Model Tips for Beginners - Part 1

Previously we did a Blog on  Basic Tips For Model Building for beginners that takes you step by step through some basic steps on building a model kit.  

The following are some questions that some of you, our customers, have asked either through email, social media or here at our store.  If we haven't answered your question, please send us an email or come down and see us here at Chinook & Hobby West!

How do I get the parts off the runners? 
It's best to remove the parts from the trees or sprue by cutting them off. Do this by cutting the part off as close as possible to the surface of the part so there is no excess plastic on the part from the tree. Most modelers use a hobby knife or sprue cutter (which you can find at most hobby shops). We do not recommend twisting the parts off because this can cause breakage, especially with thin or fragile parts.

Why do a few parts in my kit have rough edges?
Plastic injection molded model kit parts will sometimes have a rough edge or "mold line" on the part as a result of the manufacturing process. These can be removed by sanding the edge off the part with a small file, emery board, or sandpaper. Do this prior to painting your parts for a more realistic and professional appearance. Use a light touch as styrene plastic is soft and will easily sand.

I am a first-time model maker and am having difficulty removing the decals from the page to apply to model. Do you have any suggestions for application?
Decals should be dipped in lukewarm water for only a moment and then set on a paper towel to let the water soak in and dissolve the adhesive that holds the decal on the paper. The decal will curl up, and then unroll after a short time. At this point the decals should be able to be moved around on the backing paper and slid into location on the model. Once in place they can be dabbed with the tip of a paper towel or tissue to soak up excessive water.

We also would like to add that using a decal setting solution afterwards will help the decal 'snuggle' onto your project for your best look.

What type of glue or cement should I use?
Generally, most any glue or cement that is suitable for use on plastic can be used on your Revell model kit. Tube glues, such as Testors and Ambroid are the most commonly found and have a gel-like consistency. These are also made in a non-toxic formula to reduce some of the odors.

Use these sparingly in order to avoid the glue oozing out from the parts being joined. When using tube type glues you may want to squeeze out a small amount onto a scrap piece of paper or cardboard and apply a small amount to the kit part using a toothpick to control how much glue you are applying. Many builders like to use a liquid cement such as Testors, Tenax, or Pro-Weld, among others. Liquid cements can be applied using a small paint brush and can give you a nice, clean glue joint. Dip the brush in thinner from time to time to clean.

Other glue types frequently used are five minute epoxy, which is best used when you need a really strong bond for major structural parts of the kit, or "CA" glue, which is also commonly called super glue. CA is short for cyanoacrylate. Keep in mind that you do NOT want to use CA or super glues with clear or transparent parts as it will fog up the part.

Remember to always want to use any glue or cement in a well-ventilated area and to keep some nail polish remover nearby in case you glue your fingers together.

I accidentally got a finger print of paint or glue on my windshield. How can I get it off without ruining it?
If you only have a little bit of glue or paint on your glass, you may be able to get it off just by rubbing with a soft cloth. If you have any more, you may have to use more drastic measures like using a very fine rubbing compound ,such as white toothpaste. You can also use a superfine polishing kit. If you wind up with a slight fog on the glass, you can usually eliminate it by using model wax, clear enamel or liquid acrylic floor wax. If the glue is embedded too deeply, your only choice is to replace the glass.

Pro-Weld Liquid Glue

Testors Clear Parts Cement

Plastruct Liquid Glue

CA Glue, Debonder and Accelerator by Speed

Testors Model Cement and Liquid Glue

Watch for Part 2 next week:

• Paint: Colors, Technique, and Troubleshooting
• Decals: Types & Application
• Customer Service/Replacement Parts

Thank you for checking out our Blog.  Please visit our Website, Facebook and Newsletters.

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Basic Slot Car Maintenance - Part 2

Make sure to check out Part 1 of our Basic Slot Car Maintenance to learn:

• Fixing track to a Baseboard
• Power drops and breaks
• Testing Lane Change sections

Welcome to the exciting hobby of Slot Cars.  At the beginning it is great fun, until everything starts to hesitate and slow down. That's when you need to look after your setup so you can continue with maximum enjoyment of your Slot Car experience.

You are here to learn abut how to maintain your Slot Car setup before it needs major maintenance (we hope we've caught you in time, lol)

Weather you have a small and simple setup or a 4+ lane for club racing, the proper cleaning routine is needed.

Cleaning

Scalextric track

Since the year 2000, Scalextric amended the track design to improve the rigidity of the track and the ease of assembly. It is now possible to simply push two track pieces together in order to connect them, no need for fiddly connectors.

Cleaning Scalextric track

Light cleaning of track surface for daily use: Use a damp cloth or very lightly oiled cloth. This removes light grime and dust from the track surface. Wipe surface dry after using a damp cloth. As matter of good practice, always do this before using the Scalextric layout as this will help ensure you get the best grip from the car tyres.

Older Scalextric track

Track produced before the year 2000 is known as Classic track. It can be identified by the round popper track connectors.

Cleaning Classic track

Light cleaning of track surface for daily use: Use a damp cloth or very lightly oiled cloth. This removes light grime and dust from the track surface. Wipe surface dry after using a damp cloth.

Track rails

Unless kept in perfect conditions, older track rails will acquire quite a dark tarnish to the pick-up rails and this will prevent the right amount of current getting through to the motor. To remove the tarnishing or oxidisation, try a Hornby Railways track rubber to see if some of the surface tarnish can be removed.

Corrosion and heavy tarnishing

Use a mild abrasive material to shine up the running surfaces of the pick-up rails, making sure that the male and female connections at the ends of the track sections are also bright and shiny. Be aware that sometimes no amount of cleaning of heavily corroded rails and connectors will return the track to a useable state and replacement of track in this condition is the only alternative.

Cleaning and Lubricating The Chassis

Scalextric cars do not require additional oiling when used, say, for racing for fun. However, if you wish to improve the performance of your car there are several things you can do.

Top Tip: Lubrication of moving parts.

Level: Beginner - use these instructions if you have basic hobby skills.

Tools required: Small philips screwdriver, small stiff brush, 3-in-1 oil.

1. Remove the chassis from the car body.
2. Use a small stiff brush to remove the dust and dirt from the interior of the chassis
3. Use tweezers or similar to remove debris entangled in the axles and wheels
4. Place one drop of light 3-in-1 oil to each of the axle bearings and to the motor shaft bearings
5. Wipe off any excess oil
6. Re-assemble the chassis to the car body
7. Test the car on track

Level: Expert - Only carry out these steps if you are an experienced hobbyist

Tools required: Small philips screwdriver, small stiff brush, tweezers, 3-in-1 oil.

1. Remove the chassis from the car body
2. Remove dust and dirt from the interior of the chassis
3. Remove impacted or loose debris at the axles, wheels, bearings, gears and, very importantly, between each tooth of the motor pinion gear and main axle gear wheel

Place one drop of light 3-in-1 oil to:

1. each of the axle bearings
2. the motor shaft bearings
3. guide blade shaft (remove guide blade screw)
4. thread of each chassis screw (during re-assembly)
5. Wipe off any excess oil
6. Re-assemble the chassis to the car body. Tighten the body screws fully (do not over-tighten) then back off the screw by one complete turn to leave the chassis slightly loose to the car body. This may not be appropriate for open wheel cars, but as a general rule this will improve performance. Test the car and adjust the screwn tightness accordingly.
7. Test the car on track

Guide Braid/Blade Replacement

What is the guide and braid?

The guide is normally a small 'keel' (but can be a pin as used in Micro Scalextric) which runs in the track slot and guides the car around the track layout.

The braid is fitted to the slot guide blade assembly. It allows electrical power to pass from the track rails, up through the braids and into the car to power the lights, motor and, if fitted, a digital chip, etc.

With regular use, the braid will eventually wear out and will need to be replaced. Regular maintenance and care can see a braid last for the life of the car.

To keep the braid in good repair:

• always clean them with a small stiff brush (an old toothpaste brush is ideal)
• ensure that the braids are flat against the guide and not angled down
• ensure that the braids are positioned so that they are in line with the track slot rails.

Replacing the braid

Since 1990, an easy-fit system has been used and most Scalextric cars have a very simple push-fit method of replacing the braid.

Replacing the guide blade:

Guide blades do not wear out and will only need replacing in the event of breakage. The easy-fit guide blade can be replaced from the exterior of the car without the need for tools. The recent C8329 round guide blade requires a screwdriver to gain access to the interior of the car to release the guide blade retaining screw.

We carry Scalextric 1:32 scale Slot Cars. We are expanding our selection for the slot car season of 2014-2015 (November to March).


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Basic Airbrush Maintenance and Cleaning- Q & A

Many different experience levels come and visit us here at Chinook & Hobby West to talk about Airbrushing. We also get many questions regarding Airbrushes through our social medias and by email.

We carry Paasche, Iwata and Badger currently and yes, we do promote these items. We also have general information to help all Airbrush users.

The following are some of your questions and answers we have researched for you.  If you still have questions, please email us at hobbywest@shaw.ca.



Q: Why should I use SuperLube?
A: When you’re using a substance to lubricate your airbrush needle (or trigger) you run the danger of some of that substance getting into the spray and onto your project (that’s why you only need a little bit). The question is what will happen when that greasy substance reacts with your paint. SuperLube doesn’t like to react with oil-based or water-based paints – that’s why we recommend it – we know what it will do. If you use an oil-based lube it might react with your acrylic paints (it’ll mix like oil and water).
Another suggestion is Woodland Scenic Light Gear Oil.  As with any Oil, please test your airbrush on a scrap paper or project just to ensure your oil doesn't interfere with your paint work.

Q: Why do I need to lubricate the needle?
A: The needle doesn’t really need the lube rather the needle in turn lubricates a little o-ring deep in the body of the brush that prevents blowback. It’s really rather small so it doesn’t need much lube and it only needs to be lubed every now and then.

Q: Are airbrushes hard to keep clean?
A: No, it’s quite a simple task, though it might be difficult at first. Develop a regular maintenance habit of rinsing the airbrush with the appropriate cleaning agent for the material being sprayed between color changes. Thoroughly clean your airbrush at the end of the workday. Check out the appropriate cleaning guide for your brush online or come down and see us to help you find a copy.

Q: How often should I thoroughly clean my airbrush?
A: It’s easy to say that you should clean your airbrush at the end of each workday; however, you should thoroughly clean the airbrush when the inevitable buildup of dried paint begins to interfere with normal operation. For some people this is once a week, for others, it’s once a day. It should be noted that regular and timely rinsing of wet paint with the appropriate cleaner will lengthen the amount of time between thorough cleanings. In short, rinsing more means cleaning less.

Q: How do I rinse my airbrush?
A: To rinse out the airbrush, simply flush it with the appropriate paint cleaning agent – Medea Airbrush Cleaner for water-based paints and paint thinner for oil-based paints. Never immerse or soak an entire airbrush. When using flammable cleaners never flush the airbrush near an open flame or lose electrical wiring and always flush the cleaner into an appropriate container to deal with these materials.

Q: How often should I rinse my airbrush?
A: You should rinse out the airbrush generally in-between color changes, before taking a break, and at the end of the day. Here’s why – wet materials clean up easier than dry materials. Rinse it while it’s wet and you won’t have to do a thorough cleaning as often when it’s dry. Rinsing between color changes is a maybe. If you’re blending colors and working from light to dark then chances are good that you won’t have to rinse. If you need a pure color then you will have to rinse out your airbrush.

Q: When I’m thoroughly cleaning out my airbrush why should I use a solvent?
A: Solvents quickly break up the molecular bonds paint forms when it dries. We recommend acetone or lacquer thinner as solvents, but stay away from paint thinner – paint thinner, in our experience, doesn’t seem to work well cleaning airbrushes. Do not soak your airbrush in a solvent. There are parts and greases in other areas of the airbrush that don’t take kindly to it. With that said, you should generally use only as much solvent as can be held in a cotton swab or in a pipe-cleaner. WARNING: DO NOT SPRAY SOLVENTS THROUGH THE AIRBRUSH. Bad idea, here’s why.

Q: What about Medea Airbrush Cleaner? Can I use it to clean out my airbrush instead of solvent?
A: There’s a saying-”the right tool for the right job”. Medea Airbrush Cleaner is great stuff and it works really well on wet paints and materials. Paint is a suspension of pigment in an adhesive substance. When the adhesive is wet you can wash it off with soapy water-when it is dry, you need something to dissolve the molecular bonds the adhesive creates. This is where solvents such as acetone or lacquer thinner come into play.

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Thank you for checking out our Blog.  Please visit our Website, Facebook and Newsletters.

Basic Slot Car Maintenance - Part 1

Welcome to the exciting hobby of Slot Cars.  At the beginning it is great fun, until everything starts to hesitate and slow down. That's when you need to look after your setup so you can continue with maximum enjoyment of your Slot Car experience.

You are here to learn abut how to maintain your Slot Car setup before it needs major maintenance (we hope we've caught you in time, lol)

Weather you have a small and simple setup or a 4+ lane for club racing, the proper cleaning routine is needed.

Fixing Track to a Baseboard

Ideally, it is best not to nail, screw or glue the track to a base board at all. The reason for this is that plastic and metal, the two ingredients of Scalextric track, expand and contract at different rates. So, on hot days the plastic will expand larger than the rail. Of course, the rail won't let the plastic expand evenly due to the rail gripping the plastic. This causes the track surface to warp.

When the track is laid loose the circuit can 'grow' and absorb any expansion due to heat. If the track is not allowed to move freely (ie nailed down) then any expansion will only lead to uneven surfaces.

If the layout is to lay flat, leave the track loose. Keep the layout in a dry and constant temperature room. This normally means that the loft, shed and garage are not good places.

Power Drops and Breaks

The most often asked question is 'My car has stopped on the track. What has broken?'

The most common (1 =most common) reasons that this might happen are:

1. The track piece that the car is resting on has no electrical power due to bad track connections.
2. The car motor has expired or their is a mechanical reason within the car that is stopping the motor from turning (e.g. tyre jammed against wheel arch).
3. A guide braid has come out.
4. The hand controller is not plugged in to the power base fully.
5. The electrical power switch is turned off.
6. The car has developed a fault.
7. The hand controller has broken.
8. A motor wire has broken.
9. The power base has broken.
10. The power base is not connected to the power supply.
11. The power supply lead is broken.
12. The power supply has broken.

Here's how to cure the most common problem of electrical power problems on the track - No 1 above.

When the following procedure has been completed you should be able to race cars at full speed on tracks of up to 200 feet or more without any practical electrical problems.

Power jumper cables can be used on 'analogue' or digital track circuits. Note, though, that a power jumper cable only hides a bad track connection and, ultimately, it is better to fix the track problem than add power jumper cables.

Question: There are power breaks or weak power sections on the Scalextric layout. How can this be repaired?

Answer:When a car stops on circuit this can indicate TWO breaks in electrical continuity since electricity travels in both directions around the track. If there was only one break then you would not notice it as electricity flows in both direction!

The way to correct this problem is to:

• Disconnect the track behind the power base.
• Then drive a car forward at a slow speed. When the car crosses from one piece of track to the next there should not be a drop in power/speed.
• If there is a drop or loss in power, then fix the track connection. Disconnect both track pieces (the track piece immediately before and after the fault). Turn them over on a hard surface. Ensure that the metal rail tabs at the ends of the rails (there are 8 of them on every track piece) are fully pressed and clamped down to the plastic. Use a stout screwdriver or similar to push them tight.
• Watch this video on how to do this Track tab maintenance.
• Reconnect the repaired track pieces and retest by placing the car back at the power base and again drive the car slowly forward until you meet the next reduced or lost power section.
• Continue the above repair process until you get to the last track piece before the power base.
• Reconnect the last track piece to the power base.
• Full power should now be restored.

Testing Lane Change Sections

In the event that a lane change track piece fails to operate follow this simple procedure:

• Disconnect the lane change track piece and check that the rail connections are all good. See other Top Tips feature regarding track connections and loss of power.
• Check that there are no obstructions in the slot preventing the flipper from physically moving. It should 'flip' freely.
• Ensure that the track piece hasn't been bent (stood on, for instance) which will also cause the flipper to jam.
• Reconnect the track piece and turn power on.
• Manually move the flipper in to the position which would cause the car to change lane. Manually push a car over the track lane change sensor (this is a round hole about one car length before the flipper). The flipper should flip back to the 'straight ahead' position.
• The lane change track piece should be usable if the above procedures have not identified any problems.

We carry Scalextric 1:32 scale Slot Cars. We are expanding our selection for the slot car season of 2014-2015 (November to March).


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Basic Airbrush - Q & A

Many different experience levels come and visit us here at Chinook & Hobby West to talk about Airbrushing. We also get many questions regarding Airbrushes through our social medias and by email.

We carry Paasche, Iwata and Badger currently and yes, we do promote these items. We also have general information to help all Airbrush users.

The following are some of your questions and answers we have researched for you.  If you still have questions, please email us at hobbywest@shaw.ca.

Airbrush Classes for Beginner to Expert
Email us for Class list

Q: What is an airbrush? A: An airbrush is a small, air-operated tool that sprays fluid (paint, ink, dye, stain, glaze, etc.). It resembles, and is held like, a pen. It applies paint through a process known as atomization. Q: What's atomization? A: An airbrush takes a fluid and turns it into a directed airborne mist. You can think of it as a sophisticated perfume atomizer or as a controllable spray paint can. Q: How does an airbrush work? A: The airbrush must be attached to an air source to spray. Airbrushes have two systems that must work together to function properly. The air system provides energy for the atomization of the fluid. The fluid system delivers the paint to the tip of the airbrush to be atomized and sprayed onto a surface. Q: What type of airbrush is best for me? A: This depends on your desired application. Most airbrush users today use single- or dual-action, internal mix airbrushes because they offer the most control and the finest of sprays. However, single-action, external mix airbrushes are very popular for hobby and craft applications, the spraying of ceramic glazes or high viscosity materials, or where cost is a factor. (They are generally less expensive.)

Q: What is the difference between internal-mix and external-mix? A: In an internal-mix airbrush, the air and paint mix inside the paint tip. This produces a thorough atomization or mixing, which results in a very soft, fine spray pattern. In an external-mix airbrush, the air and paint mix outside the tip, producing a coarse spray pattern. Q: Why are there different size tips for the airbrush? A: Nozzle sizes are differentiated by tenths and sometimes hundredths of millimeters. The different sizes allow for finer or coarser paint (how finely the paint pigment is ground up) while trading off between finer and coarser lines and spray patterns. The line sizes are relative within the Iwata product line. A practiced hand and deft touch can accomplish some amazing lines and effects with a .5mm nozzle on the Eclipse or Revolution series airbrushes. Q: What types of surfaces can be worked on? A: All surfaces can be airbrushed, paper, canvas, plastic, metal, glass, wood, leather, skin, etc. The key is to insure the proper preparation of the surface prior to spraying and its compatibility with the sprayed material. Q: What kinds of paint can I use with the airbrush? A: All paints, oils, acrylics, watercolors, automotive paints, enamels, alkyds, etc., are sprayable as long as they are thinned to a consistency, like light cream, that enables them to flow easily through the airbrush. However, if you're just learning how to paint with an airbrush consider buying airbrush ready paints then you can focus on improving your technique rather than worrying about whether or not your paint is going to clog the airbrush. We have two great Airbrush DVDs that can help you with your technique.  We also have informative books and brochures and if we do not have your replacement parts in stock, we can order them. Source Thank you for checking out our Blog.  Please visit our Website, Facebook and Newsletters.

Are You Interested in Slot Cars as a Hobby?

We currently carry Scalextric Slot Cars in 1:32 scale.  We do have plans to carry more in the future during Slot Car Season (November to March).

This article is to help the beginners in this fun hobby, learn more to increase their enjoyment of Slot Cars. Let us know if you have any questions regarding Slot Cars. valhobbywest@shaw.ca
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Standard vs Digital

What is the difference between standard Scalextric and Scalextric Digital from a racing experience point of view?

Scalextric Digital racing more about racing as a whole - e.g. you have to get to the finish line despite the following randoms thrown in to the mix: get past other cars on the same lane as you, take pit stops, refuel, take penalty 10sec 'stop-and-go' if you've transgressed, other cars will be in the way and stuff happens that ruins your strategy and you have to think your way out.

Standard Scalextric racing is more about car preparation and driving technique - simple. However, these two skills are also as important in Digital racing.

The key difference, in a word, is Interaction. It is about what happens between you and the other teams/cars/drivers. Comparatively, Digital gets 10/10 for Interaction (and I don't mean crashing in to each other - that would be sorted with a 10 second Pit Lane Stop&Go penalty for such bad driving!) whereas standard Scalextric (1/10 for interaction) is more of a time trial or sprint. Some standard Scalextric clubs have more than two lanes so that more people, at the start of the race, can leave the grid at the same time - but from there on the drivers are on their own until they complete the number of laps or race time.

Scalextric Digital racing offers the most complete racing experience.

Getting Started

Guide lines

• There is no age barrier.
• There are no hard and fast rules about what cars race together, what shape circuits should be and what race rules should be used.
• Most owners make up their own rules, design their own circuits and choose which cars to use.
• We encourage fans to be as creative as possible.

Buying the first Scalextric set

• The best way to get up and running is to buy a set.
• This gives all the equipment you need to race right out of the box.
• Use the 'Choose a Set' feature on the Home Page.

Flexibility and Compatibility

• Increase your car stable by buying individual cars
• Grow the layout by purchasing separate track pieces.
• Scalextric layouts do NOT have to be laid out as per the suggested circuit on the box lid.
• Be creative, design different circuits!
• Download the FREE Track Designer programme and design a layout. The software gives an inventory of the parts required.
• Most Scalextric cars can be used on any track layout without any problems.
• Track from  previous Scalextric sets can be used with current Scalextric layouts.

Who races Scalextric?

• Our Scalextric Enthusiasts Club shows we have members from around 7 years old to +70 years old, of both sexes!
• There are Scalextric clubs around the world.
• Most Scalextric owners race at home with friends and family.
• Organised racing takes place in Scalextric clubs around the world.
• Our own Scalextric roadshows and exhibitions also provide organised racing.
• There are national and international racing championships held annually.
• How involved you want to get is entirely up to you!
• Scalextric is a pastime, a hobby and a sport.

Access to Scalextric Track Designer

Scalextric Track Designer is the ultimate track building tool! This excellent 3D software includes the full Scalextric track inventory and comes complete with a built-in room designer. It offers Scalextric fans the chance to plan workable tracks, including multi-lane layouts, before getting down to actually building them!

Budding track designers can create the ultimate racing challenge by incorporating elevations and gradients, pit lanes, barriers and other exciting extras. Fully backward compatible with all classic track pieces, the designer is suited to both analogue and digital Scalextric formats.

Once created the designs can be saved, printed or even sent directly to our online shop were the extras you need are added automatically to your shopping basket, making it even easier to purchase the parts you need to build your epic track. Scalextric Track Designer installs in English, French, Spanish or German.

You can download the software FREE here: Download Scalextric Track Designer now!

You can also download the bumper pack of extra pre-made layouts completely free!

Some Neat Features of Scalextric Starter Sets

Accelerate into the new world of 1:32 scale slot racing.  Available in three alternative ready-to-race sets, Scalextric Start provides everything for the rookie racer:

• 1:32 scale slot racing action
• Easy-to-connect/disconnect track
• Multiple circuit options
• Large track pieces for speedy set up
• Skill level control hand throttles
• Super tough cars

Add to your slot car collection!

Race any Scalextric car on your new Scalextric Start circuit.

Expand your Scalextric Start circuit!

Option 1: Increase the track length of your Start circuit by over one metre, simply by adding C8527 Scalextric Start Straight Track Extension Pack.

Option 2: Alternatively, incorporate the C8525 Scalextric Start Converter Track Packand add any track piece from the full Scalextric range to enhance your new Scalextric Start set.

Make sure to check out our next blog post on Basic Slot Car Maintenance. 

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