With so many choices, you can really have an interesting layout and remember it can be expanded on with any number of accessories and of course, more track.



We hope you enjoyed this blog post.  Please comment and let us know what you think.  Feel free to share this article with a friend!

Thanks, from all the guys at Chinook & Hobby West