Don't Get Stuck - picking out adhesives and glue. Part 3

Types of Glue

The main types of glue that a modeler will need in their armoury are;

• Polystyrene cement (reviewed July 29/13)
• Cyano acetate (‘super glue’) also known as cyanoacrylate (CA glue) (reviewed July 29/13)
• Epoxy Resin (reviewed Aug 5/13)
• Clear ‘canopy’ glue (reviewed Aug 5/13)
• Gloss varnish (reviewed Aug 5/13)
• Clear rubber/silicone cement (today's item)
• PVA adhesive (today's item)
• White glue/woodworkers glue (today's item)
• and there is always a new one coming to the market

Clear Rubber And Silicone Cements

There is a wide range of tube glues mainly intended for domestic use that are often branded as ‘All Purpose’ or ‘Universal’ glues.  They generally dry clear and remain rubbery.  The majority are solvent based, but there are varieties advertised as “safe for children” that do not contain any solvents.

PVA Glue

This is a thin water based white glue that dries rubbery.  It has wide range of commercial and domestic uses.  For example, in the construction trade it is often watered down and used to prime walls prior to painting.  It is very popular in kindergartens and schools because it is ideal for sticking paper and card and safe for children to use.  

We do not carry this at this time

White Glue / Woodworkers glue

This looks very much like PVA glue, being white and water-based but it is more viscous.  It has limited use for most modelling applications, but is very good at bonding wood, so may be useful when making dioramas or bases.  Some modellers use it to bond clear parts such as cockpit canopies.  It may dry clear or white depending on the manufacturer.

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Replacing Model Train Wheels

Wheels are just wheels, right? Actually there are many different types of wheels on real and model trains. Putting the right ones beneath your rolling stock can make a big difference in the way your trains run.

Size Matters

Wheels come in many different sizes. For freight and passenger cars, 28 inch, 33 inch and 36 inch diameter wheel sizes are most common. 28 inch wheels are sometimes found on older equipment but are most frequently seen in modern times on multi-level autoracks where reducing the car height as much as possible is the goal. 33 inch wheels have been the most common size for most of the 20th Century. 36 inch wheels are seen on modern cars, especially hoppers, covered hoppers, tank cars and gondolas. Locomotive wheels can come in even more sizes.

Choosing the right size is important since changing the size of the wheel will change the height of the car. If couplers are mounted on the car body, their height will also be altered.

In addition to size, there are numerous other construction detail differences in prototype wheels. Most of these are hard to distinguish in model form. One of the most commonly modeled variations is a pattern of ribs on the back of the wheel. These were frequently found on wheels through the first half of the 20th Century. The ribs acted like a fan to help cool brakes and journals. With the adoption of roller bearings in the latter half of the century, ribbed-back wheels became increasingly less common.

Why Replace Wheels?

"My train rolls fine, why do I have to replace the wheels?"

Maybe you don't. Many of today's models already come with very free-rolling metal wheelsets. Older models however, especially those with plastic wheels, may benefit from a new set of wheels.

Test Your Metal

Plastic wheels not only have a greater friction on the rail, they also collect dirt much more easily than metal. Dirt build up on wheels spreads back to the rails and can cause electrical pick-up problems. Excessive dirt on the wheels themselves can even cause a derailment.

Metal wheels roll more freely and are much easier to keep clean. Heavier wheels tend to handle imperfections in the track better as well. An added benefit, you'll get a little more of that "clickety-clack" sound as the train crosses rail joints. Because they roll more freely, your locomotives will be able to pull longer trains.

In addition to the wheels themselves, the journals also have a major impact in how well a truck will roll. The journal is where the end of the axle rides in the sideframe of the truck. Model journals are much more basic than the prototype. Most model trucks are plastic today, some are metal. Plastic on plastic, metal on plastic, or metal on metal, the best axle is the one that fits its sideframe properly. Choose and axle that is loose enough to spin freely, but not so loose that it will wobble in the pocket.

Oil 'em Up

Even with a good fit in the journal, a little light oil will help keep your wheels turning. As on the prototype, the journal is a site of great friction. Left unchecked, a model "hot box" can actually wear out the sideframes or the ends of the axles. This is most common when metal axles are used with metal sideframes. Put a small drop of light oil in the sideframes when you insert the wheels.

Changing the Wheels

Actually changing out wheels on most rollingstock is a very easy process. For plastic trucks, simply spread the sideframes outward gently until you can pop out the wheels and axle. It may be easier to do this with the truck removed from the car. Some metal trucks may require additional disassembly. Sprung trucks (with actual springs between the sideframes and bolster) require special car to prevent springs from coming loose.

Many manufacturers make replacement wheelsets for locomotives as well. Usually, locomotive wheels are press-fit onto the axle and can be removed / installed with moderate pressure. Choose a replacement wheel that is made for that type of model.

Gauge

One of the most important elements of any wheelset is its gauge. Wheels spaced too close or too far apart will not pass through switches, crossings or even normal track. Gauge can be checked by using a standards gauge like those made by the National Model Railroad Association. An NMRA gauge can check many other critical clearances too.

If your wheels are out of gauge, remove the axle from the truck. Holding a wheel in each hand, gently twist and pull / squeeze the wheels to move them in or out as necessary. This can normally be accomplished with moderate pressure. Recheck the gauge and when the adjustments are final, re-install the wheelset.

Choosing the Right Wheels

Perhaps the hardest part of replacing wheels is choosing the right ones. There are many different manufactures making replacement wheels in every scale. Most replacement wheel manufacturers offer guides to choosing the right set for you. You don't have to use the same manufacturer's wheels on every car, but consistency can make operations more standard and sometimes buying in bulk can save money.

If you are not certain, come down and talk to our guys. Or send us an email with your questions.

We Carry:

• True-Line Trains
• Inter-mountain
• Bachmann

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Don't Get Stuck - picking out adhesives and glue. Part 2

Types of Glue

The main types of glue that a modeler will need in their armoury are;

• Polystyrene cement (reviewed July 29/13)
• Cyano acetate (‘super glue’) also known as cyanoacrylate (CA glue) (reviewed July 29/13)
• Epoxy Resin (today's item)
• Clear ‘canopy’ glue (today's item)
• Gloss varnish (today's item)
• Clear rubber/silicone cement (next week)
• PVA adhesive (next week)
• White glue/woodworkers glue (next week)
• and there is always a new one coming to the market

Epoxy Resins

These adhesives consist of two parts – the hardener and adhesive – which need to be thoroughly mixed before application.  Sometimes they come in separate tubes and sometimes they come in a double syringe.  
Like superglue, the epoxy resins glue almost anything to anything, but they also need a good clean grease free and preferably roughened surface to get the best bond.

Clear ‘Canopy’ Glues

Sticking clear plastic parts presents problems.  The fumes given off by polystyrene cements and even cyano glues can make the clear parts become foggy.  It is very difficult to use epoxy resin glues on clear parts without smearing the glue on the parts.
For this reason, a few modelling suppliers have produced their own glues specifically designed for clear plastic parts and these are sometimes called ‘canopy’ glues.

Gloss Varnish

It may be surprising to find gloss varnish in a list of adhesives because clearly it is not intended to be used as a glue at all.  However, gloss varnish is surprisingly useful for holding very small parts, such a photo etch buckles in place.

Continued Next Week!

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Introduction to O Scale Model Trains

O scale run by Robby at the Chinook & Hobby West  booth at Supertrain 2013

O scale model trains are all proportioned 1:48 to the prototype. In other words, they are 1/48th the size of a real train. O scale conveniently works out to 1/4 inch = 1 foot.

O is one of the oldest scales still in common use today. And it's popularity is growing. O scale can be confusing for beginners however because there are many variations.

2 vs. 3 Rails

Some O scale trains run on conventional two-rail tracks like other scales. The majority of mass-produced trains run on 3-rail track that is derived from a system developed by Lionel. The third rail simplifies wiring by making the outer rails the same polarity. This makes it possible to build reversing loops, wyes and turntables without a creating a short.

O scale track and curves don't follow all of the same conventions as other scales, read more about the different types of O scale track here.

Hi-Rail

Generally, two-rail O scalers are more apt to build a conventional scale layout with broad curves and scale equipment. 3-rail layouts have been generally thought of as more toy like. There is a quickly growing segment of the O scale market that is building highly realistic layouts using 3-rail track.

These "hi-rail" layouts combine the availability and generally lower cost of three rail models and track with a scale appearance. The term hi-rail comes from the oversized rails used in 3-rail track.

Toy Trains

A large segment of the O scale market collects and operates trains that are more like toys than scale models. These trains date back to the 1940s and many are quite valuable. These layouts typically include very sharp radius curves and equipment that is reduced in size and modified to negotiate those curves. Simple tubular track and an abundance of animated accessories are also halmarks of a classic toy train layout.

Reproductions of many of the most popular trains and accessories from the past are still produced today along with more contemporary models. This makes it affordable for new-comers to recreate an operating layout, but can also be a challenge for new collectors who may think they are getting something old.

Proto 48

Even with their greater scale appearance, most two-rail O scale trains still suffer from one flaw...their gauge. The 1.25" standard gauge track used for most O scale models actually works out to 60 scale inches, slightly wider than the 56.5" of standard gauge. A small niche of the hobby actually corrects this by laying all track by hand and installing correct wheelsets on rollingstock.

Choosing O Scale

If you are considering choosing O scale trains for your model railroad, here are some thoughts to keep in mind.

1. Availability - The most popular 3-rail O scale trains are widely available. Two-rail models are somewhat harder to come by, although 3-rail versions can be converted. For the collector market, older models can be found at train meets and online auctions. Obviously some are more plentiful than others.
2. Cost - The cost of O scale trains varies greatly. 3-Rail trainsets are comparable in cost to smaller scales. More detailed scale models and collectibles can run very high prices.
3. Size - The size of O scale trains makes them fairly easy to handle for children. The lighted and animated accessories and simple wiring of 3-rail track are also appealing. The overall size and mass of O scale models really captures the feeling of the prototype and offers a great platform for super-detailing and customizing models.
4. Space - Toy train layouts, with their unprototypical curves, can actually be built in a rather tight area. A circle of O-27 track actually takes up less space than a comparable HO scale starter set with 18" radius curves. Scale layouts however will require a much greater minimum radius and necessitate a larger room for the layout. A 72" radius curve is considered adequate for most large O scale models - that means a simple circle will require a platform or room at least 12'x12'.

Source:

Don't Get Stuck - picking out adhesives and glue. Part 1

**Getting the right glue for the right job is very important, so modelers need to know what is available.  Although this article will cover the main types of glue, the huge variety of glues from so many manufacturers means that you should always pay attention to the instructions on the particular product you are using.**

Types of Glue

The main types of glue that a modeler will need in their armoury are;

• Polystyrene cement
• Cyano acetate (‘super glue’) also known as cyanoacrylate (CA glue) 
• Epoxy Resin
• Clear ‘canopy’ glue
• Gloss varnish
• Clear rubber/silicone cement
• PVA adhesive
• White glue/woodworkers glue
• and there is always a new one coming to the market

Polystyrene Cement

Polystyrene (poly) cement is only suitable for rigid polystyrene plastic.  It works by dissolving the surface of the plastic which then re-hardens.  If a bead of poly cement is put between two pieces of plastic, then both faces of the plastic dissolve and meld together so that when they harden they have formed a solid joint.  In effect, the two pieces have been welded together, so a very good bond is formed that is as strong as the plastic.

Cyanoacrylate Adhesive (‘Superglue’)

When this glue was introduced, it was advertised as instantly bonding almost anything to anything else and indeed it is very versatile.  The only substances that resist it seem to be certain soft plastics.  As such, it is very good for bonding hard plastics, resin and metals to each other, which makes it very useful on multi-media kits.  However, it not easy to use and should perhaps be avoided by novices and children.  It can be unforgiving, with the thin formulas curing in one or two seconds and often seeming to stick fingers to the kit much better than it sticks kit parts together. 
Click here for tips on storing Superglue

Watch for Part 2 Next week!

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Customizing Action Figures & Accesories Part 2

Decals

You can use heat to melt the HOF insignia off with a hair dryer or iron. -- Rob

You can remove decals by soaking the garment in lighter fluid. They will peal right off. -- Wong Lu Meng Marcellus

I used paint remover on my SotW Air Cav outfit to remove his stripes. -- Rob

I just tried something with a mixed degree of success using an off the shelf proprietary cleaning/stain removal product available here in the UK called Dab It Off. So far I have successfully removed nametags etc from Joe HOF uniforms and early 90's AM uniforms OK. I met with a little more resistance when removing the AM logo from the T shirt in the AM Abseil Gear and the HALO Rangers Airborne Ranger Tabs, a little more persistence would probably have brought them of completely. I managed to get rid of all the ink, but was left with a thin flexible clear film which is only visible if you know it is there. The only thing this stuff would not touch at all so far was the SOTW Airborne Rangers insignia. -- Winch

I have found a some-what reliable technique for removing the decals from the 21st Century OG 107 fatigue shirts (Special Forces Advisor and Army Ranger).

1. First, heat the shirt in the clothes dryer or use a hair dryer.
2. While the shirt is still hot, take clear packing tape and stick it over the decal you want to remove. Press down hard and quickly pull off. This will remove a portion of the decal.
3. Keep doing this until the entire decal is removed.

Be sure to get new pieces of tape when the tackyness starts to fade. It will take a bit of effort, but it should remove the decal cleanly. I used Manco Crystal Clear tape that meets Postal Regualtions and it worked fine. Beware of duct tape, it may leave glue residue on your garments.

I'm not sure this will work on Hasbro gear. The 21st decals are a low heat, rubber-type base. When they get hot, the edges of the decal curls. I have not seen the Hasbro decals react this way (except Jane's flightsuit and the General's jacket) -- I Zhevsk

Windshields

Cutting plexiglass is a very iffy thing, do it slowly. Draw a paper template outlining the exact size of the windshield that you want cut. Then afix the template onto the plastic using some double sided tape. After that use a straight edge and a metal scribe and slowly scribe away. If you are patient and persistant enough, you should be able to cut through.

If you have access to a bandsaw, use that and finish the piece by sanding and buffing the edges on a buffing wheel. It is much quicker but if the plastic is too thin, the fast vibration of the saw tends to crack the plastic. This can be prevented to a certain degree by laying a piece of tape along the line that you want cut -- J Goh

Gun Mounts

I made a mount for the old .30 cal by using a length of plastic tubing (that had an inside diameter that the mount would fit into) and glueing that to a piece of sheet styrene. I drilled a hole through the styrene and used a nut & bolt through the mounting hole on the floor between the seats to mount the rig to the jeep. To remove it, just unbolt the setup! -- Rob Sorrels

Buckles

When the belt buckles on my 21st Century uniforms broke, I replaced them all with 18 gauge aluminum wire I got at my local hardware store. The material bends nicely, and it looks great. I used silver wire, but I think you can get wire that is darker. -- mtbbikeseth

I used some .030 wire from a hobby shop to mend a 21st century belt buckle. -- Andy

Cleaning Gear

See Cleaning and Washing

Glueing Gear

I used "vinyl liquid patch" (VLP) to repair some holes in a raft and man I couldn't be happier. This stuff is used for fixing all kinds of tears and cuts in vinyl. I own an upholstery shop and use it a lot on small tears in auto upholstery or furniture. I think you can buy it at most hardware and auto parts stores. I also used it to attach a couple of straps to a vintage life vest. Now my two wounded vintage pieces look as good as new. -- Noxaf

The safest way to repair a pin hole in a raft is a teeny patch of vinyl tape. If you want it to look really authentic, use a contrasting color. If you don't want it to show, use acrylic paint and match the color. I am assuming you want to be able to inflate it. If you don't want to risk melting it and don't want to go to the trouble of matching the paint, you can make it look inflated by filling it with clean sand. Then when you don't want it to look inflated anymore, wash out the sand. The sand trick works well when you want these to stay in place on your displays even when your inflatable doesn't have a leak. -- J. C.

To patch a small hole in a vinyl raft for display, neatly use just a drop of crazy glue on the damaged spot. I say neatly because if you miss or smudge the glue it will discolor the raft. Then, don't mess with it! I usually let it set overtnight then inflate it a bit. -- Andy Cabrera

Epoxies should never be used on any plastic or styrene models on the outsides where it might show. Chemical reactions will eventually cause the plastic to weaken and deform, and any paint you put over the epoxy will eventually develope cracks. Avoid epoxy putty as a gap filler or build up material. Use Squadron "green" putty or Testor's "white" putty. Both are formulated to bond permanently to styrene and will never degrade it. Avoid using any adhesive or lubricant on your models that is petroleum based! It will eventually react with the plastic and degrade it. -- Richard A. Lewis

Here are some glues that won't work on the Sunny Smile Strike Force Tank so you don't waste you time: ZapAGap or any cynoacrylite, Model glue, Elmers, Hot glue- hi or low temp. What is even more difficult is painting this kind of plastic. I still haven't found anything that won't chip off easily. -- Mark B.

See also Broken Limbs

Reshaping Gear

See Making Parts and Accessories.

Storing Gear

Get one of those big Rubbermaid latching footlockers. Try and find a hunter green and grey one. Take it, paint some custom offical Mil.Spec marking on it. Use yellow and black caution tape and trick it up. Make it the 'Offical GI Joe storage area', your kid will eat it up. -- Steve Harrison

Painting Gear

I would try using acrylic paints on rubber items because the paints are flexible. I don't think there is anything that will stay on forever, but the acrylics are pretty durable. Back in the late '70s, I painted a design on a vinyl tire cover that was on the back of my van. The painting out-lasted the tire cover. -- Rob Sorrels

Acrylics are very easy to mix to get what ever color you want. I keep a good supply of the primary colors and a box of paper dixie cups (the small bathroom kind) for mixing the paint in. This way I can buy the less expensive stuff and experiment with color:

Here are some good mixes using the primaries red, yellow, & blue

Olive drab #1: 5 parts yellow 4 parts red, 1 part blue
Olive drab #2: 5 parts brown, 2 parts green
Desert tan: 10 parts yellow 3 parts red, 1 part blue

Like cooking, you have to experiment a bit to get it to taste the way you like it. -- Matthew

For painting vinyl or rubber, you should be able to find vinyl paint in a spray can in an auto parts store. I know that you can buy it in quarts at an auto paint supply shop to shoot in a spray gun. It's used for refinishing vinyl car tops. -- Donnie

Hard styrene (as in rifles) can be painted with enamels (model paints). Soft plastics have a plasticizer that won't let enamels dry. For soft plastic use acrylics. The plasticizer in the flexible plastic won't allow enamel paint to dry and it'll stay tacky forever. -- Rob Sorrels

Before painting, wash the item well with dish soap and a toothbrush. Dry it well. Prime it if you need to (for example when a light color on a dark piece). Don't get in a hurry. Have fun! -- Rob Sorrels

You may have to sand the item first with a fine grit paper. Then prime with a color primer closest to the paint color you want to use. Then paint. It takes a little more time and effort, but the paint job should last a little longer. -- I Zhevsk

After you finish painting, spray the item with a clear overcoat. This will smooth out the item and make it look more "factory" in appearance. You can choose from flat, gloss, and semi-gloss. I like the semi-gloss, but try 'em all and see which you like best. -- Rob Sorrels

To paint the kind of plastic used in a Sunny Smike tank, try first priming with white Krylon spraypaint (found at Wal-Mart). Two brands of paint you might choose for the final coat: 21ST Century Space Age Paint and Top Flite Advanced Formula LustreKote. Here's the url for some info on these products: http://www.towerhobbies.com/index.html. -- Alex G

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What Is the Best Model Train Scale?

Question: What Is the Best Model Train Scale?

Model trains come in many different sizes, or scales. For those just getting started in the hobby, deciding on a scale for themselves or their children can be a big dilemma. The short answer is that there is no one single "best" scale of course, but there may be a best scale for you.

Answer:

Understanding Scale

If you're trying to determine what scale model train you should buy, you need to know how many different options you have. And just what do those letters mean anyway?

Read up on different scales and their proportions to the prototype. You should also learn the difference between scale and gauge. You can also get more details on a specific scale by following these links:

• Z Scale
• N Scale
• TT Scale
• HO / OO Scale
• S Scale
• O / O27 Scale
• G / No. 1 Scales
• "Standard Gauge"
• Narrow Gauges

Making Your Decision

Now that you know a little more about your options, which scale is best for you? To answer that, let's find out a little more about you.

Age

Age is often considered a factor when buying model trains for children, but the decision doesn't get any easier with age. Many modelers find the larger scales more comfortable as vision and dexterity strain in their senior years.

Space

It's not the size of the trains but the size of the layout. Even an efficiency appartment has room for model railroading, it all depends on your goals. Bigger isn't always better. If you don't have room / desire for a large layout, there are still many options: a smaller scale to pack in the most scenery, a mid-size scale switching layout, larger scale modules or static displays.

Budget

We all work on a budget, some tighter than others. The relationship of scale and cost isn't quite as simple as you'd think. Cheap and expensive models are available in every size. One difference however is how many models of a given size you'll need to fill your layout's space. In other words, do you buy a 20 car train of $20 HO scale cars or an 8 car train of $50 O scale cars? Both will cost you about the same amount in both your wallet and your platform.

Goals

Ultimately, it comes down to what you enjoy most about the hobby and what you want to do. Balancing these goals with your available space, budget and physical abilities will yeild the perfect compromise. Do you enjoy scratchbuilding and detailing, or would you prefer ready-to-run models? Do you want a continuous run, lots of animated accessories, prototype-based operating plans, multi-person operating sessions, complicated switching challenges, big scenery, something portable, or a combination of any of the above?

Think about what you want from the hobby, look at what size works best for you, and get started. Oh, and don't worry...if your goals, space, budget or abilities change you can always change your mind later and start again!

Partial Source - http://modeltrains.about.com/od/modelrailroadtrains/f/What-Is-The-Best-Model-Train-Scale.htm

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